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Quinster

Monster Beetle Steering

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1 hour ago, Quinster said:

Alberto Attaboy ? :)  Muchas Gracias.

¡¡Gracias mi amigo!!  Es el nombre que acaba de golpearme. 😉

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On 8/7/2020 at 8:04 PM, Lee76 said:

Do you have a pic of this set up? I’d love to see how it works.

I bought a couple of the Kimbrough servo savers guys.  Do they take a different size of ball connnector?  The one I have is pretty big compared to the size of the whole.  No jokes ;)  stretching it’s looks like it will stress the plastic.  Cheers.

686D8213-4540-4A0E-B12F-2FEA5DC58EB6.jpeg

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Kim intends for you to drill or team out the holes as you need. Buy a needle file.

Terry

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2 minutes ago, Quinster said:
On 8/7/2020 at 8:04 PM, Lee76 said:

 

I bought a couple of the Kimbrough servo savers guys.  Do they take a different size of ball connnector?  The one I have is pretty big compared to the size of the whole.  No jokes ;)  stretching it’s looks like it will stress the plastic.  Cheers.

Sorry, you tagged the wrong person, I’ve not built one. There are definitely more than one size ball connector though.  I wouldn’t want to suggest opening up the holes until someone else who knows what’s best chimes in.

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Well, if opening the hole is the done thing, my approach would be to use a decent wood drill and open the hole ever so slightly under size so the ball joint self taps in a little before you put the lock nut on. This retains as much of the wall section as possible. I’d love to say I’d do this with my pillar drill and make a proper centring fixture, or the needle vice and do it slowly by hand.. but we all know the ‘best way’ is with an overpowered drill driver free hand on the coffee table so you get told off by the wife.

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15 minutes ago, Lee76 said:

Sorry, you tagged the wrong person, I’ve not built one. There are definitely more than one size ball connector though.  I wouldn’t want to suggest opening up the holes until someone else who knows what’s best chimes in.

Yeah sorry about that - I was too quick on the trigger.  

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7 minutes ago, Lee76 said:

Well, if opening the hole is the done thing, my approach would be to use a decent wood drill and open the hole ever so slightly under size so the ball joint self taps in a little before you put the lock nut on. This retains as much of the wall section as possible. I’d love to say I’d do this with my pillar drill and make a proper centring fixture, or the needle vice and do it slowly by hand.. but we all know the ‘best way’ is with an overpowered drill driver free hand on the coffee table so you get told off by the wife.

This made me laugh.  Good one.  I have a needle file I’ll give that a bash.

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It’s on but I think I’ve stressed the plastic.  Cheers for the help.

7DEFD1E8-B470-48BF-9140-494BAE0F7A39.jpeg

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No worries.... It's VERY strong Nylon!! 👍👍  The Holes really needed to be predrilled though.  I don't think you've hurt it. 😉

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On 8/22/2020 at 9:08 PM, Jonathon Gillham said:

If that fails, I bought this which fits onto the kit servo saver. So far so good.

https://www.rcmart.com/gpm-racing-gpm-aluminum-3mm-thread-servo-saver-blue-for-tamiya-dt03-cc01-m1025-hummer-wild-willy-2-tt02b-dt3023-3mm-b-00062937

I evem have the same servo

Always a good option....  Certainly strong and a VAST improvement over the stock FLOPPY Servo Saver. 😉

The Kimborough is designed to take a LOT more than just some squashed in Ball Studs!! It's doing what it's supposed to do - flex. 

As LOOSE as EVERY other Servo Saver is, Kimborough has been the ONLY one I've used for 30 years. 

[WHEN I even use a Servo Saver!!]😳  That's RIGHT! A big Vehicle, with big Tyres that stick out in the path of Curbs, Cars, Appliances.... Aunt Gertrude(!!!!) STILL needs Servo Savers... 

BUT..... Nearly EVERY On-Road, Drift, even Rally - with its Wheels enclosed within the Body...  NO LONGER needs Servo Savers at ALL!!  WHY, because. Because the Body provides ample protection from bits Shearing off in a collision. 

More importantly - when Servo Savers were introduced.... Servos BARELY had ONE KG of Turning Force, and had very thin, very weak Plastic Gears!! 😖  If you LOOKED at them too long, the Gears would STRIP, break, or if that hadn't happened yet, the Motor would BURN out!! 

NOT ANY MORE!!! 😁👍👍  Most Servos worth buying, put out at least 9kg of Torque, average of 13kg, and some even FIT 20kg Servos in their Cars. In that application, the Servo will usually outlast the rest of the Car!!

(SOME imbeciles, like Me for lack of better choice, fitted a 25kg Servo!!!)😲😳😊

Not completely without merit. It's in my M05, and in any FWD Car, the Steering also has to fight back against the Torque of the Front Driving Wheels. You've likely got Power Steering in your FWD Car, and don't feel those countersteering forces. But it's there, even in RC. 

On top of that, any GOOD modern Servo has METAL Gears!! 😉  You literally NO LONGER need Steering Servo Savers with these Servos!!! 😁  Really. You don't.  I don't have a Servo Saver in my 12.4lb Wraith or my 8lb SCX10 II...   I CERTAINLY don't have any Servo Savers in my 2lb On-Road Cars. 

And if I can EVER get a 1/14th Scale Big Hauler Tractor - I definitely wouldn't use one!!!!  ONE very simple reason for all of them. SLOP!!! 80% of Steering SLOP comes from Servo Savers! Again, they're no longer needed. 👊

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Can you show us a photo of a set up that doesn’t use a servo saver? I can’t picture how it works without a servo saver.  Totally flummoxed so I am :)

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20 minutes ago, Quinster said:

Can you show us a photo of a set up that doesn’t use a servo saver? I can’t picture how it works without a servo saver.  Totally flummoxed so I am :)

It is just a direct servo horn. The servo saver has springs in it which protect the servo from shocks back through the steering system if the wheels hit something solid. New servos with ketal gears are fine like this, older servos had plastic gears and need the protection of a servo saver

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14 hours ago, Quinster said:

Can you show us a photo of a set up that doesn’t use a servo saver? I can’t picture how it works without a servo saver.  Totally flummoxed so I am :)

It's simpler than it sounds!! 

IMG_20200811_190303.thumb.jpg.2c8d0b0377b2925c0803433542e85139.jpg

Note the Servo on my M05. It's just got a plain Servo Arm on it. The advantage is - ZERO PLAY!! Something to actually have to get USED to in a lower spec Tamiya!! 😜

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Thanks for that.  I’d need to copy someone who had a similar car to be in with a fighting chance. Cheers!

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On 8/22/2020 at 10:19 AM, Lee76 said:

but we all know the ‘best way’ is with an overpowered drill driver free hand on the coffee table so you get told off by the wife.

Yes mate !! - if the wife can go ott , then so can I

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Thanks for that.  I’d need to copy someone who had a similar car to be in with a fighting chance. Cheers!

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Does anyone know what makes this pop out? I reversed fast and it just came out.  I took it apart and rebuilt it - tested it and it popped straight out again.  Sorry, quite new to this stuff.

BA7A2136-7B34-4690-B382-5F883223D3F7.jpeg

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17 minutes ago, Quinster said:

Does anyone know what makes this pop out? I reversed fast and it just came out.  I took it apart and rebuilt it - tested it and it popped straight out again.  Sorry, quite new to this stuff.

BA7A2136-7B34-4690-B382-5F883223D3F7.jpeg

It APPEARS that by design, the Dogbone might be just a bit too short.  If you haven't fit an O-Ring in each Drive Cup yet, I would try that. 

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It did look too short.  There is an o ring in there.  I’m not sure if it’s one or two though.  I will pop another in and see what happens.  Thanks so much for your help.  Cheers, Mark

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