Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
rwordenjr

Zahhak GOOL RC Motor help + sound

Recommended Posts

Finally received GoolRc motor after about 2 months. Now I’ve got an issue, the motor shaft is longer than a standard tamiya one meaning the shaft sticks out way too far. What are my options ? 

 

image.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the gear cover definitely not clear it? I know I've had some near misses with my DT03 but it's just about cleared it.

If you didn't mind the surgery, you could always just lop some of the shaft off with a dremel or hacksaw.

Or maybe put a metal motor plate between the motor and mount?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just tried the cover and it works ! Seemed to clear okay. Didn’t think it would but the covers still spins freely before being screwed in. Now the ball diff.... who knows if it’s too tight or too loose. We’ll see soon enough lol 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it didn't clear the cover, one suggestion would be to put a thin metal spacer between the motor and the motor mounting plate so the motor shaft doesn't stick out the other side as far.  Something like a piece of 2mm thick aluminum plate cut and drilled appropriately, though not everyone has the material or tools to make such a thing.  Edit:  Actually I just did an eBay search for "motor spacer" inside Radio Control and Control Line and found a few choices of exactly that:  a round piece of aluminum with holes designed to space the motor out from the mounting plate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

who knows if it’s too tight or too loose

Here's how to find out! 

Put the car on your lap, facing away from you. Have some dark jeans on. Don't do this with your best chinos on ;)

With your left hand hold the spur gear still. Push the left hand drive wheel down so that it grips on your jeans and cannot turn.

Now grab the right hand drive wheel. Try to turn it. Slowly build up force. If it's easy to turn it, or it breaks away and turns after applying only moderate to moderate/strong force, the diff is too loose. If you cannot turn it all because you are putting so much force through it the car is bending around or you are worried you will break something, the diff is probably too tight, but you won't melt it.

Good luck! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Going by the photo you may want to move the pinion out slightly,to centre on the spur.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s pretty common with many motors to need to trim the shaft for DT03 and DT02 so it doesn’t surprise me you’ve come up against that with the zahak.
 

many 550 motors come with shafts you need to lop off about 4-5mm. 
 

so don’t feel bad if you have to trim a bit off the shaft I’ve done it many times.
 

This is why we have a dremel on hand lol
 

Juls

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, rwordenjr said:

What does a over tightened ball diff sound like ? 

Loose ones squeal, tight ones don't make any unusual noises that I am aware of. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Loose ones squeal, tight ones don't make any unusual noises that I am aware of. 

Oh okay, thanks Turnip !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

What does a over tightened ball diff sound like ?

More of a kind of high pitch barking noise. You'll know it when you hear it if you put the power down from a standing start on a high traction surface like tarmac. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/6/2020 at 1:27 AM, Howards said:

Here's how to find out! 

Put the car on your lap, facing away from you. Have some dark jeans on. Don't do this with your best chinos on ;)

With your left hand hold the spur gear still. Push the left hand drive wheel down so that it grips on your jeans and cannot turn.

Now grab the right hand drive wheel. Try to turn it. Slowly build up force. If it's easy to turn it, or it breaks away and turns after applying only moderate to moderate/strong force, the diff is too loose. If you cannot turn it all because you are putting so much force through it the car is bending around or you are worried you will break something, the diff is probably too tight, but you won't melt it.

Good luck! 

While holding one wheel and spinning the other, the wheel is just short of a full turn. Good? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, rwordenjr said:

While holding one wheel and spinning the other, the wheel is just short of a full turn. Good? 

I’d go a little tighter if all you are doing here is holding one wheel still. 
 

the trick is to try it with both the spur gear and a wheel held still. It should be very hard to turn the other wheel. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This normal ? When hardly on throttle, it’s skips a bit. You have to go more on throttle to make it move smooth. It’s been like that whether diff was loose or tight 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is pretty typical behaviour for a GoolRC sensorless system. Not a diff issue at all. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

That is pretty typical behaviour for a GoolRC sensorless system. Not a diff issue at all. 

Oh okay. Thanks ! Why you think that is ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, rwordenjr said:

Oh okay. Thanks ! Why you think that is ? 

I have installed several GoolRC sensorless systems in cars belonging to friends and colleagues, and they all do that at very low throttle.

I believe it is because of how the ESC is programmed to get the motor started. Lacking sensors, it has to run a start-up process in which it energises the stator coils in sequence until they catch the rotor and set it spinning. Once spinning, it generates back EMF that can be interpreted by the ESC. However at very low throttle it can't spin up the rotor, doesn't receive any back EMF, so repeats the start-up process over and over until you give it enough beans to get moving. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/6/2020 at 4:52 AM, TurnipJF said:

Sounds normal to me!

To follow up on this, you have to full throttle then after about 3-4 seconds, the car actually moves. That’s normal? In the video below, I’m on the throttle fully then it finally moves after a bit 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...