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jlcox7

Lexan Paint -brush on question

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Old Tamiya builder here - The first Hornet I got back in 1986 , I painted with the old Tamiya brushed on Lexan paint - and I know they discontinued it - 

I stumbled on the Proline Paints on Amazon for polycarb bodies, that comes in a liquid for your airbrush machines - 

Has anyone tried brushing this on inside a tamiya body? I think it would make it tons easier for the roll bar portions and such instead of masking the whole body for 2 little spots - 

Please comment if you have any experience with any brushable solutions outside of very old leftover bottles of the Tamiya paint. thanks!

prlolinepaints.jpeg

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Ready to spray might be too thin to use with a brush.

I've done several polycarbonate bodies in the past with the Tamiya brush on PC paint and it is quite thick and dries quite quickly.

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I haven't used the Proline brand but Parma's Faskolor is absolutely fantastic and bang-for-the-buck. I've had great results with it using both, brush and airbrush. I would definitely recommend the brand.

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, jlcox7 said:

Has anyone tried brushing this on inside a tamiya body?

You can brush it on, yes. Takes a while to cure though and is prone to flaking if you don't back it well. 

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I’ve had good result recently just using Tamiya acrylics for small areas like roll bars. They don’t really get a lot of movement, so little risk of cracking, and the paint adheres very well.

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I use the Proline stuff through the airbrush but I will also do small corrections with a brush.  The problem is it requires several thin coats to get an opaque layer by brush, and painting neat straight lines for the roll cage with multiple coats like this is more time consuming than masking the area off. 

I did my first Frog body roll bars with a rattle can and it was so tight to get the spray in I wasted most of a tin trying to get good coverage.  It's way more economical using the airbrush, which is easier to get in to the confined space. 

It might be worth trying masking it off the area then using a tiny piece of sponge held with some tweezers to gently dab on multiple thin layers of paint.  You could use either Proline, or the rattle can stuff for this (spray some into the lid). 

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7 hours ago, Howards said:

You can brush it on, yes. Takes a while to cure though and is prone to flaking if you don't back it well. 

Hi Howards, can you state your backing technique? I painted a shell with Proline colors recently, and I´m still fighting myself, if I should back up or not.

Do you have experience with some of your shells?

Kind regards,

Matthias

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2 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

Hi Howards, can you state your backing technique? I painted a shell with Proline colors recently, and I´m still fighting myself, if I should back up or not.

Do you have experience with some of your shells?

Back the entire shell with a PS spray - either white, black or Silver depending on the effect you want and your colour scheme. PS spray really is amazing - it sets like stone. Bendy stone. Once on, it's immune. 

I did one shell where I didn't back it, and the paint was damaged easily. The rest I backed with PS and they were fine. 

Because Proline is usually applied with an airbrush in reasonably small quantities it is prone to dry-spray and it's very hard to get a wet coat whilst retaining the detail you need and preventing runs. Backing it with PS seems to solve this without the risk of runs or wrecking the detail.

 

This one is backed in light silver which was also the last colour to be applied in the design. spacer.png

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19 minutes ago, Howards said:

Back the entire shell with a PS spray - either white, black or Silver depending on the effect you want and your colour scheme. PS spray really is amazing - it sets like stone. Bendy stone. Once on, it's immune. 

I did one shell where I didn't back it, and the paint was damaged easily. The rest I backed with PS and they were fine. 

Because Proline is usually applied with an airbrush in reasonably small quantities it is prone to dry-spray and it's very hard to get a wet coat whilst retaining the detail you need and preventing runs. Backing it with PS seems to solve this without the risk of runs or wrecking the detail.

 

This one is backed in light silver which was also the last colour to be applied in the design. spacer.png

Great info, Thanks Howards! I´m just afraid of some of my friends tales, that they ruined a perfect airbrush shell with the last coat of PS spray, most take white.

For sure I guess, key is to make the first coats very light, that the PS solvent dries quickly up, before solving the waterbased Proline colors...

But I absolutely get your point on the "dried" color, before curing on the shell. I have the suspect, that I airbrushed too dry or with too much care, so that my coats came otu more "brittle" than my friends ones. But it´s a small corridor, before the paint runs on the shell.:lol:

Nevertheless it happened on my last coat of white for the last details, but actually the paint dried up well in the end and seems to stick without seeing the more droplike finish from the outside. That gives me some hope, that you could actually also brush the proline colors on, to come back to the question...

BR,

Matthias

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3 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

For sure I guess, key is to make the first coats very light, that the PS solvent dries quickly up, before solving the waterbased Proline colors...

I haven’t had this issue. But yes I do a couple of dusting coats then a wet coat. 

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