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Emp40cal1911

My attempt to build a CC-01 "crawler" in looks only :) and on a "budget"

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20 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

Yes the HR kit is the best for it. Just use longer screws (8mm) for both shaft ends.

Question? What if i run an M3 rod to length? What in your opinion would hinder proper rotation? 

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11 minutes ago, Emp40cal1911 said:

Question? What if i run an M3 rod to length? What in your opinion would hinder proper rotation? 

As long as nothing is binding any Bearings, using a M3 Stud shouldn't make any difference.  If you go that route, use a little thick CA Cement directly before installing the Studs. That will keep them from coming out, and wearing out the plastic threads every time you need to take it apart. 😉

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How is yours going??😊

I'm going to share a couple of pictures of my CC-01 Landfreeder...1355693705_CC-0104.thumb.jpg.b29b885fb872a88a0351833c852d98b5.jpg

..... OR, how to spend WAY TOO MUCH on a paint job!!! 😲1784293157_CC-0101.thumb.jpg.98377d67b72c79c154f3efed24987d2d.jpg

It is Color Changing Paint. Even pretty successful... Eventually I'm going to make her more Off-Road capable. GEARING is the biggest issue. It's TOO fast! No low speed Torque or control.1631214933_CC-0105.thumb.jpg.d095246aa7c6693a590d989795169c5e.jpg

BTW, the Interior and Driver were borrowed from my Holiday Buggy. Fits WELL! 

Those are 98mm Tires... Probably at the edge of the biggest you'd ever want to go on a CC-01.

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That’s a sweet looking Landfreeder Carmine even added a driver and cool looking paint job. I have had less time than expected but i did manage to fit the body. I had to change plans with just using magnets. In the rear, thanks to the chassis extension i was able to use pajero parts (i think) that came with the Landfreeder kit in order to attach the body to the chassis after fabricating an aluminum bracket and using rubber bushings in order to bring the bracket home onto the attachment points. At the front i kept the magnet but not glued to the top of the body as i noticed it would not sit flush with the hood so instead...again i made another bracket attached to the bottom part of the hood with adjustable extensions. Note that these magnets are INSANELY strong. I bought 4 as a set and these things are too strong if used by themselves...So by just using the attachments making contact on to the magnet and the screws as a guide for horizontal alignment it seems to work perfect. The first pick is the truck suspended in the air. Then i pre drilled holes on the roof for a rack with lights and added a bottom center skid plate.  Hopefully i will start working on painting the body this weekend. 

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On 8/12/2020 at 7:00 AM, Emp40cal1911 said:

Thanks. Let me know how modifying the upper arms work out. I will take a look at it over the weekend. Thanks again Man! 

I tried using the GPM and  Xtraspeed upper arms but both are limited in travel especially that I have modified my suspension with 100mm shocks. So I went back on using the stock plastic which is actually fine.

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You can check out my build here. I'd glad to share some inexpensive ideas and modifications.

 

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WOW!! BOTH of those CC-01s are amazing!! 👏👏👏👏 You Guys did a lot more underneath than I did. 

@Emp40cal1911 I really like the way that Cherokee Body fits. I like the idea of stretching it to 275mm, and I'll likely do that to mine.... Unless I can get a second CC-01! 😉

I've used Rare Earth Magnets for quite a while. I'm upset about drilling the Landfreeder Body for Posts. 😖  When I have money again, I may do a second Body, just like it, but with Magnets.  My current Build on here, the M05 Honda CRX, the stinking Body CAME pre-drilled!!! 😠😞  So I blacked out the Hood, to disguise the front Clips, and made a custom rear Mount with Magnets. The Rear Posts went THROUGH the Back Window!! That was more than I could live with.

Like @Nicadraus said, the stock Plastic Upper Arms give the most Droop. I'm still experimenting with the Aluminum Arms.... Too much clearancing causes the balls to pop out easily. Besides, you should always keep at least one "sacrificial" Plastic Suspension part, to help save the Aluminum, in case of hard impact. 😉

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On 8/9/2020 at 3:05 AM, Emp40cal1911 said:

Unfortunately for me the HR shock mounts were made left & right and the engineers at Tamiya made the mount the same on both sides. :angry:. Hot Racing failed on this for sure

 

Most of the aftermarket mounts are designed one forward, one back. On a 1:1 vehicle many live axle 4wd’s will mount the rear shocks one side in front leaning forward and one behind leaning back. 
 

thus many of the hopup mounts give u the option to have forward and back leaning shocks so the rates stay similar left to right. So the parts you got, that’s how they are probably ment to be. 
 

even though the Tamiya mounts are made identical the manual clearly shows mounting one forward and one back. Of course unless your mounts are somehow made to sit in equal spots regardless of mounting position?

My gpm mounts allow me to have quite a big difference in mounting angle. 

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1 hour ago, Juls1 said:

Most of the aftermarket mounts are designed one forward, one back. On a 1:1 vehicle many live axle 4wd’s will mount the rear shocks one side in front leaning forward and one behind leaning back......

He's absolutely correct. Nowhere near as critical in a RC, this setup on 1:1 4X4s and even many 4X2s, HELPS prevent Axle Windup - or "Wheel Hop". Of course when the Shocks are worn out, this feature is USELESS. Not that it's very effective in the first place....

You of course can do that for Scale appearance, but Shocks on the same side, leaning outward at least 20 degrees, gives the plushest, most effective Suspensions - especially on very light RCs. i.e. CC-01!! 

My 12lb. Axial Wraith, with WIDE Axles and 140mm Tires, feels as stable and planted as a real Truck, with over 55mm of Shock Travel - with Springs SOFTER than Tamiya's softest Spring!! By a pretty good margin! 😲 

In the 6 years I've had my CC-01 Landfreeder, it's been an elusive goal to match that feel. 

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On 8/17/2020 at 10:44 PM, Nicadraus said:

I tried using the GPM and  Xtraspeed upper arms but both are limited in travel especially that I have modified my suspension with 100mm shocks. So I went back on using the stock plastic which is actually fine.

S2G4tgvh.jpg

umrcby9h.jpg

You can check out my build here. I'd glad to share some inexpensive ideas and modifications.

 

Outstanding!!!!. Thanks for the info and showing your build. I see what you did at the front end. 

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On 8/18/2020 at 8:53 AM, Juls1 said:

Most of the aftermarket mounts are designed one forward, one back. On a 1:1 vehicle many live axle 4wd’s will mount the rear shocks one side in front leaning forward and one behind leaning back. 
 

thus many of the hopup mounts give u the option to have forward and back leaning shocks so the rates stay similar left to right. So the parts you got, that’s how they are probably ment to be. 
 

even though the Tamiya mounts are made identical the manual clearly shows mounting one forward and one back. Of course unless your mounts are somehow made to sit in equal spots regardless of mounting position?

My gpm mounts allow me to have quite a big difference in mounting angle. 

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I see. I re ordered the mounts and used the same side on both ends. Now i have an extra pair of opposite ends that match. In the pic (left) are the originals ones from Tamiya on the right are the opposite ends from 2 sets of HR upper mounts. On my build since i was extending the chassis i was concerned of one shock mount off by about 3/16. 

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I began working on the body. I am familiar with painting and finishing as i have done models before and some rc bodies. So this post is just an update. Also...... 

All your input has been nothing but SUPERB! and i am REALLY grateful. Thank you ALL. Please keep it coming. I am really enjoying the Forum. Thanks all. 



 

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This IS a great place isn't it!?  That's nothing more than a big Model... Unless you've built 1/10th Scale Models. I've only done one. Great, detailed build, but I was actually disappointed because it didn't RUN! 😖 

That was my big attraction to RC Scalers. I get to EAT my Cake! 😜  I'm glad you're starting the Body. Can't wait!

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Update....Work in progress. This will take a little time. The Colors will be a Military spec Khaki mixed with flat black. The body work has taken some time even using glazing putty. It will all come together eventually. 

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Getting there. Slowly but surely. Body is done. Will be putting together soon. Many details will follow i will update as soon as i can. 

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That's looking GREAT!! 👍👍 Take your time, do it RIGHT. We'll be here when you're ready!! 😊

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Here is where i am at so far. I still have many exterior small details to add and have to complete the lightening, electronics inside and add the interior this body came with. I did have a full working winch for this project but it would have taken some more modification in the front so i scrapped the idea and will use the winch on my F-350 down the road anyway. Interestingly enough this chassis was easy to work with this body...almost as if Injora expected this. With that said the instructions were extremely poor and modification + common sense is a MUST.  I will update more as i go along. 
 

P.S.

The whole “BUDGET” idea flew out the window long ago. 

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That looks GREAT!! 👌👏👏👏👏🍻🍻  You've really done a brilliant job so far.

Injora DID plan it that way! 😉 they originally designed the Body, and a couple of others - IRONICALLY enough copied by other Korean/Chinese RC Companies!! But the Chassis and Body ARE a great match for each other.

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8 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

That looks GREAT!! 👌👏👏👏👏🍻🍻  You've really done a brilliant job so far.

Injora DID plan it that way! 😉 they originally designed the Body, and a couple of others - IRONICALLY enough copied by other Korean/Chinese RC Companies!! But the Chassis and Body ARE a great match for each other.

I tell you this Carmine....i prefer a Tamiya body to work with any given day. This was just an experiment for me. I have enjoyed it. She will never ever crawl much but she will look great as a shelf queen and a something i can pat my own back for. I will update more as i go along. 

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That looks fab! well done. I love budget crawler projects where there is a bit of 'out of the box' thinking and a fair bit of ingenuity.

 

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6 minutes ago, Emp40cal1911 said:

Also Carmine....any ideas for wheel wells for a CC-01  As you can see the gap is considerable. 

You can definitely Pat yourself on the back for that one!! 

Wheelwells will be TRICKY for that application... But I can obviously see why you'd want to. How hard do you want to make it for yourself!?? 😜😲  you WILL have to cut away the CC-01 Wheelwells for anything to work..... 

The only option I can see (or am capable of doing) is Scratchbuilding them out of Styrene Sheet.  OR, if you, or someone you know, had any CAD abilities (I DON'T), make or have made custom 3D Printed Wheelwells. 

As far as I know, nobody makes them commercially. 😞  Wish I had a better answer.

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On 8/8/2020 at 5:01 PM, Carmine A said:

The Hopup piece I mentioned, looks just like the Tamiya plastic Bellcrank, but it's all Aluminium, and is VERY strong!! I will keep trying to find those.

Hi Carmine, is the bell crank you mention a tamiya part? or from someone else? do you have a part number? thanks!

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9 minutes ago, foz75 said:

Hi Carmine, is the bell crank you mention a tamiya part? or from someone else? do you have a part number? thanks!

Its made by Yeah Racing... But I'm sorry I don't have a Part #.... 😞  However it's a common Listing and a popular Upgrade!! 

GETTING one during Corona-HYSTERIA is a bit of a challenge.

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