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Nicadraus

Tamiya FF Club

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1 hour ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Could you have not advised that about 24 hours ago? Just checked out on some small parts from RCJaz and I could have thrown them in my basket!!

They have just emailed me to let me know one of the items I ordered was out of stock, so would I like store credit...:ph34r:

The shaft just came in so I tested it right away. Sorry... :lol:

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On 8/26/2020 at 8:27 AM, Nicadraus said:

Congrats!

Enjoy and don't hesitate to ask questions. We'd be glad to help//guide you.

Thank you, much appreciated. 

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is it just me, or is the aluminium spur gear mount for the FF-03 sold out almost everywhere? not just the Tamiya, but also 3Racing and T-Works spur gear mount.

do anyone know if it is discontinued or something?

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2 hours ago, Alexei said:

is it just me, or is the aluminium spur gear mount for the FF-03 sold out almost everywhere? not just the Tamiya, but also 3Racing and T-Works spur gear mount.

do anyone know if it is discontinued or something?

It's still available at our local Tamiya shops. I just recently bought one for my XV01. Two of my friends also got theirs.

86DdMpzl.jpg

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Whats a good base setup for the FF04 in 21.5T blinky on med grip asphalt.

Running kit setup atm, so 400 oil all round with 3 hole pistons, hard springs front, med rear. Will set ride height to 5mm. This is close to my TA07 which is pretty neutral and easy to drive.

The kit doesn't come with front swaybars,  just rear which is annoying. I haven't put a rear one on, apparently the XV01 sway bars are quite soft and people recommend using the TRF418 set. What will be the impact of a rear swaybar and no front?

My main concern is droop, I'm thinking I want minimal droop? I can't see a scenario where I would want much weight transfer front to back, on acceleration I will want weight on the front right, and braking into corners the front is already heavy enough and i don't want a light back end coming around. So maybe set 1mm each end? Or 2mm? Or have I got this completely wrong?

 

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@Jonathon Gillham There's some fine wisdom from @wtcc5 here, on my FF03 4GR thread

I am currently running white extra hard front and yellow medium rear springs, and softest front bar and hardest rear bar. When i have been at the track, i have definitely found a need to run a much stiffer rear bar than for street running. Seems to me that longer running, and higher speed corners build up more heat and grip in the tyres so the car tends towards understeer as the rears come in and then the fronts begin to go off towards the end of a run. My suggestion would be to hook up the stiffest rear bar you have, and check the manual for the sway bar mountings. You might find that with some spare adjusters and ball screws you could fit the softest 418 front bar from your TA07 set usibg some spares or at least minimal new parts. 53644 is the older style sway bar end that would let you build your own fittings easily. 

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@Jonathon Gillham Additional: If gearing isn't fixed by the class, go a little longer than you would in your 4wd. The lower drag of the 2wd means lower motor temps for a given gearing, and taller gearing helped traction on my car. I run 4.1 on the FF03 vs 4.4 on the TB03 on 17.5 blinky. I am guessing you would need to get nearer 3 on 21.5?

 

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3 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

@Jonathon Gillham Additional: If gearing isn't fixed by the class, go a little longer than you would in your 4wd. The lower drag of the 2wd means lower motor temps for a given gearing, and taller gearing helped traction on my car. I run 4.1 on the FF03 vs 4.4 on the TB03 on 17.5 blinky. I am guessing you would need to get nearer 3 on 21.5?

 

Thanks for the link, I found the suggested 2mm front, 2.5mm rear droop, will start there.

Good option to use the soft front bar, I doubt tht will go back on the TA07. I think I will have to cut the bar down a few mm so it may be ruined for the TA07 then.

The IR on the FF04 is 2.6 so gearing is going to be hard. I have a 64T spur which is the smallest I can find (actually thats a lie, the smallest is the 63T thats in my TA07). I may need to swap as the TA07 now has IR of 1.85, I changed the centre pulley. Funnily enough it runs cooler at the same FDR than the standard IR, but I think it must just have been a cooler day otherwise thats some weird magic going on.

I haven't fitted a pinion yet, but I think around 37 will be the biggest that will fit, which gives around 4.5, so too high. May have to switch to 64p gears to get down to 3.5 or so.

I have an old SpeedPassion in there at the moment, I will buy new motors next year. At this point I'm not worried about being last in the frontie class.

Tyres, I have sorex 24 which is what I run on my TA07, they are the goto tyre for 21.5T TC class, but no idea about fronties. I'll just hope they work.

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49 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Thanks for the link, I found the suggested 2mm front, 2.5mm rear droop, will start there.

Good option to use the soft front bar, I doubt tht will go back on the TA07. I think I will have to cut the bar down a few mm so it may be ruined for the TA07 then.

The IR on the FF04 is 2.6 so gearing is going to be hard. I have a 64T spur which is the smallest I can find (actually thats a lie, the smallest is the 63T thats in my TA07). I may need to swap as the TA07 now has IR of 1.85, I changed the centre pulley. Funnily enough it runs cooler at the same FDR than the standard IR, but I think it must just have been a cooler day otherwise thats some weird magic going on.

I haven't fitted a pinion yet, but I think around 37 will be the biggest that will fit, which gives around 4.5, so too high. May have to switch to 64p gears to get down to 3.5 or so.

I have an old SpeedPassion in there at the moment, I will buy new motors next year. At this point I'm not worried about being last in the frontie class.

Tyres, I have sorex 24 which is what I run on my TA07, they are the goto tyre for 21.5T TC class, but no idea about fronties. I'll just hope they work.

You definitely need to ditch the Tamiya gears if you want to get anything sensible on gearing, although a 37t pinion is big! I guess it depends on your track, but we run around 4.5 indoor on really tight tracks on 17.5, so my guess is you need something in the low 3s for 21.5. I run 48dp gears on mine (64dp is good too, i just had 48 already), but with the high internal ratio you need to be careful with minimum distance between centre of the spur shaft and motor spindle. If you push the motor as far back as possible against the gearcase, measure the distance between centres then use this webpage to figure out what combo of spur gear and pinion will get you your gearing and still fit. 

https://ultrascale.uk/node/15

As for tyres, starting with what you know is as good a place as any. I run Sweep34s on both fwd and 4wd at our outdoor track. 

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Maybe you gentlemen can help me.... The last time I Raced On Road for points and Trophies, NiMH Batteries were a RECENT addition! 😧  I've heard of "Blinky" Motors for a couple of years - but have been bashful to ask......

WHAT is a Blinky?? All I know about them is that they're Brushless.

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25 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

Maybe you gentlemen can help me.... The last time I Raced On Road for points and Trophies, NiMH Batteries were a RECENT addition! 😧  I've heard of "Blinky" Motors for a couple of years - but have been bashful to ask......

WHAT is a Blinky?? All I know about them is that they're Brushless.

Blinky is an ESC mode. With brushless, motor timing is controlled by the ESC software, not the motor hardware (okay, actually, you can also change the sensor angle on the motor and thus influence the input for the ESC software). ESCs have a special mode where timing tuning is disabled for race classes where this is prohibited. The fact that this mode is enabled is indicated by a blinking LED. Thus "blinky mode" or short "blinky".

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1 hour ago, FuzzyFlynn said:

Blinky is an ESC mode. With brushless, motor timing is controlled by the ESC software, not the motor hardware (okay, actually, you can also change the sensor angle on the motor and thus influence the input for the ESC software). ESCs have a special mode where timing tuning is disabled for race classes where this is prohibited. The fact that this mode is enabled is indicated by a blinking LED. Thus "blinky mode" or short "blinky".

Thank you!!! So, basically like Stock Class.... Or back in the 80's, this is like the modern version of the Brushed, 10 degree, 27 Turn, Locked Stock Motor? 

(Although some of us figured out back then that "skewing" the Armature, and even "Supercharging" the Magnets with a powerful Electric Magnetizer, were very early CHEATS for "Stock Motors"!! 😜)  It was soon after that, that Stock Racing involved a Tech Crew, handing out Motors before each Race Day!!

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52 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

Thank you!!! So, basically like Stock Class.... Or back in the 80's, this is like the modern version of the Brushed, 10 degree, 27 Turn, Locked Stock Motor? 

(Although some of us figured out back then that "skewing" the Armature, and even "Supercharging" the Magnets with a powerful Electric Magnetizer, were very early CHEATS for "Stock Motors"!! 😜)  It was soon after that, that Stock Racing involved a Tech Crew, handing out Motors before each Race Day!!

Exactly that. You can still adjust timing on the motor and you can choose any motor or esc so there's still scope for spending fast, but broadly it keeps things fairly equal. 

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For parking lot/street bashing, disable the blinky and set the BL ESC's boost and turbo. That's where the brushless system fun comes in. :D

uSEPCUZh.jpg

9x4zOdAh.jpg

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15 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

It's still available at our local Tamiya shops. I just recently bought one for my XV01. Two of my friends also got theirs.

86DdMpzl.jpg

i checked with my local hobby shop, they said the supplier dont even have it in the system, so it cant be ordered. then i searched all corners of the internet, and found only few places with it in stock, but none in EU.

im not sure if what your shops have is fresh stock, but when i search around it could look like this part is out of production.

i will use an 17.5T brushless motor in the FF-03, so i would highly prefer this part in aluminium.

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15 minutes ago, Alexei said:

i checked with my local hobby shop, they said the supplier dont even have it in the system, so it cant be ordered. then i searched all corners of the internet, and found only few places with it in stock, but none in EU.

im not sure if what your shops have is fresh stock, but when i search around it could look like this part is out of production.

i will use an 17.5T brushless motor in the FF-03, so i would highly prefer this part in aluminium.

Sorry to hear about that. The local shop is an official Tamiya/Futaba (three branches) stores here. Although they lack many rare parts too but surprisingly, they have the FF-03 parts that aren't available in RCMart anymore. Like the aluminum bumper mount 84376 and aluminum front upper suspension mount 84361. 

If you only lived nearby, I would send you one...

for free.

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5 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

Sorry to hear about that. The local shop is an official Tamiya/Futaba (three branches) stores here. Although they lack many rare parts too but surprisingly, they have the FF-03 parts that aren't available in RCMart anymore. Like the aluminum bumper mount 84376 and aluminum front upper suspension mount 84361. 

If you only lived nearby, I would send you one...

for free.

we dont have official Tamiya or Futaba stores here, just the shops that buys their stock through the importers/supplier. having an actual official Tamiya or Futaba store sounds kind of exotic to me :).

sending one (i take it we are talking the Tamiya 54234 here) for free would have been very nice of you. if it is not too much trouble and you would help, i would pay for it. the cost of spur gear mount and cost of shipping.

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I'm making battery mounts for the FF04. The chassis has slots for tape but I don't want to us tape. Making the mounts is easy, and ita mostly done, but one end needs to use the slot to screw the mount to the chassis. At the moment I have it attached with a button head screw which obviously sticks out. The other end has a countersunk hole which I'm using.

Can i use a drill to countersink a piece of the slot, or will this damage the chassis plate, or rather make it start to fray and ruin it over the long term? I can do it at home with a hand drill, or a friend has a mill which would obviously do a better job.

Is there any downside to doing this?

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58 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I'm making battery mounts for the FF04. The chassis has slots for tape but I don't want to us tape. Making the mounts is easy, and ita mostly done, but one end needs to use the slot to screw the mount to the chassis. At the moment I have it attached with a button head screw which obviously sticks out. The other end has a countersunk hole which I'm using.

Can i use a drill to countersink a piece of the slot, or will this damage the chassis plate, or rather make it start to fray and ruin it over the long term? I can do it at home with a hand drill, or a friend has a mill which would obviously do a better job.

Is there any downside to doing this?

You can use a drill for creating a hole but it won't make a proper countersunk hole and might mess up the CF. Use a dremel and a countersunk bit to do the job. 

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1 hour ago, Alexei said:

we dont have official Tamiya or Futaba stores here, just the shops that buys their stock through the importers/supplier. having an actual official Tamiya or Futaba store sounds kind of exotic to me :).

sending one (i take it we are talking the Tamiya 54234 here) for free would have been very nice of you. if it is not too much trouble and you would help, i would pay for it. the cost of spur gear mount and cost of shipping.

Ok let me check on postage fee. I'll get back to you. 

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3 minutes ago, Nicadraus said:

You can use a drill for creating a hole but it won't make a proper countersunk hole and might mess up the CF. Use a dremel and a countersunk bit to do the job. 

I had no idea they exist! An excuse for a new tool. Good timing that our lockdown restrictions relax tomorrow so I can go buy one

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according to the tracking, my FF-03 should have arrived in my country friday. that means high probability of it getting delivered monday. looking forward to it :)

1 hour ago, Nicadraus said:

Ok let me check on postage fee. I'll get back to you. 

just PM'ed you, so it wont take up this thread.

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FF rides on here are super nice, so this one button should suffice for all the Likes that i would have clicked on

Amazon.com: Baomain Red Sign Emergency Stop Switch Push Button Weatherproof Push  Button Switch 660V with Box: Home Improvement

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