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Nicadraus

Tamiya FF Club

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On 1/11/2021 at 7:21 PM, wtcc5 said:

I don’t know. With 44mm shafts and geardiff you need at least 1XA blocks.

Sorry but I will have to correct you on this one.

I'm using 1XD for FF, FR, RF and 1A for RR. I'm also using gear diff and gear diff case (from the FF-03R) and 44mm DCJ. While my other FF-03 uses standard ball diff, I've upgraded the ball joint outdrives to aluminum (with the same length to stock) and using the same suspension mounts/blocks specs and 44mm CVD. I didn't have to change the suspension mounts to other specs and have zero issues. No binding on both cars.

As seen below, 44mm DCJ with 1XD mounts

Vk4uQYZh.jpg

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1 hour ago, FuzzyFlynn said:

If you want to learn about Tamiya suspension blocks, go here: https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html

THANK YOU!! I had forgotten about that one. I've been drooling over the FF Chassis Cars for so long, that I did read this a while back. Great resource!! 👍👍

49 minutes ago, Nicadraus said:

Sorry but I will have to correct you on this one.

I'm using 1XD for FF, FR, RF and 1A for RR. I'm also using gear diff and gear diff case (from the FF-03R) and 44mm DCJ. While my other FF-03 uses standard ball diff, I've upgraded the ball joint outdrives to aluminum (with the same length to stock) and using the same suspension mounts/blocks specs and 44mm CVD. I didn't have to change the suspension mounts to other specs and have zero issues. No binding on both cars.

As seen below, 44mm DCJ with 1XD mounts

Vk4uQYZh.jpg

So.... I'm good with the 1XD Plastic Blocks, or will I need to invest in Alumininium Blocks?? 

I won't be doing any serious Racing (unless Tucson EVER gets a serious Track again). But I always appreciate a well handling and solid Machine.

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8 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

THANK YOU!! I had forgotten about that one. I've been drooling over the FF Chassis Cars for so long, that I did read this a while back. Great resource!! 👍👍

So.... I'm good with the 1XD Plastic Blocks, or will I need to invest in Alumininium Blocks?? 

I won't be doing any serious Racing (unless Tucson EVER gets a serious Track again). But I always appreciate a well handling and solid Machine.

Well some people will tell you that most aluminum parts are just "bling". But the aluminum suspension mounts/blocks are a good upgrade that serves good purpose. Rigidity and precision. It will also go well with steel pivot balls.

Also on a note: The FF-03R uses the same gear diff and case with the 44mm CVD. 1XD aluminum mounts are included in the kit. So no need of changing that.

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2 minutes ago, Nicadraus said:

Well some people will tell you that most aluminum parts are just "bling". But the aluminum suspension mounts/blocks are a good upgrade that serves good purpose. Rigidity and precision. It will also go well with steel pivot balls. 

I figured that.... Precision is my thing when it comes to Cars - the little ones or the ones I sit in! 😉  I WON'T stand for any SLOP in my real Car, and although impossible, strive to eliminate it in RC....

I will be investing in Aluminum Blocks - IF I can get them in the U.S. - or even England.

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@Nicadraus I am sorry!!! You are right! I checked again. It will work. I must’ve mixed it up. It is not much space, but should be fine.

Again sorry for the misinformation :unsure:

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31 minutes ago, wtcc5 said:

@Nicadraus I am sorry!!! You are right! I checked again. It will work. I must’ve mixed it up. It is not much space, but should be fine.

Again sorry for the misinformation :unsure:

No need for apology. I'm sure it was an honest mistake on the misinformation. ;) 

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@Carmine A I would say the aluminum suspension blocks are one of the essential upgrades.  When I had the plastic ones in my TA07 it developed slop after the first race meet, I shimmed it then it had more slop after the next race meet etc.

You don't need to buy Tamiya ones, I bought Yeah Racing for US1.99 per piece for my FF04, except for 1 Tamiya one which cost more than the other 3 just to get the right size.  The Yeah Racing ones appear to be just as good as the Tamiya ones.  You also need the balls to go in them, there may be some on the parts tree, but its worth looking at the steel or coated ones when you order the blocks as to me the plastic ones may not last that long.

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36 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

@Carmine A I would say the aluminum suspension blocks are one of the essential upgrades.  When I had the plastic ones in my TA07 it developed slop after the first race meet, I shimmed it then it had more slop after the next race meet etc.

You don't need to buy Tamiya ones, I bought Yeah Racing for US1.99 per piece for my FF04, except for 1 Tamiya one which cost more than the other 3 just to get the right size.  The Yeah Racing ones appear to be just as good as the Tamiya ones.  You also need the balls to go in them, there may be some on the parts tree, but its worth looking at the steel or coated ones when you order the blocks as to me the plastic ones may not last that long.

I would definitely get the Steel Ball Ends when I get the Aluminum Blocks. I've seen how Aluminum EATS Plastic!! 😲 

I had my first mess up, and I hope it's not bad... I first tried fitting a Rear Block in the Front!!! (They both said XD). I was wondering why the Bushing wouldn't go in.... Eventually DRILLING THE HOLES in the Block to 6mm, before I looked closer at the Manual, and found that both ends up Front had small holes!!! 😠😠😠😭 

Fortunately there were more than 4 Blocks in the Kit.... But since I RUINED the one that was supposed to go in back, I had to get creative with what was left.... spacer.png 1X forward and 1A rear. I've got a degree of Toe-In, I've just widened the Rear Track a bit. I'm hoping that I accidentally improved it!! 😜  What do you Guys think??

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Just been tidying up my Shapeways store and realised I hand't mentioned I did some repro FF01 front arms. Mine are in the cheapest Versatile Plastic on my runner and they've been solid, including some track running. Get PA11 if you want something really strong.

710x528_32943459_17416441_1603221116.jpg

http://shpws.me/SjSb

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@ThunderDragonCy Have you had a chance to try this yet? spacer.png

The only thing I'm not loving about the FF-03 (besides that Ball Diff!!), is that Plastic Central Bridge. Supported by Steel Bushings by Screws - looks like the ONLY part of the whole Car that Tamiya cheaped out on. 😖  Your Bearing Supported Link looks the business!! 👍👍  And, the Central Mounted, longer Tie Rods appears like it would greatly reduce Bump Steer. 😉

Side note - Peeve of mine with Asian RC Products.... Us Auto Mechanics have always called it a Center Link or Drag Link. Not sure where "Bridge" came from. 😳

Also, just something surprising..... I typed "FF-03" in the Shapeways search box - and your part was the ONLY 3D Printed FF-03 Part in the World?? 😳😞

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i bought the Tamiya 5mm suspension balls (50944) for my FF-03. they can be used in place of the plastic ones used en the rear. not sure what metal it is made of though.

would the aluminium suspension blocks be overkill for bashing? i have noticed the amount of slop with the suspsension front arms is a little different from left to right side, despite having put aluminium shims on.

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3 hours ago, Alexei said:

i bought the Tamiya 5mm suspension balls (50944) for my FF-03. they can be used in place of the plastic ones used en the rear. not sure what metal it is made of though.

would the aluminium suspension blocks be overkill for bashing? i have noticed the amount of slop with the suspsension front arms is a little different from left to right side, despite having put aluminium shims on.

Its not a case of overkill, its whether you want to spend the money on them. I would, but look for Yeah Racing and just get ones that work, not worry about the size so much (obviously you need the same FF FR and RF and RR matched to get the right toe in) as its much cheaper that way. Since swapping them into my TA07 i've had no slop or need of shims, they make a massive difference.

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8 hours ago, Alexei said:

i bought the Tamiya 5mm suspension balls (50944) for my FF-03. they can be used in place of the plastic ones used en the rear. not sure what metal it is made of though.

would the aluminium suspension blocks be overkill for bashing? i have noticed the amount of slop with the suspsension front arms is a little different from left to right side, despite having put aluminium shims on.

Aluminum suspension blocks isn't overkill whether for racing or bashing. The rigidity and precision plays an important role.

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ok, will consider it as the next upgrade. i think i will go with the Tamiya ones, as those are the easiest for me to find and, the price is reasonable.

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On 1/15/2021 at 2:25 PM, Carmine A said:

@ThunderDragonCy Have you had a chance to try this yet? spacer.png

The only thing I'm not loving about the FF-03 (besides that Ball Diff!!), is that Plastic Central Bridge. Supported by Steel Bushings by Screws - looks like the ONLY part of the whole Car that Tamiya cheaped out on. 😖  Your Bearing Supported Link looks the business!! 👍👍  And, the Central Mounted, longer Tie Rods appears like it would greatly reduce Bump Steer. 😉

Side note - Peeve of mine with Asian RC Products.... Us Auto Mechanics have always called it a Center Link or Drag Link. Not sure where "Bridge" came from. 😳

Also, just something surprising..... I typed "FF-03" in the Shapeways search box - and your part was the ONLY 3D Printed FF-03 Part in the World?? 😳😞

Yes, i have it installed on my car. Works great, but you do need to do some mild chassis mods so the longer links clear the tub. The central position for the ballscrews is theoretically better for steering, but you need to buy long turnbuckles to reach them. If you read the instructions on the product there it should all be explained. It's certainly much smoother and slop free compared to the kit part. I agree with you - the kit link is pretty basic. 

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30 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Yes, i have it installed on my car. Works great, but you do need to do some mild chassis mods so the longer links clear the tub. The central position for the ballscrews is theoretically better for steering, but you need to buy long turnbuckles to reach them. If you read the instructions on the product there it should all be explained. It's certainly much smoother and slop free compared to the kit part. I agree with you - the kit link is pretty basic. 

Thank you so much!! 😊  Slop FREE, all I need to know.....  EXCEPT, which material do I want (color notwithstanding)? I've got paint. 😉 

And modifications? I'm already Modding the Chassis, and it's not even BUILT yet!! 😜  IF the Moderator will EVER approve my Thread in the "Builds" Section.... You can start to see.

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6 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

Thank you so much!! 😊  Slop FREE, all I need to know.....  EXCEPT, which material do I want (color notwithstanding)? I've got paint. 😉 

And modifications? I'm already Modding the Chassis, and it's not even BUILT yet!! 😜  IF the Moderator will EVER approve my Thread in the "Builds" Section.... You can start to see.

Just get it in the cheapest white Versatile Plastic and paint whatever colour you like. That's what i have. 

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I don’t want to kill ThunderDragons business here, just having a suggestion after I recently bought the carbon bridge HopUp:

The FF03 carbon steering bridge is very much like the plastic bridge, but with bearings. Buy the bearing, widen the holes and install with 0.4mm shims and you are good to go (without the long link conversion and Ackermann adjustment like Thunderdragons part offers, of course).

Or look for the carbon bridge part. It mostly goes for 30€ in Europe, but the shop I bought it (even was a shop on Amazon), sold it new for 15€. Maybe you find a similar deal.

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Kevin..... That definitely falls under "WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THAT!!" 😲

At least two ways to go about this. First - find a Bearing with a 4mm I.D., and use a Brass Shock Sleeve and 3mm Screw.

Second - get the Measurement of the Sleeve.........

WAIT!!! 4.5mm x 3.5mm!!!???  😖😲  That's a catastrophically BAD plan - even for TAMIYA!!! WHAT can we do with THAT?  Any thoughts?   Also, looking at the "Bridge"🌉, it doesn't appear that you could drill those holes past 6mm, without compromising strength. DOES a 6x3mm Bearing even exist?? 

Maybe Cy's idea is a good one... It would just count on someone with a 3D Printer to Print it for me, and getting a couple of longer Tie Rods. 😉

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3 hours ago, Carmine A said:

K DOES a 6x3mm Bearing even exist?? 

Yes, and they're actually quite common on upper end Tamiya steering setups. Tamiya calls it a 630 bearing, and it's 6x3x2.5mm thickness.

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With regards to steering links and bridges for the FF-03, I'm using both the Tamiya aluminum steering set (54235) with carbon fiber bridge plate (84410) and the 3 Racing Steering track set (FF03-12/LB). Both uses bearings for the bridges and they are equally at par in terms of precision and performance. The Tamiya is installed in my on-road (Pro-R) and the 3Racing in the rally car (RR).

8cbjJEul.jpg

But the 3R is cheaper. 

https://www.rcmart.com/3racing-steering-track-for-tamiya-ff03-ff03-12-lb-00032196

Another option is the XV-01 steering set which also work with the FF-03.

54451 https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-xv-01-aluminum-steering-arms-fits-pro-t-tc-ff-03-54451-00036200

and the bridge

54454 https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-xv-01-aluminum-steering-brideg-fits-pro-t-tc-ff-03-uprade-set-54454-00036229

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@Nicadraus Good options ALL!! Do you know what Turnbuckles I'll need? For any of those setups above, the Turnbuckles are obviously longer. 😉

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I really do need to know what length Turnbuckles I'll need for the Center Steering Bridge. There's even a chance I've already got them! 😉

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6 hours ago, Carmine A said:

I really do need to know what length Turnbuckles I'll need for the Center Steering Bridge. There's even a chance I've already got them! 😉

For the 3R bridge, you will need 42mm turnbuckles and 32mm if you choose to go for the Tamiya set.

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