Tamiya FF Club

[Nicadraus 6433]

15 hours ago, GMballistic said:

@Nicadraus or anyone else that maybe able to shed any light on this. 
I'm building my FF03 and wanted to fit aluminium suspension blocks but am having issues with the front dogbones falling out of the drivecups. I assumed at first it was because I widened the track width too much as I originally fitted some "1A" Tamiya suspension blocks. 

Since then though I bought "1XC" blocks as they were the closest I could get easily and cheaply to the standard "1XD" blocks. 

I am using;
Sakura D3 (44mm) CVD's, Tamiya TA06 steel gear differential and a "Spec R" made gearbox case. 

Put it all together and still feel like the dogbone ends do not sit in the cups enough. I haven't fit it altogether yet with the suspension but am wondering can I use this set up on the front or is the only option using "1XD" blocks with this set up or changing to longer length CVD's??
Thank you for any help.

 

With the 1XD ( zero degree) in front of the FF-03, the dogbone, CVD or DCJ shafts required is 44mm which is a perfect fit. I guess with 1A which has a wider track, will require a longer shaft like 46mm. Both of my FF-03 are using 1XD for FF/FR/RF and 1A for the RR. SO both cars are using 44mm. Tamiya DCJ for the FF-03Pro-R which uses an "R" gear case and Sakura CVD for the FF-03RR which uses the standard gearbox with modified aluminum joint cups..

Here's a site that will help you with each suspension mount codes. Also shows some charts.

https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html

[GMballistic 28]

4 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

With the 1XD ( zero degree) in front of the FF-03, the dogbone, CVD or DCJ shafts required is 44mm which is a perfect fit. I guess with 1A which has a wider track, will require a longer shaft like 46mm. Both of my FF-03 are using 1XD for FF/FR/RF and 1A for the RR. SO both cars are using 44mm. Tamiya DCJ for the FF-03Pro-R which uses an "R" gear case and Sakura CVD for the FF-03RR which uses the standard gearbox with modified aluminum joint cups..

Here's a site that will help you with each suspension mount codes. Also shows some charts.

https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html

Thanks and yes I've recently read all the info on "The RC Racer" page which is part of why I didn't think that 0.75mm track width difference between the "1XD" mount and "1XC" mount would be a problem. I guess it is though. 

Any suggestions for CVD's that will fit the FF03 then with a longer length?

[GMballistic 28]

Think I've just sorted it, ...or wasted yet more money on parts that don't fit.  

Just bought some 3Racing 46mm shafts that according to Asiatees fits the FF03/Sakura so hopefully I can swap out my 44mm shafts which should give me the extra reach I need. Fingers crossed. 

I would share pictures of my build but want to get it all sorted first. 

[YoShImUrA53 37]

I wondered if both of you are talking about the gear case for the ball diff (regular FF03), or gear diff (the one for the FF03 Pro, iirc, not sure if EVO, FF04 as well).

I'd like to ask which shaft length do you need for both regular CVDs and DCJ on either diff casings, for a standard length A-arm.

Thanks in advance!

[Nicadraus 6433]

5 hours ago, YoShImUrA53 said:

I wondered if both of you are talking about the gear case for the ball diff (regular FF03), or gear diff (the one for the FF03 Pro, iirc, not sure if EVO, FF04 as well).

I'd like to ask which shaft length do you need for both regular CVDs and DCJ on either diff casings, for a standard length A-arm.

Thanks in advance!

Bu using the standard 1XD suspension mount, standard shaft length (dogbone, CVD & DCJ) would be 44mm. On either the R gearcase or the stock one. 

[GMballistic 28]

@YoShImUrA53 it is only because I have changed my suspension blocks to none standard width that is causing me the issue as @Nicadraus above mentions standard shaft length (44mm) would be fine with ball diff or gear diff & cases providing the 1XD suspension blocks were being used. 

1XC suspension blocks.

44mm CVD unit next to the 46mm CVD shaft from 3Racing that I have fitted now. 

All fitted.

[YoShImUrA53 37]

Thanks for that, guys! I only need to doublecheck for the length for DCJ now. =)

[OoALEJOoO 3256]

The FF-03 manual quite interestingly points that the chassis can be built in 3 different wheelbases: 257, 245 and 233mm.

Looking at Tamiyabase.com, across all FF-01, FF-02 and FF-03 releases, it seems that the majority of cars are 257mm (or 258mm), with only two at 245mm (Renault Clio Williams and VW Golf VR6). None in 233mm.

Is this accurate? I am falling in love with the FF-03 and would like to experiment with shorter wheelbases. Not sure I've ever seen a 233mm Tamiya body, with perhaps the closes being bodies made for the TA-02SW at 236mm.

[YoShImUrA53 37]

Very interesting! I built the Clio back in '96, my first RC and at 9 years old, so I barely remember it at all, and I didn't realize it was a 245mm. I wonder if the Team C (AKA L&L) reproduction is also the correct 245mm wheelbase... I've been tempted to get it for my FF03 chassis.

Btw, here's my recently done Tamiya FF03 with a Team C 306 Maxi body (shame Tamiya doesn't re-re this), and 3d printed pod lights.

The light pod is held with magnets, same as the hole body, which also provides the electricity through a small pair of holes made to pass the current through minuscule round magnets on the hood. Missing the driver's heads, until I can get some printed, as the Tamiya ones are not accurate for this particular car.

 

[Nicadraus 6433]

On 12/4/2022 at 6:32 PM, OoALEJOoO said:

The FF-03 manual quite interestingly points that the chassis can be built in 3 different wheelbases: 257, 245 and 233mm.

Looking at Tamiyabase.com, across all FF-01, FF-02 and FF-03 releases, it seems that the majority of cars are 257mm (or 258mm), with only two at 245mm (Renault Clio Williams and VW Golf VR6). None in 233mm.

Is this accurate? I am falling in love with the FF-03 and would like to experiment with shorter wheelbases. Not sure I've ever seen a 233mm Tamiya body, with perhaps the closes being bodies made for the TA-02SW at 236mm.

This Corolla WRC (by L&L) body has a wheelbase of 233mm so I adjusted my FF-03RR to 233mm. The body has the same exact spec, size and dimension as the Tamiya Corolla WRC that came with the TA-03F.

Side by side with my FF-01 which is also set to 233mm (originally came with the Renault Clio body

Side by side. FF-03RR in 233mm and FF-03Pro-R in 257mm wheelbase.

 

[OoALEJOoO 3256]

@Nicadraus Thanks for the info. Indeed, looking into Tamiyabase under TA-03F-S, there are two rally models with 237mm wheelbases: Toyota Corolla WRC and Peugeot 206 WRC.

How does the FF-03 233mm wheelbase drive? Does it have the same effect seen on the M-05, where a shorter wheelbase increases agility and turn-in?

[Nicadraus 6433]

3 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

@Nicadraus Thanks for the info. Indeed, looking into Tamiyabase under TA-03F-S, there are two rally models with 237mm wheelbases: Toyota Corolla WRC and Peugeot 206 WRC.

How does the FF-03 233mm wheelbase drive? Does it have the same effect seen on the M-05, where a shorter wheelbase increases agility and turn-in?

I've never driven the M05 before. The only M I've tried was the original M-chassis and M03 to which I didn't like both. Going back to the FF-03 233mm, It's more agile than it was on in 257mm on dirt which lessened the understeer while I didn't notice very much on paved surface. 

[GMballistic 28]

Almost time to start sorting my bodyshell but unfortunately testing found an issue somewhere in my drivetrain. 

Spur gear is tight to turn and doesn't turn smoothly so need to investigate the front gearbox assembly. Any ideas? 

[GMballistic 28]

Found my issue after dismantling the gearbox assembly this evening. 
The Tamiya geared differential had been fouling on the Spec-R gearbox case. 

You can see how the diff looked when I first assembled it prior to assembly.



And below after I dismantled the diff case last night to inspect, ..a silver/polished edge is now visible where it was fouling inside the gearbox case.


I used my bench grinder to add more of a chamfered edge to the diff, tidied up with sand paper and then also modified the inside of the gearbox diff casing by filing out the edge a little to give some more clearance. 
Put it all back together and now turns smoothly again. Hopefully test run it in the weekend. 

[GMballistic 28]

Shell painted up for my FF03 ~ it's the Honda Accord "Aero Custom".

Sorry to the purists but I cut the back off as it is a speed run build. 

 

[lukej 320]

I am now a member of the club, having proudly won a NIB FF-03R on eBay, and maybe, if I’m lucky @wtcc5 will help me build a second as a KR-MF 😉

Luke

[OoALEJOoO 3256]

I've been trying to add front negative camber to my FF-03 without success. It seems that the hub carrier touches the lower suspension arm at around 0deg camber. Shortening the upper turnbuckle link gets me nowhere since the hub carrier is already jammed. Before I resort to trimming parts, I wanted to reach out to the FF03 experts here in Tamiya Club for advice. Is this normal or am I missing something? Running a fairly stock FF-03.

[wtcc5 5571]

Please check again with the manual. If your car is stock then the suspension itself should be able to easily allow 3-4 degree camber. A normal 24mm wide wheel should also allow enough space for that angle.

Please also check if it is not caused by the cardan bottoming out in the diff outdrive and that the turnbuckles have enough reserve. 

[OoALEJOoO 3256]

@wtcc5 Thanks for the response. Indeed, I've checked the manual and it seems built as it should be. There is plenty of space in the diff outdrive to move further in and also the turnbuckles have enough reserve. I even removed both the universals and turnbuckle to be sure and confirmed the pinching point is between the hub carrier and the lower suspension arm. The below picture shows where they touch, with the turnbuckle disconnected. Camber is about 0deg at this point:

The hub carrier and lower suspension arm are connected only via one 3mm pin, most likely I didn't assemble it wrong (or maybe I did! ). I have two FF-03 and they both have the same limitation. I'm quite puzzled .

My only thought is that this is caused by having the car with maximum droop (lower arms touching the lower deck). If the lower arms are pushed up a bit, they do separate from the hub carrier.

[wtcc5 5571]

Droop can be the problem. Normally, RTR loaded and then lifted, the chassis should move up approximately 1.5 - 2mm, before the tire leaves the ground 

[Busdriver 6281]

I think I’ve just become the newest member of the FF club. Just taken delivery of a pre loved FF03 from @Grumpy pants.

 It’s pretty basic and I’m going to leave it that way to start with. It came with a Civic body that had been painted with something that didn’t stick too well. Plus side of that is it should all come off fairly easily!!! I’ll need to get a new set of stickers as the windows, lights etc are all pretty ropey and also the window masks. The tyres are shot so a few different sets to be ordered. I’ve replaced the silvercan with a black Sport Tuned for a little more pep. I’ll use the Civic shell as a runner whilst I prepare the Pug 306 max with Sebastian Loeb Red Bull sticker set and wheels (L&L) . This leads me to what I think will be the first of many questions. Where can I get a new set of bodyposts as the front Civic ones are too low for the Pug, I think?. Can’t seem to find the right parts tree in any of the obvious places?? Are there any alternative fixing points if I can’t get original ones like maybe on the front bumper. 
I have to say this is the sexiest looking chassis I’ve had even absolutely bog standard!! 

[Grumpy pants 5231]

@Busdriver, great progress already!

The FF03 is to me one of the most interesting Tamiya chassis’, this is based solely on design and the layout - no practical experience 😂

 

[Busdriver 6281]

Changed a bit in the last two days!!! 

. Had a couple of issues fitting the body. The first is that the bumper plate seems to stop the body sitting down and also the lower grill hits the engine mount / frame. So I’ve taken the bumper off for the time being and have had to cut the body to get clearance. At the rear I returned the car to stock 2.5 degrees toe in and shifted the rear arms forwards to get the wheels into the middle of the arch. Letting the white cure then I will back it with silver if I have any then on to the stickers. Also have to paint the mirrors and spoiler, not sure I need to do the wheels?

[Grumpy pants 5231]

4 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Changed a bit in the last two days!!! 

. Had a couple of issues fitting the body. The first is that the bumper plate seems to stop the body sitting down and also the lower grill hits the engine mount / frame. So I’ve taken the bumper off for the time being and have had to cut the body to get clearance. At the rear I returned the car to stock 2.5 degrees toe in and shifted the rear arms forwards to get the wheels into the middle of the arch. Letting the white cure then I will back it with silver if I have any then on to the stickers. Also have to paint the mirrors and spoiler, not sure I need to do the wheels?

Amazing progress 👍

Yes, stick to white for the wheels imo 👍

I had several 106 Rallyes a few years ago and they all  came with white steel wheels from the factory. 

My 309 GTI had tungsten grey alloy wheels,  but that was more of a road weapon. 

[one_hit 1079]

FF gurus, would any of you know which diffs fit the Spec-R gearbox for the FF-03? Will the TA06 rear gear diff fit in it? The Spec-R gearbox comes with inserts for ball diff and gear diff but I’m not sure which gear diff it is meant for (Tamiya or the Spec-R gear diff)