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Mardave Marauder Restoration

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So I finished the body last week. I wanted the 1990s box art but with a deeper colour blue. I should add at this point I dont really know what the roof or the wing or the rear of the car look like, I have only ever seen the picture below of the box, not like a Tamiya where we get to clearly see all sides and perspectives...

The paints are all halfords rattle cans, I am not very patient when it comes to painting and masking but I tried hard with this one. I gave the body a light sanding, the original silver colour was OK as a base but there where a couple of areas where the paint had dripped. I then added around 4-5 coats of white primer, this is thick and rubbed down well. I then sprayed it a couple of coats of white. Now I masked it off where the white would be. I then applied 2-3 coats of clear laquer to stop the blue and green bleeding through the masking tape. Now I Masked off the blue area and sprayed 2 coats of green, then masked off then green area and sprayed 2 coats of blue. Finally I did 2 coats of petrol proof clear laquer to finish it off. Between each colour I left the car for a day to dry and then I left it for a week after the final laquer was on. Decals are just stuff  had lying around. 

I am pleased with the final result and looking forward to running it with the body on.

 

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boxart shot.JPG

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front.JPG

rear 3.JPG

rhs 1.JPG

rhs close 3.JPG

The Box.JPG

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So a bit of early evening fun. For those who have watched other vids of mine the space should be well known and you can see just how poorly the Mardave handles the bumps. Going to do a couple of old school mods and try and calm that "bounciness" down but for now just happy to hear that engine popping and spluttering its way through a few mins of running. I hope you enjoy this as much as I did getting here...

 

 

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So the first two / three mods are done and wow what a difference, the car is night and day in handling.

So I had read about a mod that was for the front suspension using Roughrider/Sandscorcher dampers, and I thought I would apply them to the rear instead. They are sort of period, albeit more for the 1981 release as opposed the 1990 that my model is. I had these in my spares and I also had the CRP coilovers. I had seen a car on http://mardavemarauder.weebly.com/ that had a different rear suspension set up than the standard Mardave upgrade and thought - I can make those. So here you have it, rear suspension extension ears.

In addition I had seen a few cars that had Tamiya Universal Joints (UJs) again quite a period upgrade, they require drilling out to 6mm and then the rear wheel shafts are too long however today I just ran with the wider track as I did not want to do any un-reversible mods.  As I say above wow, wow, wow, what a difference. I was able to put down sustained power and the car remained "quite" planted... I say quite because its still a handful, just much less of a handful than it was :)

A quick pic showing the shocks and the UJs, also there is another spring inside the shock body with the oil - or at least what oil is left, these are old SRB shocks after all :)

Going to try and fit a damper under the front body and fit a brake. Still struggling to get the tune, but getting closer with every attempt.

mods.thumb.png.aa454250cd10ba9ea48826e61a644f36.png

 

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Yeah I have plans for that as well, only issue I have with a brake is my carb is an air carb so no throttle stop screw, but I think I can work something out.

was also thinking I could 3D print the front optional bumper mounts, can’t see it being too hard and then the actual rod itself is simply a metal bar.

Still got an engine problem not sure if it’s tuning or perhaps timing, going to try a cooler plug when I next get out.

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Very nice @KEV THE REV.I like the raised brake, most I have seen are from the chassis floor up, but this looks cleaner. I have noticed that the shape of yours and others front windshield is different to mine, yours is raised - jutting out at the top, whereas mine is flat.

On the front bumper mounts, are they fixed with one or two screws or some other combination?

Many Thanks

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Yes , there are 2 styles of shell . Your style ( which I believe is later ) and my style , not sure why they changed it , maybe it was to give more clearance for components inside . The bumper mounts are fixed with just one self tapper from the back and the rod is a tight friction fit in the mounts , no screws . The brake set up worked well . I made a bell crank from alu plate and extended the rear servo plate to fit it in . The throttle servo arm rotates backs back to apply the brake .

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pay the courier to collect from my house, then yes. :-)  I will measure/weigh and get a price in the meantime.

 

Mark

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25 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:

Ok , not to worry . I was thinking of a project down the line , but I'll pass - thanks anyway Mark :)

So you thought I would pay you to take it?  Wow...

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7 hours ago, FerrisBFW said:

So you thought I would pay you to take it?  Wow...

Not at all mate.  I would have paid you postage & costs to post it to me at a post office, that's why I said would you post it as I don't live near you , simple question . I don't expect anything for free !!. Maybe someone else can use it , I'm  out . 

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Over winter Ive been on the look out for a new carb, the one I had was an aircraft one. Anyway eventually one popped up and was not too expensive so grabbed it. I also got a new old set of rear dampers and their respective mount. So all added and fired the old girl up for her first mini run this year, Ive got to say the sound is so much better in person, it really bubbles and borbles away at idle very very nice :) Looking forward to lockdown ending and getting out to the Heli club and giving her  proper run.  No body this time, purely because it wont fit over the new Shock mount, need to cut it back a bit - which is a real pain with the muffler mounted.

Any way not much to see but a lovely old Mardave running around a small patch of garden - whats not to like!

Couple of picks

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Nice Car Carb. Now I have a throttle stop screw I can think about adding some brakes!

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37 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:

Looks ACE mate .

Thanks Chap, very pleased I got one of these.

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Looking all grown up and “proper nitro” with her new spring set throttle linkage. All ready for the new braking system once I can work out how best to shoehorn it in.

 

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If you want any help with the brake I'll offer what help I can about how I built mine :)

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1 hour ago, KEV THE REV said:

If you want any help with the brake I'll offer what help I can about how I built mine :)

Thanks Kev, your images above are missing for me and I liked your set up. That said it will probably be a few weeks, I just want to go play for now :-)

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Awesome - have fun - I know you will . I need to get some fumes now the weather is improving ;)

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Hi Guys, Looking for some advice. So about 36 years ago my Dad bought a Mardave Marauder for me because he was flying I.C. engine R/C planes at the time (I on the other hand had my eye on a 1/10th Tamiya Pajero!). We were living in South Africa at the time but shortly after moved back to Ireland. The Mardave was built but after several excruciating attempts to start with a bicycle (up turned) we never got it running. Last week my Dad handed the car back to me (which has been on the shelf for the last 36 years!) and said I should try to get it running. I know this will probably raise eyebrows but I was wondering if it is possible to fit a modern pull start IC engine in place of the Irvine ABC that I have. I'm more into electric R/C cars and don't want to go to massive bother kitting out for a friction start box, etc.. 

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I am sure you’ll get good advice from Kev. The stock configuration does not allow for a pull start, there is not enough clearance between the back plate of the motor and the radio box. However you could remove the radio box and reorganise the steering servo to give you the clearance for a generic pull start. 
 

It would take some thought and a little effort. Me personally I just use a bump box.

Before all that I would check the engine is stil ok. If it’s been sat with nitro or old after run oil for the past 30odd years it may not be possible to start. The issues would be…. if the piston was left at top dead center and is seized then you won’t get compression. If nitro fuel was left in the engine it attracts water and hence the bearings may be rusted to bits which on start will immediately kill the engine. Additional rust issues for the same reason can cause irreparable damage such as the con rod rusted to the piston pin.

Good luck and ask any/all questions.

######

IMO nitro vs electric.
 

Nitro is about owning and maintaining an engine  in addition to the car/heli/plane/boat.

Electric is just about maintaining the car/heli/plane/boat.

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