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Danmurphy1978

Top Force drivetrain

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Hi All,

I have a re-release top force that I am racing at our local club on astro turf. I've stripped the teeth off the rear outdrive and metal diff parts after about a dozen runs with it. I'm running a 13.5T brushless motor, so reasonably tame for today's standards, but obviously a reasonable amount of torque for the Top Force. I've been researching the TA03 ball diffs and was trying to find out if these come with the machined metal parts rather than the cast standard parts included with the kit? Do the splines on these machined parts hold up better than the kit ones, or am I best just using a less powerful motor if I want to race it regularly?

I've always been told never to let a ball diff slip, but I've read a few comments about people saying the ball diff allows some give in the transmission since there is no slipper clutch. Are we saying it can run slightly loose, at the detriment of quicker wear to the balls and plates, which would allow less strain on the metal drive parts?

Post build pic attached!:)

IMG_4222.jpg

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if your running on high bite,  you would need some form of slipper,  as its not an option part on the t/f, ball diffs are a must, and running slightly loose give the transmission a little bit of give.

id get you hands on a pair of ball diffs asap

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8 hours ago, Danmurphy1978 said:

I've stripped the teeth off the rear outdrive and metal diff parts after about a dozen runs with it.

This happens because the outdrives can shift outwards reducing the contact area on the splines - and then they strip. 
 

no slipper or diff will prevent that so a solution to keep the outdrives in place is required - some people glue them in iirc.

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12 hours ago, Danmurphy1978 said:

Hi All,

I have a re-release top force that I am racing at our local club on astro turf. I've stripped the teeth off the rear outdrive and metal diff parts after about a dozen runs with it. I'm running a 13.5T brushless motor, so reasonably tame for today's standards, but obviously a reasonable amount of torque for the Top Force. I've been researching the TA03 ball diffs and was trying to find out if these come with the machined metal parts rather than the cast standard parts included with the kit? Do the splines on these machined parts hold up better than the kit ones, or am I best just using a less powerful motor if I want to race it regularly?

I've always been told never to let a ball diff slip, but I've read a few comments about people saying the ball diff allows some give in the transmission since there is no slipper clutch. Are we saying it can run slightly loose, at the detriment of quicker wear to the balls and plates, which would allow less strain on the metal drive parts?

Post build pic attached!:)

IMG_4222.jpg

You need to superglue or threadlock the outdrives into the diff housing. The top force outdrives don't have alot of purchase in the diff so can come out slightly and this strips the splines. We have ours superglued and run a 10.5 brushless and it is holding up no problem

 

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10 hours ago, catman79 said:

if your running on high bite,  you would need some form of slipper,  as its not an option part on the t/f, ball diffs are a must, and running slightly loose give the transmission a little bit of give.

id get you hands on a pair of ball diffs asap

The t/f has ball diffs as standard

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Thanks for all the info. I have a replacement diff coming for the rear so will try gluing the outdrives in. Are you applying glue to the hole that the pairing outdrives sits in, or straight onto the teeth?

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the TA03 diffs are a definite upgrade and do have the hardened drives afaik, i used ag threadock to stick the outdrives in an had no issues.  i'd also recommend sanding the diff plates as it's the only give you have in the drivetrain so you want them working 100%

 

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14 minutes ago, matisse said:

the TA03 diffs are a definite upgrade and do have the hardened drives afaik, i used ag threadock to stick the outdrives in an had no issues.  i'd also recommend sanding the diff plates as it's the only give you have in the drivetrain so you want them working 100%

 

Thanks. Is this Matt North? Used to race micro buggies a few years back? 
I sanded the diff plates and the diffs are working great, just need to hold the outdrives in I think. Do I thread lock on the splines? Wouldn’t this work loose over time?

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21 hours ago, Danmurphy1978 said:

Thanks. Is this Matt North? Used to race micro buggies a few years back? 
I sanded the diff plates and the diffs are working great, just need to hold the outdrives in I think. Do I thread lock on the splines? Wouldn’t this work loose over time?

Hey 👋 yeah it’s me, actually waiting for cml to get delivery of my new micro as the scene is starting up again, hoping to have nationals in a year or two.

 

i found that the thread lock was fine, enough help lock it in place, but super glue would be stronger 

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On 8/15/2020 at 7:23 AM, Danmurphy1978 said:

Thanks for all the info. I have a replacement diff coming for the rear so will try gluing the outdrives in. Are you applying glue to the hole that the pairing outdrives sits in, or straight onto the teeth?

Considering that the two outdrives move independently of one another, gluing them together via the hole in the centre would be a bad idea. It would essentially create a locked diff (if the glue held up).

The glue should be applied to the splined hole, as the outdrive and outer diff plate should behave as a single component during correct operation of a differential. 

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12 minutes ago, rich_f said:

Considering that the two outdrives move independently of one another, gluing them together via the hole in the centre would be a bad idea. It would essentially create a locked diff (if the glue held up).

The glue should be applied to the splined hole, as the outdrive and outer diff plate should behave as a single component during correct operation of a differential. 

Good point, I hadn’t considered that before I wrote that post! 😂

 

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