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LiPo Battary Help and Advice

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 So I have been thinking for a while now about moving on to LiPo battery packs but its like a mind field, so many options. I would love some advice on what is best for me and what I need to look out for. After getting some great advice on ESC's, I think this is the best site for this.

I have so many question and any help would be great, thanks guys.

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Not sure where to start. You will certainly need a charger that is capable of balance charging LiPo. Even better would be a charger that also has a storage charge mode for when you won't be using the batteries for more than a handful of days. I would also suggest you only use the batteries in vehicles with some sort of battery alarm/cutoff. Most modern ESC's have this feature, not Tamiya ESC's though unfortunately. I can assume you would want 2S (7.4 volt) to use in place of typical stick packs. I would look for a capacity above 4000mah and a discharge rate of at a minimum 20C. That would be adequate for any stock Tamiya vehicle. You will have to look around for certain packs that will fit the oval shaped battery holders of most Tamiya cars. Most LiPo packs are rectangular of course. Just remember, like most anything, you get what you pay for and batteries are not a good place to cheap out.

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I think it's easier to find a charger first.  When there is a mind-field, the best approach is digging out one mine at a time.  

Most chargers do fine, but SkyRC iMax B6 kinda set the standard for modern chargers.  There are two kinds, one with power supply, one without.  Just like a computer, these things will need AC current to be converted to DC.  

After that, the most relevant things about the batteries are; 

1) Amp hours.  4000mAh will last twice as long as 2000mAh.  Usually the larger the better, because LiPo batteries die when you drain completely.  It won't charge well.  Roughly speaking, you don't want to go below 20% (that applies to your cell phones and iPads too).  Larger capacity gives you more safety margin.  

2) Size.  LiPos come in so many different sizes.  Back in the days, NiMH or NiCd all used sub-C cells.  For LiPo, you need to check the size.  

3) Connector.  If you are willing to solder this isn't a problem.  But if you don't solder, then you'll have to find a connector that works with your ESC.  (generally speaking, Tamiya connector is no good.  Which might force you to learn how to solder.  Tamiya connector was designed for 1Amp draw. But many upgraded motors will draw more than that. It will be fine if you are using the silver can. But you don't really need LiPos in that case)  

4) C rating. This is how much energy the battery can squeeze out in given time.  Think of it as opening the floodgate to the max.  Small batteries for micro cars can't supply 10 Amp.  For the most part, though, most cars would draw 2-5 amps burst. Most RC car sized LiPos can do more than that, so that's why this is not the concern #1.  

 

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31 minutes ago, Otis311 said:

Not sure where to start. You will certainly need a charger that is capable of balance charging LiPo. Even better would be a charger that also has a storage charge mode for when you won't be using the batteries for more than a handful of days. I would also suggest you only use the batteries in vehicles with some sort of battery alarm/cutoff. Most modern ESC's have this feature, not Tamiya ESC's though unfortunately. I can assume you would want 2S (7.4 volt) to use in place of typical stick packs. I would look for a capacity above 4000mah and a discharge rate of at a minimum 20C. That would be adequate for any stock Tamiya vehicle. You will have to look around for certain packs that will fit the oval shaped battery holders of most Tamiya cars. Most LiPo packs are rectangular of course. Just remember, like most anything, you get what you pay for and batteries are not a good place to cheap out.

Okay Im running M07 and M08 both have Qicrun 10BL60ESC. 

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35 minutes ago, Juggular said:

I think it's easier to find a charger first.  When there is a mind-field, the best approach is digging out one mine at a time.  

Most chargers do fine, but SkyRC iMax B6 kinda set the standard for modern chargers.  There are two kinds, one with power supply, one without.  Just like a computer, these things will need AC current to be converted to DC.  

After that, the most relevant things about the batteries are; 

1) Amp hours.  4000mAh will last twice as long as 2000mAh.  Usually the larger the better, because LiPo batteries die when you drain completely.  It won't charge well.  Roughly speaking, you don't want to go below 20% (that applies to your cell phones and iPads too).  Larger capacity gives you more safety margin.  

2) Size.  LiPos come in so many different sizes.  Back in the days, NiMH or NiCd all used sub-C cells.  For LiPo, you need to check the size.  

3) Connector.  If you are willing to solder this isn't a problem.  But if you don't solder, then you'll have to find a connector that works with your ESC.  (generally speaking, Tamiya connector is no good.  Which might force you to learn how to solder.  Tamiya connector was designed for 1Amp draw. But many upgraded motors will draw more than that. It will be fine if you are using the silver can. But you don't really need LiPos in that case)  

4) C rating. This is how much energy the battery can squeeze out in given time.  Think of it as opening the floodgate to the max.  Small batteries for micro cars can't supply 10 Amp.  For the most part, though, most cars would draw 2-5 amps burst. Most RC car sized LiPos can do more than that, so that's why this is not the concern #1.  

 

My Esc is a quicrun 10BL60 with deans connections will be fine or would bullet connections  be better?

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I have an older Hyperion 720i Duo charger from back when I was doing aerial drone photography. Probably overkill for most hobbyists, but it definitely gets the job done.

As for batteries, I found some decent reviews on YouTube for the 4000 mah GartPot LiPos on AliExpress, and ordered a couple. They come with Deans connectors and seem to fit Tamiya battery trays, and they're pretty fairly priced.

I should have them here in about 10 days and can test the fit on my Monster Beetle chassis.

FWIW, I'm running the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 ESC with a stock silver can and Futaba 3PV.

gartpot.jpg

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For an introduction, this page is the best I've found, bit of a long read ,but everything you need to know.

 

https://rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/

 

As above, a decent charger ,purchased from a reputable supplier (ie, not eBay or Amazon!, then you know you're getting the real deal, and back up if there's issues). The Imax B6 used to be the goto charger, but it's been cloned to death, and there's better chargers for similar money now.

Something like this, is the newer version of the B6, charge from a household plug socket, or from a 12v car battery, if you're out and about, and will charge upto 8A (8000mah), plus balance charge ,storage charge etc etc

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/skyrc-e680-ac-dc-80w-charger/rc-car-products/440716

 

A charge bag is a must when charging (you'll read about that in the link), but again, none of the ones for 99p on eBay.

 

Lipos, depends what your plans are tbh, if it's one the same as a 7.2v nimh, then these fit (but not tried them all so maybe more do)

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-4000mahr-7-4v-30-60c-2s-lipo/rc-car-products/388538 

 Esc's  - (I know you've said you're ok, but) For a brushed motor, the hobbywing 1060 is the goto esc, it'll run down to a 12t motor , has a 2 stage Lipo cut off (goes half speed close to cut off, before completely cutting off). Imo, just not worth the hassle with the tamiya tble02s and plug in alarms.

For brushless,  the hobbywing 10bl60 (60amp)  or the 10bl120 (120 amp) are the goto imo, the 60 amp is only a few quid cheaper, but is a slightly smaller size, so if youve the space, go for a 10bl120. They are programmable, and  They'll run sensored or sensorless, any wind down to 3.5t! 🤷‍♂️

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Im running 10bl60 60amp in the M08 and a max 10 in the M07 but soon to be the same as the M08. the max 10 will be going into my M05

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5 hours ago, justsomedude said:

I have an older Hyperion 720i Duo charger from back when I was doing aerial drone photography. Probably overkill for most hobbyists, but it definitely gets the job done.

As for batteries, I found some decent reviews on YouTube for the 4000 mah GartPot LiPos on AliExpress, and ordered a couple. They come with Deans connectors and seem to fit Tamiya battery trays, and they're pretty fairly priced.

I should have them here in about 10 days and can test the fit on my Monster Beetle chassis.

FWIW, I'm running the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 ESC with a stock silver can and Futaba 3PV.

gartpot.jpg

I have  this and I can confirm that it is a perfect fit for most Tamiya's... the size and dimensions are just like a regular NiMH stick pack... 

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16 hours ago, DayRider said:

My Esc is a quicrun 10BL60 with deans connections will be fine or would bullet connections  be better?

Deans connectors are perfectly fine for LiPo. All my LiPo batteries escs have deans.

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18 hours ago, DayRider said:

Okay Im running M07 and M08 both have Qicrun 10BL60ESC. 

M07 and M08 both use "square" packs and I would use those rather than rounded packs - you have more choice and will get better bang for your buck.

I would get from a UK shop personally rather than buying from the other side of the world. 

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On 8/15/2020 at 12:12 PM, DeadMeat666 said:

Deans connectors are perfectly fine for LiPo. All my LiPo batteries escs have deans.

just one more thing you could clear up for me. all the LiPo batteries I'm looking at have a little white connection on them, what are they used for? Just a stab in the dark, but is it for charging them?

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4 minutes ago, DayRider said:

just one more thing you could clear up for me. all the LiPo batteries I'm looking at have a little white connection on them, what are they used for? Just a stab in the dark, but is it for charging them?

That is for balance charging.

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1 minute ago, Biz73 said:

That is for balance charging.

nice one mate. It did have me a bit confused, I thought I might of needed to get the soldering iron out. I hate going near an ESC with an iron.

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Can someone please let me know if I have got this right? I have a 5000mAh 2s 7.4v battery so I  the charge at 5.0A

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3 hours ago, DayRider said:

Can someone please let me know if I have got this right? I have a 5000mAh 2s 7.4v battery so I  the charge at 5.0A

Yep, that's 1C, (balance charge though)

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32 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:

Yep, that's 1C, (balance charge though)

Nice one mate was having thoughts of it setting fire to my house after hearing stories.

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6 hours ago, DayRider said:

Nice one mate was having thoughts of it setting fire to my house after hearing stories.

Don't leave unattended, always keep an eye on them, when charging anyway.

 

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