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Posted

I tinkered a little bit more with the suspension. Straight arms leave hardly any space to the rocker. I sourced angled adjusters and tried them today. I like them! Together with 3x23 turnbuckles you need these adjusters to make it work:

11f68a3f-2bfd-4dd7-aasjj6.jpeg

 

And then it looks like this:

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This little conversion also looks good with body on as the two blue colors compliment each other:

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Today I also installed proper cardans and the TRF420 hubs in the rear.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 2
Posted
1 hour ago, wtcc5 said:

I tinkered a little bit more with the suspension. Straight arms leave hardly any space to the rocker. I sourced angled adjusters and tried them today. I like them! Together with 3x23 turnbuckles you need these adjusters to make it work:

11f68a3f-2bfd-4dd7-aasjj6.jpeg

 

And then it looks like this:

379d34f3-1d99-426e-bw6jdo.jpeg

d55deaf4-e3c4-4486-95sk4z.jpeg

69201250-bef6-4895-aeek7b.jpeg

18e59256-c58e-465d-aotkp3.jpeg

d30fa176-194d-445b-a36k95.jpeg

 

This little conversion also looks good with body on as the two blue colors compliment each other:

6fb177cb-836f-448e-b8jk4t.jpeg

1545ef13-6896-4cfd-b30k43.jpeg

fb75b632-80a9-4347-boak25.jpeg

a4b17706-f08b-4372-9whj8f.jpeg

 

Today I also installed proper cardans and the TRF420 hubs in the rear.

 

 

 

 

 

Freakin awesome Kevin! Must be the most tuned TC01 already!

How did you mount the 420 knuckle in the rear, regarding the toe link? Was it already intended for active rear toe?

Kind regards,

Matthias

  • Like 3
Posted

I like the design of the chassis, it is on my list of cars I need to own. You have done a good job of making it look tidy, i definitely dont like the amount of body parts to put together though.

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, ruebiracer said:

Freakin awesome Kevin! Must be the most tuned TC01 already!

How did you mount the 420 knuckle in the rear, regarding the toe link? Was it already intended for active rear toe?

Kind regards,

Matthias

Yes it is.

Right now, I just used the same measurements as Tamiya does. If you keep the length of the camber links the same (50,6mm), then you get the stock angles.

In the coming days I try to implement the SSBB dampers and then I will make a starting setup.

  • Like 3
Posted

@wtcc5 Kevin, you've made awesome even better!!!  I hate to drool so much, but it's SO impressive. That perfect triangulated upper Arm gives almost infinite Camber AND Caster adjustments!!! 

Do they make those for OTHER kits??? (TT-01, TT-02, TA, TB)????

Posted

In most TCs this camberlink setup is not possible through the shocktower/damper/steering arms being in the way and no other attachment points.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I finally found time to install the SSBB dampers with the titanium piston rods and make custom damper extenders from carbon tubes:

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These really change the look of the chassis and also feel much smoother. For springs we will maybe need to use third party products as Tamiyas spring rates for TCs are a little soft.

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  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Posted

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You can guess what comes next 😅

I will do a lot of CAD work in the next weeks and show screenshots here. For the moment I want my carbon chassis conversion be more customer friendly. So it should be able to use the standard suspension parts and I am taking the given locations for the suspension. I cannot guarantee for more, but it will be not KRv3 radical.

 

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Long story short I have been out of the rc game for a while and sold all my stuff.  I am getting back into it with this car.  I can see the aftermarket coming up with lots of hop-ups for this one like they did for the old f201.  Wtcc05 nice build so far. And the body took me about 3 hours to cut out alone way to complicated they need it to be pre cut.  I have a question has anyone tried to fit any of the f1 body's from the f103 chassis yet? And or maybe the wheel and tires from them or the f201? 

I am excited to see what chassis design you come up with.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Slowly making progress. The first step is now to build and position all the parts I will not replace, to make sure there will be no collisions and the function is guaranteed.

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  • Like 4
Posted
6 hours ago, black_gtx said:

Long story short I have been out of the rc game for a while and sold all my stuff.  I am getting back into it with this car.  I can see the aftermarket coming up with lots of hop-ups for this one like they did for the old f201.  Wtcc05 nice build so far. And the body took me about 3 hours to cut out alone way to complicated they need it to be pre cut.  I have a question has anyone tried to fit any of the f1 body's from the f103 chassis yet? And or maybe the wheel and tires from them or the f201? 

I am excited to see what chassis design you come up with.

 

Thanks ;)

Wheels and tires of the F201 should be no problem. The bodies of  F102/F103/F104 and F201 will not fit properly (= hidden chassis and dampers) as the TC-01 is just too wide in the front area...

Posted

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Better progress than expected today ^_^

I could benefit from my work for the KR-MF, still Tamiya makes the arms, for example, incredible complex in detail...

Posted

I forgot how narrow the front of the f1 bodies are. A normal f1 body for it would be nice also but oh well.

 Any good recommendations on a tamiya or other brushless system that fits? I don't plan on racing it completely just parking lot fun so no turn limit.

Also what is a good low profile servo and metal arm to use now a days? 

Sorry for the rookie questions its been about 5 years since I last messed with rc and things seem to have changed a lot. 

Posted
2 hours ago, black_gtx said:

I forgot how narrow the front of the f1 bodies are. A normal f1 body for it would be nice also but oh well.

 Any good recommendations on a tamiya or other brushless system that fits? I don't plan on racing it completely just parking lot fun so no turn limit.

Also what is a good low profile servo and metal arm to use now a days? 

Sorry for the rookie questions its been about 5 years since I last messed with rc and things seem to have changed a lot. 

The TC01 can also fit regular touring car bodies and the TS050 lemans style bodies from the F103GT. 

Given how quick my racecars are i would suggest nothing more than a 17.5 brushless and get some replacement non-tamiya spur and pinion gears in 48dp or 64dp (doesn't matter which, go with what is easiest to get for you) and gear it for around 4.4FDR. You will get tonnes of runtime and it will be plenty fast enough. A hobbywing justock combi is an easy place to start, but a hobbywing 10bl120 esc is similar price and will give you boost and timing options if you want them. 

  • Like 2
Posted

 

 

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I tinkered around with the chassisplate design. And it looks like vertical topdecks will save a lot of trouble and still be fairly low placed in the car. The lower deck could become narrow. 60mm is possible. The design shown is just for the concept. I will work on the bulkheads next.

  • Like 4
Posted

😴 

 

 


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It is not easy to compare the chassis with the TC world out there. Unfortunately the suspension makes the car very narrow, so that it achieves 180mm width with 2mm offset wheels. Typical Tamiya...

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I finally will have a day with the car next weekend. RtR my car weights 1378g.
Today I made special battery holders to keep the 1/12 sized lipo in place. For the gearing I chose 82/46 (64dp). This way I get the motor a close to the middle axle as possible and have a good gear ratio for my 17.5t motor.

With a ride height of 5.5mm the car looks a little offroad :sweat:

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I know, I know, dish wheels look horrible on it. To get a feel for the performance it makes more sense to use performance tires, than drifting around...

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Posted

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Just an update where my TC-01 conversion is heading: Right now the motor mount is like a wall in the chassis and blocks an elegant topdeck solution. As it is attached in the centerline, why not use it to attach the topdecks there. Four plates, two front and two rear, will connect the ends of the chassis with the motormount, with the shocks in between. These are angled to locate lower in the chassis. The COG is significant lower in my concept compared to the stock chassis.

  • Like 1
Posted

bildschirmfoto2020-09k9j8s.png

Just an update where my TC-01 conversion is heading: Right now the motor mount is like a wall in the chassis and blocks an elegant topdeck solution. As it is attached in the centerline, why not use it to attach the topdecks there. Four plates, two front and two rear, will connect the ends of the chassis with the motormount, with the shocks in between. These are angled to locate lower in the chassis. The COG is significant lower in my concept compared to the stock chassis.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

.... I know I'm beginning to sound like a Fanboy here! 😜 

I'm just absolutely amazed at how you've taken a BRAND NEW Chassis, not really proven by the masses yet.....  And decided to reengineer it!!!! 😲😳😎 

I wish I had the ability, because I sure have always had the desire. I've Built Kits almost exclusively since 1984.  I can count on one hand, how many I've actually built STOCK!!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hello Kevin great work so far,

I am just sitting on my TC-01 build and I am wondering how you made these Double joint cardans fit. I have the 42mm ones based on 42216 for the TRF417 and these are a about a mm to long. Same for the normal cardans in the back, just missing 1 mm. In the back, I can go with 39mm ones but I don’t have any idea for the front. 
What’s your trick?

Thanks, Kai. 

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, kaile said:

Hello Kevin great work so far,

I am just sitting on my TC-01 build and I am wondering how you made these Double joint cardans fit. I have the 42mm ones based on 42216 for the TRF417 and these are a about a mm to long. Same for the normal cardans in the back, just missing 1 mm. In the back, I can go with 39mm ones but I don’t have any idea for the front. 
What’s your trick?

Thanks, Kai. 

Did you fit a 3mm thick bearing on the inside of the hub. When i did DCJ on my FF03 i had to swap the kit 5x10x4 bearing for a 5x10x3.

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