Building Wrenchdogs midmotor Dyna Storm

[ruebiracer 1046]

On 8/31/2020 at 7:40 PM, Collin said:

About the HPI shafts, you did not used any spacer to eleminaze play. 

Also you fitted them the other way around like I did. Probably you cant disassemble rear suspension arms quickley later then because shafts wouldnt go out to the front direction. 

For next steps at rear suspension. used spacers to bring the rear hubs a little more to the front to have a propper position of the CVDs. I sent you different sizes of this plastic spacers. Original are same size on both sides of the hub. Mid DS needs bigger one to the rear and smaller one to the front. Mention rims does not grind against susp. arms when you push suspension up and down. 

You are right Tom, maintenancewise I should have turned them around. Actually I could have used the kit suspension shafts, too. I didn´t need to shim anything, as the suspension mounts are clamped between the wishbone. No slop at all. So I found it useles to shim the axles furthermore. My thought about the fixed end in front was, that in case of a crash the alu brace would not pop off the E-rings at this end in case of a bad impact. (normally the brace sits within the wishbone)...

But we´ll see, probably would have worked the other way, too!

[ruebiracer 1046]

Visited my dad this week, so I had to go to his hobby lathe and test my little Spur gear idea.

Didn´t have the right cutting tool do make a defined edge as on the original spur gear, but finally a came to a result, that is somehow usable (although I would like to have the gear mesh a little more constant. But I present 28/120Z giving 8.57 : 1 gear ratio:

The spur gear I used is the one a guy in JApan used for a modern slipper in A Dyna, it´s a 120Z TA04 spur gear. I found it perfect, as it is made from GF rinforced material and only has holes in the middle section, where it anyway has to be cutout. I did it with a handsaw, sandpaper, just hand tools:

 

[ruebiracer 1046]

To test everything and my possible electronics installation, I put a Brushless motor in and a TBLE02S. The motor is for my next Monster beetle project, but I have also a 13,5t in my mind, with a little "neo Vintage" appeal. TBLE02S I had lying around, since last year I´m quite impressed of it in Brushless mode, nice ESC with a little box art appeal. For a 13,5t motor and a reasonable gearing, I had no problems on a hot day running this combo in my Vanquish and Avante 2001 on a track and grass. So should also be o.k. for 2WD.

Then I took my time and cutout the shell, this took longer than expected, as you do not have any markings or hints to use:

Needs some sanding and fine cut, but looks promising to me.

I also cutout the vent on the sidepod to get a little airflow to the ESC. Seems not a big effect, but helped me on my old Dyna in the nineties to cool down my Novak brushed ESC slightly. So I just did it:

 

[ruebiracer 1046]

Checked also the battery clamp and made a little advertising for Tom aka "wrenchdog" for his awesome work!

I wanted to donor him a set of the grey ball adjusters for his Dyna, which I found in my parts from the nineties, but instead of taking it as a donor, he send me this:

 Oh yeah! It´s the new wrenchdog bulkhead from his new carbon reinforced filament! So I can take Tom´s advice and save the original bulkhead as spare part!

So cool! The bushings pop again in nicely, so I had to mount the carbon shock tower for a little dreaming:

[ruebiracer 1046]

And as you can see, I also continued on the rear axle to check the wheelbase and the driveshaft angle. With Tom´s assymetric spacers and an additional washer I was slop free and the driveshafts are almost 90°, couldn´t have worked better!

Just a little spacer problem I was not aware of:

This is the reason:

So I don´t want to cut the FRP reinforcing plate in the kit just to male a spacer for the shock tower. Hand tools have to be digged out again.

But installation of shock tower was big fun, Tom also did some countersunks for the press nuts, so it was just plug and play again:

After mounting the dogbones and camber links, I ended up with a nice rear view this evening:

Hope you like it,

Matthias

[Collin 1956]

Nice, nice, nice... 

How about the gearcover now? Does it have enough clearence inside? 

The position of CVDs, the angle should not be 90deg, just a little less pointing forward. Its because of rotation dynamic and bringing force to the ground. This is why rear hubs are asymmetric shimmed. 

About the shocktower. I did not had the gap in my mind. Chech the TR-15T manual, there is a spacer. For me its obvious that I did not mention it. Will cut some of them from carbonfiber-sheet next time. 

[ruebiracer 1046]

1 hour ago, Collin said:

Nice, nice, nice... 

How about the gearcover now? Does it have enough clearence inside? 

The position of CVDs, the angle should not be 90deg, just a little less pointing forward. Its because of rotation dynamic and bringing force to the ground. This is why rear hubs are asymmetric shimmed. 

About the shocktower. I did not had the gap in my mind. Chech the TR-15T manual, there is a spacer. For me its obvious that I did not mention it. Will cot some of them from carbonfiber-sheet next time. 

Hi Tom, didn´t check so far with the original spur again, but with the 120Z it´s for sure free. (but will check again for the promised feedback)

Good advice for the angle and the rotation dynamics. Did not think about that, but with the suspension mounts and the built in Anti dive/kickup there is then a small force pressing the suspension to the ground, when going full throttle.

Yes for the spacer, for sure you forgot about it, as you are so deep in the TR15T. It´s the spacer in the F-parts tree, but that is quite expensive on ebay. So a self made spacer has to do the trick!

Kind regards,

Matthias

 

[Collin 1956]

Position of the suspension mounts where tricky. Thanks to @Origineelreclamebord who shared his knowledge. 

Pauls advice was to place the CVDs with a light angle to the front. Spinning kardans always want to become straight and with this positio you gain force pushing tires to the ground. At least this is how I understood. 

But at the end there is not much space, you noticed how close the gearcover comes with front suspension mount screw. So the idear with different spacer for the rear hubs came up. So many little details no one notice at the end. 

You will get a nice spacer made of carbonfiber once I do new parts. 

[wtcc5 4896]

On 9/2/2020 at 8:57 PM, ruebiracer said:

Checked also the battery clamp and made a little advertising for Tom aka "wrenchdog" for his awesome work!

I wanted to donor him a set of the grey ball adjusters for his Dyna, which I found in my parts from the nineties, but instead of taking it as a donor, he send me this:

 Oh yeah! It´s the new wrenchdog bulkhead from his new carbon reinforced filament! So I can take Tom´s advice and save the original bulkhead as spare part!

So cool! The bushings pop again in nicely, so I had to mount the carbon shock tower for a little dreaming:

Anyone here know a source to get these dampermount-nuts on the shocktower?

[Collin 1956]

I dont know any partsbag containing them. 

[ruebiracer 1046]

21 hours ago, wtcc5 said:

Anyone here know a source to get these dampermount-nuts on the shocktower?

Hi Kevin,

unfortunately this accessory for the Hicaps is hard to get nowadays. I´m not sure, but on the short/short set for the Topforce it must have been included lately, if Tamiya stayed history correct. In the Mini set for the Avante, the older style spacers were included. I don´t have any spare ones I could give you.

But with the next rerelease of the Hicaps for the VQS probably spacers will come, but I expect the older ones to be included...

Sad times, somehow you get spareparts for the Rere´s, but some special ones not at all...

[ruebiracer 1046]

In the meantime,

I made a up the missing spacer from 2mm black FRP, it did the trick for the moment:

After fixing the shock tower, I couldn´t resist to mount my pink Vintage Acto Power 2WD, o.k., Neo Vintage.

 

[ruebiracer 1046]

I also started the steering assembly. In the rere kit, everything is ballraced compared to the original release.

I have to say, it´s very precise and better than some steerings Tamiya did nowadays...

[ruebiracer 1046]

Finally, I can show some progress on one of my favorite projects, ah what, of my favorite project again:

Tom send me a new version of his bulkhead, as I was a little bit stupid and wrecked the first version during the build! Still sorry Tom!

It went in flawlessly, and the screws went in tight, but not too tight this time. (Tom prepared it for me, and test screwed it).

That brought me to the final assembly of the chassis, and I already sorted out my electronic setup, needed also a sensor wire in a short length for my Brushless motor. On the TBLE02S I had to extend the battery wires slightly, which I hided under a wire protection. Thought it was a good idea, as the wires come in contact with the carbon upper deck. The motor wires I shortened with a little reserve in length, you never know.

[ruebiracer 1046]

The Receiver cable runs under the motor to the opposite chassis side. Just need to solder some 5mm plugs for my shorty on, and soldering is complete. Tom did a great job, the body covers everything nicely, but there is really not much space left on some areas. So cool:

For the moment I clamped the on/off switch between the motor plate and the rear shock tower brace, so the assembly hole in the motor plate is covered against dirt intrusion. For switching the car on, you can reach with the finger through the rear shock tower hole. Should be o.k. for the first runs:

Next steps: Finding a servo and receiver for it.

Probably the best thing: Assemble the famous sleeved dampers with the special springs for shifted weight distribution.

Decide on wheels choice and prepare the body for painting, no excuses anymore.

At least I can say that it will get star dish wheels and the original tires for the start.

Have a nice Sunday evening everyone,

Matthias

[Collin 1956]

Dont forget the M3 nyloc nut at the left connector 

About the on/off switch, I cable-tied it to the opposite side, the gearbox brace. Its funny to dig around with your finger to find the switch  hrhrhrhr.
I made the next version of the motor plate today and it will not have this hole anymore. The gearbox/shocktower-link screw is flipped now and you can screw it from the left side. The hole is still from TR-15T design where you cant reach the screw because of the exhaust. Anyway, you have MK1 #2. MK2 will have very small differences, but nothing what affects the whole thing at all.

Looks like you have noticed how tight it is under the shell, especially around the thumb nuts for the battery brace. Its all about split mm and it cost me some braincells and beer to find the sweet spot where everything fits well. But you should attach some metal tape inside the shell where the threads for the battery-brace are cloese too. Just to be save.

So nice to see your mint Mid conversion with all the original parts. Love it! 

[KEV THE REV 2319]

Awesome work you guys !!

[ruebiracer 1046]

8 hours ago, Collin said:

Dont forget the M3 nyloc nut at the left connector 

About the on/off switch, I cable-tied it to the opposite side, the gearbox brace. Its funny to dig around with your finger to find the switch  hrhrhrhr.
I made the next version of the motor plate today and it will not have this hole anymore. The gearbox/shocktower-link screw is flipped now and you can screw it from the left side. The hole is still from TR-15T design where you cant reach the screw because of the exhaust. Anyway, you have MK1 #2. MK2 will have very small differences, but nothing what affects the whole thing at all.

Looks like you have noticed how tight it is under the shell, especially around the thumb nuts for the battery brace. Its all about split mm and it cost me some braincells and beer to find the sweet spot where everything fits well. But you should attach some metal tape inside the shell where the threads for the battery-brace are cloese too. Just to be save.

So nice to see your mint Mid conversion with all the original parts. Love it! 

You got me Tom,

couldn´t find an additional nyloc nut yesterday, but I have a new package somewhere. Have counted them and already sorted the 4 out for the dampers. Somehow I also lost some 3x12mm metric screws, that I needed to take from the spares box.

It looks really mint, for sure this will be driven with care and not do silly stunts. Also I plan to use a foil protection underneath your gorgeous carbon chassis.

[Collin 1956]

Id also swap the bulkhead nuts for nyloc onec. Just to be save.

[ruebiracer 1046]

On it went yesterday, getting curious to drive it finally! One of the best parts started, assembling the famous "sleeved dampers", that are special to the Dynas.

@Juls1 described them already perfectly in his buggy damper thread,

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/89072-the-buggy-damper-thread/

but I wanted to show you my setup here, too:

As I built from a brand new kit, I had all the parts available. My plan to build a second set from still available Damper bodies was stopped for the moment by a tiny detail: I wanted to use rere Hicap piston rods, as the dyna piston rods are nearly impossible to come by. But that does not work. Hicap pistons are a tiny bit thinner than the Dyna special pistons, so that you cannot put the C-clip on above the piston.  Again something learned...

But doesn´t matter here. The unique sleeved piston is rounded nicely on the edges, which makes it even smooth, when the shock is trying to be bent by sideloads:

At first, I disassembled the prebuilt shock bodies and replaced the Tamiya orange O-rings with softer ones from Revolution racing, which are superior regarding friction whilst being very long lasting:

[ruebiracer 1046]

On the fronts you have to put a spacer for reduced length, and the manual recommends the 3 hole piston as setup, which I will follow for the first runs.

F

For assembling the O-rings, I tend to put the shaft first through the damper housing, and put the O-rings carefully on the piston rods, using a little damper grease. (I have some old MR33, but everyone uses other things, or just damper oil. As sealings in real dampers are also greased for run in, I always do it the same way on RC shocks, when a ssembling from totally new single parts. Background is, this way the risk of damaging the Orings is less, as they are not already compressed by the damper housing. When they are already on the smooth shaft, you can easily press them in by the rod guide and screw it down.

And what has to be not forgotten: The little plastic spacer for the rod guides! This is also on the Dyna special Y-parts tree and not included in the spare damper body ste. If you don´t have it don´t know about, you compress the O-rings way too much and end up with a lot of friction. It´s a strange design by Tamiya, but maybe they already had some adjustability in mind, as on the later aeration dampers, where you can adjust the compression of the O-rings with additional shims. Who knows!

As on Re-re Hicaps, the cap is not ventilated on the sleeved dampers. Makes sense, as they are Aeration style dampers. They press in the plastic sleeves into the shock body. The final sealing does the black O-ring on the outside shock body.

 

 

 

[ruebiracer 1046]

When filling them, you have to place one finger holding the sleeve, otherwise it will come up soaking your workstation with oil in the end.

I stayed with the 400 kit oil for the first tests, and also filled the ca. 1mm below the sleeve end amount of oil. I also screwed the cap on with fully extended piston rod, no special position to play with the rebound / return of the rod after compressing. Done!

The next special part, the spring seat with profile for the 3mm rod ends known mainly from Tamiya steering systems...

 

 

 

[Collin 1956]

Damper, check! What else is left? Servo. Paint. Tryres and rims. Go ooooon!

[ruebiracer 1046]

First finishing my posts for today, but can leak Tom, that I just adjusted the Servo and the ESC 5 minutes ago!

 

[ruebiracer 1046]

What´s needed else: A spring, and the special spring sleeve/seat, that is also known from the later Hicaps, as on the Top Force Evo. The spring is a little stiffer for the front and weaker at the rear, to compensate for the shifted axle weights. All tribute sourcing them out to @Collin aka Wrenchdog! 

At the front, the lower end isequipped with a ball sleeve, some clever choice here. You don´t have to pop it on/off everytime you want to disassemble the damper, just screw it off and e.g. change the spring...

Then the best moment: Fitting it on the sexy carbon shock tower:

I also like the fact, that the new springs are black, and giving just a different look on the blue dampers. Thanks Tom! They work buttersmooth, and I also assembled the rears acc. the manual, using the 1 hole pistons and 400 oil. From my feeling, the oil density could also get some adjusting on the new weights, but let´s see after the rollout, how the Super Dyna Storm is behaving. I just cannot wait until painting the body, I need to do some run in on grass in the garden, to get a feeling for the car. Ran my std. Dyna during the lockdown also in the garden, so I´m keen to see the difference of the 2 brothers.

Have a nice Sunday everyone,

Matthias