Jump to content
RichieRich

Re-release Tamiya Bruiser and HG-P407

Recommended Posts

While stuck at home during these tough times, I bought a Tamiya Bruiser re-release and an HG-P407 to mess around with. I was really wanting to have a couple of trucks that can bomb around the garden. I figured I could use the HG-P407 to modify rather than making changes to the classic Tamiya.

I built the Bruiser first and as always with Tamiya kits, it went together smoothly. It's a completely stock build except I've added the Hot Racing ball bearing steering and AMPRO front wheel extenders. Everyone knows about the floppy steering with the Bruiser so most people move the steering servo to the front of the chassis. I kinda like the old school look of the "steering box" so that's why I added the Hot Racing steering. The AMPRO front wheel extenders extend the front track so that it matches the rear. I'm using a Tamiya Finespec TTU-09 4 channel radio to drive, steer and shift. Pretty much an all Tamiya build except for the Futaba servos.

I bought the white pre-built version of the HG-P407. Out of the box, the first thing I did was clean all the shock oil which had leaked out of the shocks. This required removing the wheels and tires. Here is where I first noticed that the hardware was extremely soft. I stripped the heads of two of the wheel screws and had to use a screw extractor. Make sure you have quality tools and that they are fully seated before messing with the hardware.

Everyone calls this truck the Bruiser clone. It's more of a fax of a Bruiser. It's easy to see the difference in quality between the Tamiya and the HG. As mentioned, the shocks are garbage. They look like the Tamiya versions but they only have one seal at the shock shaft and the top seal does not have a bleed screw. I basically emptied the shocks and removed the boots. At some point I will replace them with something that actually works. It may be a little difficult since any replacement will require a shock shaft with a longer threaded section.  Or maybe replacing the shock towers with a taller version that can accept shocks with eyelets on both ends? I added the Hot Racing ball bearing steering and AMPRO front wheel extenders too. I also replaced the steering servo and radio with the FlySky i6. The steering servo saver is also junk, so that was replaced with a Tamiya heavy duty version. Finally, I replaced all the bearings with some AVID rubber seals.

Whew! After all that was complete, I focused on the body. My intent was to decorate the body like the Tamiya Mountain Rider. After looking at vintage pictures of this Toyota body style, I started to like the 80s Toyota graphics. I painted the body Tamiya mica red, added the back panel to the truck and removed the chrome plating from all of the parts. The decals are a combination of Tamiya Mountain Rider and RC4WD Trail Finder sets. Lastly, I installed the Mountain Rider roll bar.

When I mounted the body, I realized the truck looked crooked. I figured out that the leaf springs had massive slop at the ends of the A springs. They do not properly wrap around the brass spacers that attach to the hangers. I removed those and replaced the A and B springs with Tamiya versions.

The pictures show where I'm at. Besides finding a suitable shock replacement, I have a small list of other modifications I’d like to add. Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions.

00000truck03.jpg

00000truck02.jpg

00000truck01.jpg

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Didn't know you could get track extenders for the front of the Bruiser.  VERY interested. Did you print them, or buy them online? I looked on Shapeways, and couldn't see anything: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/ampro?section=Tamiya+Hilux+Series&s=0

 

I am in the process of modding the suspension on my Bruiser to give it better travel and articulation.

I have fitted a Cantilever rear conversion, and am currently using Schumaccer CAT Long rear shocks or Tamiya Top Force shocks.

I had bought some Hobbytech remote Piggy Back shocks and they were let down by the hose, so returned them.

That needs some refinement as the tyres currently strike the pivot fittings and can lock the rear wheel

The front is severely limited by the shock lower mounts, and shock length.

The lower mounts need to be ball joints so that they can pivot as the axle rises. Without the shocks on, the travel is easily doubled i think. That then makes the front wheels strike the bodywork on compression.

There are other things you can do to assist the travel and articulation and reduce stress on the components. :ph34r:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, as I've fiddled around with the suspension, I've realized the shock solution is going to require some serious thinking as well as buying stuff and returning things that don't work. You're in the right place for the wheel spacers/track extenders. The ones that fit the re-release Bruiser are p/n 048006-01. The ones that fit the HG-P407 are p/n p40701-01.

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers @RichieRich. I am totally new to this 3D Printing malarkey. When i sign up, will they make it for me, and ship to me, or do I have to print it myself? 

Currently, i don't own a 3D printer, and can't think of someone with one.

I did a search for both parts out of curiosity as i thought both vehicles would be the same. The HG part came up as not found. I found it from the description though. They are quite different!

Luckily, mine is a Bruiser :)

 

I spent more time yesterday evening investigating the parts I have in the cantilever set I ordered, and how to improve upon them. Not got a final solution yet. Guess i had better start taking some pictures of the work I am doing too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m in the process of 4 linking my clone with traxxas trx4 portal axles. I’m doing a lot of head scratching. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, Butler said:

I’m in the process of 4 linking my clone with traxxas trx4 portal axles. I’m doing a lot of head scratching. 

Wow. Thats a big mod!

i have seen 4 link conversions using the Tamiya Axles. That looked complicated.

While doing a quick search for those, These came up in a search 

 

Remote locking diffs. Now there is an idea..... Didn't know you could get those. As I said, new to this crawler/scaler/truck stuff. Absolutely love my Bruiser 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im new to this stuff too.
I kept breaking the rear axle gears and bearings, so thought about selling it and getting a trx4, but I loved the truck. So decided on a hybrid.  I’m hoping to have remote locking diffs too. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, FoxShot said:

Cheers @RichieRich. I am totally new to this 3D Printing malarkey. When i sign up, will they make it for me, and ship to me, or do I have to print it myself? 

 

They print it and send it to you. It's like ordering parts from any other online shop. :) 

5 hours ago, Butler said:

Im new to this stuff too.
I kept breaking the rear axle gears and bearings, so thought about selling it and getting a trx4, but I loved the truck. So decided on a hybrid.  I’m hoping to have remote locking diffs too. 

I don't think the Bruiser and the HG P407 are really meant for tough crawling. But, yeah, an axle swap for strength is a good idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm thinking of buying two sets of the RC4WD Gelande shock hoops. The mounting holes are 22mm apart which means I think they can be mounted with minimal disruption to the chassis and allow for shocks with ball ends.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finally got the shock hoops. It looks like they will work. After some careful eyeballing...er...measuring, it looks like i need to source some 80mm shocks. I will post some pictures once I have something that looks presentable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's been gross outside due to the fires so I haven't been able to do much driving. But, I did manage to install the shock hoops, an el-cheap-o high torque servo and some knock-off shocks. Gotta keep with the clone theme here. :D The shocks are made by someone called "rc lion". They seem to be well built but I did disassemble them, used some green slime on the seals and filled with some silicone oil. I also removed the internal springs. I had to tilt the front hoops slightly forward to the right shock would clear the steering crank. I think it came out pretty nice.

shocks.jpg

shocks2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mines a general work in progress, loosely modelled on the Barry Crump/Scotty Hilux adverts we had in NZ in the 80s. Doing the Chino and piston mod this weekend, although my rear shock mod seems to have worked too, so I might just do the front as well and see how it holds up instead of modding the damper piston at this stage.

Will also replace the ESC this weekend as reverse is either on or off on the original, and I have some Austar 3021s coming today or tomorrow as well.

Might also apply some period stickers at some point, but wanting it to remain uncluttered.

119036169_10224368303301025_4506890139829300370_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=r2Z9o7WEStUAX82LWnC&_nc_ht=scontent-syd2-1.xx&oh=52a7c21a6c2787f0ab708a9404fc7c9a&oe=5F847D10

119171676_10224368302941016_9133778397119716895_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=SmXmkyYChvMAX8hjcuI&_nc_ht=scontent-syd2-1.xx&oh=fc8dbe25ac7b66f83cd3173fd062cc19&oe=5F856B07

119109989_10224368302621008_6603023476283051196_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=bopSwf6zZagAX9fFeXN&_nc_ht=scontent-syd2-1.xx&oh=aaf0e1a8a2d8d7cae897ebb2b72070a3&oe=5F86C569

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your truck looks fantastic! I love the color choice. Reminds me of the 70's MGB color called Harvest Gold.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mines slowly coming together. Few challenges still to fix. 

18F14A04-D2CC-4217-9091-6F980B248D64.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

TRX4. I’m hoping to get the remote lockers working too. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

she got a proper run down on a home made crawler course at a friends bach (holiday home to you foreigners), with log steps, a steep, maybe gradient, I would say more than 45deg, some step drops, stick traversing, and more to come. On the whole. I was pleased, both mine and my partners handled it well, mine more so due to increased ride height with the Austar 3021s, plus I've also done chino mod to rear springs as well as losing springs, still yet to do it on front. But both tackled the incline with relative ease, not saying it was easy, but with skilled controlled driving it gripped well. considering the surface was silt/sand/weed it had plenty to grip through, once we've killed the weeds that will change.

We both easily did 20 laps each, one tumble wumble each, nothing broken. The only issue is neither of us have 2 gear, just needs adjusting. My gear box sounds nicely greased, her's does not, but I will address that in the coming weeks, as well as modding the steering servo. The steering was our biggest problem, the slop and wobble and lack of response was the real only major problem, even the open diffs, whilst at times problematic, I was surprised at how capable it was, but when I do strip the gearboxes I will be locking the diffs.

Overall happy, no failures, good longevity on the battery (hers is a 4200 2S mine is a 2200 3s). 

Muchos fun, and good to look forward to for next time. 

FYI, also took a CC01 Land Cruiser 40, knew it would not be capable due to ride height, but on the first lap was surprising capable when helped over steps and logs bigger than the wheels, it even did the steep slope as well, which did surprise me, but on the second lap, the rear diff when crunch and suddenly I had a FWD crawler, rendering it completely incapable of any crawling activities. + 1 to the knock off.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was noticing the same about 2nd gear. It seems to disappear if the shift fork is not in the exact correct spot. The Tamiya Bruiser generally, has nice, crisp shifts while the HG does not. I believe some of this can be fixed with a more precise servo saver. However, that will only fix part of the problem. The other part is that the Tamiya has a much better set of shifting internals that allow for smoother operation.

I believe the knock off is a fun truck, but it's nowhere near the same as the Tamiya version. At some point, I'm going to post a pic of all the parts I replaced. Some parts are sorely needed, like shocks and others were more for fine-tuning.

I think I may want to replace the driveshafts with something with a little less slop. Finding a short enough front shaft may be a challenge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's the parts I replaced. You can easily see the irregularity of the leaf springs. Tamiya springs are way more uniform. I also replaced the U bolts which I did not mention in earlier posts. I did not take pics of the bearings, but I did replace all 50 of those. I think it was 50. :D

parts.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Richie Rich

 

What is the mod you did to the shocks and what are the different trailing arms you used? What is the difference they give. I have done quite bit of work to my Bruiser if you've seen the thread. Looking for more improvement. majo rchange was Schumacer CAT XLS Rear shocks all round

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@FoxShot

 

I tossed the stock shocks and used some Chinese made knock-offs from Amazon. In order to mount them, I removed the shock towers and replaced them with some rc4wd shock loops. For the trailing arms, those are just some 130mm hot racing tubes mounted to the axles then up to the chassis cross member.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been away! Thanks for the info re the trailing arms. They are a hinderance for the rear travel I find. Think I will try yours, and bend them. Do they bend easily do you know?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, FoxShot said:

Been away! Thanks for the info re the trailing arms. They are a hinderance for the rear travel I find. Think I will try yours, and bend them. Do they bend easily do you know?

They are aluminum so I assume they will bend with enough force. I kept them straight as I believe they are there to keep the axle from moving laterally. Really, the rear suspension has less articulation due to the mounting points of the leaf springs to the axle. They are farther out on the edge which means there's less leverage to compress the suspension.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...