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wtcc5

wtcc5s Tamiya Dyna Blaster

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Anti-roll-bar and front body posts:

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The build result so far:

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🥰

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Tires and wheels:

Thankfully Tamiya uses both in other cars as well. Tires and front wheels are no problem to get. Rear wheels are a little bit more difficult,but I found a pair in a german shop 😃

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Just one thing is strange. The rear wheels are shiny chrome while the front wheels are kind of semi-gloss. Maybe this is the difference between Dyna Blaster and Street Rover wheels. Or maybe new and old edition...

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Final steps: Battery brace and body

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I took a closer look at the body today and I am unsure what to do. It was colored with a brush. The paintlayers are very thick. Also I think that non-polycarbonate paint was used, because color easily chippes off the body... I am very tempted to remove the old paint with tons of paintkiller and repaint it again.

And while I am unsure what to do, I tried your advises regarding the sticker reattachment. And both techniques worked fine. In this case the decals had already collected dirt underneath. After removing this as good as it was possible, it was clear that the glue would never stick on the body again. In those cases I used the super glue method. The result really is satisfying. Thanks again guys!

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And the car in all its present glory:

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I would keep the shell as it is, have seen much worse ones. And blue contrast way better with decals then boxart red. 

About rims, there are indeed differences between old and newer ones, which is the chrome coat. But I cant tell you which is which. 

About the MDC, you could swap the white plastic bearing for a ballbearing, if you want to. 

I really like your photo documentation, such a pleasure to see. Top!!! 

 

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Thank you!

Cool info again 👍🏻

The old wheels have the semi-gloss finish, at least the originals that came with the truck have.

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Thanks to @Collin and @Tamiyabigstuff I could get some parts in my hands to make this car even more beautiful :wub:

 

At first the rear podplate was a little thorn in my eye:

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Together with it I also replaced the screws with new shiny ones. Of course Tamiya and from the nineties :D

 

And then this:

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A new body set for the full shelfqueen mode.

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More to come 🥰

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There are not many official Hop Ups for the Dyna Blaster. As far as I know only the pink Acto Power (53122), the turnbuckle shaft set (53181) and the sleeved damper set (53125).

The shockbodies for the latter are still available in Germany. I bought them and found an offer from @Collin for the fitting V-parts. Fun fact: the piston rods of the TC-01 are the same. The missing N-parts are not really necessary, because they only consist of the ride height clamps (I used the ones of the stock dampers) and the upper spring retainer (I 3d-printed these).

A little problematic are the upper damper mounts. I bought the thick o-rings and 6mm balls, but there is no chance to get the knurled nut. I replaced this part with spacers and a press nut.

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Building these shocks is fun and they look awesome

 

... and then I found another Dyna Blaster before having done the body of the first one yet 🤣🥰

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It is already laying in parts in front of me. The condition is even better than the first one. Awesome ☺️

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Sounds all so familier to me... :ph34r: Once you have one they replicate themself. Really a mystery to me.

DBS_01.jpg

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A lot of time passed since the last post. I rebuild the second Dyna Blaster and again had soo much fun. Especially the gearbox is a real highlight! The condition is a little more used than the first one I rebuild regarding the moving parts. The plastic therefore looks much better with less or no scratches. I found no damaged parts.

I added the blue sleeved dampers again, as they are still available and fair priced. @Collin helped a lot with good suggestions and his ton of experience. I wanted to use 3D printed damper mounts, but in the end it failed to function as I wanted, so I used press nuts again.

 

Two brothers:

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And then I got the wild idea to drive one of these again. Parts are not available, we all know that. With luck you find a whole chassis here or on Ebay. With the thought, that this runner then will become a shelfqueen later, I don't want to risk any part. I chose @Collin path and 3D printed the rear suspension mounts, steering, c-hubs and front bulkhead. The full size Lipo wouldn't fit underneath the esc platform in front of the rear shocktower. I made a cfk brace and a new battery brace to place the battery properly in the chassis.

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Another challenge was the restoration of the used body. My uncle had cut off the front lip as it was maybe damaged a lot. The color partly chipped of everywhere and the stickers got loose in different places.

I adressed the latter earlier on. The color and the cutted front really bothered me. As I have two new bodies lying around and just one sticker set, I really wished I could put the old stickers on one of the new bodies with magic...

I took a closer look at the old color layers and found places where I could remove the blue color and it seperated from the body, leaving the body underneath in a virgin condition. The thicker the colorlayer was the better I could remove it. The layer on the hood and roof were so thick, that I could pull it off like vinyl film. It still took time and effort, but was much better than the use of paint killer (which nearly had no effect on the blue color... I tried). The result looked nice, too:

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The yellow and black was connected strong to the lexan so I decided to let is there and just repaint the locations where it chipped of. The black color painting went on nicely, unfortunately the yellow didn't like the Tamiya PS color and wrinkled of the body again leaving the body underneath crystal clear. It was a little mess pulling the wrinkled color off, but still better than paint killer :D Strangely not everywhere did the yellow come off... Oh well, it worked. For the blue I chose Tamiya brilliant blue instead of the normal blue, as I found it better fitting to the yellow.

The last step then was to replace the broken front lip. Again I am a lucky boy. The previous owner of the second Dyna Blaster added a new body that was only trimmed. He praised himself for having cut the body carefully anf precise. He did even better than that. He trimmed the front and sides much lower than the trimming line suggested, leaving perfect formed material for me to use as front lip for the runner body. I colored it yellow and glued it with ShoeGoo to the old body. This repair is nothing for the collector, but repairs the look for the body and you cannot see it if you stay 2 meters away. The overall result is nearly to good to drive :lol:

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@wtcc5 You did a excellent job on the old body. High 5 and hats off. Blue contrasts much better then red to the yellow/orange decals.

About the 3D prints, which looks well printet too, which filament did you use? Looks like PETG from the pics. If you really want to run this Dyna, I would consider to remake the D5 bulkhead as well. The little spikes breaks off so easy.

 

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1 hour ago, Collin said:

@wtcc5 You did a excellent job on the old body. High 5 and hats off. Blue contrasts much better then red to the yellow/orange decals.

About the 3D prints, which looks well printet too, which filament did you use? Looks like PETG from the pics. If you really want to run this Dyna, I would consider to remake the D5 bulkhead as well. The little spikes breaks off so easy.

 

Thank you!

The blue really catches the eye. I was flashed when my uncle showed his car for the first time 25 years ago.

I learned a lot about support structures doing these prints and also looked at your parts filament layer orientation to avoid support material and the ugly surfaces it leaves behind. On the pictures, there are for example two versions of the D1 & D2 parts. I printed the D5 part also... just made no pictures... :(

I used the standard (cheap) material PLA, oversized the parts geometry and printed spares, too. Quincy and I are still searching for a nice playground with (fine) sand, no stones, as he wants to run a vintage buggy. I couldn't stand seeing the Dyna Blaster overturn and crashing after a big jump. A golfcourse would be perfect for it :D 

"The little spikes breaks off so easy.": I couldn't add material there, just make it wider, but also didn't thought that these were taking so much force :o

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Would you post some pics of your prints please? I am cuious... print position is always a compromis. Our parts need strenght in all directions, they have mounts in 2 axis all time. Definitly hard to find best way to print, if you want avoid supports ect...

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Thanks again!
 

As said, I have no pictures of the actual prints, but can show parts, orientation and print preparation in Rhino.

I built the support structures myself, basically just 0.5mm rectangles, that only touch horizontal orientated surfaces and have a space of 1.5mm in between. So nothing special, but I found it better than let Ultimaker Cura do them automatically or define them in Cura.

 

Front bulkhead:

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Rear suspension mounts:

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These need no support. I just print them standing.

 

Steering arms:

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C-Hubs:

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They have only one little support surface each which doesn't need to be removed.

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@wtcc5 Ah, you add the supports already in Rhino, right? Great job on the parts.

I always get lost in finishing with nice roundings on the edges/corners, which you even dont notice when you print them :lol:

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On 10/5/2020 at 12:30 PM, wtcc5 said:

Thanks again!
 

As said, I have no pictures of the actual prints, but can show parts, orientation and print preparation in Rhino.

I built the support structures myself, basically just 0.5mm rectangles, that only touch horizontal orientated surfaces and have a space of 1.5mm in between. So nothing special, but I found it better than let Ultimaker Cura do them automatically or define them in Cura.

 

Front bulkhead:

front_bulkheadybkp2.png

front_bulkhead_printwejjv.png

 

Rear suspension mounts:

rear_sus_mount_1jxj2j.png

rear_sus_mount_29xk8q.png

These need no support. I just print them standing.

 

Steering arms:

steering_armuajhy.png

steering_arm_printbsk60.png

 

C-Hubs:

c-hub_1j7jix.png

c-hub_23ckyw.png

They have only one little support surface each which doesn't need to be removed.

How do.i order these?

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On 10/12/2020 at 1:39 AM, GTodd said:

How do.i order these?

Collin sells his stuff on Ebay and Shapeways already. If you want my parts and are in Europe I could put them on Shapeways or print them FDM. Contact me via PN please if that is the case.

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