Top Force for racing

[Forum Fodder 0]

I'm looking at getting a Top Force for racing at my local Astoturf buggy track. It mostly an 1/8th scale track but they have 10th classes, so will need some decent top speed.

What hop ups and spares are recommended to get with the basic kit? TA03 ball diffs? TA02 High speed gears?

What are the weak points of the buggy? 

Also will 2s square edge hard case Lipo fit?

[Finnsllc 917]

The square lipo is a really tight squeeze. I removed the battery stays and used velcro to hold the battery still. You can upgrade the diffs and gears prob shocks as well to the high caps or big bores. I run a 3250 trackstar in mine with 2s. Its pretty darn fast. Ive not raced it so i cant say about how it would go against other cars ata track. But i think mine goes like a rocket on a firm dirt surface, like a baseball infield.

[Forum Fodder 0]

Thanks for the info. I did think the shocks would be worth doing as well. What are the weak points of the kit for breakages/spares to get?

[Mad Ax 9329]

I love my Top Force sort-of-Evo for racing, it's a very well-mannered buggy and goes where I point it without much fuss.  With a good set of modern shocks you can tune the suspension reasonably well.  It lacks the features of modern buggies, so unless you're doing vintage racing, consider something more current - remember it's nearly 30 years old now.

If you're running in a vintage class then you'll have plenty of fun.  Some caveats:

• There's no slipper option for the Top Force, so if you're running big power, consider turning down the punch to save the gears
• The rear gear case can open up under load.  There are fixes involving screws that go right through the bottom case and have a nut on the end
• Same for the rear shock tower mount, you can put one screw right through the gear case and put a nut on it
• IIRC the Top Force spur gear drives an aluminium gear, which wears (like Tamiya alu pinions) and destroys the plastic gears.  The Manta Ray spur is a one-piece plastic unit and is stronger.  I'm not sure if the speed tuned gears replaces the spur
• The motor mount is a known weak point.  Various companies sell aluminium alternatives.  Be careful when fitting as they technically only fit one way around, but they can be squoze in the wrong way
• Get some steel pinions

Besides stripping a spur due to a badly-fitted pinion, the only part I have broken is the front upper gearbox housing, where the shock tower mount fits.  Despite some big crashes I haven't broken a suspension arm or mount yet (mine has the vintage white plastic arms).  A spare set of gearbox plastics and hubs wouldn't go amiss.

Mine has a vintage HPI chassis with a lateral battery mount and velcro straps.  I'm sure I could get a square LiPo in there if I needed to.  Same for the standard chassis, I'd expect you can get something in if you remove the stock plastics and use velcro.

[Forum Fodder 0]

I have a set of these shocks, will they work with the Top Force.

Its only for a bit of fun racing and practising really, so not too worried about getting a modern kit, or to be keeping up with them

[Finnsllc 917]

yeah, those will work.

[Forum Fodder 0]

I'm assuming it will handle a 10.5T brushless ok? What sort of gear ratio should I be looking at?

[Danmurphy1978 3]

44 minutes ago, Forum Fodder said:

I'm assuming it will handle a 10.5T brushless ok? What sort of gear ratio should I be looking at?

I'm geared on 69/23 with a 13.5T which is 7.31:1 and am running on a small/medium sized astro track. I could probably go to a smaller pinion for a bit more punch but it feels nice and smooth to drive with decent top end. You may get away with the standard ratio, 74/21 (8.59:1) but to get a lower FDR you need the high speed gear set.

The high speed gear set (47328) comes with one piece spur/idlers, so does away with the alloy idler in the gearbox.