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tomjkear

PS-49 Sky Blue Anodized Aluminium

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Hi,

I've just done a 4th coat of this paint and it's still really transparent... is this normal?

The manual says to back in black, which I'm going to do, but so far I can still see right through the shell.

I warmed the can in lukewarm water and have shaken it vigorously.

Cheers :D

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I'd back it in bright silver then white, or black depending on the tone you wanted. 

 

Which car / body? Scooby?

 

Do a test on a cut off or a bit of a fizzy drinks bottle

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10 minutes ago, tomjkear said:

Hi,

I've just done a 4th coat of this paint and it's still really transparent... is this normal?

The manual says to back in black, which I'm going to do, but so far I can still see right through the shell.

I warmed the can in lukewarm water and have shaken it vigorously.

Cheers :D

yes normal, depending on the shell size I normally use most of the paint.

Once you back with black you will see the nice result!

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Thanks guys.  It's a Plasma Edge II and I'm trying to get it to look as similar to the box art as possible.  Painting and stickering is not my strong point... I like the building and often stumble at the last hurdle.

To be fair it's just for bashing around in the garden so it's not too important but I want it to look as best I can achieve :D

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i always save the body cut out pieces for testing colors and damaged body patches, PS paints are all that way, darker colors not so much but still some what transparent,

those lil' cans drive me nuts

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52 minutes ago, ACCEL said:

i always save the body cut out pieces for testing colors and damaged body patches, PS paints are all that way, darker colors not so much but still some what transparent,

those lil' cans drive me nuts

Yup, I have a whole box of lexan scaps. Perfect for test sprays

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Yes it is transparent. I didn’t know about backing colours when I did my Stadium Blitzer. Ended up using the whole can on it, it’s worn though a bit in places now where the body posts are and where some of it’s been shot blasted with sand at the beach. Still looks OK now after a lot of use. 
I would back it if I was to do another one. Photos don’t really do it justice, much better in reality.

This was when it was freshly finished  

F29FFC0E-9A40-4718-A281-210355950BEB.md.

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Yup, normal. Used a whole can on my 911 RSR then backed with bright gun metal and white

I think that even as far as transparent paints go, this one is very light in terms of coverage. But looks awesome when backed well!

IMG_7044.thumb.jpeg.361ba9b477b8c73ab6b55ea5955017b0.jpeg

IMG_7045.thumb.jpeg.1921092956ec135ff6f729f6ce92f95a.jpeg

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Back all of the anodized paints with black only not silver. If you back with silver you lose all the chrome effect you just paid extra for :lol:

It still makes for a nice colour but it won't function correctly without the black, and it's quite normal for it to be fairly transparent. It's critical to spray enough of it so you don't end up with black patches showing through. Do this by holding it up to a light source to check coverage...

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So I kept coating till the can felt pretty empty and had to give up for the day because the resident toddler arrived home from nursery.  I'll give it a few coats of black in the morning to see how it turns out.

I can see it isn't going to be perfect, there are some tiny lighter dots with darker borders in a few places.  They are subtle though so I feel like it went relatively well.  I'm not sure what caused these mark though!?

I may post a photo of end result :D

Cheers!

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I'm with @ChrisRx718.  Metallic things do better with black.  

(For non-metallic colors, I back them with white to make them pop; I don't like how black makes them dingy)

For metallic?  Black.  If you want to paint scale airplanes with aluminum or chrome, gloss black must be painted first.  In smaller scale, the difference is night and day.  With black it looks more like metal. Without black, it looks like a toy.  That's why Tamiya instructs you to use black.  Otherwise metallic colors become milky.  I dig the colors of @Re-Bugged and @Juhunio's brighter colors so you can definitely use silver or white.  But it might make it less metallic.  

I found some random image showing off PS-49 with metallic sheen.  I'm assuming this one was backed with black.  

seaoLn1.jpg

 

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19 minutes ago, Juggular said:

I'm with @ChrisRx718.  Metallic things do better with black.  

(For non-metallic colors, I back them with white to make them pop; I don't like how black makes them dingy)

For metallic?  Black.  If you want to paint scale airplanes with aluminum or chrome, gloss black must be painted first.  In smaller scale, the difference is night and day.  With black it looks more like metal. Without black, it looks like a toy.  That's why Tamiya instructs you to use black.  Otherwise metallic colors become milky.  I dig the colors of @Re-Bugged and @Juhunio's brighter colors so you can definitely use silver or white.  But it might make it less metallic.  

I found some random image showing off PS-49 with metallic sheen.  I'm assuming this one was backed with black.  

seaoLn1.jpg

 

Interesting paint - I don’t really understand how it can remain transparent on application but survive a backing coat of black without going dark and muddy - black is just so...black. 
 

the Porsche above looks more chrome - but photos I guess.
 

might get a can and muck around with it.  

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18 minutes ago, Howards said:

Interesting paint - I don’t really understand how it can remain transparent on application but survive a backing coat of black without going dark and muddy - black is just so...black.

I know, isn't it strange?  

Even stranger thing is that black undercoat works better even for lighter colors like gold and silver. 

It's totally counter intuitive.  

 

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13 minutes ago, Juggular said:

I know, isn't it strange?  

Even stranger thing is that black undercoat works better even for lighter colors like gold and silver. 

It's totally counter intuitive.  

 

Hah yeah. 

In my experience silver is actually a pretty solid and dark shade. Tamiya's basic silver certainly is - it will slightly darken a translucent or pearl white if used as a backing colour as it's basically a mid metallic grey.I sometimes use it to back a translucent colour if I'm then applying black and I don't want the translucent colour affected by the black and don't want to apply gallons of white. It acts as a shield with a single coat. 

 Tamiya's Bright silver not so much, it's fairly translucent and can provide a good metallic backing but black will turn it grey. 

Gold I reckon is a pretty dense, solid that should withstand black. It has a darkness to itself anyway. The Ti Gold will be darkened by black but you can't get that in PS anyway.

 

Anyway, chucked some PS-49 in a modelsport paint order so let's see. Christ its spendy.

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40 minutes ago, Howards said:

the Porsche above looks more chrome - but photos I guess.

I’m very happy with how metallic it is! And those photos on a nice but not really sunny evening. I think the bright gun metal plays a big part. Neither black OR white, but somewhere in between! TBH the final white coat was unnecessary and didn’t really make any difference

I experimented on some lexan offcuts before I painted, and straight out of ‘paint’ on a sunny day before stickering  it was crazily metallic

6CBC818A-0846-4B12-BB5A-8E5D780B5525.jpeg

7F5C6F10-C7D6-4F98-8148-043CF015D3D8.jpeg

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It’s definitely a cool color. I used it on an Axial SCX blazer body. Backed it with sliver then sprayed the white lower.  

783F4DA6-F505-4465-9204-4F7B974EFA91_zps
 

I also used it on a cup racer body where I just sprayed the whole can and didn’t use any backer

04.18.15%20062_zpspiioghet.jpg
 

I think either way you go, backer or no backer, you have to spray the entire can out

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with some colors, you cant tell the final outcome without backing. making paint tests on a lexan scrap piece is the best to do if you want to get an idea, or to know what direction to go (darker/lighter).

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2 hours ago, Alexei said:

with some colors, you cant tell the final outcome without backing. making paint tests on a lexan scrap piece is the best to do if you want to get an idea, or to know what direction to go (darker/lighter).

You’re right. That’s the best way to test your paint ideas. When I was deciding on a color for my Porsche 934 body I made these test samples. The Wild Willy body substituting for the wing. I painted the gold first then sprayed the clear red.  The wheel well cutout got the red first then backed with gold. 

099E987A-496C-4C29-AC4B-AAAF9638B133_zps

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Here's my end result. It's not perfect but I'm happy with it. 

There's are imperfections in the paint and a few areas where the plastic has been stressed when I cut it out. 

I'm sure once it's stickered up (and knocked about a bit) I'll forget all about the problems and nobody else will notice unless I point them out.

 Cheers :)

IMG_20200904_112658.jpg

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On 9/3/2020 at 7:26 PM, Howards said:

Interesting paint - I don’t really understand how it can remain transparent on application but survive a backing coat of black without going dark and muddy - black is just so...black. 

My guess is that this 'anodised' paint is laying down a very thin layer of mirror-like particles, like the alclad model paints Juggular alluded to earlier, albeit with some coloured tint. 

Then you can use the analogy of a 2-way mirror to explain why black makes the transparent mirror layer opaque without muddying it: a 2-way mirror is transparent when there is light behind it, but when the other side of the mirror is totally dark, it becomes a near-perfect mirror. 

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