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Kewlicks

Tamiya Eunos Roadster M-06 bodyshell issue

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Hi all,

I hope everyone is well.

I have an issue with aTamiya 47431 Eunos Roadster on a M-06 chassis build.

This is my second build, so bare with me! :D

As far as I can tell, it is built as per manual, but when I put the shell on the chassis, the front wheels stick out from the bodyshell. This results in when the wheels turn, they hit the edges of wheel arch. 

I've looked at photos of other peoples builds, their wheels don't stick out and the body shell sits quite low on the chassis. If I want to clear the wheels, I have raise the shell ridiculously high. 

The chassis wheelbase is correct for the bodyshell. 

Does anyone know what I have missed?

I've read around this forum and I notice a long thread regarding the build from ChrisRx781 - and he mentions that he had an issue with the bodyshell and had to order M-04 chassis parts but not which parts. From the tone of the thread, it appears to be a common issue?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks

Steve

 

IMG_20200910_141217826.jpg

IMG_20200910_141138216.jpg

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Looks like you have a lot of positive camber, can you reduce it with the upper camber links? 

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Hi,

My issue was the location of the body holes in relation to the M06 standard rear body posts, I couldn't get it aligned. I would assume (hope) that the kit version on the M06 would align correctly.

The width issue is strange, as above suggestions, have you checked they aren't cambered too far out? 

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The Eunos is a very narrow body. I have 4 mm hex on my M08 and wheels are barely tucked in 

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Can you show us a pic with the body off?

@Raman36 do you have a link for the 4mm thick hex please? Cheers

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Thanks all for the replies!

It doesn't appear to be he same for the rear axle. The wheels are within the bodyshell.

As requested, I've added photos of the interior.

When I built this originally, I had to adjust the camber on the front right quite a bit to get the wheel to actually point in the right direction! The recommended camber adjustments in the manual didn't appear to be correct.

IMG_20200911_090400615.jpg

IMG_20200911_090307746.jpg

IMG_20200911_090323001.jpg

IMG_20200911_091456042.jpg

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11 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Hi,

My issue was the location of the body holes in relation to the M06 standard rear body posts, I couldn't get it aligned. I would assume (hope) that the kit version on the M06 would align correctly.

The width issue is strange, as above suggestions, have you checked they aren't cambered too far out? 

Thanks for replying, ChrisRx718.

Yes..I forgot that you built yours from individual items rather than a kit!

Cheers

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According to the manual you have to make wheels for front and rear axle. Are they different for front and rear? And if so is it possible that they are interchanged?

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52 minutes ago, Aerobert said:

According to the manual you have to make wheels for front and rear axle. Are they different for front and rear? And if so is it possible that they are interchanged?

That's just the tyres - soft on the back, regular on the front axle. There's no difference in the actual wheel structure.

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22 hours ago, berman said:

Can you show us a pic with the body off?

@Raman36 do you have a link for the 4mm thick hex please? Cheers

Tamiya 53570 are the 4mm Hex

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2 hours ago, Raman36 said:

Tamiya 53570 are the 4mm Hex

Awesome thanks!

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23 hours ago, Kewlicks said:

When I built this originally, I had to adjust the camber on the front right quite a bit to get the wheel to actually point in the right direction! The recommended camber adjustments in the manual didn't appear to be correct.

I would try again, I can see your steering linkages are two different lengths which means your bridge is off centre. Your ball connectors seem to be in the correct place, so I would make sure per the manual you fitted the correct ends to each rod, reset the tie rods lengths, camber arms, and centre your servo. Once those are per the manual we can take another look.

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On 9/11/2020 at 9:22 AM, Kewlicks said:

When I built this originally, I had to adjust the camber on the front right quite a bit to get the wheel to actually point in the right direction!

When you say 'right direction' I assume you mean the toe angle? You shouldn't be changing the camber to adjust the toe - this is what the steering linkages are for, and as berman says, your steering linkages are different lengths left and right, so at the very least, these are not set up correctly. 

And I agree with Svenb that your camber looks wrong on the front wheels - i.e., the top arms are adjusted too long. Shortening them will bring the tops of the wheels inwards and help to clear the wheelarches - and improve handling, too (you don't usually want the top of the wheel farther out than the bottom). 

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If I remember correctly, doesn't the M06 require you to cut the front ball connectors for the camber links down in the manual? Something which is quite difficult to do accurately. This would reduce the width of the upper camber links by 2mm either side. Missing this step would be quite easy I reckon.

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28 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

If I remember correctly, doesn't the M06 require you to cut the front ball connectors for the camber links down in the manual? Something which is quite difficult to do accurately. This would reduce the width of the upper camber links by 2mm either side. Missing this step would be quite easy I reckon.

I don't remember seeing that at all. They're on threaded shafts to allow for adjustment. Not seen the cutting down references. But, I will check again. I may have missed it.

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15 hours ago, rich_f said:

When you say 'right direction' I assume you mean the toe angle? You shouldn't be changing the camber to adjust the toe - this is what the steering linkages are for, and as berman says, your steering linkages are different lengths left and right, so at the very least, these are not set up correctly. 

And I agree with Svenb that your camber looks wrong on the front wheels - i.e., the top arms are adjusted too long. Shortening them will bring the tops of the wheels inwards and help to clear the wheelarches - and improve handling, too (you don't usually want the top of the wheel farther out than the bottom). 

Yes. Having just googled "toe angle", yes, that was the issue originally. Since I had to google toe angle, you can tell I'm pretty new to this stuff! :) 

I will go back and take a look at the whole front wheel and steering section again to see what I have messed up.

Thanks all for the replies! It's been very much appreciated.

Steve

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5 hours ago, Kewlicks said:

I don't remember seeing that at all. They're on threaded shafts to allow for adjustment. Not seen the cutting down references. But, I will check again. I may have missed it.

20200913_181249.thumb.jpg.8de10a45a97b14b9d32ade7d2a056f6f.jpg

Here you are bud. I personally don't like this practice of cutting down ball connectors, because it's really not easy to do accurately, using a blade, dremel or a miniature saw blade (probably best option, not a tool many rc builders will have!)

Especially so when short ball connectors are readily available- why not just use those, Mr Tamiya?!!

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1 hour ago, ChrisRx718 said:

20200913_181249.thumb.jpg.8de10a45a97b14b9d32ade7d2a056f6f.jpg

Here you are bud. I personally don't like this practice of cutting down ball connectors, because it's really not easy to do accurately, using a blade, dremel or a miniature saw blade (probably best option, not a tool many rc builders will have!)

Especially so when short ball connectors are readily available- why not just use those, Mr Tamiya?!!

It's not the size of the ball connector that is important - it is the overall length of the rod measured from the centres of the ball ends - so not being that accurate on the cut in the instructions is not a big deal. It just means that you will lose a bit of the adjustment potential - the amount you lose is the size of the error in the cut, and there is probably plenty of spare thread to allow for a little inaccuracy in the trimming procedure. 

As for why short connectors are not included, I can only imagine that it is because the parts tree containing this part is used on other models and making an entirely new mold just to change one part was not cost effective. Tamiya in the past may have just included both lengths on the tree but maybe they are trying to save the planet with less plastic use - one pair of ball connectors at a time. 

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Thanks all for the information and the pointers! Having reading the manual again, I had missed it. Doh!

So, I stripped down the steering mechanism and now the front wheels sit inside the shell :rolleyes:

However, the front wheels still touch the shell when turning. Something still isn't right. It's as if she bodyshell needs to be moved forward a bit on the chassis.

Any ideas?

The wheels are still on 5 mm hexes. Not sure going down to 4 mm would improve the situation.

*ignore the horrendous tyre gluing on the back wheel:unsure:

IMG_20200924_085315996_HDR.jpg

IMG_20200924_085419383_HDR.jpg

IMG_20200924_085324176.jpg

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

Was the body pre-drilled for the posts?

Yes. Well, it had "where to drill" markings for the support posts.

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When I built mine I used the dimples to drill the body post holes. After everything was painted and mounted I found I had to keep trimming fractions of a mm off the front arches until everything cleared the full steering travel. 
I don’t think the “where to drill” marks and wheel wells are perfect, but they are close.

 

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5 hours ago, Dakratfink said:

When I built mine I used the dimples to drill the body post holes. After everything was painted and mounted I found I had to keep trimming fractions of a mm off the front arches until everything cleared the full steering travel. 
I don’t think the “where to drill” marks and wheel wells are perfect, but they are close.

 

Thanks, Dakratfink for the info.

Yes, I'm leading down that path myself as I can't see any other way to shift the bodyshell forward a few mm's. What I should have done was to get magnetic body mounts in the first place and used them. You live and learn. :rolleyes:

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