Jump to content
Juhunio

Porsche 934 RSR 230mm 'Baby Blue'

Recommended Posts

I'm shamefully partial to a bit of servo bling, so mounted the Savox on these really nice servo mounts from a seller called Precision Geek on eBay:

IMG_7154.thumb.jpeg.83833cf29c46e61323f5ef4a9875b8e9.jpeg

And then added an aluminium servo horn and servo saver cap, just because...

IMG_7250.thumb.jpeg.5d8552a88b2deb4115151d8e6ac09af1.jpeg

IMG_7426.thumb.jpeg.08230864b97f8c520c7e4559406a2956.jpeg

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided to mount all the electrics 'below decks', to keep the top deck clear

IMG_7427.thumb.jpeg.4902e0c8eaa7ab1b816a570b5bc73ef7.jpeg

Only slight issue is the receiver antenna isn't long enough to reach as far as the antenna tube mount, so I've just taped it to the upper deck. Is there an easy way to extend them??

IMG_7422.thumb.jpeg.9e1d074bfbaf59b0cc31399f62b48f37.jpeg

But other than that :wub:

IMG_7418.thumb.jpeg.98b67d2832d3718bdbbf613a0a21da60.jpeg

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your car turned out really well. How you cut the pop shaft and mashed the end was what I had in mind also. 

I have one of the max speed chassis for my anniversary build and when I found out about the 230mm I ordered one up. I started a new black Porsche build. Then COVID hit and the BS with maxspeed started. They stated DHL was no longer shipping small packages. I asked on here about shipping and some confirmed the decreased shipping but then I got two different parts from two different German sellers so after 4 months of waiting I got my money back. Here is where it sits

6E274ABE_43AC_487E_BC15_ACAE1679F5DC_Ful

 

E29E73F6-CB67-4811-91EE-AFA3991B5E97_zps

 

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Juhunio NOTHING wrong with a bit of Blue Bling!! 😜😉  When  able, I will too. Besides, you've got SO much time and effort into that beautiful Chassis - it was justified that you added some sparkle!

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Shodog said:

Your car turned out really well. How you cut the pop shaft and mashed the end was what I had in mind also. 

I have one of the max speed chassis for my anniversary build and when I found out about the 230mm I ordered one up. I started a new black Porsche build. Then COVID hit and the BS with maxspeed started. They stated DHL was no longer shipping small packages. I asked on here about shipping and some confirmed the decreased shipping but then I got two different parts from two different German sellers so after 4 months of waiting I got my money back. Here is where it sits

6E274ABE_43AC_487E_BC15_ACAE1679F5DC_Ful

 

Oh, that's a real shame. If you want to pick it up again and look into me ordering the parts and then shipping them to you, let me know

Those brake discs and callipers are SWEET! Where do they come from?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/11/2020 at 1:04 PM, Juhunio said:

Then it's time to attach the front and rear sections to the chassis, which is when the real fun starts!

Firstly, I decided to make first use of my Tamiya drill and thread tapper, and use machine screws rather than self tappers for this part of the build.

IMG_6953.thumb.jpeg.b6823710bfde5a3cdc9ebf7d4a84723e.jpeg

I was quite nervous of messing it up, but it's an amazingly easy tool to use and the screws then thread in and out very smoothly. I think this will be my method of choice for all future builds! If you can find hex-head screws in the right lengths, obviously!

Again, the optional chassis plates are excellent, all the mounting holes are drilled very accurately

IMG_6936.thumb.jpeg.d63668f09bcb53161346745702c6c8c9.jpeg

For the rest of this modification, full credit must go to @ruebiracer, as this is absolutely his modification method. And it works a treat B)

First, you have to push the copper collars off the prop cups. Easy enough in a vice using a few M4 nuts to push them off, they don't need too much force to pop off

Then I balanced the prop shaft on the prop cups and drew a line to mark the overlap, to get an accurate idea of the extra space needed. Logically it should be 6mm, but it's always worth a double check!

IMG_6947.thumb.jpeg.dd56a9455a12c9f1b14e8c099d9d07db.jpeg

Sure enough, 6mm!

IMG_6940.thumb.jpeg.b921c4755556a41abdc720be5f7bf596.jpeg

I then used a Dremel cutting disc to cut an extra 3mm depth in the slots in the prop cups, so the shaft could sit 6mm deeper end to end and 'buy' the space I need that way

IMG_7024.thumb.jpeg.1f134874305a463558ab643eb72b75a9.jpeg

 

Just glad, that it worked for you so easily the first time! It´s really some kind of safe mod, when you have already a Dremel and a cutting disc. And in the end, nobody will notice the mod, as it looks so original.:lol: 

You´ve done a great build, and gave me some inspirations for some reworks on mine! Thanks for showing all the details behind your showroom entry!  And have fun running it. With the radials, performance is really good for this old TA02. I actually was surprised how good it drives, as I never drove such a short touring car before rebulding minr to 230mm wheeelbase... :)

 

Best regards,

Matthias

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Juhunio said:

Oh, that's a real shame. If you want to pick it up again and look into me ordering the parts and then shipping them to you, let me know

Those brake discs and callipers are SWEET! Where do they come from?

I might have to do that. I just got frustrated with the seller. It was always excuse after excuse. I got my money back but I’d much rather have the chassis. 
 

The discs are ones you see on eBay all the time. The tough part is that you have to mill the shoulder off the axle and then shim the caliper bracket to fit the bearing seat to make it work. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Juhunio said:

IMG_7422.thumb.jpeg.9e1d074bfbaf59b0cc31399f62b48f37.jpeg

 

Great job on this car 👍🏻
I could do with some new tyres on mine as the originals are starting to crack, these look the business. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

Just glad, that it worked for you so easily the first time! It´s really some kind of safe mod, when you have already a Dremel and a cutting disc. And in the end, nobody will notice the mod, as it looks so original.:lol: 

You´ve done a great build, and gave me some inspirations for some reworks on mine! Thanks for showing all the details behind your showroom entry!  And have fun running it. With the radials, performance is really good for this old TA02. I actually was surprised how good it drives, as I never drove such a short touring car before rebuilding mine to 230mm wheelbase... :)

Thanks very much! 

I've got inserts in the radials, but haven't really run it yet. But I have run my TT02 911 RSR and the tyres fell off after about 10 seconds!

Did you glue the tyres on yours? I'm so nervous about gluing tyres to these chrome rims, mostly about getting the tyres off when they're cooked so I can re-use the rims with fresh tyres! Have you (or anyone else reading) had a successful experience of keeping the tyres on the rims and then being able to re-use them with new tyres?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Shodog said:

I might have to do that. I just got frustrated with the seller. It was always excuse after excuse. I got my money back but I’d much rather have the chassis. 
 

Well, let me know. The chassis plates and shock towers shipped to me in the UK are £58, ballpark shipping to the US is £12-£15 depending on the size and weight of the package

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Juhunio said:

Thanks very much! 

I've got inserts in the radials, but haven't really run it yet. But I have run my TT02 911 RSR and the tyres fell off after about 10 seconds!

Did you glue the tyres on yours? I'm so nervous about gluing tyres to these chrome rims, mostly about getting the tyres off when they're cooked so I can re-use the rims with fresh tyres! Have you (or anyone else reading) had a successful experience of keeping the tyres on the rims?

As I´m into Onroad racing, I was gluing them from the beginning. Usually the more grip the tires have and the softer the rubber, the more is the need to glue them on. It´s for sure some risk to ruin the optics, but if the tire comes off in a tight corner, the rim is anyway scratched. :huh:

So I guess you will end up to glue them on, if you really want to drive it safely.

  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

As I´m into Onroad racing, I was gluing them from the beginning. Usually the more grip the tires have and the softer the rubber, the more is the need to glue them on. It´s for sure some risk to ruin the optics, but if the tire comes off in a tight corner, the rim is anyway scratched. :huh:

So I guess you will end up to glue them on, if you really want to drive it safely.

Yeah, I thought so! I think I'll bite the bullet and buy an extra set of rims for gluing and running, and keep these for the shelf

What is your method for getting 'finished' tyres off the rims so you can re-use the rims?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Great job on this car 👍🏻
I could do with some new tyres on mine as the originals are starting to crack, these look the business. 

Cheers! The tyres are nice, these are the ones. Fronts are 53227, rears 53231

IMG_7563.thumb.jpeg.896a21079635e0a1c3e3b6d98ff8ff0b.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Juhunio said:

Yeah, I thought so! I think I'll bite the bullet and buy an extra set of rims for gluing and running, and keep these for the shelf

What is your method for getting 'finished' tyres off the rims so you can re-use the rims?

In the 1:8 buggy business, the rims are often put into Acetone, to solve the super glue. Unfortunately, most of the Tamiya rims are made of ABS. Usually, there is no way to get old tires off without damaging the wheel. In Acetone bath, the rims would disappear. Good thing on the Porsche wheels is that you can reuse the inner wheel insert.:lol:

But maybe you can try to rip off the rubber from the wheel and cut the residues off the rim with a hobby knife and so on, but it´s a messy, time intensive job. But it´s not impossible, had to do it on original Avante 2001 wheels, as they are so rare...

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Juhunio said:

What is your method for getting 'finished' tyres off the rims so you can re-use the rims?

Last weekend I had to remove 16 glued tyres from rims because I wanted to re-use the rims. I boiled them in a pan for 10-15 mins, then very carefully using tongs and gloves removed tyres from pan, pushed the rubber off the bead on the side that had been under water (obviously the tyre tends to float so only one side is submerged). The tyre breaks free of the super glue quite easily on that side. Then I put them back in the other way up and boiled for another 10 minutes and did same to other side of tyre.

I used a large heavy deep pan and managed to do 4 wheels/tyres at a time. My wheels were quite modern and seemed to come out OK with no distortion. Just a little bit of glue left in beads on rim which I scraped and filed off. Tyres were scrap and some ripped so wouldn't recommend this if you want to try and re-use the tyres. I also would not recommend this for very old or valuable vintage wheels. Mine were just some Tamiya DF03 wheels and some schumacher race wheels. I should add that I boiled them outside on a gas side burner on our BBQ, so no danger of boiling water going all over kitchen or filling kitchen with steam.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

But maybe you can try to rip off the rubber from the wheel and cut the residues off the rim with a hobby knife and so on, but it´s a messy, time intensive job. But it´s not impossible, had to do it on original Avante 2001 wheels, as they are so rare...

Yeah, this sounds more up my street than the acetone route! Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, mud4fun said:

Last weekend I had to remove 16 glued tyres from rims because I wanted to re-use the rims. I boiled them in a pan for 10-15 mins, then very carefully using tongs and gloves removed tyres from pan, pushed the rubber off the bead on the side that had been under water (obviously the tyre tends to float so only one side is submerged). The tyre breaks free of the super glue quite easily on that side. Then I put them back in the other way up and boiled for another 10 minutes and did same to other side of tyre.

I used a large heavy deep pan and managed to do 4 wheels/tyres at a time. My wheels were quite modern and seemed to come out OK with no distortion. Just a little bit of glue left in beads on rim which I scraped and filed off. Tyres were scrap and some ripped so wouldn't recommend this if you want to try and re-use the tyres. I also would not recommend this for very old or valuable vintage wheels. Mine were just some Tamiya DF03 wheels and some schumacher race wheels. I should add that I boiled them outside on a gas side burner on our BBQ, so no danger of boiling water going all over kitchen or filling kitchen with steam.

Thanks so much for the detailed specific response, just what I was after. Cheers!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I missed quite a bit of conversation last night! (Here!) 

I "cook" my Wheels in a Toaster Oven for 15-20min @200 f.... But then, I've only done it with Axial Wheels, which are all FRP. I tried the same with my CC-01 Wheels - and they MELTED! 

I would try the Boiling method. It seems safer for the Wheels. 😊

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Carmine A said:

I would try the Boiling method. It seems safer for the Wheels. 😊

I’m gonna give it a go 👍

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depending on the amount of glue used you may get away with a shorter boil time. Mine had 4 lots of glue spaced around the bead, each about 10mm long. 

Fingers crossed it works for you. I would not try it on a valuable wheel though. If the wheels are rare or vintage I'd be wary of doing the boiling method but for easily replaced modern wheels it is worth trying, saves you buying new wheels. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bake my rims in the oven at 300 for about 15 minutes. The rim expand and snaps the glue off. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Shodog said:

I bake my rims in the oven at 300 for about 15 minutes. The rim expand and snaps the glue off. 

Sounds a bit....smelly :lol:

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, one criticism of this body set. The use of a multitude of tiny stickers, applied in a specific order, to create the rear and (to a lesser degree) front bumpers. It is virtually (completely) impossible to apply them all in such a way as to get a perfect, seamless finish. There are always going to be creases and gaps

IMG_7404.thumb.jpeg.e792068d5e99740e91eca288c985eb0c.jpeg

IMG_7416.thumb.jpeg.44e860cf135e1ec4c528b2338d823b9e.jpeg

What I don't understand is why Tamiya didn't / couldn't provide a set of black plastic moulded parts that could be screwed / attached to the front and rear ends, in the same way the wing is. They could even be included on the same (black, plastic) parts tree as the wing and would surely make for a much better finish?

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can definitely agree with you on that!! They've done it several times before.... 

Why NOT separately applied Bumper Moldings? Wouldn't be expensive and would CERTAINLY look better! 👍👍  But THEN we would have to try to UNDERSTAND the Minds of Tamiya - and how many times do they make SENSE!!?? 😲😜😂😂

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Carmine A said:

I can definitely agree with you on that!! They've done it several times before.... 

Why NOT separately applied Bumper Moldings? Wouldn't be expensive and would CERTAINLY look better! 👍👍  But THEN we would have to try to UNDERSTAND the Minds of Tamiya - and how many times do they make SENSE!!?? 😲😜😂😂

Hmm, yup, I'm a relative newcomer to all this but have fallen foul of Real Life Logic vs Tamiya Logic a few times already!

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...