Does tyre glue make rims 'single use'?

[Champ85 609]

On 9/12/2020 at 4:04 PM, Gazzalene said:

I thought that if you put wheel and tyre into boiling water the tyre comes away cleanly????

Careful doing that. Some wheels don't like water that hot and will deform into something more like an oval than a circle.  And once they do that, you ain't getting them round again.  I found out the hard way with a set of Kyosho Raider Pro front rims.  Oops.  I felt bad.  But I got the tires off.

[nbTMM 433]

I glue mine with CA glue as nothing else will keep the tyres on 1:10 touring car wheels over 60kmh. When the tyres are finished I slice around the tyre sidewalls with a scalpel blade to remove most of the tyre, then tear off as much of the remaining sidewall and glue from the wheel as I can with some pliers. Most of the glue will crack away with pliers as CA glue is quite brittle. Then I mount the wheel to a long M4 bolt and put it in my drill press, running a file against it to remove remaining glue and rubber.

The wheels will last about 3 sets of tyres this way before the wheel bead becomes too damaged or worn down to reliably hold new tyres on due to curbing the wheels when driving, or filing away old glue, or before the wheel spokes crack due to big accidents. Tyre foams can also be reused many times, until too many big chunks have been torn off them when removing tyres due to glue getting on them, or if they get destroyed during a tyre blowout.

I've found it is better not to attempt 'peeling back' the tyre bead to apply glue, especially with fast setting CA glue as you may not get all of the bead seated back together properly before the glue starts to dry, leading to out of round tyres. Clean the beads of the wheels and tyres with alcohol before gluing. When using water thin CA glue just mount the tyre and let gravity and capillary action suck the glue into the bead. If you're worried that the glue isn't going into the bead because the tyres fit too tightly to the wheel you can pinch the tyre against the wheel at various locations with opposing fingers which should cause the bead to open at perpendicular locations and allow the glue to seep in while it is still liquid. Glue one side at a time and let the glue set for at least an hour before flipping them over and doing the other side. Leave them at least a day before driving. 

[Juhunio 6830]

On 9/24/2020 at 7:34 AM, nbTMM said:

I glue mine with CA glue as nothing else will keep the tyres on 1:10 touring car wheels over 60kmh. When the tyres are finished I slice around the tyre sidewalls with a scalpel blade to remove most of the tyre, then tear off as much of the remaining sidewall and glue from the wheel as I can with some pliers. Most of the glue will crack away with pliers as CA glue is quite brittle. Then I mount the wheel to a long M4 bolt and put it in my drill press, running a file against it to remove remaining glue and rubber.

The wheels will last about 3 sets of tyres this way before the wheel bead becomes too damaged or worn down to reliably hold new tyres on due to curbing the wheels when driving, or filing away old glue, or before the wheel spokes crack due to big accidents. Tyre foams can also be reused many times, until too many big chunks have been torn off them when removing tyres due to glue getting on them, or if they get destroyed during a tyre blowout.

I've found it is better not to attempt 'peeling back' the tyre bead to apply glue, especially with fast setting CA glue as you may not get all of the bead seated back together properly before the glue starts to dry, leading to out of round tyres. Clean the beads of the wheels and tyres with alcohol before gluing. When using water thin CA glue just mount the tyre and let gravity and capillary action suck the glue into the bead. If you're worried that the glue isn't going into the bead because the tyres fit too tightly to the wheel you can pinch the tyre against the wheel at various locations with opposing fingers which should cause the bead to open at perpendicular locations and allow the glue to seep in while it is still liquid. Glue one side at a time and let the glue set for at least an hour before flipping them over and doing the other side. Leave them at least a day before driving. 

That all sounds very do-able, thanks so much for such a clear and detailed explanation 👍

[67CamaroSS 304]

I recently tried the boiling water method.  It worked but is labor intensive.  I boiled them for about 10 mins then pulled the tires of the rim, with occasional help from a medium flat head screw driver.  The finish came also off the rim, which, didn't matter to me since I was painting them anyway.

Only reason I even considered it was because they were HPI Vintage VTA wheels, which have become very expensive.  Anything else, I would have just bought new rims.

[Collin 1956]

Hey hey. Somehow I am not really happy with the CA glue I use with my tyres. Its always a big mess. Tried silicone as mentioned but that does not last long on modified motors.

Is there any other alternativ or any better then CA glue? Seems like all available RC tyre glue are CA. So there might be a reason for it. What will be a good CD glue then? It should be reall thin liquid, right? Also it should not harden to fast, right? It would be just great to have a few minutes to pinch and move the rubber until it all sits nicely in the tyre bed bevor the glue is hardenend.

So which glue would fulfill my needs?

 

[Willy iine 18806]

CA should work just fine as long as you use a standard fluid (viscosity) glue.  I pull the sidewall to make a small gap between the bead and wheel, drop CA, pull the side wall to channel superglue evenly into the adjacent area, repeat until full circle.  

[Kol__ 3377]

On 9/12/2020 at 3:57 PM, Juhunio said:

Thankfully no damage done other than to the already low pride levels of a grown man playing with toys alone in a public car park 

Ah man, I think we all know that feeling mate!

[kalsh 44]

On 9/24/2020 at 11:38 AM, Champ85 said:

Careful doing that. Some wheels don't like water that hot and will deform into something more like an oval than a circle.  And once they do that, you ain't getting them round again.  I found out the hard way with a set of Kyosho Raider Pro front rims.  Oops.  I felt bad.  But I got the tires off.

I bet many of us on here have done that. I certainly have to get a set of tires off some rims (can’t remember what rims) and they went oval…tire however perfectly good for another set of rims. I put rubber bands on my off road tires (stock motors however) so they can just be removed very easily when you want to. Suspect no good for on road.

[dmelczer 100]

I'm assuming that most of the posts on this question are regarding plastic rims.  In just about all of my builds I will get aluminum rims.  Would the acetone or other chemicals used to remove glue adversely affect the rim coatings?

[alvinlwh 5895]

1 hour ago, dmelczer said:

I'm assuming that most of the posts on this question are regarding plastic rims.  In just about all of my builds I will get aluminum rims.  Would the acetone or other chemicals used to remove glue adversely affect the rim coatings?

Isn't acetone a paint (nail polish) remover? Probably yes as alum are often clear vanished.

However, you can boil them all day long and they will still be round.

[dmelczer 100]

Totally makes sense, alvinlwh.

Thanks for the reply!

[RC Perspective 511]

Me personally, I use regular CA glue, but only do 5 evenly spaced "dots" around the inside and outside bead.

It makes them much easier to remove when you want to, perhaps only a little cleanup with an exacto knife.

I'm sure you'll run into issues at higher speeds, but at that point I would hope you have switched to foams, or glue the entire bead lol.

I run foams on the speed run chassis, but rubber on the budget/rally chassis, and haven't had an issue with my gluing under 50mph.

-RC Perspective