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Mechanic AH

Challenging TC-01 Formula E body and some completed pics

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I finally completed the TC-01 Formula E build (minus the paint). I can’t believe how challenging the polycarbonate body was! I think it’s what took most of my time, and the least enjoyable part. For those who built a TC-01 Formula E, how did you tackle the shell? Did you use a knife or scissors? Or both? I was worried about using a knife to score and snap because the shell is somewhat thicker. Any tips for the future?

It’s thicker than what I’m used to. I measured it and in some parts it was over .83 mm or more which starts to get close to 1mm. I know the Porsche TA02SW Black Edition shell was around .3+ to .4+ mm thick in some areas. Maybe it sounds a little trivial but to put that in perspective, some fingernails can be around .4 +/- mm thick so when you get close to 1mm that’s like two fingernails thick. Maybe I haven’t built enough Tamiyas to know how thick their polycarbonate can get. But aside from that, there are like 8 shell parts you need to cut out and connect. 

I ended up using curved scissors, a knife, and a tin snip, then a rotary tool to sand, and then manual sanding. Maybe overkill? The good thing from this experience is that now I probably won’t worry too much about other bodies in the future! It’s like an initiation into polycarbonate body building. Are there other Tamiya bodies that are more complex?

Anyway, next up is the paint. In the meantime here are some photos of the work in progress. The frayed ends are just the protective film cover. Sorry I didn’t capture photos of the build but I did a time-lapse video if you’re interested in seeing it.

Here is the time lapse build video link (youtube)

I think I’ll take a break from complex bodies for a little while.

 

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2 hours ago, Mechanic AH said:

I ended up using curved scissors, a knife, and a tin snip, then a rotary tool to sand, and then manual sanding. Maybe overkill?

Hah sounds standard for Tamiya shells!

Looks great so it was all worth it  - well done 👍 

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The Tyrrell P34 is also quite complex with 13 separate polycarbonate pieces that need to be cut out and joined to build the shell and wing, but several of these are flat 2D shapes that are really easy to cut out. I think the Formula E shell has it beaten in terms of shape complexity. 

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40 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

The Tyrrell P34 is also quite complex with 13 separate polycarbonate pieces that need to be cut out and joined to build the shell and wing, but several of these are flat 2D shapes that are really easy to cut out. I think the Formula E shell has it beaten in terms of shape complexity. 

Take my money! 

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6 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

The Tyrrell P34 is also quite complex with 13 separate polycarbonate pieces that need to be cut out and joined to build the shell and wing, but several of these are flat 2D shapes that are really easy to cut out. I think the Formula E shell has it beaten in terms of shape complexity. 

I just took a look at the Tyrell and although I said I wanted to take a break from complex bodies, it got me excited and thought of saving up for it for the next build. Unfortunately, it’s not produced anymore unless thru auctions. One day! What a cool kit.

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@Mechanic AH You can still buy the Tyrrell P34 from online shops. Both Tamico and modellbau-Seidel have the version with the pre-painted body, and Tamico also has the version with the unpainted body. The latter costs a little more, which I guess is interesting.

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2 hours ago, Fuijo said:

@Mechanic AH You can still buy the Tyrrell P34 from online shops. Both Tamico and modellbau-Seidel have the version with the pre-painted body, and Tamico also has the version with the unpainted body. The latter costs a little more, which I guess is interesting.

Not sure about the painted one, but I know the unpainted one is the 40th anniversary edition and comes with a selection of rather nice hop-ups such as a TRF damper, carbon uprights, etc. Maybe this explains the price difference?

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3 hours ago, Fuijo said:

@Mechanic AH You can still buy the Tyrrell P34 from online shops. Both Tamico and modellbau-Seidel have the version with the pre-painted body, and Tamico also has the version with the unpainted body. The latter costs a little more, which I guess is interesting.

Thanks for the tip. I look into that. Maybe the unpainted one might be the one.

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13 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

How do the panels fix together. Double sided tape?

A mix of double sided tape (very thin) and screws.

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24 minutes ago, Mechanic AH said:

A mix of double sided tape (very thin) and screws.

Same as the Tyrrell then! (Although I used Shoe Goo instead of tape on mine.)

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9 hours ago, Mechanic AH said:

A mix of double sided tape (very thin) and screws.

is it possible to use epoxy or something under the paint to join the panels together?

I am trying to avoid using screws

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9 hours ago, novaris said:

is it possible to use epoxy or something under the paint to join the panels together?

I am trying to avoid using screws

I don’t see why not. As long as it’s safe for the polycarbonate material and strong enough to hold the pieces together. The manual for the body is online and maybe take a look at that—to make sure there are no issues.

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