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NulnOilTycoon

QuicRun 1080 WP Crawler ESC in a Bigwig?

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Is there any reason why a Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 WP Crawler ESC would be bad in a buggy?  I'm thinking of putting one in a Bigwig to run on 8.4V Nimh and so I can also make use of the adjustable BEC settings to run a HV servo.  Are there any other brushed ESCs that could do the same thing?

Also, would the Bigwig GT tuned motor be likely overheat running at 8.4V?

Any help and/or experienced opinions would be most appreciated.

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The HW 1080 has several useful features for crawlers, but it would be perfectly fine to install on a buggy with no drawbacks at all. Just about any motor would be fine with 8.4v as it's really not much higher than the 7.2v that most motors are designed for, so I wouldn't worry.

Hope that helped.

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I have two HW 1080. One for my MST CFX (crawler), while the other one is installed in my XV-01. There's a program card that comes with it so you can do a setting you want that will match your car and driving style. The "crawler" in the name is just to emphasize that this cheap ESC can do what a crawler ESC does and can't be done with normal ESCs like the 1060. Features drag brake, no-free-wheeeling-at-neutral and throttle percentage are very important in crawlers but can be disabled when the ESC is used for other kits like on-road, rally or buggies. This ESC is probably the best brushed ESC today.

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16 minutes ago, Nicadraus said:

This ESC is probably the best brushed ESC today.

Agreed, although I would also question whether the small premium is worth it over the 1060. The 1060 is very impressive and can be had for as little as £12! The extra features of the 1080 are nice to have, but in all honestly I've never re-programmed mine, just used it with factory settings.

The 1080 is almost 3x the cost of a 1060 and I would argue that it is not 3x as good for most people's needs...

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2 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Agreed, although I would also question whether the small premium is worth it over the 1060. The 1060 is very impressive and can be had for as little as £12! The extra features of the 1080 are nice to have, but in all honestly I've never re-programmed mine, just used it with factory settings.

The 1080 is almost 3x the cost of a 1060 and I would argue that it is not 3x as good for most people's needs...

So here's my take on both:

1060 - Good out of the box straight forward brushed ESC. Claims to handle up to 12t but many have had problems with just 17t or even 21t. I have 3 of them and one shuts down running 21t which I still need to revive when the capacitors I ordered arrive. My friend's fried his running 21t. F/B or F/R/B setting by jumper tabs. 

1080 - Good out of the box with stock setting. But can still improve if using it for on-road, rally and buggy. The three other features are very important for crawlers. Acceleration percentage, brake percentage and delay, and some more important features that will go with your driving style without the need of a mid-high end TX to be able to program. Plus the neutral reset of the TX that can be done with the ESC's main switch and a button beside it. Larger heatsink too and it looks a lot cooler than the 1060. Lastly, higher amp rating (80 vs 60).

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Thank you all so much for the detailed replies, I think it will be perfect then, it'll look super cool and and should work like a charm.

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With regards running the bigwig on 8.4v:

I have exclusively run 8.4v in my buggies for 30 years without issue.  My current most used buggies have only ever run on 8.4v (my terra scorcher and Avante2001 with a deck post moved to fit the bigger pack). They are the only packs I use full stop.  I just love the performance increase. I guess back 20-30 years ago they were the equivalent of people switching from brushed to brushless today. However there are some caveats:

  • I have mainly been using Novak rooster (100A) or super rooster (320A) ESC's - 16-18 yrs old, expensive to buy (£80'ish back in 2003), 100% reliable & over engineered
  • I have replaced all battery and motor connectors with soldered on high amp bullets (other than the brand new motors I've just fitted as I've got no bullets left eek!)
  • I run cooling fins on my motors (Tamiya genuine alloy TL01 cooling fins)
  • The Terra Scorcher runs a 19T Reedy spec with a 13t pinion (down 2 teeth from the stock 15t pinion)
  • The Avante2001 runs a 13T Dyna Run super touring with a 19t pinion (down 2 teeth from the stock 21t pinion)
  • I use Sanyo 8.4v NiCD packs which are supremely reliable, do not get excessively warm in high current draw situations and give better performance than cheaper packs 
  • The motors will get very hot if you over gear and you will get reduced run times so start by dropping a pinion size, you may need to drop two
  • However you may start to twist dogbones and damage your gearbox if you undergear as you are multiplying the torque which is already increased by using 8.4v

From my GPS testing an 8.4v sanyo NiCd gives my Terra Scorcher and Avante2001 significantly better acceleration and higher top speed over a 7.2v pack - roughly 4mph faster on my buggies but due to the extra maintenance involved (you'll wear out bearings, drive cups, dog bones and gear teeth much faster) my daughters only run 7.2v in their buggies. They can go years without maintenance but mine need an annual strip down and usually a new set of bearings, dogbones, drive cups or UJ driveshafts each year (maybe every 30 hours runtime at a complete guess) but that is the price you pay for increased performance. I dare say the same is true for cars running pokey brushless setups too.

 

EDIT: Just remember that motor brushes wear out faster too, not a great problem with most motors as they only take 10 mins to change and comms can be skimmed or polished too. BUT these days it looks like brushless is a better solution to getting more performance as it probably doesn't have quite so many of the issues. I am looking at going brushless in the Avante2001 soon, prices seem to be more sensible now than they were a decade ago.

 

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@NulnOilTycoon completely off topic but is your username based on Games Workshop Nuln Oil wash? Are you also a Wargamer?

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6 hours ago, mud4fun said:

@NulnOilTycoon completely off topic but is your username based on Games Workshop Nuln Oil wash? Are you also a Wargamer?

Yes @mud4fun I'm afraid so, same name on Twitter and Instagram.  I needed a bit of a change of pace (literally) from GW over the last 6 months or so that I've gotten properly into RC and there seems to be a lot of skills in common with the hobby side of wargaming and RC.

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41 minutes ago, NulnOilTycoon said:

Yes @mud4fun I'm afraid so, same name on Twitter and Instagram.  I needed a bit of a change of pace (literally) from GW over the last 6 months or so that I've gotten properly into RC and there seems to be a lot of skills in common with the hobby side of wargaming and RC.

Yes, similar situation here too, heavy wargamers with a 6x4 gaming table nearly permanent feature of our kitchen and most rooms laden with display cases of figures that we've built and painted over the last 5-6 years. Approx six armies in total and each one approaching 6K points worth is ALOT of painting. We sort of burnt ourselves out. Makes a nice changes to have a blast outside with the RC cars and get some fresh air. :lol:

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On the 1080 topic, it's the perfect general use brushed speedo. The 1060 is OK, but isn't the wonderful piece it's talked up to be. It won't handle a 12t in anything more than a light buggy or touring car, especially in the summer. The 1080 is a nice size, has handled every brushed motor I've tried, runs big servos just fine, and has a great look. I have four in various vehicles, from crawler to buggy, and I wouldn't buy any other brushed ESC.

I have one 1060 in an old RC10 with an ancient Reedy stock motor. It's adequate for now, although it'll be replaced by a mild sensored brushless combo when I get around to restoring the car. I hate the way it looks in that pretty chassis. I'll probably use it later in something cheap and cheerful.

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It's kinda annoying that HW call it a "Crawler" ESC as it somewhat confused me, I thought it might have had some weird speed limiting, thing... the last thing I'd want is a buggy that crawls around.  It's good to know that this is not the case, although it still bothers me that it has "crawler" written on the side of the ESC, I might have to take the sticker off, or position it so you can't see it, (because I'm weird and that kind of thing bothers me).

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As far as I know, crawler ESC's have built in drag brake to stop you rolling back down the hill.. 

But no problem if you can turn that off in the settings.. 

Drag brake is annoying in a car.. 

The boys lunchbox mini does forward rolls when you let off the throttle because of an automatic drag brake.. 

Going to swap them for a programmable esc soon.

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9 hours ago, NulnOilTycoon said:

It's kinda annoying that HW call it a "Crawler" ESC as it somewhat confused me, I thought it might have had some weird speed limiting, thing...

Yes it does. It has drag brake feature and other crawler style features. The reason why they indicated "Crawler". But of course, those features can be disabled with the program card and can be used as a normal ESC. You can also enable/disable reverse too. Multiple throttle, brake and reverse settings plus a lot more. Definitely much better ESC than the 1060.

3 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

As far as I know, crawler ESC's have built in drag brake to stop you rolling back down the hill.. 

But no problem if you can turn that off in the settings.. 

Drag brake is annoying in a car.. 

Annoying it is. When I first tested my XV-01 with the default setting (out of the box) of the 1080, there was 50% drag brake. So I re-programmed it and set it to my liking. But with my CFX, it definitely needs drag brake and very useful.

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I have a Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 in my Kyosho Beetle re-re, it runs great, and you can program it the way you want.

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On 10/5/2020 at 1:53 AM, Big Jon said:

 The 1060 is OK, but isn't the wonderful piece it's talked up to be.

I'd go as far as saying it is junk!! I have two and they are destined for either the bin or the old slowest cars I have.

The braking is absolutely non existent on them, I honestly don't know how people actually use them, unless I happen to have two faulty ones?

I'm used to Novak Roosters and Super Roosters and the braking on them is insane compared to the HW1060.

Curious to know if the 1080 is any better?

I'd like to be able to slow my 30mph buggy down when approaching a hairpin, NOT plough straight on into a concrete curb........ :rolleyes:

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2 hours ago, mud4fun said:

I'd go as far as saying it is junk!! I have two and they are destined for either the bin or the old slowest cars I have.

The braking is absolutely non existent on them, I honestly don't know how people actually use them, unless I happen to have two faulty ones?

I'm used to Novak Roosters and Super Roosters and the braking on them is insane compared to the HW1060.

Curious to know if the 1080 is any better?

I'd like to be able to slow my 30mph buggy down when approaching a hairpin, NOT plough straight on into a concrete curb........ :rolleyes:

Yes! The 1080 has fully functioning brakes! Adjustable frequency, too, to make those five-slot motors even smooooother.

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4 hours ago, mud4fun said:

I'd go as far as saying it is junk!! I have two and they are destined for either the bin or the old slowest cars I have.

The braking is absolutely non existent on them, I honestly don't know how people actually use them, unless I happen to have two faulty ones?

I'm used to Novak Roosters and Super Roosters and the braking on them is insane compared to the HW1060.

Curious to know if the 1080 is any better?

I'd like to be able to slow my 30mph buggy down when approaching a hairpin, NOT plough straight on into a concrete curb........ :rolleyes:

The 1060's brake can be set if your TX has EPA setting. But if none, then you'll have to do with the ESC's standard "brake" which is double flick of the trigger's reverse.

I've owned one of the best brushed ESC back then. The Hara Twister 2.1 was the most popular variant of the KO Propo VFS-1. Bought mine for $200 in 2005 and used it for on-road racing with my HPI Pro4. It was a very power ESC with so much punch and nice braking programmable via PC. It was better than any Novak, LRP and Tekin at that time in its class and many, many racers used the VFS-1 including Marc Reinhardt with the Tamiya Volac. Yes, the Volac is a variant of the VFS-1.

kopropovfs-1.jpg

haratwister22.jpg

tamiyavolac.jpg

 

In my honest opinion, the HW 1080 is today's equivalent to VFS-1 without the expensive pricetag. So much options and settings plus it's powerful enough to drive various brushed motors from crawlers, buggies, rally cars to on-road.

If braking is your concern, the 1080 has variable brake settings and can achieve more than what you ask for. It'll be even more tune-able with brake settings on the mid or higher end TX.

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I use the Quicrun 1080 in a TT-01 and a MF-01x used for street only.  Love them.  Brakes are super strong, Forward is smooth and/or punchy if you like.. can handle more "motor" than either of those chassis can bear at full send.. and many programming options.

IMG_20200921_215913.jpg

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