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salvine

Dyeing parts

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Anybody got tips for dying chassis parts? Been at it for a couple days with poor results. Not sure what type of plastic it is but the knuckles and J parts for TA03/02's just are not absorbing the Dye. Using RIT if that matters.

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when my parts die i have an extraordinary place i bury them.:o

Yes certain plastics just refuse to dye, some companies make certain parts to be dyed.

post some pics so we can see the intensity of the colors, you may have to lower or raise PH levels, or it's that type of plastic and it will not matter what you do to make it so called deeper.

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Nylon accepts Rit dye very well , but alot of these parts are ABS  - and dye will not take normally. I have seen some people use Acetone with the rit dye/water mix, but the results are still not stellar

Look up some videos on DYing ABS plastic and judge for yourself - I always use a piece of the spare plastic holding the parts together in the kit to see If they parts will dye or not. 

Sometimes, we just have to accept paint if possible. Good luck!

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I guess these parts are ABS. Tried to take some of the shine off and make the surface able to accept dye by a soak in lacquer thinner. I tried a sample in MEK but that was too hot.

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@salvine what color are you going for? I can't tell which sprue is J, seems to differ on the various TA-02 variants. But the red parts are available as blue and dark silver.

 

https://tamiyabase.com/chassis/55-ta02#all-ta02-variants

 

Edited by isomer1
adding hyperlink

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11 hours ago, isomer1 said:

@salvine what color are you going for? I can't tell which sprue is J, seems to differ on the various TA-02 variants. But the red parts are available as blue and dark silver.

 


https://tamiyabase.com/chassis/55-ta02#all-ta02-variants

 

Black. J parts usually refers to the specific parts that came with the TA02/03 FRP chassis sets. TA03 parts are very hard to come by as most have suffered cracking or damage and Tamiya has yet to re re-release them as they did for the 02

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JUST ONE! tip I can give you all. Whenever you use dying powder, mix it up with warm water outside your flat or in a room where you can mess around and use a masc or hold your breath on while pouring the powder into the water.

In my kitchen, you have a lot of tiny black dots on some surfaces even some meter away from the oven where I did the dying process. This pigments can be a big, big mess.

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I have found a few videos for ABS and harder plastics. One guy did yo-yos. I'll report back. Looks like he mixed Acetone with water 2:1 I'll try on some scrap and see how it goes.

 

 

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Not sure what this plastic is made of but wow. Put it in straight acetone with the dye. No water added and still hardly any change in color. Parts get slightly soft meaning you can scrape the surface with a sharp object but certainly not dissolving like when my dad dropped a screwdriver in a bucket of the stuff as a kid. Tried straight MEK too with little effect.

 

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ABS gets soft by Aceton. Usually nylon parts are used to dye. I would not put my ABS parts into an aceton bath, unlike I want to make 3D prints slick but then its only the steam of the aceton and not the liquit itself.

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