WT-01 Essential Upgrades

[Jpmdly 1]

Hi guys, about to purchase the Amarok WT-01N. What are the suggested upgrades i need? It will be my first time building an off-road rc. Thanks!

[mman2005 428]

Good choice. Personally I would say only need the following:

• Replace screw pins for stainless shafts (53301)

• Quick release battery holder (53346)

Enjoy! 👍

[Busdriver 1682]

Bearings

[Busdriver 1682]

I have one and its great fun. I have  a 13.5t brushless motor in it and it performs really well. I have just done a long arm conversion on it to make it a WT01 rather than the N version. Still looks good just more stable. I think I need some grippier tyres especially for running on grass. The wheels in the picture are Dynahead  and are even worse than the stock ones. I havent got any pictures of the wide version yet

Edited October 4, 2020 by Busdriver
add picture

[Jpmdly 1]

What bearings are compatible for the WT-01? Can’t seem to find it on the tamiya matching list. 

[Busdriver 1682]

Try this link. https://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1612.

Its 16x1150 bearings. You will have to dismantle the gearbox to fit them as it comes ready assembled

[Jpmdly 1]

Thanks, Busdriver! How about the dampers? Which size/length is compatible?

 

[Busdriver 1682]

Sorry no idea. Mines running kit pogo sticks

[Meobromon 35]

I started a build thread recently (in the The Builds section of the forum), here is the rundown for 'upgrades' specifically:

- Replace stock plastic servo mounts with alloy ones, or you can 3D print this one as well (uses chassis rails and double-sided tape). The stock mounts wiggle under stress - while the car is on the ground, you can turn left/right and see it.

-  Gearbox mounts are prone to cracking/breaking, it would be good to replace stock self-tapping screws with slightly longer ones. If you plan on running it hard, you could consider drilling the holes and fitting 50mm M3 screws/rods, should make them indestructible.

- Shock towers - you can DIY some yourself or buy GPM/Yeah racing ones (they look exactly the same). If extra ride height is not what you are after, there are WR-02 shock towers that are about the same height as stock, but allow to install the shocks onto the tower instead of plastic mount. Any oil-filled shocks would be better than friction shocks.

- Switching to 4WD or 4WS is very simple - basically replicate the rear (for 4WD) or front (for 4WS) depending on what you want. I am trying to get my rig to run 25-30mph so 4WS is not really for, but it would do nice donuts if you go that route.

- Try to use bolt + nut anywhere possible - upper arm chassis mounts (replacing step screws), upper shock mounts

- Battery compartment hugs the Ni-mh batteries really tightly, so if you buy a round shaped lipo, you may have to file the compartment slightly. Shouldn't affect rigidity as I have done that as well.

Lastly there may be some carbon chassis available again soon! There were tons (well, at least 3-4 designs) about 10-15 years ago. Once I complete my file, I will likely share it publicly so that everyone else can CNC their own or modify it further.

 

 

[Grumpy pants 1921]

A decent servo and alloy servo posts would be my time.

 

[-=Jeff=- 22]

I have 3 of these..  all are dual motor all have ball bearings through out

- One is a stock dual hunter

- One has a Proline VW Beetle body with Traxxas XL5 ESC

- One is currently a narrow track with Wild Willy Wheels, Traxxas XL5 ESC , shocks from a Traxxas ( I forget the model)and Clodbuster body

[Badcrumble 1924]

I like your three, @-=Jeff=-, we also have three!

I do like the stance of your Clod-bodied 'Hunter. And the wheels of the fluoro one!

All of ours have the stock body - in blue, red and pink.

Blue is my son's go-to rig which is stock and we run in the back garden and the beach. After the last beach run (a year ago now?! That's 2020 for you!) we cracked a gearbox so we swapped the body to another chassis (stole from red body) and stripped the dirty and broken one down for a rebuild. Number three (pink) has also been stripped and partially rebuilt to be used as a loaner. 

All rebuilds have bearings in the gearboxes, beach runners will have bushings at the corners and at least one of them will have upgraded shocks towers and dampers. Also on the cards are metal servo posts or 3D printed servo cages

https://www.shapeways.com/product/SK6JQBKSY/wt01-wr01-servo-mount

I bought 55T cans to slow the rigs down for the kids bit my son insists on silver cans in his and his ability has developed to where he can cope just fine.

[-=Jeff=- 22]

@Badcrumble

Thanks, Pink one is my Daughter's, Yellow is my Son's I bought these 8 or 9 years ago. My son is not really into it anymore I don't think, he prefers his drone. The Yellow wheels are from a Blackfoot I believe. 2 of the Chassis are Blackfoot that I converted to 4WD. I still have the front dummy boxes from them if I ever decide to go to 2WD. I wanted to Lock the Diffs in the rear and use them in the snow, but never got around to it. When I was a kid i had a Clodbuster I ended up selling in my 20's (should have kept it) as it was the Original. 

Anyway, I have recently purchased a p407 and have gotten these out, specifically the Clod-Hunter.. I am going back to the wide stance as narrow stance it not quite what I was after. I will still use the Wild Willy Wheels and lower the body.. I will take  picture of the truck when done. I also need to get a set of LEDs for the Headlights of the Clod Body and light those up with the Roll bar. 

 

 

[-=Jeff=- 22]

 

changed up the Clod-Hunter. Wide stance and dropped the body down as far as I could.. need to get a new lower Diff bumper/Skid plate