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67CamaroSS

Stuntman Mike's Death Proof Nova for Drag Chassis

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Always liked the movie and when Pro-line released the body, I had to do one.

This started as a Pro-Line Tough Black body that came in black shiny lexan. It was trimmed and I masked the windows and sprayed the outside with a matte clear dull coat from Spaz Stix. Bumpers painted on the outside. Also added the correct Texas plates. Its on a Slash Drag Chassis.

 

DeathProof1.jpg

DeathProof3.jpg

 

deathproofplatefront.jpg

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Very sweet, really diggin' it one of my projects is based on a 57 vette body a buddy just hacked the badword out of about 30 years ago, your paint gave me new motivations, i thought i would sand the body dull and use my air brush on the outside to fix and patina/race rash it, i want kind of an oval bomber wasteland warrior car.

 

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Nice Nova, love the big Traxxas Funny Car tires with the yellow Goodyear lettering.  

I bought one of the JConcepts Grand National bodies when they came out and while I dont have much interest in actually racing, I need a chassis to put it on.  I thought the easiest would be just to buy a DR10, but might be cheaper to do a Traxxas conversion.  There is so much info out there and not all of it it easy to sort through (especially on Traxxas forums).   Is there a guide on what you need to convert a Slash (or Bandit) with a parts list?  Or is it as easy as just throwing drag tires on one of the chassis?

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You usually need to narrow the width to fit the newer drag bodies.  Some of the old Parma bodies for the slash are very wide but they nearly impossible to find now.

Unless you already have doner Slash, I would go the DR10 route.  Buying all the parts you need really starts to add up.   Off the top of my head, you need Bandit rear arms and links or turnbuckle, maybe front arms, depending on the body you are using (which may also require new steering rods and links), new front body mounts and wheels and tires and maybe even a wheelie bar.  The shocks are easy to lower with some spacers. 

But all of than can get close to or more than $100 bucks, which is my I suggest the DR10.  However, if you prefer the Slash route:

JConcepts has some good info

https://www.jconcepts.net/garage/projects/street-eliminator-concept

This video is also helpful.

 

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Thanks for the info, I figured the parts would add up to more than the cost of a new DR10 kit.  It's pretty reasonable at $200, might just go that route and I get to build a kit which is always enjoyable.  I do like the idea of using a Tamiya, but the body I have is massive.  Funny, when it arrived I was shocked at how big it was.  

Like I said, probably not going to compete but would be nice to have a compatible power system if I ever decide to get in some local races.  What are people using in thes no prep cars?  Obviously brushless, I would assume sensord setups?  What kv/turn motors are people using?

 

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Yes, the bodies are massive compared to the 190/200mm we're used to.  See pic

unnamed.thumb.jpg.2d7c28673c423c362c56ae41253e9a39.jpg

The DR10  comes with rims but doesn't come with tires but it is still a great deal, especially since you already have a body.

Yes, sensored brushless, usually a low turn like, 3.5-5.5. Here is a rough conversion chart

https://www.rccaraction.com/brushless-motors-turns-vs-kv-rating/#visitor_pref_pop

You are also seeing a lot more drag-specific motors out there now.

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Yea, I was just going to get some Proline Hoosiers or something like that, I see JConcepts has tires too.  I do really like the TRX Funny car rear wheels, but they're not as easy to find as they used to be.

Wow, thats a low turn motor.  Thick the closest thing I have is a 4600kv Castle system, I'll have to get something else.  Didn't even know they were making drag specific stuff, just saw the Trinity Drag Master motors, that looks like a good option.  Can't image I'd need anything crazy ESC wise, will probably just get a decent Hobbywing.  

Most likely wont get around to this for a little bit, but thanks for all the info.  Btw, that Cuda body is awesome.

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On 1/22/2021 at 8:12 PM, 67CamaroSS said:

Yes, the bodies are massive compared to the 190/200mm we're used to.  See pic

unnamed.thumb.jpg.2d7c28673c423c362c56ae41253e9a39.jpg

The DR10  comes with rims but doesn't come with tires but it is still a great deal, especially since you already have a body.

Yes, sensored brushless, usually a low turn like, 3.5-5.5. Here is a rough conversion chart

https://www.rccaraction.com/brushless-motors-turns-vs-kv-rating/#visitor_pref_pop

You are also seeing a lot more drag-specific motors out there now.

Those two bodies are different scale correct?

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The painted one is a 1/10 200mm HPI body

The larger one is a Proline No Prep Drag body., designed for the Traxxas Slash or Associated DR10. They are called 1/10 but are really closer to a 1/8 scales I would say.

 

 

 

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On 1/31/2021 at 9:07 PM, 67CamaroSS said:

The painted one is a 1/10 200mm HPI body

The larger one is a Proline No Prep Drag body., designed for the Traxxas Slash or Associated DR10. They are called 1/10 but are really closer to a 1/8 scales I would say.

 

 

 

Not trying to derail your thread but ive been having some thoughts on RC car scale after 2020 covid had me step away from my large scale gas stuff back to rc10 1/10th vintage stuff, i asked about the 2 bodies you posted as i didnt know i what scale they were but i knew they were different.

And since your screename gives me a clue you are a rull size gearhead you might see what im seeing, my full size car is a 69 vette its flared and a 15x10 ansen with 295 50 fills it out old school sweet, however, if i go 1/10th scale a 15x10 rim and that almost ft wide 295 is a 1.5 wheel an inch wide which looks down right dinky on there compared to say a 2 + inch wide rear tire that if scaled up real size simply wouldnt fit under the rear of a stock c3 full size vette at over 2 ft wide.

I guess i never back in the day realized how oversized rc tires were in porportion to their full sized counterparts.

Back to your OT Nova, you say it was black and you used matte coat on the outside but the body looks grey more than flat black?

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1 hour ago, The13bats said:

 

Back to your OT Nova, you say it was black and you used matte coat on the outside but the body looks grey more than flat black?


yes I love cars, in every scale.  My RC preferences tend to mimic my 1:1 tastes and I really like American Muscle from the 60s to the modern stuff.

Back to the Nova, Proline calls them “tuffcolor” I think. It’s a blacked molded glossy lexan, see pic below. I used Spaz Stix Matte Spray which turned it into a bit of a dark grey although the pics show it a little lighter than it really is.

ive also used the spray on the black hood and spoilers I painted on this Challenger SRT392. it came out more of a true flat black, and I was very happy with it.

 

BA3A074B-FA88-4947-AECF-7A23C01BF2BA.jpeg

73C7BB45-CDE1-41E0-AEE9-6D4BCC605B40.jpeg

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