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Dressed4succes

DF-03 project advise needed

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I have aquired this building project from a family member. Its all finished now and here is the final result.

I have equipped the model with: 

- 540 sports tuned Tamiya engine
-standard servo, 
-Graupner GM6 sender 40 mhz

- I run 5000 MHA NIMH accus with a brushed motor/ standard ESC

ITs all very very basic. I am looking for a nice upgrade advice

- what kind of brushless / ESC would you recommand ( 100$ max)
-Sender upgrade needed?
-Is it possible to add lights? What do i need for this

 

Thanks a lot!

Fer, Netherlands, Europa. 

 

 

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3dc8cfcf-5885-4c62-be1e-b03c42f63ada.jpg

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Very nice buggy BUT loving the Lego JCB behind even more, I had that same one (or very similar) many year ago, back in the late 80's?, blast from the past! :)

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I'm afraid it's a bit more involved... To fully maximize brushless, you also need a LiPo battery. And a new battery connector too.  

Sport Tuned motor would use up to 1.5 Amp at burst.  Steady draw would be like 0.8A.  That's perfect for NiMH batteries.  However, brushless can draw as much as 6A at burst, 2A steady.  NiMH just cannot supply that much amp. 

[ 5000mAh is total energy of your battery.  The draw I'm talking about is how fast the battery gives that energy at once.  LiPo can supply 8-10A easily, which means it can drain 80% energy in about 20 minutes.  NiMH just cannot supply that much energy that fast.  Also Tamiya connector was designed for 1A, up to about 2A for a very short time.  This is why LiPo batteries come with Deans or XT60 connectors]  

Of course, 10.5 turn will definitely go faster than Sport Tuned.  But it's like starving a marathon runner.  He can run, just not as well as he is capable.   

=================================

Having said that, I would recommend at least 80A ESC.  Quicrun 10BL120 is a good 120A ESC that can handle most sensored brushless motors.  You can get one for $50-$60.  I'd say 10.5 turn sensored motor should be fast enough for most occasions.  There are $45 ones out there, so the combination would fit the bill.  I would even limit the speed because I'm comfortable at 13.5t or even Sport Tuned.  But that's just me.  

Alternatively, if you happened to have Tamiya TBLE02S, it could handle 13.5t sensored motor.  That's what I use, because I only have to spend about $45 on a motor.  And you could spend the rest on a LiPo and a charger.  

You can search "RC light bucket" or "RC light bar" or "RC lights" on ebay.  You can directly connect the lead to the receiver. 

 

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Great to see another DI up and running!

The other main consideration is space. The DI tub is tight for room, and the shell sits quite tight to the tub, so my experience was that there isn't enough room to get a brushless ESC, all the motor wires, and the battery lead into the tub and under the shell without the shell riding up on one side. I had to shift the receiver over beside the servo, mount the ESC (Hobbywing 10BL120) on its side and cut the motor wires quite short to get it to work at all, and that was under an Avante II shell which is bit higher than the DI

spacer.png

In the end I took it all out and put in a brushed Hobbywing ESC and Tamiya SS BZ motor. The ESC is a much easier fit, the receiver fits beside it and the motor's about the same RPM as a 10.5T / 3600Kv Hobbywing brushless motor on 7.2V Nimh

spacer.png

Everything just feels less cramped and stressed. Just something else to consider!

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Is that a Lego pneumatic 8851? My first introduction into pneumatics! 😁

 

Before you start to upgrade to a more power motor, you need to upgrade the rear ball diff (plus add a slipper clutch, if funds permit), the 2 piece plastic rear outdrives just aren't up to it. But strangely, the fronts are, so -

Looking like RCmart have a sale on (wish I hadn't seen that....😬🤦‍♂️, I didn't get hit with import duty to the UK last time)

Slipper clutch - https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-df-03-slipper-clutch-set-53925-00019794 

Fit another pair of 1 piece steel, front outdrives in the rear, - (#9808059 ), direct replacement.

https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-df03-dark-impact-front-differential-joint-l-and-r-1pr-black-19808059-00073106

Tungsten carbide diff balls (I used Schumacher U7281) , I'd suggest replacing the fronts too.

https://www.racing-cars.com/spares/1-10th-4wd-buggy/cat-xls-masami/tungsten-carbide-balls-3mm-pk12-u7281

Schumacher diff lube - U1301

https://www.racing-cars.com/gt12/atom-2/silicone-diff-lube-pot-u1301

If the plates have been glued, you may need diff plates too (Don't need to glue on the steel outdrives) 

Tamiya 50880 TA04 plates

https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-ta04-ball-differential-plate-set-50880-00014383

Looking at the price of diff springs, may aswell, while it's in bits....

https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-diff-spring-sv-49299-00029185 

 

The brushless, budget, Skyrc leopard V2 60A ESC fits nice, and a 9t motor works ok. But I'd be tempted to gear it down a bit (smaller pinion,  05 mod pinions on offer at rcmart too.....🙄

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2 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

Is that a Lego pneumatic 8851? My first introduction into pneumatics! 😁

 

Before you start to upgrade to a more power motor, you need to upgrade the rear ball diff (plus add a slipper clutch, if funds permit), the 2 piece plastic rear outdrives just aren't up to it. But strangely, the fronts are, so -

Looking like RCmart have a sale on (wish I hadn't seen that....😬🤦‍♂️, I didn't get hit with import duty to the UK last time)

Slipper clutch - https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-df-03-slipper-clutch-set-53925-00019794 

Fit another pair of 1 piece steel, front outdrives in the rear, - (#9808059 ), direct replacement.

https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-df03-dark-impact-front-differential-joint-l-and-r-1pr-black-19808059-00073106

Tungsten carbide diff balls (I used Schumacher U7281) , I'd suggest replacing the fronts too.

https://www.racing-cars.com/spares/1-10th-4wd-buggy/cat-xls-masami/tungsten-carbide-balls-3mm-pk12-u7281

Schumacher diff lube - U1301

https://www.racing-cars.com/gt12/atom-2/silicone-diff-lube-pot-u1301

If the plates have been glued, you may need diff plates too (Don't need to glue on the steel outdrives) 

Tamiya 50880 TA04 plates

https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-ta04-ball-differential-plate-set-50880-00014383

Looking at the price of diff springs, may aswell, while it's in bits....

https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-diff-spring-sv-49299-00029185 

 

The brushless, budget, Skyrc leopard V2 60A ESC fits nice, and a 9t motor works ok. But I'd be tempted to gear it down a bit (smaller pinion,  05 mod pinions on offer at rcmart too.....🙄

Thanks!!.... you have basically just helped me source my next build!!

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26 minutes ago, DPR250R said:

Thanks!!.... you have basically just helped me source my next build!!

Urm, your wallet might not thank me.....🙄😂

 

I'd swap the drive shafts too, mainly as you loose the dogbones if you pop a turnbuckle! 

These have served me well for years, but remove the grub screw, and loctite it, they tend to work loose, but apart from that, can't fault them.

https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-g45-universal-steel-swing-shaft-for-tamiya-df03-tt02b-df03-015v2-00026617

Although ,just replaced them with the hardened version, only because the dogbone part had worn -

https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-spring-steel-shaft-for-tamiya-df03-wild-dagger-twin-detonator-double-blaze-top-force-hotshot-df03-015sp-00085116

Also, adjustable turnbuckles, a bit more meat on them, and of course, adjustable (Although you'll need a camber gauge,  but cheap enough off eBay).

https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-df03-hard-turnbuckle-shaft-set-53940-00021789

 

Maybe cooling bars -

https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-df-03-heat-sink-bar-set-53924-00019473

 

And a set of bearings for the steering bell cranks

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264709058682

There's things like, alloy steering arms, alloy or carbon shock towers, alloy wishbones, but I'd only do them as and when you break stuff (or get them on offer...)

 

Depending on the servo, a solid servo horn helps reduce the slack of the Tamiya servo saver, but only if you've a strong, metal geared servo.

 

Should be enough to keep you going for a while.....🙄

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6 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

That Mod is getting hard to do these days!!

And I did say, keep you going ....for a while 🙄😂😂

I don't have access to a lathe... is the piece from RW Racing just a press fit? Must say... the custom work on this site is amazing. 

Anyway... not sure I would take it that far right off the bat. I think the initial list you shared is a fair start... and will keep me and my wallet busy for a while for sure! 

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3 hours ago, DPR250R said:

I don't have access to a lathe... is the piece from RW Racing just a press fit?

I used a helicopter pinion, as it was off the shelf and fit (kind of) ,  but you can't buy those these days, so @Juhunio had a private company (RW racing) make some to spec, and yes, pressed on with a vice. I heated mine to expand it a touch, and used a hydraulic press because, well , I could 😁

The main gear is aluminium, so they will wear, but it's only really a concern running low turn brushless ,and 3s+ lipo. There's a gear cover at the top, that's seconds to remove, so a wee look at the gear every now and then will be enough, if its got (not too much) grease on, it'll be fine.

If you do those few mods, it should give you hours of trouble free use, even under brushless and lipo power 👍

 

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Also, 

If you've not dealt with ball diffs before, they can seem a bit daunting , but there's not that much to them.

Here's a vid by Tristram Neal, whos the race engineer for Schumacher. It's not a Dark Impact diff, but it's not miles away, and some good tips for building a ball diff.

 

 

 

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On 10/24/2020 at 1:30 AM, DPR250R said:

I don't have access to a lathe... is the piece from RW Racing just a press fit? Must say... the custom work on this site is amazing. 

Anyway... not sure I would take it that far right off the bat. I think the initial list you shared is a fair start... and will keep me and my wallet busy for a while for sure! 

Yes, the part from RW Racing is a press fit, as long as you have a vice and a few m5 nuts (and maybe a torx wrench head to push the old gear on to) it's straightforward enough

If you do decide to do it, drop RW Racing a line and they might have the part in stock, if not they'll likely do a run at some point. The spec is:

  • 0.6m
  • 18T
  • 5mm bore
  • 12mm teeth width
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20 hours ago, Dressed4succes said:

Brushless set arrived

D262FAB3-03F9-426F-B86B-4B4536B5AD14.jpeg

I'd be swapping the tamiya plug, they're not well known for their higher power coping capabilities!!

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Here some pics of WIP

Engine brushless now 4300 KV 60a ESC

2s 5200 MAH lipo

Lights

Hardened steel front and rear diffs

Underway slipper clutch. tnx a ton Wooders

Road tyres

 

 

IMG_1269.JPG

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