Advice on M-02 and TL-01 chassis? Worth it?

[Fabia130vRS 2098]

6 hours ago, Mechanic AH said:

Thanks guys! Really appreciate the feedback. @Carmine A I like your enthusiasm and optimism in regards to the M chassis and I hope you can complete all the Ms from 01-08. If I do get/build one, I'll probably keep the motor stock like @Fabia130vRS or put in something like a Lightly Tuned motor. I guess they're just like older 1:1 cars that get over taken by newer ones in terms of mechanical innovation and improvements--but hopefully they have some character.

The stock motor is 27T a silver can, I have a newer kind of motor, new motors have external brushes and bearings where the shaft from the rotor sits, while the silver can has bushings and internal brushes.

 

any brushed motor could do fine, I even think with my 13T motor (which is considered a higher rpm motor) I should use a 16T pinion instead of 18T.

 

Edit: since we talk so much about brittle plastic, I fixed a few spots on this chassis with this method and it works better then anybody could imagine.

super glue, add it where necessary and then make a layer over it. While still wet add soda bicarbonate for cooking, it will dry immediately . And repeat this 1once or twice. It will look like on the picture above, the white thing above gears. Bomb proof.

[Mad Ax 9313]

My only experience with the M01 / M02 is with my M01/02 hybrid - that's an M01 front-end plastic-welded to an M02 back-end (essentially the ends are identical, they just swap the gearbox and the dummy suspension mount to make the FWD M01 into a RWD M02.)

I run a Saturn 20 in both gearboxes - so that's a 20 turn brushed motor at each end.  Acceleration is blinding even on the highest gearing although it probably wants 1.9 touring wheels to up the FDR that little bit more and really make the most of it.  I've only run it hard once, at a small outdoor track last year.  With the stock mono-shock and no sway bars I expected it to grip-roll at every corner but it was remarkably stable.  I found I could run it really hard without it flipping over.

I have a gear diff in both ends with no putty.  If I was going to race it (which I can't because it isn't eligible for any class, being twin-motor) I would probably skip the ball diff and add putty.

Steering is sloppy as badword and the plastic-on-plastic swivel makes it sticky too, so it's very hard to trim for straight running.  It will get a lot of attention at some point as I try to fabricate a better steering system, but it's been off my radar for a long time.

[berman 5315]

I like the M01/2 because it has some quirky differences over the rest of the M chassis range. I don't drive mine a lot, but i think it goes pretty good for what it is. Mine has some of the Tamiya upgrades:

TA03 Ball diff

Top Force Aluminium Pressure Plate Set 

Tungsten carbide balls 

Hollow Carbon Gear Shafts

Alloy Steering Set

Turnbuckle Steering Rod

Alloy Motor Heatsink

Low Friction Alloy Damper set 

Lightweight King Pins

M-chassis Universals 

M-chassis Stabiliser Set

M-chassis Bearing Set

M-chassis Battery Holder 

Reinforced freewheel axles 

Fluorine Hard coated pinion

 

[Fabia130vRS 2098]

I still need to find a M01 for my 90s Mini Cooper chassis. Its a real production from the 90s. 

[67CamaroSS 304]

23 hours ago, Carmine A said:

I've seen the 4-Door Sedan at 225mm..... 

Actually I've never SEEN a 510 Coupe. I would LOVE to have one, because my Dad had one in the mid 70's. He used to let me DRIVE around Kadena AFB, Philippines (I was 11!!) 😜 

There's a Memory I'm anxious to recreate. 

EDIT: I wonder why no M03 - besides the Drive at the WRONG end....

The HPI Datsun 510 is a 225mm. Its also a 2-door

[Carmine A 2046]

7 hours ago, berman said:

I like the M01/2 because it has some quirky differences over the rest of the M chassis range. I don't drive mine a lot, but i think it goes pretty good for what it is. Mine has some of the Tamiya upgrades:

Thank you!! That's the first look I've had of the pair. There is a quirky look to them, which is quintessential Tamiya!! 

Do the wider Chassis offer any advantage/disadvantage? It at least looks like a better way to package the Electronics. 

..... I wonder if anyone is working on 3D Printed Suspension and Steering Improvements for these. 😊  I mentioned that I want all 8 M Chassis Cars, but I Drive EVERYTHING. No Shelf Queens! 

[Carmine A 2046]

2 hours ago, 67CamaroSS said:

The HPI Datsun 510 is a 225mm. Its also a 2-door

THANKS! Forgot about that one. Finding one under $50 won't be easy, but it's worth a shot.

[berman 5315]

1 hour ago, Carmine A said:

Thank you!! That's the first look I've had of the pair. There is a quirky look to them, which is quintessential Tamiya!! 

Do the wider Chassis offer any advantage/disadvantage? It at least looks like a better way to package the Electronics. 

..... I wonder if anyone is working on 3D Printed Suspension and Steering Improvements for these. 😊  I mentioned that I want all 8 M Chassis Cars, but I Drive EVERYTHING. No Shelf Queens! 

Yeah, love the flawed monoshock design and the helper springs on the suspension etc. 

Yes and no, hard to make it look neat that's for sure.

I drive all mine, apart from the M08 which isn't finished (well, none of them are) and the M07 which I have yet to acquire.

[Mechanic AH 581]

16 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:

The stock motor is 27T a silver can, I have a newer kind of motor, new motors have external brushes and bearings where the shaft from the rotor sits, while the silver can has bushings and internal brushes.

 

any brushed motor could do fine, I even think with my 13T motor (which is considered a higher rpm motor) I should use a 16T pinion instead of 18T.

 

Edit: since we talk so much about brittle plastic, I fixed a few spots on this chassis with this method and it works better then anybody could imagine.

super glue, add it where necessary and then make a layer over it. While still wet add soda bicarbonate for cooking, it will dry immediately . And repeat this 1once or twice. It will look like on the picture above, the white thing above gears. Bomb proof.

Before I read everything I was wondering what that white powdery substance was. Lol.

[Carmine A 2046]

2 minutes ago, Mechanic AH said:

Before I read everything I was wondering what that white powdery substance was. Lol.

......... well sometimes we work really late on these things!!! LMAO 😳😂😄

[Mechanic AH 581]

10 hours ago, berman said:

I like the M01/2 because it has some quirky differences over the rest of the M chassis range. I don't drive mine a lot, but i think it goes pretty good for what it is. Mine has some of the Tamiya upgrades:

TA03 Ball diff

Tungsten carbide balls 

Alloy Steering Set

Turnbuckle steering rod

Alloy motor heatsink

Low Friction Alloy Damper set 

Lightweight King Pins

M-chassis universals 

M-chassis Stabiliser Set

M-chassis Bearing Set

M-chassis Battery Holder 

Reinforced freewheel axles 

Fluorine Hard coated pinion

 

@berman those look good and I like what you've done. I'm probably set on getting a M-02 because I just ordered low friction dampers (saw a good deal on it). I think the other upgrades are now hard to find, unfortunately. For the viscosity/oil are you using Tamiya and did you use hard (#800, 900, or 1000)? And did you notice any difference with the TA03 Ball diff? Thanks.

[Carmine A 2046]

17 minutes ago, Mechanic AH said:

@berman ..... For the viscosity/oil are you using Tamiya and did you use hard (#800, 900, or 1000)? And did you notice any difference with the TA03 Ball diff? Thanks.

My Opinion.... BECAUSE they're Monoshocks, is actually go 900, 1000, or THICKER. 

And if you can find (or make out of Piano Wire) thicker Swaybars... I'd definitely go thicker on front.

[berman 5315]

4 hours ago, Mechanic AH said:

@berman those look good and I like what you've done. I'm probably set on getting a M-02 because I just ordered low friction dampers (saw a good deal on it). I think the other upgrades are now hard to find, unfortunately. For the viscosity/oil are you using Tamiya and did you use hard (#800, 900, or 1000)? And did you notice any difference with the TA03 Ball diff? Thanks.

I have #500 in it,  I haven't tried any others weights yet. I doubt the monoshock does a lot to be honest. The ball diff needs rebuilding, it came in the car second hand and the balls are flat and notchy, I have the parts to rebuild it, just need to find the time, Also waiting on a new gear set just to make it 100%

[DeadMeat666 1675]

6 hours ago, Mechanic AH said:

@berman those look good and I like what you've done. I'm probably set on getting a M-02 because I just ordered low friction dampers (saw a good deal on it). I think the other upgrades are now hard to find, unfortunately. For the viscosity/oil are you using Tamiya and did you use hard (#800, 900, or 1000)? And did you notice any difference with the TA03 Ball diff? Thanks.

I recently built an M02, and the upgrades are all available/ have modern alternatives, except for the stabilizer set, the steering set, and the battery holder. Let me know if you want details.

[Carmine A 2046]

3 hours ago, DeadMeat666 said:

I recently built an M02, and the upgrades are all available/ have modern alternatives, except for the stabilizer set, the steering set, and the battery holder. Let me know if you want details.

Thanks for that. I honestly wasn't sure. I'm going to also need as much information as I can get, if I can acquire a M01 and M02. 

I can really see, like on my old Hotshot and Fox, with the single Transverse Shock only really giving less than 50% Damping on each Wheel - needing VERY thick Shock Oil.... 

Am I wrong about that too? 

I had to go to 900 CST before I noticed ANY Damping on my Hotshot.  In my experience - thicker Swaybars should be considered a MUST for smooth cornering. 

[Mechanic AH 581]

11 hours ago, DeadMeat666 said:

I recently built an M02, and the upgrades are all available/ have modern alternatives, except for the stabilizer set, the steering set, and the battery holder. Let me know if you want details.

@DeadMeat1966 Thanks. If you don't mind, I'm curious. I think I've only scratched the surface on researching upgrades. The ones I'm quite interested in are upgrades that would improve the chassis from a durability and performance standpoint. Not so much on acceleration or top end speed, but more on handling—I personally think if I wanted pure performance I would just need to go with a newer and practical chassis.

So far, I have ordered low friction dampers. Saw some aluminum uprights but they're probably more for decoration. As of now, aside from ball bearings, 60D tires, the only other thing I'm eyeing is a ball diff from the Manta Ray. Any info would be helpful :).

 

*Forgot to ask, are there other standout parts from different chassis that works on an M-02?

[DeadMeat666 1675]

4 hours ago, Mechanic AH said:

@DeadMeat1966 Thanks. If you don't mind, I'm curious. I think I've only scratched the surface on researching upgrades. The ones I'm quite interested in are upgrades that would improve the chassis from a durability and performance standpoint. Not so much on acceleration or top end speed, but more on handling—I personally think if I wanted pure performance I would just need to go with a newer and practical chassis.

So far, I have ordered low friction dampers. Saw some aluminum uprights but they're probably more for decoration. As of now, aside from ball bearings, 60D tires, the only other thing I'm eyeing is a ball diff from the Manta Ray. Any info would be helpful :).

 

*Forgot to ask, are there other standout parts from different chassis that works on an M-02?

Sorry I replied a little later than I would usually, but you quoted a different DeadMeat so I didn't get any notification 

 

Here's the list of hopups I installed on my NIB M02 build that I finished very recently. Those who frequent the "what have you done today" thread will be familiar with the image (but not the list of hopups!):

58197 M02L Porsche Boxster

From ebay:
53235 M-CHASSIS STAINLESS STEEL SUSPENSION SHAFT SET (to replace the screw-pins, which put undue stress on the shiny plastic of the suspension arms)
53236 M-Chassis Bushing Set
53253 M-CHASSIS ALUMINUM RACING STEERING SET
53239 M01/02 STABILIZER set (this one was hard to find, and I only found a used but in great condition set)
5050011/5050012 7795004 Tamiya M-Chassis Spring Set (I bought them as spares because once these get tired, the car starts rolling like crazy)
53157 RC Aluminum King Pins
Robinson Racing Products (RRP) 0.6m 20t steel pinion gear
Appropriate bearings that I matched from the manual (not sure of the brand but any will do)

From RCMart:
Yeah Racing (?) 72mm titanium steering turnbuckle (with the servo turned around 180 degrees to reach
Solid servo horn of your choice (don't remember what mine was)
PowerHD 23kg waterproof digital servo (overkill, but hey)
Low-friction (grey) 5mm connectors (for the steering turnbuckle)
3Racing black steel M3x10mm button hex screws (50), plus 4 M3x10mm countersunk screws for the servo
Yeah Racing 55mm aluminum damper set (can be exchanged with the Tamiya low-friction damper set)

From RCJaz:
54623 OP.1623 M-Chassis Wheel Axle w/Axle Ring
54410 30mm LW Lightweight Aluminum Swing Shaft
42357 Cross Joints LF Assembly Universal Shafts
GPM blue aluminumservo stays (from long ago, so I don't remember which shipment that was. Many simple-type servo stays would work)

From my own parts bins:
Tamiya Torque-tuned motor
Hobbywing 1060 brushed esc
Futaba antennaless receiver

And the result (without the body so you can see the hopups better):

Don't worry about the wheel/tire combo; those are just so I don't wear out the originals that came with it, which are quite rare now.

Feel free to ask any questions and I'll do my best to respond.

[Mechanic AH 581]

@DeadMeat666 Oops! My mistake. I thought you were the only DeadMeat! 

Thanks! That's awesome. Really appreciate the extensive list and photo reference—that's a sweet looking m-02. Looks really clean. Now I just have to figure out what M-02 kit and take time to find/finance the parts.

Is that going to be part of a collection/shelf queen or will you be running it? Have you? That seems like a decent amount of upgrades and curious to know how you feel about the way it performs. 

[DeadMeat666 1675]

4 hours ago, Mechanic AH said:

@DeadMeat666 Oops! My mistake. I thought you were the only DeadMeat! 

Thanks! That's awesome. Really appreciate the extensive list and photo reference—that's a sweet looking m-02. Looks really clean. Now I just have to figure out what M-02 kit and take time to find/finance the parts.

Is that going to be part of a collection/shelf queen or will you be running it? Have you? That seems like a decent amount of upgrades and curious to know how you feel about the way it performs. 

@Mechanic AHNo worries, I thought I was the only DeadMeat as well until recently when another TC member also quoted the other one by mistake 

I am honestly a little hesitant to run it, but I will do so lightly after I finish the body and place a protective sticker on the underside of the chassis. Will report back when I do.

Cheers,

[Carmine A 2046]

@DeadMeat666 are those the Yeah Racing Tires? They're about HALF the price of the Tamiya ones, but I'm curious as to how they hold up.

[DeadMeat666 1675]

2 hours ago, Carmine A said:

@DeadMeat666 are those the Yeah Racing Tires? They're about HALF the price of the Tamiya ones, but I'm curious as to how they hold up.

No, those are original Tamiya tires, 26mm radials up front and 31mm radials in the rear.

[Carmine A 2046]

1 minute ago, DeadMeat666 said:

No, those are original Tamiya tires, 26mm radials up front and 31mm radials in the rear.

1.9s?? Not the 1.5" M Chassis Wheels? 

I've got a unique problem with my M05.... I installed them too soon after gluing the Tires on - and was sloppy about it.... 

I GLUED them to the Hubs, and CAN'T remove them!!! 😖😲😠😠😠😠  I'm going to try soaking the Hubs in Acetone - as soon as I can afford some.

[DeadMeat666 1675]

5 hours ago, Carmine A said:

1.9s?? Not the 1.5" M Chassis Wheels? 

I've got a unique problem with my M05.... I installed them too soon after gluing the Tires on - and was sloppy about it.... 

I GLUED them to the Hubs, and CAN'T remove them!!! 😖😲😠😠😠😠  I'm going to try soaking the Hubs in Acetone - as soon as I can afford some.

The Boxster comes with standard touring car wheels, not M chassis wheels, so I replaced them with same size wheels so they don't look funny in the wide arches of the body:

Edited October 25, 2020 by DeadMeat666
Added a picture for reference

[Fabia130vRS 2098]

I need to admit, my M03 in 225mm wheelbase was too good to drive on touring car wheels.

cant find any pictures then these here. perfect fit and superior steering.

mine:

 

here is one from the web.