So I purchased a HG P407A....

[-=Jeff=- 57]

I have not driven either. I have only seen a Tamiya Bruiser box at the LHS. Back in the 80s.

been a slow process and not in any rush. I have also been working on rebuilding one of my 3D printers which has been keeping me busy

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Alright, got the radio setup, the service horn I bought was too long for the steering so I need a different one. The shifter seems good, once I get the steering sorting I can drive the chassis

[RichieRich 685]

I removed the stock steering servo saver and used a Tamiya heavy duty one. Initially, I also purchased a horn that was too long.

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Ordered another tonight. Now to wait for it. I can assemble some other pieces while waiting for it

[-=Jeff=- 57]

So I was seeing how fast the wheels spin and I am thinking this truck might go a bit faster than I want.  I have some 21T pinions for the motor. Well they stripped the set screw on the motor that came with it. I can drill it out, but any suggestions on on a motor? I was just going to buy a Tamiya Torque tuned and use the 21T pinion

 

 

[RC4x4 142]

On 1/8/2021 at 3:20 PM, RichieRich said:

You haven't been able to drive it yet? Have you driven a re-re Bruiser? I thought it was weird that they drive and sound different despite looking identical.

Mine sound about the same. I have a new 2012 Re-Release Bruiser running and a HGP407. I had to do a few things to the HG to get it straight.

It's not a bad truck but the Tamiya quality is worth the money. On the HG servo savers, I ca glued mine together and and that tightened up the steering.

I don't abuse mine and using a metal gear servo it's all good.

 

Cory

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Well I did have an extra 540 Johnson motor in my box of parts. I swapped that in with the 21t pinion gear. Now to wait for the steering servo horn.. 

also it looks like I have to clearance the plastic the battery holder bolts to to accommodate the wires from my ESC 1080. Did anyone else have to do this?

[RichieRich 685]

13 minutes ago, -=Jeff=- said:

Well I did have an extra 540 Johnson motor in my box of parts. I swapped that in with the 21t pinion gear. Now to wait for the steering servo horn.. 

also it looks like I have to clearance the plastic the battery holder bolts to to accommodate the wires from my ESC 1080. Did anyone else have to do this?

I did the same. I installed an extra 540 Johnson motor I had lying around. Yes, I had to do some modifications to get the ESC and switch in right. First, I cut a notch in the ESC box instead of having the wires come out from under the battery box. This makes it much easier to plug and unplug the battery. Second, I had to remove some material on the switch mount to install the Tamiya ESC I'm using.

[-=Jeff=- 57]

I was messing with my WT01.. so I set the clod body on the 407 chassis. It is a bit small. Waiting for the RC4WD Blazer body.. it was ordered for me as a gift. Just waiting now. The clod has to be a 1/12 body the Toyota body looks to be just as big 

[RC4x4 142]

The body looks good, but yeah, a little smaller. I think the Toyota bodies are one of the best. Wish Tamiya would have released the 3 speed chassis with a new hard body.

Did you do a kit version of the HG? I bought a couple of the kits. I have quite a few Tamiya so I though what the heck. I added a Tamiya light kit to it too.

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Yes I bought a kit.. I have 3 WT/WR01 cars.. a Dual Hunter, another WT/WR01 4wd with a Beetle body, and a Blackfoot Extreme, converted to 4WD with the clod body.. This one gets the Blazer body.. not sure what I will do with the Toyota body.. Was thinking of painting it the Marty McFly style, but it is the wrong body style

 

[-=Jeff=- 57]

This body was worth the wait. I did notice that I need to remove the top cover of the radio box that is how it is sitting and seems about right to me. I need to print the body mounts and probably tweak them to fit. But the tires look about the right size and width for this body.

 

now if my steering horn would show up.

[87lc2 2666]

Blazer body looks good on there.  The Clod bodies are definitely a bit small, I think 1/12 is about right.  I use them on a few smaller crawlers and they look great, but they don't work well on true 1/10 trucks.  The Blazer is perfect.

[-=Jeff=- 57]

yeah and setting on there.. All it looks like I need to modify is the Radio Lid.. it is too tall. I will print a new one tomorrow.. I also need to print the body mounts but one thing at a time. I really want my steering horn to show up, tanking a long trip from somewhere.

[87lc2 2666]

I ended up cutting the radio box on my HG also, even with the stock Toyota body I didnt like the look of it poking out on the bed.  Didn't need it with modern electronics anyway.  Can't wait to see the Blazer body painted.

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Me either.. need warmer weather here, wife will not let me paint in the basement or garage with it closed. 
 

still deciding on color, initial thoughts are a medium to dark red metallic (or a candy red) and the removable roof in black.. 

[87lc2 2666]

Yea, I hear you about the weather.  Painted a body a few weeks ago when it was a bit too cold and ruined it...Have been taking some things to work lately and when everyone's gone I'll paint in the shop with the exhaust fan on.  Actually been working out pretty well, problem is I have to stay late at work which is not ideal.

Metallic red will look great on there, especially with a black roof.  Just a suggestion - I use Krylon spray on bed liner for caps/roofs/beds topped in regular matte black and it comes out looking nice.  Here are a few shots of it in case you're interested to see what it ends up looking like. 

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Awesome, yes that was what I was going to do matte black and thought of krylon. I assume you are using primer first?

 

 

[87lc2 2666]

1 minute ago, -=Jeff=- said:

Awesome, yes that was what I was going to do matte black and thought of krylon. I assume you are using primer first?

 

 

No primer, I just spray the bed liner directly on the plastic after scuffing the plastic (use a red scotch-brite pad), and then go over the bed-liner with regular Rustoleum or Krylon matte black.  Have never had paint peel using this method and temps above 40F.  I rarely use primer as most nice spray paints for plastics these days have primer in them.  Unless I'm doing a very light color of course, then a primer helps avoid having to use too many coats.  

Best thing to do (I do this with nearly every paint job when using new paints), is do a bit of a test on a piece of scrap first coat by coat just to make sure none of the paints react with each other. 

[-=Jeff=- 57]

In my younger years I would have just done the Chevy Bow tie.. 

 

 

[RichieRich 685]

I like to use primer to help identify the mold lines. The HG truck had some serious flashing along the top/sides of the front fenders. @87lc2 The beds and cap came out fantastic on your trucks! Nice work.

[-=Jeff=- 57]

New radio box cover fits..

 

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Finally got my Servo horn and drove the chassis a bit in my basement.. pretty cool with the 3 speed. now to start fitting the body to the chassis

 

[-=Jeff=- 57]

So I am liking the stance of the wheels (I have 3d printed Adapters in the front) so the wheels are the same width. I am considering the 12mm conversion kit , however I am not sure how I would extend the front to match the rear width with the conversion kit. I have also seen the 12mm Adapters in aluminum or printable, but I think I run into the same issue with width.  Any ideas or suggestions on the 12mm conversion while making the front the same track width as the rear?

[RichieRich 685]

I think the mod that I see the most is people using the RC4WD hex conversion and cutting the rear axle and axle shafts. Really, the simplest solution would be if someone made/printed a wheel with the proper offsets so that the 1.9 scale tires would fit.

On a side note, I think I'm going to make a small adjustment to mine and spray the bed with the bed liner.