Going racing

[Nwc100]

This is pretty close to me, unlike 99% of anything else I'd like to do with my time so I thought I might enter.

I've had a look through the rules and it looks pretty straightforward to me, very minimal hop ups allowed so pretty much standard cars.

Does anyone have any good advice on suitable motors, I have the torque tuned already but the price of the allowed ones means it's easily upgraded.

I currently run on NiMH is it worth the move over to Lipo for this, it's not something I would plan to do much of, we have 3x4000mah NiMH already so a bit loathe to invest in more.

Any other advice is appreciated and thoughts taken on board.

We run a Gazoo Yaris TT02 which I'm presuming is suitable for this class.

Thanks

Nick

[Wetman]

Yeah, get another body. Please don`t destroy that paintwork racing it 

[Jonathon Gillham]

What are the class rules?

Get the fastest motor and 2s lipo, lipo makes a big difference

My son runs a TT02, it needs oil shocks and bearings as a minimum. 

The front uprights come off, the screw pulls through at the bottom.  I put a shock piston under each screw as an extra washer and that seems to be working.

If you're allowed universals then run them at the front. The number of races that end dnf because of the front dogbones coming out, its worth the money. Look at Yeah Racing ones.

Replace the disc brake hexes with aluminium ones (the amount of play these add to the wheels is insane!), yeah racing and gpm ones are cheap.

Otherwise, I wouldn't spend extra money on anything. The TT02 is a great chassis for what it is, but don't try to make it compete with a TRF car.

[ThunderDragonCy]

If you are looking at the Rookie Robbie class then it's spec electronics with TBLE02S and Torque Tuned motor so no need to change those. I would definitely get a couple of lipos. They just are better for racing. You have to use a tamiya body in this class so the gazoo is fine, but as mentioned above, it will get wrecked. 

If you are looking at the Tamiya Cup rules, there's a wide range of motors allowed. This is tricky because as a recent rookie racer myself i jumped in with 17.5 blinky and its sooooooo fast that it took me ages to get used to it. Actually turning down the performance to allow me to kearn to drive turned out better. As you don't have that option with brushed motors, either get one of the 15t motors but gear it down to a sensible speed, or use the end point adjust on your throttle stick to limit top speed. The gearing option is open to tamiya spur gears, get the high speed gear set and a TB05 63t spur gear. RW Racing pinions are allowed so get one of those (0.6mod). For a 15t i would gear it around 5.5FDR to start, but maybe contact the club and ask advice. Also ask advice about tyres and additive. You need race stuff for this. The kit wheels and tyres won't be any good at all. If you still need to buyoil shocks, get the CVA Super mini set as these are shorter than the kit shocks and will let you get the ride height down around 6mm for racing. Also if running this class get a repro body you won't mind getting smashed up. There are some cheap saloon shells around (lexus, subaru etc) that you can just throw some colour on and be fine. 

[Nwc100]

Here's the rules, looks pretty straightforward to me!

1. Eligible Tamiya Chassis cars:

   1. TT01, TT01E, TT01R, TT02, TT01 Trucks, TL01.

   2. Race versions of the above kits are not permitted.

2. Permitted Hop-Ups:-

   1. Ball Races

   2. Aluminium Wheel Hexes

   3. Aluminium Prop-shaft

   4. Motor Mount

   5. Oil-filled shocks (dampers)

   6. Steering Turnbuckles only

3. The differential must not be locked up. When either wheel is rotated by hand, the opposite wheel must rotate in the opposite direction.

4. Due to the short time frame and availability, we are going to be more open on motors for this year and the following will be allowed:

   1. HPI Saturn 20T and Firebolt 15T, Core 21T and 15T, Team Powers Cup Racer 540 Black Can Stock Motor, Tamiya silver can 540 as per kit and Tamiya Torque Tuned.

   2. The use of motor cooling such as heat sinks & fans is permitted.

5. Gearing is open as long as it remains Tamiya

   1. The Tamiya Hop-up speed tuned gear set is allowed but the use of gears or speed tuned sets from other manufacturers will not be allowed.

   2. Note: replacement pinions from other manufacturers such as RW is allowed.

6. Tyre choice is open but restricted to rubber (No Foams). Use of tyre warmers is not permitted, and no additives or maybe used. Brake cleaner, lighter fluid or water maybe used to clean tyres.

7. Only 7.2 Volt Nimh/NiCd or 2S Hard-cased lipo batteries (7.4 or 7.6v) are allowed.

   1. Lipos must be charged/discharged in a lipo sack at all times and voltage must not exceed 8.40v.

   2. Charging/discharging rates not to exceed that recommended by the manufacturer.

   3. The chassis can be modified to accommodate LiPo's which don't quite fit.

   4. Any chassis modifications to enable batteries to fit must be sympathetic and need to be ok'd prior to the event. Please try to avoid these modifications.

8. Bodyshells are to be more scale than out-right performance as used in the touring car class which are not allowed (if it is on the BRCA Touring Car list then it is not going to be allowed).

   1. Truck bodies

   2. Scale Tamiya Saloon, Touring or Rally cars preferred (not their r/c racing versions).

   3. GT1/2/3/4 bodies are acceptable but not post 2005 Japanese Super GT's.

   4. Please ask if you are unsure about a body shell before purchasing it.

   5. Any Real/Scale Body shell in 190mm or 200mm can be used.

9. Wings to be mounted in their original position and should be more scale than performance and may not be mounted on the roof.

   1. Commercially available Scale Wings can be fitted to body shells to replace damaged/lost wings.

   2. Wings cannot be added to bodies that didn't originally come with one.

   3. Emphasis on scale. If a wing is added that clearly provides more aero then it will have to be removed.

10. Questions and enquiries should be directed to Mike Haswell at WLRC. In the event of a dispute on a rule interpretation, Mike’s decision will be final.

[Wooders28]

If it's your first stab at racing,  turn up with what you've got, and have fun!

Lipo would make a big difference, and to run a 15t ,you'll need a 1060 esc, but once you get involved, people will give you advice, lend you stuff for the day etc.

The main thing is getting there, and getting on the track, it's brilliant!!