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Nicadraus

Damper Building thread

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I know all plastics go brittle eventually; but I found that my Yeah Racing Shock Gear 'top hat' part (top ball connector attachment point) failed / split after a year of very light use. The Tamiya plastics seem a little less susceptible to this; but fortunately the widely-available TRF V-Parts sprue (be careful not to get the CVA V-parts sprue) the equivalent V8 parts fit perfectly. Just something to bear in mind!

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7 hours ago, Carmine A said:

OK, we'll be honest. In a 50-65mm Shock, nobody but a World Class driver could feel the difference! 

In a 85-130mm Crawler Shock, with more speed and distance in the Pistons, there IS a notable difference using Cone Hole Pistons. I set mine up for fast compression and slow rebound. It's a perfect setup on Crawler Shocks! 

I'm using the pistons with 3 holes and have put on the soft Tamiya springs and my M07 handles really nice. All movements are nice and smooth and I have more confidence going into corners at higher speeds. Just waiting for my lipo batteries to arrive now.

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15 hours ago, DayRider said:

I'm using the pistons with 3 holes and have put on the soft Tamiya springs and my M07 handles really nice. All movements are nice and smooth and I have more confidence going into corners at higher speeds. Just waiting for my lipo batteries to arrive now.

I've got 2 hole Pistons in my Mini CVAs, with 65wt (900cst) Shock Oil in my M05. Very smooth also! 

Short Shocks NEED Heavy Oil. The short movements make thin Oils nearly ineffective. 😉

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I have a question about my Lancia 037 CVAs:

I`m not shure about the Dampers.....

The Manual says to use the 1 Hole Piston, the short Eyelet and 2 Spacers.....

I think it is essentiel to have a lot of travel for a Rallycar, so i used the t hole Piston, the longer eyelet and just the longer Spacer (ichoosed the longer Spaver because i thought so i can make up for the longer Eyelet....)

 

DSC00464.thumb.JPG.5829cad746c4950278e5252648b92b04.JPGDSC00467.thumb.JPG.b24303f9b11450050fc0d3aa76817143.JPGDSC00468.thumb.JPG.82ab6ec2262a823bae874c623c2d1adb.JPG

 

My natural way was to use 3 hole Pistons allaround, no Spacers and the long Eyelets. I think i use 3 Hole Pistons and long Eyelets on my TL01 Rally Cars....

I only used the 2 Hole Pistons becaus the Manual said i should use 1 Hole Pistons and MAtteo from Youtube uses 2 Holes in the Front and 1 in the Back.

Matteo also used 2 Spacers....   so i thougtmabe it would be a good idea to use just one Spaver (the longer one) in this build.

 

What would you suggest?

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2 hours ago, whahooo said:

I have a question about my Lancia 037 CVAs:

I`m not shure about the Dampers.....

The Manual says to use the 1 Hole Piston, the short Eyelet and 2 Spacers.....

I think it is essentiel to have a lot of travel for a Rallycar, so i used the t hole Piston, the longer eyelet and just the longer Spacer (ichoosed the longer Spaver because i thought so i can make up for the longer Eyelet....)

 

DSC00464.thumb.JPG.5829cad746c4950278e5252648b92b04.JPGDSC00467.thumb.JPG.b24303f9b11450050fc0d3aa76817143.JPGDSC00468.thumb.JPG.82ab6ec2262a823bae874c623c2d1adb.JPG

 

My natural way was to use 3 hole Pistons allaround, no Spacers and the long Eyelets. I think i use 3 Hole Pistons and long Eyelets on my TL01 Rally Cars....

I only used the 2 Hole Pistons becaus the Manual said i should use 1 Hole Pistons and MAtteo from Youtube uses 2 Holes in the Front and 1 in the Back.

Matteo also used 2 Spacers....   so i thougtmabe it would be a good idea to use just one Spaver (the longer one) in this build.

 

What would you suggest?

Internal spaces shorten the shock, longer eyelets lengthen the shock, so using both together cancel each other out while limiting your effective stroke.

I would suggest trying the shorter eyelet and either the short or no internal spacer. The shock length should work out pretty similar overall, but with more usable stroke. 

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3 hours ago, whahooo said:

I have a question about my Lancia 037 CVAs:

I`m not shure about the Dampers.....

The Manual says to use the 1 Hole Piston, the short Eyelet and 2 Spacers.....

I think it is essentiel to have a lot of travel for a Rallycar, so i used the t hole Piston, the longer eyelet and just the longer Spacer (ichoosed the longer Spaver because i thought so i can make up for the longer Eyelet....)

What would you suggest?

Shock pistons would depend on how and where you drive your car. In my XV-01, I'm using 3 holes front and back (using YR shock gear) while in my FF-03RR, I'm using 2 holes (using Tamiya TRF shocks). Bothe works great and love how the shocks perform.

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For buggies or crawlers, I highly recommend this...

KYX. They come in 80-100mm. I've tried several shocks for my CFX and this is the best and have no plans of changing again.

zjdmA6Oh.jpg

EN7T1amh.jpg

amZ5Xsih.jpg

KYX-Racing-90mm-Black-Metal-Shock-Absorber-for-1-10-RC-Crawler-Car-SCX10-CC01-2pcs.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp

 

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I'm interested in what other methods people use for holding shock shafts while tightening the ends on apart from the proper pliers. I was using some old tractor inner tube wrapped around the shaft and pliers, but recently wrapped the shaft in an elastic band and gripped that with pliers. Even with the proper pliers metal on metal seems harsh.

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Toad I just use an aluminum damper plier.   Aluminum used is softer than the stainless shaft, so no scratches on the shaft.   

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1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

Internal spaces shorten the shock, longer eyelets lengthen the shock, so using both together cancel each other out while limiting your effective stroke.

I would suggest trying the shorter eyelet and either the short or no internal spacer. The shock length should work out pretty similar overall, but with more usable stroke. 

I changed the Eyelets to the short ones, because the Car wan`t nearly able to bottom out.

I`m still not convinced to use the spacers at all, but i do not want to demount & open the shocks and fill them up again. So i just use the longer Spacer inside (The Manual suggest to use both, the short and the long Spacer)

 

 

1 hour ago, Nicadraus said:

Shock pistons would depend on how and where you drive your car. In my XV-01, I'm using 3 holes front and back (using YR shock gear) while in my FF-03RR, I'm using 2 holes (using Tamiya TRF shocks). Bothe works great and love how the shocks perform.

I don`t use my cars on a particular Surface (i`m not a racer, just a Parkbasher). But i`m more of an offroad kind of guy. So all of my Cars  are Buggies or Monstertrucks and all of my Streetcars are Rallycars. I want to use my Cars in bumpy grass, Parks, etc. but i also use all of my Cars on Tarmac if they do not have spiky tires that will get damaged.

My Lancia037 should be an offroad vehicle that bring onroad fun with it. (Maybe i have to change the tires to Rallyblocks to get any traction at all on dusty roads)

 

 

 

 

Thanks for alll your answers!

 

I still have one question:

What is "green Slime" for?

Some guys say they use it on every shock. But i don`t know what that Slime is for.....

On Tamiya CVAs, i never get any leakages, on cheap shocks the do not stop them from leaking.

Also i didn`t  get more "smoothnes" out of the shocks. (But i`m not a racer, i just have my Cars for fun)

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1 hour ago, Toad16v said:

I'm interested in what other methods people use for holding shock shafts while tightening the ends on apart from the proper pliers. I was using some old tractor inner tube wrapped around the shaft and pliers, but recently wrapped the shaft in an elastic band and gripped that with pliers. Even with the proper pliers metal on metal seems harsh.

This black plier.

EN7T1amh.jpg

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I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this question...

Can someone suggest damper replacements for a vintage Fox?

Thanks!

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18 hours ago, Cameron PS said:

I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this question...

Can someone suggest damper replacements for a vintage Fox?

Thanks!

There are so many options. If you want to stick with Tamiya, there are a couple of shocks as replacement or upgrade from the CVA. 

Measure the length of the Fox's shocks front & rear. Eye to eye in millimeters. Then you can start searching shocks equivalent to its length. Of course spring rate is also important. You can also look brands like Yeah Racing, Gmade, KYX, Xtraspeed, and many more.

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What is "green slime" for?

 

People use it, but i don`t know what it is for and what is so special about it.....

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2 hours ago, whahooo said:

What is "green slime" for?

 

People use it, but i don`t know what it is for and what is so special about it.....

O-Ring grease, from Team Associated in this case. It's used to lubricate the o-rings, keep the dirt out and the shock oil in, and it should do the job better compared of just using the oil.

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13 hours ago, whahooo said:

What is "green slime" for?

 

People use it, but i don`t know what it is for and what is so special about it.....

As @MontyMole mentioned, it's grease. Mine isn't exactly "green" but blue silicon grease.

jx68Diwh.jpg

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So the DF03 dampers come with V and X parts. Rears use X eyelets and the fronts use V eyelets.

Anyone know what the difference is?! They look the same to me?

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9 hours ago, Cynan said:

So the DF03 dampers come with V and X parts. Rears use X eyelets and the fronts use V eyelets.

Anyone know what the difference is?! They look the same to me?

The rears have a slightly larger bore, do they not?

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Slightly being the word. I can’t really tell but I think so!

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On the topic of the DF03 dampers, I've just got the reissue for the TT-02B. Looking at the instructions, I see that they use o-rings as internal spacers and the short eyelets for both front and back. Considering that my aim was to raise the ride height on top of having better shocks, wouldn't that be counterproductive for me? Or the longer shaft just does the trick alone? What are your setups?

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On 4/20/2021 at 5:12 PM, Toad16v said:

I'm interested in what other methods people use for holding shock shafts while tightening the ends on apart from the proper pliers. I was using some old tractor inner tube wrapped around the shaft and pliers, but recently wrapped the shaft in an elastic band and gripped that with pliers. Even with the proper pliers metal on metal seems harsh.

Pre tapped thread, rolled up post-it note and pliers has always worked for me

CBD2C975-A5DC-4754-AA64-C7BF378C38A2.jpeg

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On 4/20/2021 at 3:36 PM, Nicadraus said:

For buggies or crawlers, I highly recommend this...

KYX. They come in 80-100mm. I've tried several shocks for my CFX and this is the best and have no plans of changing again

 

amZ5Xsih.jpg

 

 

@NicadrausI'm interested in these gold KYX shocks, having a strong recommendation like that means a lot. But I need them at 80mm. Struggling to find them online (always 90 or 100). Are you sure there is an 80mm version, or can they be built shorter somehow?

Any chance of a link? Gotta be gold, though!

Cheers!

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You can use black o rings under the piston head inside the shock to limit the travel to make them shorter.

Depending on your use case you may need weaker springs after though.

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3 hours ago, Bwaaatch said:

@NicadrausI'm interested in these gold KYX shocks, having a strong recommendation like that means a lot. But I need them at 80mm. Struggling to find them online (always 90 or 100). Are you sure there is an 80mm version, or can they be built shorter somehow?

Any chance of a link? Gotta be gold, though!

Cheers!

All the 80mm are available in red. I'm using the gold but used an extension on my shock tower to accommodate. 

3 hours ago, Cynan said:

You can use black o rings under the piston head inside the shock to limit the travel to make them shorter.

Depending on your use case you may need weaker springs after though.

@Bwaaatch this ^. I've also done this method to a friend's shocks and to my Wild One when I upgraded the shocks. Just make sure that the o-rings you use is smaller in diameter than the piston so it won't block oil flow inside the damper.

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