A stupid stupid question if I may

[Wetman 417]

I`ve read the FAQ`s but can`t find an answer but if you are installing an MFU on a truck do you still need an ESC? Or does the MFU do both?

[Snappy1 966]

I am not a truck guy but looking at the Tamiya MFC-03 instructions is says it acts as a speed control that enables smooth running, so yes

 

[Tamiyabigstuff 832]

The MFU has a built in ESC.

[Mad Ax 9313]

Not a stupid question at all  the ESC in the Tamiya MFU is a bit basic - it feels much like the TEU-101 to drive, and has the same 'back once for brake, back twice for reverse' feature, which is OK generally but awkward if you've got a heavy trailer, you brake once to bleed off speed, then brake again to stop - the rig will shoot into reverse, jackknife and wipe out someone else's four-figure cab.

I've heard it said that the MFU-03 is slightly smoother than that in the 01 but it's been so long since I've driven any of my trucks, I can't vouch if that's actually true or if it's just because I was using an absolutely horrible Carson radio with deadzones the size of London on my 01.

If you wanted a separate ESC and light/sound module, Beier make a standalone light/sound system that will work with other ESCs, but personally I think their SFR-1 all-in-one light/sound/ESC system is better value than Tamiya - it offers way more customisation, a smoother ESC and programmable response for around the same money.  Fitting and configuration, however, is a lot more complex.

[Wetman 417]

8 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

Not a stupid question at all  the ESC in the Tamiya MFU is a bit basic - it feels much like the TEU-101 to drive, and has the same 'back once for brake, back twice for reverse' feature, which is OK generally but awkward if you've got a heavy trailer, you brake once to bleed off speed, then brake again to stop - the rig will shoot into reverse, jackknife and wipe out someone else's four-figure cab.

I've heard it said that the MFU-03 is slightly smoother than that in the 01 but it's been so long since I've driven any of my trucks, I can't vouch if that's actually true or if it's just because I was using an absolutely horrible Carson radio with deadzones the size of London on my 01.

If you wanted a separate ESC and light/sound module, Beier make a standalone light/sound system that will work with other ESCs, but personally I think their SFR-1 all-in-one light/sound/ESC system is better value than Tamiya - it offers way more customisation, a smoother ESC and programmable response for around the same money.  Fitting and configuration, however, is a lot more complex.

@Mad AxI actually read another of your posts from a while ago this morning and you mentioned Beier and Astec models and had a quick look on the site (by the way RE Astec and their bling, the mrs is being sent to your gaff when she goes light after seeing my credit card bill!!! ) but what I wanted to ask was do the Beier stuff come as a plug and play, in a case like the MFU and Teu stuff or do you buy it as a motherboard type of arrangement and have to supply your own casinmg etc? I couldnt tell from the pictures on the website

[Mad Ax 9313]

14 hours ago, Wetman said:

do the Beier stuff come as a plug and play, in a case like the MFU and Teu stuff or do you buy it as a motherboard type of arrangement and have to supply your own casinmg etc?

The Beier modules come in a clear plastic housing, possibly lexan although not the same grade that bodies are made of, which is a lot slimmer that a Tamiya MFU and easier to mount.  The various ports are well marked.  On the whole is feels flimsier than the MFU but that shouldn't be an issue.

It's certainly not "plug and play" in terms of configuration - the motor plugs are not of any type I've seen before so you might want to change to bullets, I think you get a Deans connector as standard but for everything else you just get flyleads and have to wire up all your own stuff.  You'll need to buy whatever LEDs you need in whatever colour you require, work out the appropriate resistor values and buy plenty of wire and heatshrink and solder to put everything together.  Allan at Astec Models is really helpful with getting started and has got some FAQs on the website, and also a resistor calculator to help you get the right values.

Then there's the configuration app on PC to get it all set up - there are a bunch of default starter settings to get going but some people struggle with customisation, it depends how much you like playing around in Windows apps.

Only things I'd say:

The ribbon cable you get with the SFR-1 is short, Astec do a longer one which should be long enough to do a rig but you'll end up wiring in your own earth anyway, and the cable is actually really awkward to separate and strip (instead of being multiple cables bonded together like every other ribbon I've ever seen, it's lots of individual cables covered in a kind of laminate which is hard to get off without stripping the wire).  So I wouldn't bother with the long cable - just make up your own sets with wire and solder it to the standard short ribbon.

There's no on/off switch as standard - that's an optional extra (but it's cheap).  You know you should always disconnect your battery after driving so it doesn't really matter, but a switch is nice for convenience if you want to isolate the truck on the layout before going out for the midday kebab with your trucking buddies*.

There's no volume switch as standard.  Astec supply one but actually you can configure it so you can control volume from the radio, which is way nicer

Mount the unit so you can easily get the memory card out - unless you buy the optional USB cable, you'll have to pull the card out every time you want to change settings.  In the early days, that will be multiple times in an hour as you get it set up the way you want (I'll probably buy a USB cable before I get back to my truck again).

*I swear the main reason we all have trucks is because the club venue is right next door to the county's best kebab shop

[Wetman 417]

47 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:

The Beier modules come in a clear plastic housing, possibly lexan although not the same grade that bodies are made of, which is a lot slimmer that a Tamiya MFU and easier to mount.  The various ports are well marked.  On the whole is feels flimsier than the MFU but that shouldn't be an issue.

It's certainly not "plug and play" in terms of configuration - the motor plugs are not of any type I've seen before so you might want to change to bullets, I think you get a Deans connector as standard but for everything else you just get flyleads and have to wire up all your own stuff.  You'll need to buy whatever LEDs you need in whatever colour you require, work out the appropriate resistor values and buy plenty of wire and heatshrink and solder to put everything together.  Allan at Astec Models is really helpful with getting started and has got some FAQs on the website, and also a resistor calculator to help you get the right values.

Then there's the configuration app on PC to get it all set up - there are a bunch of default starter settings to get going but some people struggle with customisation, it depends how much you like playing around in Windows apps.

Only things I'd say:

The ribbon cable you get with the SFR-1 is short, Astec do a longer one which should be long enough to do a rig but you'll end up wiring in your own earth anyway, and the cable is actually really awkward to separate and strip (instead of being multiple cables bonded together like every other ribbon I've ever seen, it's lots of individual cables covered in a kind of laminate which is hard to get off without stripping the wire).  So I wouldn't bother with the long cable - just make up your own sets with wire and solder it to the standard short ribbon.

There's no on/off switch as standard - that's an optional extra (but it's cheap).  You know you should always disconnect your battery after driving so it doesn't really matter, but a switch is nice for convenience if you want to isolate the truck on the layout before going out for the midday kebab with your trucking buddies*.

There's no volume switch as standard.  Astec supply one but actually you can configure it so you can control volume from the radio, which is way nicer

Mount the unit so you can easily get the memory card out - unless you buy the optional USB cable, you'll have to pull the card out every time you want to change settings.  In the early days, that will be multiple times in an hour as you get it set up the way you want (I'll probably buy a USB cable before I get back to my truck again).

*I swear the main reason we all have trucks is because the club venue is right next door to the county's best kebab shop

Cheers