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krisby

Monster Beetle still popping the dog bones

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My partner and I both got MBs last year, initially mine was ok and hers suffered, almost immediately, from the CVs popping out under load. The suggestion here was to get the OG ones, which I did, and that worked a treat. Mine started doing it after a while too, I checked first that the rear suspension etc was screwing tight, it was, and still is, but I fitted the new dog bones, but it is still popping under extreme load, i.e. full throttle or if lateral movement or bumps.

I've checked all the geometry, and despite being tight, there is still some slack in the arms, really, the dog bones need to probably be 2mm longer and they would be snug as a bug in a rug.

Anyway else still having problems with their MB? I must say, rere quality, in my experience has been shocking. My brat also suffers a few problems, although not the drive shaft problems. Puts me off buying other reres if I can never run them out of the box, yet my 33 year old Boomerang still gets bashed on the track with no issues.

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Has it got the single and double o ring spacers in the cup right way round? Or try swapping? I’ve not had that issue, but then I have a ball diff so might have a longer location.

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No matter what i did my re re popped out all the time when hitting bumps or jumping. I tried old hop ups by crp and other companies. I even tried new stuff or tricks people said worked.I had the mip ball diff in it and even tried frog re re dog bones which someone told me resolved this issue. Well nothing worked, so after dropping atleast $200 on various things to fix this i sold my beetle as is to someone for $300. Shame cause as a kid i had one and with the thorp ball diff never had any issues

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yeah, I tried the o ring spacers, made no difference, the odd thing is it is exactly the same as my partners. It is just that my right hand swing arm seems to have a lot of movement, even though every thing is tightened and in place properly. I might look at fitting a rod or something to stop that outward flex. or a fatter spacer on the cup.

 

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I use the MIP but atill have the isaue maybe every other pack.  My next step is to put a spacer in the shock to limit down travel, betting that it ia a mix of maximum down travel and flex that makes it pop out.  I do have some aluminum swing arm caps (or whatever they are called) to try too.  

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The shock length is very important. It shouldn´t be longer than what the trailing arm can move. Internal spacers are a must. Another thing is the Rere spring. Still too stiff and too long. I use Top Force Rear spring in my Monster Beetle with Rere CVD´s since years. No issues. Weaker springs give a little sag and droop, much better handling on bumpy terrain. Also it helps the trailing arm move before it can flex. Guess that is what helps the dogbones stay in.

Also you should check, if it is always the same side. The ORV gearbox has some assymmetry, and one gearbox joint sticks out a little more than the other. This could be spaced inside the dish gear, so that the joint comes out a little more on the shorter side. 

Kind regards,

Matthias

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The best way of fixing this (I’ve found) is adding a stop on the training arms on top of the stops that are there 

ilL see if I can take a pic but in essence, anything that stops the wheels dropping as low as they do should work 

p.s. I’m running 3s brushless and my CVs kept locking out so went dog bones and i was still throwing them In the field and would spend 20mins searching - so painted them day glo orange with fishing float paint 

p.p.s. The gear box brace from @Xeostar also helps 

JJ

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zPmPlBQ.jpg
 

i need to make this more permanent but it helped lots (this is the car upside down)

 

trapping something about 1-2mm between these 2 Parts will help

StAdr5d.jpg
 

I think also taking the suspension apart and adding a bump stop on the shaft of the damper inside would also help 

I may do that later as well 

JJ

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So this is what I’ve done to my beetle.....

1. shorten the shock extension

take apart the shock

ddpYw6Q.jpg

Use an aerial tip or similar size tube

tydGpD7.jpg

Put the tube on the shaft - this will stop it extending so far 

Jpg4dXT.jpg

spoesss.jpg
 

JJ

 

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2. Use a suspension limit strap

Y0kYj9N.jpg

in 1:1 off roading, these straps are used to stop the excessive extension of the suspension - exactly what we need on the beetle 

so easy enough to do on the 1:10 version 

YuMOrrp.jpg

I used a brass bushing to set a 1mm reduction in the suspension 

oqrotBb.jpg

and then obviously removed it 

this obviously lowers the ground clearance but not by much and you can adjust it a bit 

wsx7YXI.jpg

f9VwhF8.jpg
 

lkIHkgI.jpg

JJ

 

 

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3. Secure the rear arm mounting points better 

the strange 3 screw securing pieces are a weak point with the 3 screws becoming less secure as time goes by.

and I know there are mods to buy but I like to try DIY things first 

lPEUiVM.jpg

so I dug out some 20mm threaded bolts and locking nuts 

DtT4HaB.jpg
 

luckily how the chassis is moulded in a way that you can access the back of each hole and the hole already goes all the way through 👍🏻

StAdr5d.jpg

Really easy to do 

yDAa6Se.jpg

h8QdT0o.jpg

oqrotBb.jpg
 

it really sures up the back end :)

JJ

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Finally, should all else fail, I’ve painted the dog bones fluorescent orange with fishing float paint ;)

m5oxejv.jpg
 

ZeOeFn1.jpg

jQnGQ8M.jpg
 

JJ

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That quite a bit of droop. Try a spacer inside the shock to eliminate dog bone ejection???

Terry

 

eta I see you’ve added a spacer...

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Some very genius fixes!

I share mine using threaded rod:

If running CRP arm holder/supports, just use the extra hole on the bottom, use threaded rod straight through to the opposite end! see pic 1.

This fixed my issues and yes the Thorp drive joint will pop out just like a dogbone.

If running stock arm supports, just drill out the very center and put the threaded rod through, secure on both sides see pic two.

IMG_1446[1].JPG

IMG_1448[1].JPG

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