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DeadMeat666

DCJs/CVDs on a Super Hotshot Rere

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This is one of those questions that is simple to ask, but apparently very difficult to answer, so I appeal to the collective experience of TC:

Is there any possible solution for putting DCJs or CVDs on the front of the Rere Super Hotshot? Many hours of searching on the web have resulted in some mixed messages, ranging between "no" and "maybe Top Force CVDs, but they may bind".

Does anyone have info that could help a little more perhaps?

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1 hour ago, Avante2001R said:

Im using 53791- df-02 shafts

And this works with the re-re Super Hotshot? With the smaller diff cups? Because as I understand, the original SuperShot had different diff cups than the re-re.

Also, this works with the front? From the manual it seems there are different length dogbones front and back.

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The df02 cvd's seem to fit a number of different cars.  i have them on my stadium thunder, gravel hound, terra scorcher etc.  

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Ok update on this topic based on my (completely-not-cost-effective) findings:

I went ahead and bought YR df03 cvds, as well as Tamiya DF-02 assembly universal shafts. 

1. They're both exactly the same shaft length, which is 70mm for the shaft, so whereever one fits, the other will too.

2. They are both 1mm or so too long to fit comfortably in the front of the re-re super hotshot. They bind on the up-travel of the arms, limiting the range of motion.

Hopefully this will help save somebody some money if they decide to go this direction. These do not properly fit without modification.

 

Now, for the modification part:

I'm thinking of getting different bearings for the hubs. Instead of having two standard Tamiya size 1150 bearings which are 5x11x4mm (the last number being thickness) for the front hubs, I'd get 5x11x5mm for the outside of the hubs and 5x11x3mm for the insides of the hubs, which would give me 1mm of additional space for the shafts on each side.

Of course that would shift the turning axis of the cvd 1mm outwards compared to that of the kingpin, but I don't think that would be too big of a deal.

 

Anything wrong with this arm-chair theory before I give it a shot?

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I believe from their parts numbering system these (DF-01) would be 68mm? Last 2 digits. so would they fit? However I don’t know if the diameter of the cup is different

 

https://www.gpmparts.com/tamiya-df01-steel-frontrear-universal-swing-shaft-1pr-gpm-sdf1268c-p-90071587.html

 

I believe these below (GPM SDF3268C for DF-03) definitely would have worked, but no longer available:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32273140024.html

 

If it was me I would probably buy some of the first one just to try! Or does this help what Danny did:

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/89029-boomerang-front-driveshaft-binding-problem-fix/

 

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I have the same problem too with my rere Boomerang, df-02 cvd binds, not just for the front arms but also with the back arms.

For the front arms, Im using dannymulder's fix and its works.

@DeadMeat666 i think ur modification theory should work too, and its cheaper / easier.

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@CoolHandsI ordered those GPM CVDs to give them a shot, and I also found Yokomo 68mm CVDs that I will try out as well.

Danny's solution, while creative, is too much of a bodge for me, especially since I will be swapping different wheels around and I don't want to have to ruin them just to run them on this buggy.

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Ok the plot thickens...

I just received the GPM CVDs referenced above by @CoolHands. Lo and behold, they are in fact 68mm long and allow the front suspension a full range of motion without binding! Well 95% range of motion, they bind a tiny bit near the top, but that would be past the travel of the shocks anyway, so no worries.

NOW:

Here's a picture of 3 dogbone arrangements side by side. On the left you see the MIP ball diff dog bone. In the middle is the stock dogbone, and on the right is the GPM CVD. If you look really closely, you'll notice that the diff-cup end of the MIP dogbone is larger(?!) than the stock and GPM bone end. 

2021-01-09-11-52-54.jpg

 

This means that I cannot put the GPM CVD on the MIP ball diff, the slightly smaller dogbone end just wobbles around worryingly in there.

So now I'm presented with a disappointing dilemma: should I put in the MIP ball diff set I just paid $142 for, and use normal dogbones, or should I put in GPM CVDs, which I paid around $20 for (and a further $60 trying CVDs that didn't fit) and forgo the MIP ball diff?

This is honestly quite frustrating. Why can't I have both? Is it impossible to run MIP diffs AND CVDs in the HotShot??

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I run Top Force uj’s  with MIP ball diffs in my re re Bigwig, the MIP bones fall out constantly .

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7 minutes ago, Snappy1 said:

I run Top Force uj’s  with MIP ball diffs in my re re Bigwig, the MIP bones fall out constantly .

Do you mean these? : https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-top-force-universal-shaft-silver-14135028-00074319

Or if not, what part number are you referring to? Because the ones I linked seem to be long gone out of stock.

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4 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

Do you mean these? : https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-top-force-universal-shaft-silver-14135028-00074319

Or if not, what part number are you referring to? Because the ones I linked seem to be long gone out of stock.

Those are the ones I am using, it hasn’t had much run time but far better than the MIP bones

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On 12/25/2020 at 2:44 PM, DeadMeat666 said:

Now, for the modification part:

I'm thinking of getting different bearings for the hubs. Instead of having two standard Tamiya size 1150 bearings which are 5x11x4mm (the last number being thickness) for the front hubs, I'd get 5x11x5mm for the outside of the hubs and 5x11x3mm for the insides of the hubs, which would give me 1mm of additional space for the shafts on each side.

Of course that would shift the turning axis of the cvd 1mm outwards compared to that of the kingpin, but I don't think that would be too big of a deal.

Just wondering,  have u done it, did it work/not?

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1 minute ago, Morinstal said:

Just wondering,  have u done it, did it work/not?

The bearings are taking their sweet time arriving from overseas, so I'm still waiting to try that sadly. I will post my findings when they do arrive and I try it out. Should be around 2-3 more weeks or so.

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@Avante2001R Lucky you, it seems some of us have the binding problem with df-02 universal for front arm setting.

Maybe because ur using the mip diff?? Is the mip diff cup different compared to standard cup?

Another problem that still boggles me is when im using df-02 uni for rear arm, when moving (tx/rx on), theres a loud cranking noise from rear gear box. Change to standard dogbone and the crankings gone XD.

 

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Yes the MIP drive cups are different.

There is also a difference between original and re release in shaft lengths I believe.

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17 hours ago, Morinstal said:

@Avante2001R Lucky you, it seems some of us have the binding problem with df-02 universal for front arm setting.

Maybe because ur using the mip diff?? Is the mip diff cup different compared to standard cup?

Another problem that still boggles me is when im using df-02 uni for rear arm, when moving (tx/rx on), theres a loud cranking noise from rear gear box. Change to standard dogbone and the crankings gone XD.

 

DF-02 cvd I have front and rear works well with both MIP and stock diffs. Not sure why some are having serious issues. 🧐

To confirm my car is a rere

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6 hours ago, Avante2001R said:

DF-02 cvd I have front and rear works well with both MIP and stock diffs. Not sure why some are having serious issues. 🧐

To confirm my car is a rere

Which re-re though?

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1 hour ago, Avante2001R said:

Boomerang rere from 2017.

That's the thing. The Boomerang has equal length dogbones front to back, while the Hotshot/SHS rere does not; the front dogbones are around 1mm shorter, and that's making all the difference. This is with the new front hubs that are provided with the rere's if anyone is asking, not the old Hotshot hubs.

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2 hours ago, DeadMeat666 said:

That's the thing. The Boomerang has equal length dogbones front to back, while the Hotshot/SHS rere does not; the front dogbones are around 1mm shorter, and that's making all the difference. This is with the new front hubs that are provided with the rere's if anyone is asking, not the old Hotshot hubs.

But on the boomerang rere, the front tamiya dogbones are to long and bind like grazy it is a flaw from tamiya, the mod that i did to my boomerang I did the same thing to my hotshot.

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I’m not sure why others are having issues with DF-02 cvd - I had original diffs before and had no issues when I fitted the MIP diffs also didn’t have any issues. Very strange! 

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