Tamiya bearing sizes

[Gazzalene]

I want to get a supply of bearings,fed up with always not having "that" size in the spares box.

With Tamiya builds what would you say are the most used sizes,perhaps in order? What do you guys buy in general?

[Jonathon Gillham]

30 minutes ago, Gazzalene said:

I want to get a supply of bearings,fed up with always not having "that" size in the spares box.

With Tamiya builds what would you say are the most used sizes,perhaps in order? What do you guys buy in general?

I buy Yeah Racing from rcmart and keep a stash that I top up when its getting low. About USD3 - USD4 for 10. I buy both rubber and metal shielded ones, so would probably have 50 - 100 bearings on hand at anyone time. For Tamiya the common ones are

1150 = 11mm external diameter x 5mm internal diameter and 4mm thick. Tamiya classify this way, ext diameter, int diameter. These replace the plastic bushings and are used everywhere, wheels, gearboxes etc. Usually 10 - 15 per kit

1050 - as above, 4mm thick but I also have 3mm thick because when you run DCJ in a touring car you need thinner bearings for some reason. 1050s aren't that common compared to 850 or 1150, possibly only in the TA and TB series. My F1 wheels use these too, also clutch bearings for my nitro motor.

850 - these replace the brass bushings. Usually 2 - 4 per kit, I think they're 2.5mm thick

The 3 above will probably cover 90% of Tamiya rerelease and TT/DT type models. Its worth getting heaps of the 1150s as you use a lot of them. You can buy them really cheap in bulk on ebay etc, these will be fine, even if they have a 10% failure rate they're still really cheap. I haven't had a bad bearing from Yeah Racing and they are consistent.

What cars do you have? My TA07 uses 1510 for the diffs. My HB buggies also use these in the rear hubs so I keep these too. Then some others that my HB (1380 i think?) and Ae cars use. Basically I went through the manuals of my cars and then bought them all.

@Juggular will give you the best response to this though, probably with pictures and a Konghead gearbox

[67CamaroSS]

5X11s and 8x5s for sure.  I buy in bulk from eBay.

If you are in the US, Avid Bearings is a good place for kit specific kits at good prices.

The price of bearings has gone down considerably.  I remember buying at of Trinity Bearings for a Clod for $90.00USD back in the mid 90s, where today I can get a set for about $24

[burakol]

I just ordered bearings of various sizes for my Clod, VQS, Super Astute and Tt01 from a Chinese online marketplace... each bearing size comes in a pack of 10 so if i needed less of a specific type, I just keep it as a spare... buying bulk is definitely more cost effective than buying kit specific... all in all i think i spent $40 for all the bearings I needed... getting rubber sealed type is not much more but I couldn’t find them in the sizes I need. The only downside of buying from that Chinese marketplace is the shipping time.

[Hobgoblin]

I needed 2 850's today, I was willing to buy like a pack of ten for spares. Long story short I've got 100 coming on the slowboat from a shady Chinese MFG now because it wasn't that much more expensive compared 

Safe to say if they're any good I'll probably end up redistributing some for the price of a stamp so I don't have greasy bags everywhere!

[speedy_w_beans]

A few 630s are good to have too, although they are used infrequently.  The steering rack uses 630s in the TB04 and TA06, and I think the portal axles in the G6-01 use them too.

[Jonathon Gillham]

21 hours ago, 67CamaroSS said:

 

The price of bearings has gone down considerably.  I remember buying at of Trinity Bearings for a Clod for $90.00USD back in the mid 90s, where today I can get a set for about $24

Its crazy to think about what we paid in the 90s, it cost me about $90 to ball race a Kyosho Mantis back then, I think the full package of car, radio, battery cost me about $270 and the bearings were on top. Maybe thats why I like having bearings around, my toolbox would have about $1000 worth of bearings in 90s money!

[Dakratfink]

In the US I tend to get either Fast Eddy bearings , but bulk 5x11x4 off Amazon or eBay, or get Avid bearings.

The first time I ever ordered Avid bearings it was a Non RC application. I was Dixon an a discarded Dyson vacuum cleaner that needed a new bearing in the beater bar. 

[Finnsllc]

occasional 830

[markbt73]

Clod uses almost all 12x6mm, and TA02/03/CC01 hubs use 12x6 and 10x15. Other than that, 11x5 and 8x5 will cover most Tamiya applications.

For Kyosho, you want 14x8 for the diffs, 10x5 for hubs, 8x4 for 2WD front wheels, and 8x4 flanged for counter gears.

[Juggular]

On 12/23/2020 at 3:23 PM, Jonathon Gillham said:

@Juggular will give you the best response to this though, probably with pictures and a Konghead gearbox

lol...

Why am I so predictable???

Now that's out of my system, yes, I think it's worth having some 1150s and 850s.  Metal shields for internals, rubber shields for externals.  

Tamiya's convention is different from engineering convention.  "1150" indicates 11mm outer diameter, 5mm inner diameter.  No mentioning of the thickness.   Engineering convention seems to go like, inner diameter x outer diameter x thickness.  So 1150 would be "5x11x4mm bearings."  Searching that would result in many more hits.  

I keep a box of them.

I mean this box. 

It doesn't look much, but it's actually about 300 bearings of different shapes and sizes. (well, most bearings tend to be round, I'll post a picture if I ever see a square one)  Two most useful sizes are 5x11x4mm (1150) and 5x8x2.5mm (850) bearings.  

https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-rc-ball-bearing-5x11x4mm-10pcs-yb6014m-s10-00000687

I have tried to stock up on parts that might break. That didn't turn out well. Lots of extra expenditures without noticeable convenience.  Bearings, however, came in handy more than several times.  I would buy stuff on ebay. Often, I wouldn't know if used cars come with bearings or not.  

If I'm too lazy to take the shields off, I'd just soak them in alcohol (beer does not count).  After a night of soaking I would re-lubing with machine oil. Metal shielded make excellent gearbox bearings. If I seal the gearbox with plumber's grease, I leave the balls naked.  Only where it's exposed to dirt and splashes I would use rubber-shielded bearings. (These went into Konghead)

 

[Lee76]

1 hour ago, Juggular said:

(well, most bearings tend to be round, I'll post a picture if I ever see a square one)

No worries @Juggular I have you covered.

 

[DeadMeat666]

Since we're on this topic, does anyone know where I could find 1150 bearings that are 3mm in thickness? Seems difficult to source them shielded, only naked.

[lentner3]

It’s worth mentioning that various bearings have codes such as MR115ZZ which is for the common 1150 bearing. These codes will bring up many more cheap options on eBay.

[lentner3]

On 12/25/2020 at 11:29 AM, DeadMeat666 said:

Since we're on this topic, does anyone know where I could find 1150 bearings that are 3mm in thickness? Seems difficult to source them shielded, only naked.

try here, I’m sure there are cheaper options and I usually buy in bulk but just to give you an idea. These come with different thickness options
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222980871017

[2Dover3D]

On 12/25/2020 at 1:50 AM, Juggular said:

lol...

Why am I so predictable???

Now that's out of my system, yes, I think it's worth having some 1150s and 850s.  Metal shields for internals, rubber shields for externals.  

Tamiya's convention is different from engineering convention.  "1150" indicates 11mm outer diameter, 5mm inner diameter.  No mentioning of the thickness.   Engineering convention seems to go like, inner diameter x outer diameter x thickness.  So 1150 would be "5x11x4mm bearings."  Searching that would result in many more hits.  

I keep a box of them.

I mean this box. 

It doesn't look much, but it's actually about 300 bearings of different shapes and sizes. (well, most bearings tend to be round, I'll post a picture if I ever see a square one)  Two most useful sizes are 5x11x4mm (1150) and 5x8x2.5mm (850) bearings.  

https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-rc-ball-bearing-5x11x4mm-10pcs-yb6014m-s10-00000687

I have tried to stock up on parts that might break. That didn't turn out well. Lots of extra expenditures without noticeable convenience.  Bearings, however, came in handy more than several times.  I would buy stuff on ebay. Often, I wouldn't know if used cars come with bearings or not.  

If I'm too lazy to take the shields off, I'd just soak them in alcohol (beer does not count).  After a night of soaking I would re-lubing with machine oil. Metal shielded make excellent gearbox bearings. If I seal the gearbox with plumber's grease, I leave the balls naked.  Only where it's exposed to dirt and splashes I would use rubber-shielded bearings. (These went into Konghead)

 

Hey bro I know this is old but I need help. So I wanted a bearing that has a team losi hole wich I think is 3/16 but has the tamiya outer size 

[ASL2013]

In the UK a fantastic source of bearings is https://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?route=common/home

I've built loads of cars, trucks and tanks and just order from them at the same time I buy the kit. They often turn up before the kit does.

Bearings are supplied in kit form for each model or as single items with a choice of metal or rubber seals. I’ll sometimes buy one of each for a model.

The web site lists the bearing sizes for each model kit if you want to build up spares.

 

[Wooders28]

Handy chart, to convert tamiya sizes, to the rest of the world sizes (so you can get them from eBay, rc bearing outlet etc..)