Applying sticky decals over TS spray paint on styrene GH2 shell

[Frog_Dad 1]

Hey folks,

After being a dedicated Frog owner in the 80's, I'm now helping my son with his Grasshopper II.  He has chosen the Candy Lime Green paint colour (TS-52) and we be prepping the plastic styrene shell and spraying it soon.  Prepping will be as per here with a wash, a scuff, a wash, and a wipe dry,  Two mist coats and a final coat of TS-52.  Then once the paint is dry he will apply the decals.  I have searched everywhere and all I have found is that applying a clear lacquer over the stickers is not advisable. I am wondering how well the sticky decals adhere to TS paints 

So my question:  do the sticky decals adhere to TS paints just as well as they stick to the lexan/polycarbonate plastic shells ? 

Thanks,

FrogDad

[J@mes 2326]

Hi Frog_Dad, simple answer is yes. (Tamiya kit) Stickers stick well to (Tamiya TS) paint. 

[Frog_Dad 1]

9 minutes ago, J@mes said:

Hi Frog_Dad, simple answer is yes. (Tamiya kit) Stickers stick well to (Tamiya TS) paint. 

Thank you J@mes.

[whahooo 465]

Also the heat from a hair dryer will help them stick, especially over Edges.

[J@mes 2326]

^ this. For either poly or styrene shells the heat from a hair dryer (or lighter) will enhance the glue plus shape/ mold the sticker around contours brilliantly. There are other techniques for a good outcome with stickers too, like the soapy water technique. 

[Frog_Dad 1]

Thanks whahoo and again J@mes.    

Regarding the soapy water method to accurately position stickers and get out air bubbles, then drying them with a hairdryer, to me that suggests the water actually passes through the sticker to evaporate rather than  just being squeezed out the sides.  That doesn't make sense as the stickers are probably vinyl which is not permeable to water.  Maybe over many days the remaining water migrates out the sides, IDK.    Plus I would also be worried that a soap film would remain under the sticker reducing its adhesiveness.  Unless some Tamiya publication suggests it as an option, I'm gonna stay clear of using soapy water  to align the stickers !

[Busdriver 6209]

The soapy water/hair dryer method is def ok on Lexan and styrene shells. By using a smoothing action when you blow dry you actually see the moisture appearing at the edge of the sticker. I actually immerse my stickers in soapy warm water. This helps soften them before positioning then follow up with hair dryer and kitchen roll. In all the years that I have been doing it I can’t remember any sticker coming off!! A similar method is used by 1:1 car wrappers. Frankly I will carry on with this method until Tamiya or anybody else publishes something to the contrary 😍

[rich_f 233]

Yes the soap solution is squeezed out from under the vinyl. The vinyl doesn't stick anywhere there is still soap solution, so you can see exactly where any remains under the sticker and needs to be squeezed out. 

You need to use a squeegee to prevent islands of solution remaining under the sticker, and start from the centre and move to edges. 

I put the window tint film on my full-size car over 10 years ago with this method and it still remains stuck, plus 2 years ago I did my first 1:10th body using this method and haven't had any problems. In fact, it was the best sticker job I had ever done and is the method I (will) now employ on all builds. 

[Frog_Dad 1]

OK, thanks Busdriver and rich_f.   intriguing how the blow drying "pushes" the liquid to the edges.    I realise many pros use the method.   I might be convinced at this rate, although it might actually take the frustration of experiencing bubbles or misaligned stickers (when placing them on dry) to convince me to use the soap and water method !

[Busdriver 6209]

Get a piece of plastic and a offcut of sticker and try it out