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nel33

looking for a good RTR truck

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are there any goo RTR Traxxas models to buy that have good specs out of the box? i already put in total $600 into my TT02D chassis (building kit and spare parts) but dont have many places to run it during winter and covid restrictions. im looking for a solid RC truck RTR to run on most surfaces while not having to put too much $ into to have some fun driving in various surfaces and off road.  im looking into a Traxxas truck either a stampede kit with electronics TRA67014-4 $255, a slash RTR 2wd TRA58034-1 $235 or a TRA68054-1 SLASH 4X4 BRUSHED $306. i have 2 5000MaH NIMH battery with Tamiya connectors, one is not charged yet since i purchased it. would the Tamiya connectors hold up given i get the tamiya to traxxas plug adaptor. id like to use my current tamiya battery on a potential Traxxas truck but not at the cost of destroying the white tamiya plug due to amperage demands.

is the stampede better than the slash in other areas? does it make a huge difference between 2wd and 4x4 on some kits for casual fun. i would consider a 2wd slash but i dont know if it would be hard to get traction on certain running surfaces.i dont mind a pre-painted body with an RTR but i do think a mismatched paint body would be pretty fun to try and pull off on a truck or a car body in the future. i can consider a 4x4 stampede kit (with electronics) and still paint it how i want. i read that the stock battery and charger with the slash arent the most convenient out of the box.

im just looking for an easy $200-300 RC truck thats RTR without needing too many things to make it run conveniently and has a good battery run time. the TT02 will be strictly on road but id like something for off road to drive.

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I would say 4wd which will give you more versatility of surfaces.  That being said, Arrma and Team Associated also have competing RTR products to the Slash.  I've heard mixed things about the Slash but it's mainly around QA.  Also, Losi is a little higher, but also has a RTR product similar to the Slash to consider.

 

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We (me and 2 lads) have 3 2wd Stampedes. all picked up 2nd hand they are great reliable go pretty much anywhere bashers. Great fun on a BMX track.

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Stick with the 2WD versions. You won't need 4WD for general bashing around, and the great thing about the Traxxas 2WD architecture is that you can easily convert one vehicle to another, for just the cost of the few parts that are different. They're like Legos: everything fits everything.

I have an ancient Stampede that I really like, but if I were in the market now, I think I'd go for a basic 2WD Slash, especially with all the drag racing parts being made for them now. I love the idea that you can switch from a short-course off road truck to a pro street drag car just by swapping wheels/tires/body. (In fact, I'm considering converting my Stampede to a Slash just so I have an excuse to buy one of those drag bodies...)

As far as battery/charger go, I think you can still get a Slash without them. Then all you need to do is change that stupid proprietary Traxxas battery connector on the ESC for one that matches your TT02, and just use the same battery packs for both cars.

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thank you al for the replies. i guess i will go with the slash 2wd. i do have some questions regarding the slash 2wd and some hop ups from the get go. i do want to make it more reliable before some of the stuff can break. i dont plan to go too heavy into the hop ups from the get go but some that make it run better than stock. i do have a question regarding the steering servo arm, is the stock one any good or is it better to get a better one?  i do have a water proof 20KG full gear coreless high torque steering servo that i had to buy to make my TT02 a runner and it came with a aluminum servo arm. i'm considering this over stock Traxxas servo. i did have 1 snag with the aluminum servo arm, i had to buy a 3mm machined screw and locknut to make it a runner on the TT02. i needed that 3mm screw wo connect it to the steering arms.

is the stock oil sufficient for the kit and im planning to get hop up aluminum shocks for it right away before waiting for something to break. im already planning on purchasing team Losi 40wt shock oil for my TT02 shock hop ups (aluminum) and would that oil viscosity be good for the slash at the same time? im thinking of just skipping over aluminum shock caps and go full aluminum shock body. are the shocks for the 4x4 different from the 2wd model?

im considering the aluminum rear hubs and the aluminum steering spindle (not sure if the hex nut for the tire mount/bearing cap is plastic) and maybe steering linkage but maybe i can just get away with the steering spindle and rear hubs. im not sure if i will upgrade the steering arms in the short term but the spindle and hubs should make it sturdier. are the items you see on Amazon of good quality or is it better to go through Traxxas?

as for the battery issues, just what does the battery ID/ESC combo system do? does the ESC detect a non Traxxas battery and refuse to drive? i do plan on getting Tamiya to Traxxas plug converters or whatever is needed though im not sure what proprietary plug connector is on the ESC that comes with the kit

is there any special DC to AC adaptor i need if i choose to use the 3000MaH battery supplied as a spare and use the stupid cigarette lighter plug? 

EDIT: i just did a small shopping experiment on amazon without purchasing items yet, Aluminum caster blocks, steering blocks and rear stub axle carrier slash 2wd replaces 3632, 3736 3752 would be $56, not sure if the the length of the rear axle carrier makes a big difference?? 4 Hosim aluminum shocks $35-38 and the same steering servo+ aluminum arm i bought for my TT02 is $24 run up to $153 with a Losi 40wt  4OZ shock oil bottle. i can write off the cost of the shock oil (as i need it for the TT02 shock upgrades) from the cost of small upgrades to a slash 2wd.

 

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Aluminum hubs and spindles are for show. RPM heavy duty nylon hubs and spindles are what you want for durability. There is nothing stronger. But honestly, unless you're really abusing it, the stock parts are just fine. Metal wheel hexes aren't a bad idea, especially the kind that clamp on or attach with a set screw. Not necessarily for durability, more to keep the axle pins from falling out when you remove the wheels.

And no, batteries are batteries are batteries. You just have to set the ESC right for the kind of battery you're using (NiMH or Lipo) so it can detect the voltage and cut off when it drops too low (over-discahrging a lipo battery will ruin it). Just get the adapter plug and everything will work together fine.

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1 hour ago, markbt73 said:

Aluminum hubs and spindles are for show. RPM heavy duty nylon hubs and spindles are what you want for durability. There is nothing stronger. But honestly, unless you're really abusing it, the stock parts are just fine. Metal wheel hexes aren't a bad idea, especially the kind that clamp on or attach with a set screw. Not necessarily for durability, more to keep the axle pins from falling out when you remove the wheels. 

And no, batteries are batteries are batteries. You just have to set the ESC right for the kind of battery you're using (NiMH or Lipo) so it can detect the voltage and cut off when it drops too low (over-discahrging a lipo battery will ruin it). Just get the adapter plug and everything will work together fine.

 

thank you for the reply, so its pretty much an RM party then. are the electric VS nitro parts different or are they both compatible? metal wheel hexes are on the short list of any RC kit i'd buy, i guess the 4x4 models are same as the 2wd. trying to remove the broken plastic wheels hexes was interesting on the TT02 to say the least. i dont want to imagine a stripped plastic hex hub/brake rotor. im strongly considering the upgrade on the steering servo and arm. it depends on what material the servo saver arm is made of. i dont mind the plastic but a stronger arm is better and it comes with the servo. i would have to see then what hardware is needed to make the connections to the chassis. im also going for the aluminum shocks, dont want the top cap to blow off.

regarding the batteries, what sort of plug design am i to expect with the ID system? i presume i would need a male Tamiya connector and a standard female Traxxas connector cable. im guessing the ESC cable has a standard Traxxas connector. getting the adaptor cables shouldnt be an issue. i just dont want to start cutting and soldering wires at the moment

EDIT i KEEP forgetting to ask but which surfaces does the 2wd version not so do well on? i dont plan on running it on sand. mostly grass, mild dirt, road conditions and maybe a light dusting of snow.

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I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that you've been reading the Traxxas forums, or RCPlanet, or some YouTube reviews, from the kind of guys who stuff way too much power into these things, take them to a skate park, and beat them within an inch of their lives. To those guys, every upgrade is "essential," every part that fails after being pushed beyond its limits is "junk," and broken hubs/stripped hexes/blown shocks are the norm.

I hate to say it, and I don't mean any offense, but most of those guys are idiots.

Traxxas is a successful international company with 40 years in the business. You don't get to that point by making models that "need" to have parts upgraded right out of the box. Their models are among the most durable and reliable in the business, and hundreds of thousands of them (including my Stampede) are out there running around almost completely box-stock. I don't baby mine, but I also don't abuse it, and I have never broken anything but the stock steering servo when I hit a rock just wrong. And I have used Traxxas plastic shocks in plenty of other vehicles as well, and I have never blown a shock cap.

My advice: Pick the truck you like the looks of the best, and buy it. Get a battery adapter (I'm not super familiar with Traxxas connectors, but what you mentioned sounds right), and just go drive the thing, just as it is. You'll do fine on the surfaces and conditions you're talking about with a stock 2WD truck. If something breaks, replace it with something stronger. Don't over-think it.

Good luck, and have fun. That's the whole point.

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32 minutes ago, markbt73 said:

I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that you've been reading the Traxxas forums, or RCPlanet, or some YouTube reviews, from the kind of guys who stuff way too much power into these things, take them to a skate park, and beat them within an inch of their lives. To those guys, every upgrade is "essential," every part that fails after being pushed beyond its limits is "junk," and broken hubs/stripped hexes/blown shocks are the norm.

I hate to say it, and I don't mean any offense, but most of those guys are idiots.

Traxxas is a successful international company with 40 years in the business. You don't get to that point by making models that "need" to have parts upgraded right out of the box. Their models are among the most durable and reliable in the business, and hundreds of thousands of them (including my Stampede) are out there running around almost completely box-stock. I don't baby mine, but I also don't abuse it, and I have never broken anything but the stock steering servo when I hit a rock just wrong. And I have used Traxxas plastic shocks in plenty of other vehicles as well, and I have never blown a shock cap.

My advice: Pick the truck you like the looks of the best, and buy it. Get a battery adapter (I'm not super familiar with Traxxas connectors, but what you mentioned sounds right), and just go drive the thing, just as it is. You'll do fine on the surfaces and conditions you're talking about with a stock 2WD truck. If something breaks, replace it with something stronger. Don't over-think it.

Good luck, and have fun. That's the whole point.

Thank you for the reply,  yeah I do check YT to get an idea of what to replace in time to be cautious. It not a bible but it's useful to know what can break if abused too hard. I don't plan on running it that hard. I know Traxxas is a trusted brand  in RC quality but idiots always find a way to break things that are of good quality. The stock shock caps was one of the things that stood out a bit more with this model. I dont hate plastic servo arms but id gladly swap it out for a stronger aluminum one given a chance. 

Is rolling over the stock 2wd with abrupt turns common or its just a person driving like an madman? Im sure its a stable ride but im not sure how much body roll to expect. 

Too bad they don't given the option of painting a stock shell, the designs are nice but the patterns are a bit too busy for me. Though I'm still eyeing out the one that got bored one day and decided to drive through a car wash with children playing with hand paints and cheap spider man  web string LOL.

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1 hour ago, nel33 said:

Is rolling over the stock 2wd with abrupt turns common or its just a person driving like an madman? Im sure its a stable ride but im not sure how much body roll to expect. 

The 2wd “low CG” kit makes it much more stable. 
the stock high CG version slides well on dirt, but will sometimes traction roll on high traction surfaces. 

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10 hours ago, Dakratfink said:

The 2wd “low CG” kit makes it much more stable. 
the stock high CG version slides well on dirt, but will sometimes traction roll on high traction surfaces. 

thank you for the reply, it looks like a low CG tray might be on my list of things to buy in a year depending on how i setup the high CG shock mounts and learn to drive it and what makes it tick/roll over. i will do the usual reinforcement of the body shell with fiber tape and shoe goo.

are the slash 4x4 and 2x4 hex wheels nuts the same? im going to order metal ones as a back up/slight upgrade early on.

 

oh well the RTR truck was just ordered and i just realized the price i was looking at was USD, bit too great of a deal. it comes to $383 with taxes but i wont regret this (i think) but my wallet wont be happy with that dent...

im not completely sure which converter plugs i will need for the kit at the moment but i will find out when it comes in.

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You've received some great advice already, I'll just add that Traxxas vehicles are very well designed and built.  I would echo other suggestions to just buy what you like and run it as is until there is a need to upgrade.  One of my favorite basher vehicles is my 2wd Stampede.  I have a 4300kv brushless system in it and have run it pretty hard without breaking a single original part.  I haven't had to (or even felt the need to) upgrade a single part on this truck and it's had its fair share of roll-overs, cartwheels, 4+ foot jumps, etc.  Even the original plastic hexes are doing just fine.  I love upgrading as much as anyone, but on a vehicle like this just put some power to it and see what it will hold (answer is typically a lot when it comes to Traxxas).  If you do you need to upgrade go with RPM parts as @markbt73 said, they are worlds better than any aluminum upgrade out there, and they're lighter.

I do agree on the body though, but you can buy most Traxxas bodies in clear and paint to your liking.  Clear Slash bodies are about $30 on Ebay.

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21 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

You've received some great advice already, I'll just add that Traxxas vehicles are very well designed and built.  I would echo other suggestions to just buy what you like and run it as is until there is a need to upgrade.  One of my favorite basher vehicles is my 2wd Stampede.  I have a 4300kv brushless system in it and have run it pretty hard without breaking a single original part.  I haven't had to (or even felt the need to) upgrade a single part on this truck and it's had its fair share of roll-overs, cartwheels, 4+ foot jumps, etc.  Even the original plastic hexes are doing just fine.  I love upgrading as much as anyone, but on a vehicle like this just put some power to it and see what it will hold (answer is typically a lot when it comes to Traxxas).  If you do you need to upgrade go with RPM parts as @markbt73 said, they are worlds better than any aluminum upgrade out there, and they're lighter.

I do agree on the body though, but you can buy most Traxxas bodies in clear and paint to your liking.  Clear Slash bodies are about $30 on Ebay.

 

thanks, the aluminum look fine but as you said RPM are stronger, id have to find a place that sells those should i upgrade them.  sorry about that, i keep forgetting that RPM has better parts. my mind is still stuck that metal is usually stronger than plastic, even when RC body plastic is specially made to be tough to begin with... i dont know if i will ever get used to that train of thought... Jachobby has a RPM parts on their online catalog so i might find those parts when the time comes along to buy stronger new ones.

is there a specific model number for the slash 2wd shell or are they the same as 4x4? i havent yet tried running/testing my reinforced body shells but ive seen what happens when they stay stock already. its just a precaution.  i just ordered a slash 2wd with that "purple" body ie the multi color silly string design.

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TRA6811 is the SLash clear body, fits both the 2wd & 4wd models.  It's not that plastic is always better than aluminum, but in the case of suspension arms, knuckles, etc. RPM plastic will hold up better than aluminum parts (especially cast aluminum) because they can flex just enough but also not break.  Billet aluminum is tough, but is also way more expensive than RPM and adds unecessary weight.  Metal parts definitely have their place, but for durability on suspension components heavy duty nylon is the way to go.

I get it on the Traxxas bodies, most of their basher bodies are pretty ugly.  They do make some really nice bodies (TRX-4 & Bigfoot), but obviously they won't work on your slash.  I think you'll really like the truck, they are tough and fast.  One thing you can do to help durability of lexan bodies is use textured truck bed liner as the backing coat.  I've done this a couple times on truck that will be run hard and it does help add some strength.  Of course they can still break if abused hard enough, but it does help.  You can also go over the underside of the body with a heavy duty tape (gaffers tape, black duct tape, etc).  Have seen a few guys do this and it seem to work well.  

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6 hours ago, 87lc2 said:

TRA6811 is the SLash clear body, fits both the 2wd & 4wd models.  It's not that plastic is always better than aluminum, but in the case of suspension arms, knuckles, etc. RPM plastic will hold up better than aluminum parts (especially cast aluminum) because they can flex just enough but also not break.  Billet aluminum is tough, but is also way more expensive than RPM and adds unecessary weight.  Metal parts definitely have their place, but for durability on suspension components heavy duty nylon is the way to go.

I get it on the Traxxas bodies, most of their basher bodies are pretty ugly.  They do make some really nice bodies (TRX-4 & Bigfoot), but obviously they won't work on your slash.  I think you'll really like the truck, they are tough and fast.  One thing you can do to help durability of lexan bodies is use textured truck bed liner as the backing coat.  I've done this a couple times on truck that will be run hard and it does help add some strength.  Of course they can still break if abused hard enough, but it does help.  You can also go over the underside of the body with a heavy duty tape (gaffers tape, black duct tape, etc).  Have seen a few guys do this and it seem to work well.  

Thank you for the reply,  thanks for clearing up some of my confusion on aluminum vs nylon plastic parts. The RPM plastic makes more sense in some siuations and keeps the weight down, i never tried textured bed liner as a back coating but i did have to buy fiber tape normally used for dry wall repair and shoe glue for a tough and flexible reinforcement. I did that to fix a small crack on my GTR body front bumper. I did 2 layers on the GTR and 1 layer on the old 2nd half M2 coupe, the coupe would be a "basher" body that I won't mind too much if it breaks. MY GTR body shell weighs arpund 220grams with all the reinforcement done. Not sure yet on how much reinforcement I will do on a slash body but the top half will get 2 layers of reinforcement.

If I see a good price for a clear slash body I will get one, first I need to wait 2weeks or more for the truck. Currently back order but shouldn't take that long.im sure the slash will be lots of fun, my TT02 is fun to drive but there aren't convenient places for it in winter.. There is a big park near my parents house that is great for bikes and RC trucks.

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is there a good set of RC tools that will work well on Traxxas and Tamiya? i will be needing to get some specific tool size sets as my generic auto mechanic tools can only go so far. are there any suggestions on a good kit? as far as the Tamiya tools go its just those tiny Philips heads for the plastic differentials that are a headache to work with. i see a traxxas tool 11piece kit on amazon for $47. i notice this set has #00, 0 and 1 phillips heads. will these also work on Tamiya sets?

i am considering a low CG conversion for the slash whenever it arrive in the mid to long term. it not going to be an out of the box upgrade as i will run the slash as stock as possible though a full metal gear servo would be better from the get go. i have a few other upgrades in mind for the long term that i can do buy  much later or on a need to replace basis. im not planning on tearing down a fully built RTR in the short term for a low CG tray. 

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Tamiya actually uses mostly JIS screws (Japan Industrial Standard, idenfied by a small dot on the screw head). With Phillips or Pozidriv you risk damaging the screws.

The official RC Tool Set is great and can be often found on at very sensible price https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74085tool_set/index.htm

I can't say about Traxxas tools but MIP hex drivers especially are considered the best available.

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1 hour ago, Gazebo said:

Tamiya actually uses mostly JIS screws (Japan Industrial Standard, idenfied by a small dot on the screw head). With Phillips or Pozidriv you risk damaging the screws.

The official RC Tool Set is great and can be often found on at very sensible price https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74085tool_set/index.htm

I can't say about Traxxas tools but MIP hex drivers especially are considered the best available.

thank you for the reply, im aware Tamiya uses JIS which is why i had so many issues with the small screws. i wasnt sure if the Traxxas and Tamiya were compatible. it might seem like i will need to buy 2 kits... so far all the hardware on my Tamiya is stock and no Hex anywhere on it so far.

i ordered the 74085 Tamiya set just now. that darn diff took years off my life from stress. the kit should be good for a while i dont plan on buying any new chassis or models in the future (hopefully) and plan to keep the Tamiya model mostly stock. this forum site has some weird auto correct thing for light words that have negative connotation i cant even type out the name of what a beaver builds its house of branches without having it censored... i guess they are extra careful here.

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The tool set @Gazebo recommended is great, I have been using the JIS drivers from that set for years and they still work like new, would never use a Phillips head on Tamiya screws again.  

For other vehicles (Traxxas, etc.) get a nice set of hex drivers.  1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm are the most common sizes you'll use.  I couldn't live without my hex drivers, use them daily.  If you're doing a lot of wrenching get a small cordless impact, will save a tone of time and your wrists.  

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You really should consider the Kyosho Outlaw Rampage.  For $149, you can not go wrong

https://www.kyoshoamerica.com/34361T1B-Outlaw-Rampage-White-EP-2WD-2RSA-RS_p_25048.html

For a little more money you can get the fully decked out version $219

https://www.kyoshoamerica.com/34362-Outlaw-Rampage-PRO-Kit-2WD_p_25824.html

Here is the review from BigSquid

https://www.bigsquidrc.com/kyosho-outlaw-rampage-pro-kit-review/

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Thank you for the replies. Regarding the Traxxas hardware, just to confirm those are hex  head hardware? I found a Traxxas set for $56 and also a metal handle non Traxxas brand hex set 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0 and 5.5 hex socket along with a 1#- 0#× for $21 on amazon. I did have to buy a good phillips #2 for the tamiya build when i didnt have the peoper tools. My old craftsman tip was lazy/bit rounded and a mastercraft with a smaller sharper flat ended tip fit very well. Id say it was a +95% match but  im sure JIS was a bit different but that better #2 phillips was leagues better than craftsman. i chose the 8 in 1 set that works for traxxas going for $21. it should work fine i presume.

@Raman, thanks for the info. If I'm looking into a 3rd platform I will consider a Kyosho outlaw revenge. I'm trying to keep this RC thing at a reasonable limit at least for my first year to just 2 models ie TT02D and Slash 2WD. Im sure i might consider and the one in the long term if it bites me hard enough. I already ordered a 2wd slash around a week ago, too bad I didn't look into Kyosho before making the choice Doh!

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Yes, Traxxas will be mostly hex head hardware (as are most other brands besides Tamiya).  I have bought some of the hex driver sets from Amazon and sometimes they're good, sometimes they're bad.  Since you're dealing with very small heads here, if the tool is too soft they will round off on no time.  I bought this set a year ago to have in my other workspace and they have held up surprisingly well  for a cheaper set - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJ9CK85/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

MIP drivers are the standard, but very $$$$.  Not sure on the Traxxas tools, but I'm sure they are of good quality as well.  

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41 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

Yes, Traxxas will be mostly hex head hardware (as are most other brands besides Tamiya).  I have bought some of the hex driver sets from Amazon and sometimes they're good, sometimes they're bad.  Since you're dealing with very small heads here, if the tool is too soft they will round off on no time.  I bought this set a year ago to have in my other workspace and they have held up surprisingly well  for a cheaper set - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJ9CK85/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

MIP drivers are the standard, but very $$$$.  Not sure on the Traxxas tools, but I'm sure they are of good quality as well.  

thank you for the reply. i went with this set though i did bookmark/save for later the one you mentioned. both these sets are cheaper price than the Traxxas branded one for +$45. if the set i ordered doesnt hold up as well as id like them to then im out $21, no big deal and order the ones you mentioned.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08LZR1GPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

there didnt seem too much price difference between the good Tamiya sets at this point in time..

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