Shock oil weight

[Busdriver 6209]

I am looking for some 25wt shock oil, but most seems to be labelled with numbers in the hundreds. Is there an equivalent in the hundreds?

[mud4fun 1696]

The hundreds are cst (centistokes)

25wt is 300cst I think?

Edit: correction, it was 200-300 depending on which conversion chart you read!!!

Modelsport have a chart as the 2nd image on their core RC oils here

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-silicone-shock-oil-400-cst-60ml-/rc-car-products/366810

 

 

 

 

[Jonathon Gillham 4606]

1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

I am looking for some 25wt shock oil, but most seems to be labelled with numbers in the hundreds. Is there an equivalent in the hundreds?

CST is an actuak measure so if you find them rated in that then it should be consistent across brands. I say should, can never be sure about these things.

WT is a made up measurement and a lot of manufacturers use it, but they're all different, so only useful if you know whcih brand it is, or to compare relative wt within a brand.

Its best to buy shock oils from 1 brand and stick to it. I bought Losi oil as I got a 6 pack for about NZD30 which had a whole range. Then another 6 pack with the rest of them. When I was trying to find a range I usually couldn't find someone with the whole range in stock, and they can often be $12 a bottle which adds up quick.

I would stick to a known brand for shock oil, mostly because they should remain consistent over time. If you get a brand like Trackstar the oil will be fine, but the 25wt oil you buy this year maybe different to the 25wt oil next year. That probably isn't a problem though for bashing(or even racing,it will be close enough).

[mud4fun 1696]

17 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

CST is an actuak measure so if you find them rated in that then it should be consistent across brands. I say should, can never be sure about these things.

.

Yes, that is what I thought until I looked and found that several manufacturers are listing 25wt as being equivalent to different CST however I guess it just means that they are actually not all equal definitions of 'wt' so when mapped to CST they equate to different numbers? Don't you just love 'standards' 

[Busdriver 6209]

Gone with 238CST along with some green slime.

[Jonathon Gillham 4606]

2 hours ago, mud4fun said:

Yes, that is what I thought until I looked and found that several manufacturers are listing 25wt as being equivalent to different CST however I guess it just means that they are actually not all equal definitions of 'wt' so when mapped to CST they equate to different numbers? Don't you just love 'standards' 

Sorry I meant that anything that is measured in CST (like Tamiya and Kyosho) should be consistent across different brands, so a 400CST Tamiya will (should) be the same as 400CST Kyosho.

WT is a manufacturers own measure, so a 25WT Losi will be different to a 25WT Associated oil, and you need to convert to CST to see which one is lighter/heavier.  WT is only useful if you are comparing within the brand, so you know that 25WT Losi oil is lighter than 30WT Losi oil, but 25WT Losi oil may be lighter or heavier than 30WT Associated oil.

 

I have these 2 packs giving me a full range of Losi oil from 17.5wt - 45wt.  The price has gone up since I got them though!

https://www.rchobbies.co.nz/team-losi-tlr74019-certified-silicone-shock-oil-6-pack-2oz-17-5-22-5-27-5-32-5-37-5-42-5wt/

https://www.rchobbies.co.nz/team-losi-tlr74020-certified-silicone-shock-oil-6-pack-2oz-20-25-30-35-40-45wt/

[whahooo 465]

Hello, i want to rebuild my Clod shocks because they are leaking.

Also i want to fill my Lunchbox shocks with thinner oil.

 

What would be an equivalent to Tamiya Red oil the thinnest of them all??

And what O Rings should i use? Tamiya Orange ones? (I have them at home, but there are transparent and blue O-rings TRF branded)

[sosidge 624]

Tamiya don't state whether their oils are CST, but since they are measured in 100s I'm going with the assumption they are.

Red is #200 I think so #200cst is what I'd replace with.

I doubt there is any benefit to TRF o-rings in your shocks. The orange ones are nice and soft anyway. I don't even use the fancy TRF o-rings in my racers because the clear o-rings that they come with are normally the best ones.

[whahooo 465]

Since the soft oildset of tamiya is on sale on Amazon, i got the 3 soft Bottles (red orange yellow).

What oil would you recommend for a DT-03 and a DT-02?

Both of them are bottoming out if i let them fall from about 20 cm.
The DT-03 hat the Kits CVAs and the DT-02 has some generic china Aluminium Dampers (but suprisingly they seem to work).
Both cars seem to be quite sticky and slow. So if i lift a wheel manually (especially in the rear end) the whole chassis lifts.....    but if i let it fall from more than 10 cm it bottoms out because of the force of the impact....

[alvinlwh 5895]

2 hours ago, whahooo said:

What oil would you recommend for a DT-03 and a DT-02?

Both of them are bottoming out if i let them fall from about 20 cm.
 

 

[Theibault 1535]

I find this chart to be helpful. You can roughly go by weight compared to other brands by dropping the last 0.

 

[whahooo 465]

Is Anyone interrested in a list for Tamiya Fun models (no racers)?

 

I would love to see what Oil you are using.

 

For me i have a Oilrecommondation:

Tamiya Lunchbox:

CVAs with Fixed Metal pistons without Holes

Front: Orange 300 Oil

Rear: Red 200 Oil

 

Tamiya Coldbuster:

8 Thin 110mm dualrate chinese schocks

Red 200 Oil all around with both soft Springs on each shock

 

Tamiya Sand Scorcher:

Standard Kit shocks all around

Standard yellow 300 oil all around

 

Tamiya King Cab:

Standard Kit shocks all around

Standard yellow 300 oil all around

 

 

 

For my Rally cars i use standard CVAs with 3 Holes, but i dont know if i should use other oil....

If i let them fall from 15cm they bounce up and down 1 or 2 times, but they should have soft shocks for Bumps and stuff. On the other hand, they are so soft that they roll a lot on tarmac when cornering... when i corner and accalerate without braking after the Turn, they are "locked in" and still hold a "not so slight" curve. So they aren't driving straight after a turn unles i brake afterwards.....

[alvinlwh 5895]

@whahooo

Lunchbox

Front: 1 hole & #600 Rear: "springless" shocks

Not fully tested this setup yet. 

Thunder Dragon

Front: 1 hole & #700 Rear: 3 hole & #300

Runs great, cured my traction roll problem. 

Holiday Buggy (using DT-03 CVA set) 

Front: #300 Rear: #700, kit springs 

Runs great, stuck like glue to tarmac. 

Still to mess around with, M-05Ra and TT-01(Ra).

Not built yet, M-06.