Turbo Scorpion - Dreaded Decals....

[Golden 169]

Just finished my Turbo Scorpion build, which was a really nice process (although my roll bar has a crack in one of the corners from the factory - only disappointed by that due to the quality of the other parts!) - painted the shell Tamiya ps-1 white - all lovely - but.... completely ruined the rest of my day by making a complete hash of the decals.....

Please could someone offer some advice? I started off well, with the nose cone and “nostrils” looking great  - used soapy water and a hairdryer - and had no real issue with positioning - but when it came to folding the longer side decals and rear quarter ones around the curves - complete disaster. Had bubbles and all sorts which wouldn’t squeeze out, and when I tried to use a hairdryer again I over stretched them. Ruined what was a great build and a pretty little car - and had an “emotional” moment - (I did my special swearing and everything).

I ended up remove the lot and ordered a new body (as couldn’t find the decals separately) - but I have no idea how to avoid making the same mess next time round. Really appreciate some tips on how best to fold the decals over a panel line where there’s a change in angle - so the long side decals in particular fold up and over the horizontal swage line which runs along the length of the body..... should I start at one end of the car and stick top and bottom, stretching as I go, or start at the bottom (folding them up seemed to cause the problem...).

I’ve done lots of decals before without issue - but really struggled and made a complete messed of it here. Grateful for some tips, particularly with using the hairdryer - and avoiding over stretching....

Someone else I came across had dunked each decal in very warm soapy water to soften them up first...

I need a hug, dag-nam-it... :-(

 

 

[Finnsllc 917]

One of the things u may try on those long decals is leaving the backing on and test fitting to get some muscle memory. then only remove a third of the backing from the front. making sure the initial placement is correct. Body contors are tough. Lots of practice basically. But yeah the soapy water thing works. The hairdryr works. Just go slow.

[VileQuenouille 246]

2 minutes ago, Finnsllc said:

One of the things u may try on those long decals is leaving the backing on

I’ll be starting my Turbo scorpion build next week, and I had the same idea in mind. Even if Kyosho stickers are precut I think it’s worth cutting the backing for each of them. It will allow me to test fit each stickers, sometimes I like using some masking tape to hold them on the body and fine tune the placement before I start removing the backing.

[Golden 169]

Thanks for this - is it best to try to fit the whole of a section of decal - so if I remove a third of the length of the backing - fit the whole of that length, and then move on to the next portion?
 

I think I was matching the lower part of the decal to the bottom of the shell (as it has a stripe around the lower part which follows the bottom of the shell....) - and then tried to fold the whole thing up in one go - and this led to the problems.... the decals are quite tough (thicker than Tamiya I think) - so maybe soaking in hot water with soap in might help too - or just rely on the hairdryer....

For the Tamiya models I know they’re not precut so I spend a huge amount of time cutting them out with a scalpel - and then remove a small slither of backing to position, and slowly unfurl the decal from there. I think these are thicker so but more hairdryer and slowly, slowly as suggested. 
 

Thanks for the advice  - will see how I go once the next batch of decals arrive. If I make a hash of that then I’m going to mask and paint the second shell instead!

Hate not being able to do things properly....!

 

[Finnsllc 917]

@Golden yeah man  i would cut them out completly. I use a hobby knife basically a scalpel. If you dont trust your hand use a pair of scissors. Then just test fit. remeber the decal will move based on shape so a gentle pull to keep it on track is needed or it will follow a strait line. press the bubbles out as u go but stop if u feel a crease is forming, go back and re adjust. Im not a soapy water fan because the decal wont stick so fine adjustments dont work.  my opinion.

[Golden 169]

Thanks - I’ll cut them out completely and then try to fit bit by bit. 
 

Completely stupid - but it ruined my day! Buggy can be TOTALLY ruined at what should be the easy bit!

Thanks for the help everyone. 

[Golden 169]

Second effort.... one side has some tiny bubbles and one of the front corner lines doesn’t quite line up, but overall, it’s not bad. Just have to paint the driver once I can get some flat red and gloss yellow to copy the box art. And now to stress over whether to include the top fog roll bar....  thanks for the help everyone. In the end I used a spray bottle of water and soap and dragged the decal through soapy water too - and used a hairdryer to fix in position amd dry out the water.  Couldn’t get a slither of backing off the decals for this model in order to place before unfurling like on my Tamiya models - but overall it’s ok...

 

 

[bartman77 16]

bowl of water with afew drops of dishwashing liquid ,, peel the sticker dip it in the bowl and put in place can move it aroud til its were its going to live then lighty rub the water out from underneath and dry it off 

[bartman77 16]

[KEV THE REV 2307]

Looks good . If you don't use the soapy method it can be a 'one hit' chance to get it right , some people don't use it and fair play to that  . I always use soapy method and squeegie out the air and water , then some light warmth . Never had a problem .

[Golden 169]

Thanks - the bowl of soapy water was the extra bit which helped from my previous effort. I was using a soapy spray solution - but I’m now a convert!

[Superluminal 3750]

I screwed mine up exactly the same way. I used the big scorpion sticker on the nose in its place.

[Golden 169]

I haven't attached the “1:10th rc buggy” type sticker (a rare break with my box-art OCD fettish/lack of imagination) - but the bonnet does look a bit empty. Might use one of the turbo scorpion “shield” type stickers. 
 

Oh.... the first-world stress problems I have to deal with....

[Creflo 15]

I have a new Optima re re, and I can either paint the body, or use supplied decals.  I'm not experienced at either decals or painting bodies, which would everyone suggest to get the best box art finish?

[Willy iine 18804]

15 hours ago, Creflo said:

I have a new Optima re re, and I can either paint the body, or use supplied decals.  I'm not experienced at either decals or painting bodies, which would everyone suggest to get the best box art finish?

The decals are quite a task if you’re not familiar with application.  It requires mild slip solution and heat along with the knowledge of how to properly apply.  

It does look fantastic at the end though.. Kogawa-san complimented me for “perfection”.. he said that a fan designed the decals for free as the special yellow paint was no longer available. 

TurboScorpion decals were easy to apply in comparison.