Jump to content
paullyjay

My first Clod, Updated - Son Uva Digger Tribute

Recommended Posts

I got one in the mail yesterday also...

RQWEn8U.jpg

Now to finish getting my workbench cleaning off.  :huh:

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ran out of TS 50 Mica Blue, so the Clodbuster body will have to be on hold until another can arrives... But luckily I have a Polycarbonate shell for bashing and a plan B...

IMG_6298.jpg.aee29e7f82decfe3fbb27f4fea779cef.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought I’d do something a little different... So - Hoonicorn Tribute...

2528DBA1-0A8F-4B9E-985C-3281BC66F9A3.jpeg.f0f9b439d18cccd691dbd2e5cdeaefec.jpeg

IMG_6306.jpg.88815f98fac185267eacd74e54831fe4.jpg

IMG_6311.jpg.4f7effbf8bdd38613f7ef3eea5fec299.jpg

IMG_6307.jpg.f357a8d2eaf5ae95781412e33266be57.jpg

IMG_6312.jpg.e421fb764fd56c43dba87b45903fbc9d.jpg

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took it out for it’s first run on the weekend.... OMG.... It is soooooo bad - at full throttle across my garden it is weaving all over the place! Bump Steer is worse than my old lunchbox and sometimes it doesn’t even steer!

I’m so glad I bought some upgrades in advance... I know a few of you have said run it with a single servo and enjoy it, but DANG!!!! Anyways, here’s a couple of photos of it in daylight!

IMG_6318.jpg.6cc722f201d9f6e226af467c81655a95.jpg

IMG_6319.jpg.b2662eba6dfb883878775ab4f6496402.jpg

IMG_6321.jpg.3d33fc6e8512db572a82aef0529bfdc3.jpg

I think I’m going to get on with the updates...

IMG_6323.jpg.c47a7c15adf7254e77c5be14a7a70638.jpg

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have fitted 2 of the upgrades - what a difference - this truck is a joy to drive now, still a bit bouncy and a little unpredictable, but it tracks in a straight line now at full throttle, rather than weaving all over the place... When I took out the old steering linkage, all of the long bars were already bent up quite badly and I only ran it around the garden for 20 mins!

Even in comparison to some of the cheaper Tamiyas (like the Hornet or Lunchbox) this is a rattly old beast! I have a feeling that most of the noise is coming from the shock top mounts...

So now it has an aluminium chassis plate (for strengthening and about 1 1/2" wheelbase stretch) and axle mounted steering...

1875378019_IMG_6328(1).thumb.jpeg.5e7945981a7b4deb3f8a3257221fac1e.jpeg

1198599615_IMG_6325(1).thumb.jpeg.4f04ff534937465599f724ba13f8184d.jpeg

1739717057_IMG_6330(1).thumb.jpeg.ce0eedafff7c33c7a4b5b19dd5e0a66a.jpeg

1811889789_IMG_6329(1).thumb.jpeg.d22e5928f650a488caa452b1330feb7d.jpeg

50157245_IMG_6331(1).thumb.jpeg.ddc46e8c83741f8d3d2bac16028e47aa.jpeg

1884267674_IMG_6332(1).thumb.jpeg.87b9c64340fdb612c377b240b27c6e10.jpeg

497455888_IMG_6333(1).thumb.jpeg.b4753c537b76e020433a1c708136b09e.jpeg

 

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SAHWEET!!! 😁👍👍 You've really made an improvement.

Just the Wheelbase stretch alone makes quite a visual impact. 😎  I'm DEFINITELY doing that to mine.

And I would have been one of the Guys FOR 4 Wheel Steering!! Even if both Servos are tied into one Channel - for just extra Steering - not Crab Steer or being able to select Front or Rear. 

My last Clod went all the way back to 1988!! 😳  We never had a good option for Axle Mounted Servos.  Our "fix" back then was using 1/4 Scale Servos, just replacing the USELESS one in the middle. We tried BRUTE FORCE on those stock bendy Rods!! 😖  As you've just discovered, Servos on Axles not ONLY gives much more Steering - but binning all those CRAP Steering Links on TOP of the Axles, frees up the Suspension for more up travel!!! 😁😊😎

I am SO looking forward to getting mine - IF they're still in stock when I get my Inheritance.....

As far as the bouncy ride... Clods have been plagued with a bigger version of the SAME problem that Lunchboxes, Grasshoppers and Hornets have....... 

MOST OF ITS WEIGHT IS UNDER THE SHOCKS!!! And, the Springs are WAY too stiff! The Springs are actually PUSHING UP the Chassis - instead of the Chassis pushing down on the Springs. 😲

Replacing at least 4 of the 8 Dampers with Oil Shocks DOES help. But going with SOFT Axial Wraith Springs (all 8), will make the Suspension actually WORK like a Suspension! 😉

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bit late to this party (LOVE a Clod party!)...

Onto the first post about speed and motors, my thread from many years ago should provide some insight. I played around with a vintage I bought and ended up settling with the stock silver cans and 3S battery using a Traxxas dual motor ESC - It is absolutely as fast as I can handle now, like, any faster and it would break every time I used it. I do not see the point of faster motors. Just throw a good esc and use 3S and you're DONE!!!

Wish I had picked up the Black Edition, out of all my toys, the Clod actually remains the most used. It is absolutely the biggest joy to drive and for me, represents the best of the hobby from the pinnacle in the 80's. Like, take yours to the beach and see how much fun it is (with dunes etc). They're just a blast. 

Only word of warning, is when you use more powerful batteries etc. I have learned to never drive it on anything but sand and dirt/gravel. Anything else and you break stuff. Even grass is a bit touch and go. 

My thread below, enjoy!

:

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

......... I'm doing THIS!!! 😁

If you have, or know anyone that has a 3D Printer, this is all out the cheapest solution for twin Servo on Axle Clod Steering - that EVEN keeps the Bumpers!!! 💯👏👏👏👏👏👏

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's actually pretty impressive. God I've been toying with the thought of buying a 3D printer for years... give me strength to resist...

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, JNSD1 said:

That's actually pretty impressive. God I've been toying with the thought of buying a 3D printer for years... give me strength to resist...

I gave up!! 😜  Mine's coming in about a Month. 😁😁  Of COURSE how long is it going to take me to figure out how to turn the dang thing ON!? .... I'm Old, and a bit techno-stupid! 

If you go through that Channel, he's got many clever Tamiya solutions.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/11/2021 at 8:35 AM, Carmine A said:

Replacing at least 4 of the 8 Dampers with Oil Shocks DOES help. But going with SOFT Axial Wraith Springs (all 8), will make the Suspension actually WORK like a Suspension! 😉

This is definitely on my list of mods, but I think I’m going to wait for a while before doing it... I’m quite enjoying how it drives now... I might experiment by removing one spring from each corner to see how that is...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/11/2021 at 11:21 PM, JNSD1 said:

Bit late to this party (LOVE a Clod party!)...

Onto the first post about speed and motors, my thread from many years ago should provide some insight. I played around with a vintage I bought and ended up settling with the stock silver cans and 3S battery using a Traxxas dual motor ESC - It is absolutely as fast as I can handle now, like, any faster and it would break every time I used it. I do not see the point of faster motors. Just throw a good esc and use 3S and you're DONE!!!

I like the idea of 3s with stock silver cans, but I have read that they’re not rated for the extra voltage and a few years ago, when I tried doing this on a buggy with a hobby wing 1060 esc the motor got ridiculously hot and really smelled like something was burning... (it was really fast though!)

The other thing is - what battery do you use and how do you get it to fit in the chassis?

I purchased  a couple of HPI firebolts to try, I’ve had really good results with these in the past on buggies and Lunchboxes, so I’ll probably try both permutations (3s with silver cans and 2s with firebolts, my HW 880 will let me go up to 4S!) and see which works best for where and how I drive it...

I’m going to work my way through your thread tonight, I’m looking forward to seeing what you did with your Clod!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/14/2021 at 2:58 PM, Carmine A said:

......... I'm doing THIS!!! 😁

If you have, or know anyone that has a 3D Printer, this is all out the cheapest solution for twin Servo on Axle Clod Steering - that EVEN keeps the Bumpers!!! 💯👏👏👏👏👏👏

The thing that really got my attention here was the dual esc’s... I wonder how they’re connected to the RX...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I spent a bit of time this weekend tidying up the electrics and programming the ESC... I swear, when I was a kid things were never this complicated!!

IMG_6395.jpg.2e72454ba136f57e22c98a26ee1cb9e0.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, paullyjay said:

The thing that really got my attention here was the dual esc’s... I wonder how they’re connected to the RX...

He's running a 6 Channel Radio. With that setup, he can run 2 or 4WD.

Also, the TBLE-02 ESC can't handle 2 Motors. He just wanted to use up his stockpile of those ESCs!! 😉 

He also modified those ESCs, with the trick in my Thread - which adds LIPO CUTOFF to Tamiya ESC!!! 👍👍😎

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, paullyjay said:

I spent a bit of time this weekend tidying up the electrics and programming the ESC... I swear, when I was a kid things were never this complicated!!

IMG_6395.jpg.2e72454ba136f57e22c98a26ee1cb9e0.jpg

Yeah.... The 80's!! Although Mechanical Speed Controllers were no fun, got HOT, and burned out easily - plus wasted more energy! 

You'll see a Rat's Nest... Wait till I build my Grand Hauler!! 😲😲  With MFC, Sound and Lights!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, paullyjay said:

I like the idea of 3s with stock silver cans, but I have read that they’re not rated for the extra voltage and a few years ago, when I tried doing this on a buggy with a hobby wing 1060 esc the motor got ridiculously hot and really smelled like something was burning... (it was really fast though!)

The other thing is - what battery do you use and how do you get it to fit in the chassis?

I purchased  a couple of HPI firebolts to try, I’ve had really good results with these in the past on buggies and Lunchboxes, so I’ll probably try both permutations (3s with silver cans and 2s with firebolts, my HW 880 will let me go up to 4S!) and see which works best for where and how I drive it...

I’m going to work my way through your thread tonight, I’m looking forward to seeing what you did with your Clod!

The setup I'm running had had absolutely zero problems, and I've used it a bit. Have run it so hard in sand, grass, mud, wet, dry anything. This is likely due to the high end ESC - which is expensive. It's the Traxxas EVX-2. You will see on page two of my thread I went through all of this after a lot of discussion and reading. Without a good ESC you will have issues, not with this one though.

I am using a Turnigy Nano-Tech 3300mAh 35-70c discharge Lipo from Hobby King. But you can use anything as long as they're not too long to fit in the holder. It fits perfect, no issues at all.

Enjoy the thread, it's a rollercoaster lol. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, JNSD1 said:

The setup I'm running had had absolutely zero problems, and I've used it a bit. Have run it so hard in sand, grass, mud, wet, dry anything. This is likely due to the high end ESC - which is expensive. It's the Traxxas EVX-2. You will see on page two of my thread I went through all of this after a lot of discussion and reading. Without a good ESC you will have issues, not with this one though.

I am using a Turnigy Nano-Tech 3300mAh 35-70c discharge Lipo from Hobby King. But you can use anything as long as they're not too long to fit in the holder. It fits perfect, no issues at all.

Enjoy the thread, it's a rollercoaster lol. 

@paullyjay I definitely concur with this. I'll add, for the less experienced - NO Sealed Can Brushed Motor really likes 3S. And 4S is a prompt DEATH WISH!!🔥 ⚰ 

As far as Lipo Discharge Rates..... especially if you're going in the 23-35 Turn Sealed Can range...  Stick with Batteries in the 30C to 50C Discharge Rate range. 😉 

First of all, a Clod is not a Racecar, or Short Course Truck. The 60C to 120C and UP range is not only overkill - but with THAT level of Amp Draw, in a really heavy, geared too high, big FAT Tire Truck - is a recipe for OVERHEATED Motors, ESCs (even good ones, BESIDES Tekin), AND a Lipo Battery, discharging THAT fast, into something THAT heavy, produces an Amp Load that's just DANGEROUS!!! Especially for the ones that would fit in a Clodbuster!!! 

Heat Sinks on your Motors, is one of the best things you can do! Also, an ESC Fan. You won't get much air cooling inside a big Tub... There's CHEAP ESC Fans and Mounting Brackets out there.  Clip on Motor Heat Sinks are REALLY Cheap, and all over Evilbay and Amazon. 😊

Lipos have become SO common and widespread, that too many People are starting to get complacent again!! The Batteries ARE better now... But they still require just a bit of Common Sense handling, and the RIGHT Batteries for the right application. 😉 

I don't have any expensive Lipos... Couldn't afford them till just lately. But all of my Discharge Rates are between 25C and 40C. The worst load coming from my 12.4LB Axial Wraith, running a Brushless System and a 3S, 35C, 4000 MAh Lipo. I've climbed up to a 60 Degree angle, gone through soft Sand.... And at 3 years old, the two Lipos I used in it, AREN'T swollen in the least, and never get warm!! 👍👍  

 

{And, as some of you know, I'm in Arizona. I've also got the good sense NOT to take any Lipo out on a 110-120 Degree F Day!!!}😲😊

...... I'm just sharing my 40+ Years in the RC Hobby, to try to give info that will hopefully help all of you enjoy the Hobby to the fullest - but also to not get hurt, or lose a substantial investment.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

@paullyjay I definitely concur with this. I'll add, for the less experienced - NO Sealed Can Brushed Motor really likes 3S. And 4S is a prompt DEATH WISH!!🔥 ⚰ 

As far as Lipo Discharge Rates..... especially if you're going in the 23-35 Turn Sealed Can range...  Stick with Batteries in the 30C to 50C Discharge Rate range. 😉 

First of all, a Clod is not a Racecar, or Short Course Truck. The 60C to 120C and UP range is not only overkill - but with THAT level of Amp Draw, in a really heavy, geared too high, big FAT Tire Truck - is a recipe for OVERHEATED Motors, ESCs (even good ones, BESIDES Tekin), AND a Lipo Battery, discharging THAT fast, into something THAT heavy, produces an Amp Load that's just DANGEROUS!!! Especially for the ones that would fit in a Clodbuster!!! 

Heat Sinks on your Motors, is one of the best things you can do! Also, an ESC Fan. You won't get much air cooling inside a big Tub... There's CHEAP ESC Fans and Mounting Brackets out there.  Clip on Motor Heat Sinks are REALLY Cheap, and all over Evilbay and Amazon. 😊

Lipos have become SO common and widespread, that too many People are starting to get complacent again!! The Batteries ARE better now... But they still require just a bit of Common Sense handling, and the RIGHT Batteries for the right application. 😉 

I don't have any expensive Lipos... Couldn't afford them till just lately. But all of my Discharge Rates are between 25C and 40C. The worst load coming from my 12.4LB Axial Wraith, running a Brushless System and a 3S, 35C, 4000 MAh Lipo. I've climbed up to a 60 Degree angle, gone through soft Sand.... And at 3 years old, the two Lipos I used in it, AREN'T swollen in the least, and never get warm!! 👍👍  

 

{And, as some of you know, I'm in Arizona. I've also got the good sense NOT to take any Lipo out on a 110-120 Degree F Day!!!}😲😊

...... I'm just sharing my 40+ Years in the RC Hobby, to try to give info that will hopefully help all of you enjoy the Hobby to the fullest - but also to not get hurt, or lose a substantial investment.

You could be right, but without direct experience with this setup, you could be wrong. I've put plenty of 3S Lipo's through the Clod over the past 4 years with that setup and thrashed it. Never had any issues, so I base my experience exactly off that, experience.

Burning out silver cans isn't an issue, they're cheap, if I burnt out the ESC I would be very unhappy, but this ESC is desiged to handle this, so I don't see the issue.

There are plenty more experienced than me in this exact setup with Clod's (I only have a paltry 35+ years in the hobby ;))

Maybe @Percymon or @MadInventor or @tonysmini have an opinion on this...?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, JNSD1 said:

You could be right, but without direct experience with this setup, you could be wrong. I've put plenty of 3S Lipo's through the Clod over the past 4 years with that setup and thrashed it. Never had any issues, so I base my experience exactly off that, experience.

Burning out silver cans isn't an issue, they're cheap, if I burnt out the ESC I would be very unhappy, but this ESC is desiged to handle this, so I don't see the issue.

There are plenty more experienced than me in this exact setup with Clod's (I only have a paltry 35+ years in the hobby ;))

Maybe @Percymon or @MadInventor or @tonysmini have an opinion on this...?

@Carmine A post is good solid safe advice. 4S will very promptly melt standard silver cans (Which I believe started out as 6V motors). I've run 3S in my Juggernaut 2 with silver cans with no issues whatsoever (With a 30c discharge rate LiPo), but it usually breaks down before I get through a full pack......

I've used 3S LiPo in other cars such as a Fast Attack vehicle, and a Mad Bull. I haven't melted a motor yet, but I do keep a careful eye (well thumb) on the motor  to check the temperature and stop running once they start to get too hot (Which they do quite quickly if lots of wheelspin or hill climbing is involved.) 

The problem with overheating a motor to the point the insulation on the windings melts is that it will short the speed controller when you try to apply throttle, which might destroy the speedo as well. You could also try hunting  around for 550 size motors with internal fans, these are designed to take 12V and will not overheat so readily. I ran 2 of these in a custom clod buster running 2 14.4V motors without any overheating issues, and was significantly heavier than a standard clod due to the amount of extra aluminium I'd added.

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, JNSD1 said:

The setup I'm running had had absolutely zero problems, and I've used it a bit. Have run it so hard in sand, grass, mud, wet, dry anything. This is likely due to the high end ESC - which is expensive. It's the Traxxas EVX-2. You will see on page two of my thread I went through all of this after a lot of discussion and reading. Without a good ESC you will have issues, not with this one though.

I am using a Turnigy Nano-Tech 3300mAh 35-70c discharge Lipo from Hobby King. But you can use anything as long as they're not too long to fit in the holder. It fits perfect, no issues at all.

Enjoy the thread, it's a rollercoaster lol. 

Good thread - lots in there to help and advise!

I did a lot of reading before choosing the Buster, I was considering an Axial SMT10 or a Losi LMT - in fact, I will probably still get an SMT some time down the road, to build a Monster Jam tribute truck... Based in the UK, there hasn’t been much monster truck stuff going on, RC or IRL, we’ve had a couple of Monster Jam shows in the last couple of years, but nothing on the same level as in the US... But most of the TV coverage is appearing on Youtube now, so I’m enjoying that! But I digress...

I chose the hobby wing 880 ESC because it has a little bit of programmable functionality, it can run up to a 4s setup (Which I will never need) it’s waterproof, relatively cheap and I’ve had really good experiences with the 1060... I did think about running 2x 1060’s with a y-cable, but that would actually have been more expensive and less reliable...

While watching some youtube videos I noticed people with loads of Clodbuster experience were running castle BEC’s so I grabbed one of those too, and I see in your thread, you had some issues with glitching in your steering servo... I wanted to run 2 on axle steering servos, again, I was going to go down the y-cable route, but decided to sell a couple of my 2 channel radios and went for a Futaba 3PV, which has everything I need and more!

Good to hear that the turnigy 3s fit in the battery holder... I have a 3s that I can try if I fancy it, but I think I’m going to stick to 2s for a while... being in lockdown limits driving to my garden, and 2s is fast enough!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Carmine A said:

@paullyjay I definitely concur with this. I'll add, for the less experienced - NO Sealed Can Brushed Motor really likes 3S. And 4S is a prompt DEATH WISH!!🔥 ⚰ 

As far as Lipo Discharge Rates..... especially if you're going in the 23-35 Turn Sealed Can range...  Stick with Batteries in the 30C to 50C Discharge Rate range. 😉 

First of all, a Clod is not a Racecar, or Short Course Truck. The 60C to 120C and UP range is not only overkill - but with THAT level of Amp Draw, in a really heavy, geared too high, big FAT Tire Truck - is a recipe for OVERHEATED Motors, ESCs (even good ones, BESIDES Tekin), AND a Lipo Battery, discharging THAT fast, into something THAT heavy, produces an Amp Load that's just DANGEROUS!!! Especially for the ones that would fit in a Clodbuster!!! 

Heat Sinks on your Motors, is one of the best things you can do! Also, an ESC Fan. You won't get much air cooling inside a big Tub... There's CHEAP ESC Fans and Mounting Brackets out there.  Clip on Motor Heat Sinks are REALLY Cheap, and all over Evilbay and Amazon. 😊

Lipos have become SO common and widespread, that too many People are starting to get complacent again!! The Batteries ARE better now... But they still require just a bit of Common Sense handling, and the RIGHT Batteries for the right application. 😉 

I don't have any expensive Lipos... Couldn't afford them till just lately. But all of my Discharge Rates are between 25C and 40C. The worst load coming from my 12.4LB Axial Wraith, running a Brushless System and a 3S, 35C, 4000 MAh Lipo. I've climbed up to a 60 Degree angle, gone through soft Sand.... And at 3 years old, the two Lipos I used in it, AREN'T swollen in the least, and never get warm!! 👍👍  

 

{And, as some of you know, I'm in Arizona. I've also got the good sense NOT to take any Lipo out on a 110-120 Degree F Day!!!}😲😊

...... I'm just sharing my 40+ Years in the RC Hobby, to try to give info that will hopefully help all of you enjoy the Hobby to the fullest - but also to not get hurt, or lose a substantial investment.

Thankfully, I don’t have any high output LiPo’s at the moment, I was planning on getting a couple of 100c 2s packs after watching the Trigger Kings youtube vids, but now I’ve done the maths, I know I don’t need to go that far...

Right now 2s on silver cans means nothing is getting hot, when I start dabbling with 3s, heat sinks are a great bit of advice - thanks, I completely overlooked that... I already have a fan on the ESC heat sink, although it’s not plugged in right now...

As you can see in my photo, I’ve also added a LiPo alarm and a castle BEC, all to ensure battery safety and a good stable power supply all round!

Luckily I’ve had a good amount of experience with LiPo’s, whilst flying drones and I’ve seen first hand, what happens when a LiPo gets damaged... 💥🔥🤯!!!

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, MadInventor said:

@Carmine A post is good solid safe advice. 4S will very promptly melt standard silver cans (Which I believe started out as 6V motors). I've run 3S in my Juggernaut 2 with silver cans with no issues whatsoever (With a 30c discharge rate LiPo), but it usually breaks down before I get through a full pack......

I've used 3S LiPo in other cars such as a Fast Attack vehicle, and a Mad Bull. I haven't melted a motor yet, but I do keep a careful eye (well thumb) on the motor  to check the temperature and stop running once they start to get too hot (Which they do quite quickly if lots of wheelspin or hill climbing is involved.) 

The problem with overheating a motor to the point the insulation on the windings melts is that it will short the speed controller when you try to apply throttle, which might destroy the speedo as well. You could also try hunting  around for 550 size motors with internal fans, these are designed to take 12V and will not overheat so readily. I ran 2 of these in a custom clod buster running 2 14.4V motors without any overheating issues, and was significantly heavier than a standard clod due to the amount of extra aluminium I'd added.

 

That explains why my 3s silver can experience was a super hot, smelly burning motor - I was running on grass and gravel, lots of hill climbs, lots of wheel spin, donuts etc...

I have considered a set of traxxas titan 550’s as they do a reverse version of the 21t and they are 14.4v rated...

I’ve been messing around with Tamiyas now for a fair few years, but this is my first Clod... so first multi-motor setup, and with more choice for modern electrics and batteries and so many different setups and preferences, it’s a bit of a mine field getting it right first time! I think I’m getting there though!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...