Tamiya acrylic paint issue...

[Golden 29]

I’d be very grateful for yet more advice please!

I’ve spent many an evening perfecting my Tamiya driver figures using Tamiya Acrylic pot paints (which has transpired to be slightly pointless as one is for a hornet and the other a hotshot - so you can hardly see them once installed!) - but seem to have two problems when using these paints. 
 

They seem to go on VERY thinly - particularly an issue with white and black paint - they’re almost like a wash. I’ve mixed them for around a minute to 90 seconds before applying - and the black does seem a bit better than the white after increasing the mix time - but is still an issue.

And, when I then go over the model to tidy up the edges/margins and little mistakes, the second application seems to dissolve/wet the previous application - almost like the solvent in the paint is mixing the new application with the previous - so if I’m applying white paint over a slight mistake with a black safety belt for example, it blends the colours into a grey mess... seems more of an issue where a flat (matt) colour is involved come to think of it...  

I’ve managed to end up with neat results by applying thicker top coats and dabbing them with extremely small detail brushes - but is anyone able to some tips on how to obtain a less weak first and second coat of the paints - and in relation to the soluble/mixing issue I seem to encounter?

I’ve been using Tamiya fine primer in white as a base. Leaving for an hour betwen coats - sometimes overnight (perhaps not long enough??). 
 

As a final query - I’m going to paint a red driver’s suit (arms and torso...) in flat red, with a yellow helmet in gloss. Should I use a white base for the red, and a black base for the yellow for best results?

Many thanks!

 

[sosidge 83]

Surprised you are finding the Tamiya acrylics thin because they are usually considered to be a bit on the thick side. 

I thin them a little for brushing and they go on better.

I'm not sure priming is necessary for brush painting but no harm.

The issue with a second coat is a common one. The paints are quite "hot" and tend to melt the layer below.

So I would generally say that large areas are better done with an airbrush (again the paints need thinning). Details are better if you do the brushing in one go - again, I would try thinning them a little, it does make the coats look a lot better. If you do a second coat, give them a generous amount of time to dry (if I'm nervous about the paint getting damaged I'd leave it overnight).

I don't think I'd use a black primer for the yellow, but to be honest I've never experimented with it. White or grey primer is a nice multipurpose primer, Tamiya do a pink primer specifically for red paint but I think that is best saved for bodies that you want to look really good.

[KEV THE REV 1430]

I use Tamiya acrylics for all of my brushwork , and I brush paint all of my drivers . I have just finished a driver and I primed the overall body figure with gray etch primer , then  matt black coats , then brush coat white . I could have used white primer but would have meant masking up the body base . The secret to brush painting acrylics is to work fast and broad , not tiny brushes except for detail and edges  - get the paint on and leave good time between coats , don't keep stroking over what you've brushed on  . For skid-lids I prime in a similar colour to the lid ,and rattle can spray with gloss . For yellow I would use white as it enhances the yellow top coats . A must is to use best quality brushes !! , and clean thoroughly

My latest Optima driver figure as described above , and a Wild One Ray  :-

 

[Golden 29]

Many thanks for this. Very helpful. I’ve been using Tamiya flat white and flat black for simple driver bodies - and they really do go on thin. Almost like there’s too much solvent in the mix.

I have been considering an air brush and extractor set-up, as have a lot of vintage Hot Wheels I’d really like to restore.  

[nicherotors 12]

Suggest a white base for red although if you can find it I think the Tamiya pink primer is superb - even for small areas.  

Suggest a white base for yellow - definitely don’t use black.  I find the Tamiya fine white primer is dry enough to sand in ten minutes and ready to apply another coat at room temperature. 

I found my model making career made a huge leap forward once I had discovered water based paints.  I find water based coats are easiest for the details - easier to fix mistakes and easy to build up with thin coats without clogging the details and don’t bleed (giving you that grey).

I too have just painted and detailed a Hotshot driver that you can’t see with the body on 🤣; you can see the paints I used here in my showroom - hope it helps:

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=136304&id=18923

[Golden 29]

28 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:

I use Tamiya acrylics for all of my brushwork , and I brush paint all of my drivers . I have just finished a driver and I primed the overall body figure with gray etch primer , then  matt black coats , then brush coat white . I could have used white primer but would have meant masking up the body base . The secret to brush painting acrylics is to work fast and broad , not tiny brushes except for detail and edges  - get the paint on and leave good time between coats , don't keep stroking over what you've brushed on  . For skid-lids I prime in a similar colour to the lid ,and rattle can spray with gloss . For yellow I would use white as it enhances the yellow top coats . A must is to use best quality brushes !! , and clean thoroughly

My latest Optima driver figure as described above , and a Wild One Ray  :-

 

Wow - Fantastic work!
 

I have a Turbo Optima to build (and a Tomahawk....) and am about to paint the driver on a turbo scorpion - so, like your optima, onto lexan (have assumed you painted the top, otherwise it’d be glossy?!). Do you undercoat/base coat that first?

 

I have been using very small detail brushes - as have relatively steady hands (the booze cancels out the caffeine....) and used to paint warhammer stuff when I was a kid. Am by NO means gifted - but am PAINSTAKINGLY careful and can lose myself in these sorts of tasks - so can apply colour neatly - but haven’t really experimented with shading and highlights yet. It might be a combo of working too slowly and with too little paint due to the brush size...
 

I’ll change up from miniature brushes - and generally see how I go.

 

Thanks for all the input. This really is a great forum. Feel a bit bad I have ‘t been able to contribute much help to others yet! 

[KEV THE REV 1430]

I use an etch primer for base coat onto the lexan , then generally use matt black spray to coat the main body . I have in the past masked the driver body then primed in white ( see Ray) . I always paint drivers in matt from the top - never seen a drivers racing suit that is gloss anything , and never owned one . I use detail bruses for the edges once I get going and will work one area at a time and use cut offs like harnesses etc to stop at . If the brush gets too 'gaggy' I wash it and carry on with a clean brush - no drag . Faces are colour wash base and build up

[Golden 29]

37 minutes ago, nicherotors said:

Suggest a white base for red although if you can find it I think the Tamiya pink primer is superb - even for small areas.  

Suggest a white base for yellow - definitely don’t use black.  I find the Tamiya fine white primer is dry enough to sand in ten minutes and ready to apply another coat at room temperature. 

I found my model making career made a huge leap forward once I had discovered water based paints.  I find water based coats are easiest for the details - easier to fix mistakes and easy to build up with thin coats without clogging the details and don’t bleed (giving you that grey).

I too have just painted and detailed a Hotshot driver that you can’t see with the body on 🤣; you can see the paints I used here in my showroom - hope it helps:

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=136304&id=18923

Thanks for this too - Love the purple on the Avante and Hotshot!

[Tamiya Fan 1 28]

Try stirring the bottom thick stuff in and then shake. Especially for white, yellow, and red paints. This helps a lot to thicken it up and be more consistent.

Maybe that helps.

[Golden 29]

Many thanks. Will be both shaken AND stirred... will give it all a go. Many thanks!

[Nickaford 7]

On 1/27/2021 at 6:09 PM, KEV THE REV said:

I use Tamiya acrylics for all of my brushwork , and I brush paint all of my drivers . I have just finished a driver and I primed the overall body figure with gray etch primer , then  matt black coats , then brush coat white . I could have used white primer but would have meant masking up the body base . The secret to brush painting acrylics is to work fast and broad , not tiny brushes except for detail and edges  - get the paint on and leave good time between coats , don't keep stroking over what you've brushed on  . For skid-lids I prime in a similar colour to the lid ,and rattle can spray with gloss . For yellow I would use white as it enhances the yellow top coats . A must is to use best quality brushes !! , and clean thoroughly

My latest Optima driver figure as described above , and a Wild One Ray  :-

 

Wow! Amazing detailing! My Frog driver is lucky to have eyes - let alone eyebrows!