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Hi all,

New here, so hope this is in the right place.

 I just picked up a Tamiya QD Clodbuster on Ebay. However this wasn't the Tamiya version, it is by Scientific Toys, although the chassis seems identical. I really like the look of it, and I really like 1/16 scale, but the electronics are junk, and steering is very slow and non proportional. However it does have a slot for a 9.6v pack, which is nice. I want to change the electronics (which may be a further post as I've only just got back to cars after a 25 year break so will need some help) but want to make sure I have an option for the motor.

Looking at the motor it's 280 size, but I'm not sure it's the same as the original QD motor (or if the gearbox internal mechanisms are the same). Does anyone have a picture and spec of the QD Clod/Pumpkin/BF motor please? In particular the pinion? I don't want to spend cash on new ESC, servo etc if the motor is junk and the gearbox and motor is unique to this Scientific Toys version.

Any motor upgrade suggestions would be great too. I'm not looking to go brushless, just something that can do a little wheelie and steers ok. Something for the back garden and with nephews and nieces. It might be the stock motor is fine, but might be something I'd be happy spending a little more on for reliability.

Any other MT QD fans, be good to hear what you've done.

Thanks in advance.

Pictures: The Off Road Tiger (A RadioShack/Tandy 4x4) is quite nice too. Not very fast but very tight turns.


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You can do quite a lot to these. When I first got my QD Clod, it was in a bad way, but then it was a freebie so can't complain, plus you can always repair or make something better! Mine has evolved quite a bit from when I got it, been lucky and found spares on eBay which are hard to come by now. Originally I was running the QD Black motor which Tamiya says doesn't fit, but it does if you swap the pinion over, which can be bit of a faff, but if I can do it.....!!!

When I 1st got it

46012: Clod Buster from lupogtiboy showroom, My Son's QD Clodbuster - Tamiya RC & Radio Control Cars (tamiyaclub.com)

Lightly modded

46012: Clod Buster from lupogtiboy showroom, My Son's QD Clod, Few Updated Pics - Tamiya RC & Radio Control Cars (tamiyaclub.com)

I got rid of the standard RC board inside and fitted a mechanical speed controller from a TT-01, now upgraded to an ESC, and I also swapped the front servo for a trusty Futaba one, had to Dremmel the mounting eyelets off to fit, but went straight in after the mod. Couple that with some 'proper' radio gear instead of the toy-like Tamiya controller, and you have a great little basher! 

Mine is now fitted with a Grasshopper rear gearbox and a 540 motor, makes it a hoot! I also have a few QD buggies, one is converted to brushless, and that is pretty nippy!

46012: Clod Buster from lupogtiboy showroom, QD Clod with Grasshopper Box! - Tamiya RC & Radio Control Cars (tamiyaclub.com)

All in all, these are fun to mod and fun to bash around with.  

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thanks for the reply!

I had seen your grasshopper rear mod, I was debating it with an old Nikko F10 (identical to the GH) gearbox as an option if it all goes wrong! I've got a 540 in that too.

The steering servo was complete junk and a really overly complex mechanism, so that went. It does look like the Futaba slots right in, so that will be my choice, thanks. In terms of electronics, just need an esc that can take the 9.6 volt pack, and not fry a 280. Seems like a good number of options out there, but will stick with something simple, I just want nice, proportional control and perhaps 25km/h or so.

I'll have a look at the Tamiya QD black motor, of it another 280 should fit. I have a couple of Mabuchi 280s from an old Turbo Panther which are quite nice, I may have to invest in a pinion puller too, out of interested to you know the correct size pinion you needed? The Nikko ones was a slightly too large diameter.

I see you've got lights from the 9.6V and speed from the 7.2V - would it be faster if you attached the 9.6V to the ESC, or would that fry it or just be slower?

I'm trying to get my head around speeds and RC cars. My understanding would be that the motor acts as the resistor, and a larger voltage means a greater current, and also power (p=vi) but it doesn't seem to be quite that simple.  I can see a 7.2v would mean more run time (lower current, greater capacity) but some suggest an increase in speed, but others have said the opposite!

Thanks again

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I think something like the QD black motor is about as fast as you'll be able to go realistically if you want to stay brushed. The stock motor already runs pretty hot and the black motor more so. A lot of it depends how and where you drive it but if you want to use it off road then motor temps should be a consideration. They are already quite big vehicles for such a small motor so you'll start to reach a thermal limit sooner or later. I ended up putting a 280 size brushless in my Monster Beetle QD and it was much better. More power but still run cooler because brushless is more efficient.

I went through the same thing with my Tandy 4x4 (similar to yours but the older yellow version) I tried putting faster brushed motors in and it worked ok in the slow gear but the motors would quickly burn out if I tried to bomb around off road in the fast gear on grass etc (which is really fun) I eneded up putting a brushless in that too and had the same experience. Suddenly I had more speed than I would ever need, better battery life and the motor doesn't cook itself. It's way more power than necessary so I just turn the throttle EPA down to about 50%, helps to not strain the gears too. The QD gears on the other hand are a much stronger design and seem to be able to handle 100% power just fine. Not sure if this Scientific Toys version has the same gears or not.

To the best of my knowledge, QD stuff was manufactured Wavecon/Suncon and they sold their own versions of some of the stuff and even sold it to Radio Shack but their own branded versions and the Radio Shack versions weren't quite the same design in some ways such as not having the provision to fit bearings and the wheels not being secured with nuts.

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I think I have a GO version of the Pumpkin somewhere as well, I'm sure I got it from someone on here or a bootsale, either way, the chassis is exactly the same as the Tamiya QD one. 

I don't have a picture of the pinion, but from memory is only got around 6-8 teeth on it and is quite long with a small pin that sticks out on the end, I assume to locate the pinion on the other side of the gearbox. A quick Google came up with this:

 

 

 

ZX0c2dxl.jpg

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Thanks all,

My wheels are also not connected with nuts, so this is probably the Tandy version, or more likely an even cheaper version. 

I'm not sure how fast stock QD really is so it's hard to compare, it might be stock is fast enough for me, it's just that the electronics in the Scientific Toy version are terrible and really doing nothing for the motor. I'm not into super speed, but I might consider a brushless motor as an option as well, something I'd not really considered. My Turbo Dasher gets around ok on a 280 however : )

Thanks for the pinion picture, mine looks quite different, and only about 4 mm long, with a pin sticking out.

Ah, the Tandy Go Pumpkin would be a Power Drive - looked for those but never seen on one Ebay in the UK. 

For some reason the smaller, simpler buggies/trucks are my favourite. I love the idea of driving something that's not suppose to be great, but has a charm.
 

16118635265402008678405914849084.jpg

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Well, I measured my pinion, and it's M0.6 8T with a 2mm shaft, so I should be able to fit it on the brushless EZ run if I go that route.

I'd certainly want to turn the throttle down, I'm looking for something that's around 25km/h with the nieces and nephews. I find that when things go too fast it takes the scale away for me. It looks like the EZ run can also take 4 cells, so I might throttle it that way, I'd be using NiMh.

I'm also really enjoying the Tandy far more than I thought I would, so that might also get the conversion too!

Thanks all,

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Just to say I bit the bullet and got a transmitter, servo and the brushless esc. If for some reason it doesn't work in this car I'll convert the Tandy/Taiyo.

Thanks for the help.

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I fitted a brushless system to a quick drive monster beetle which is the same chassis, I will post a link soon.

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On 1/30/2021 at 10:57 PM, wolfdogstinkus said:

I fitted a brushless system to a quick drive monster beetle which is the same chassis, I will post a link soon.

Thanks, yes, before joining this forum I saw that conversion, it looked great. It was yours and a few others work that got me to join this forum.

 I'm planning to run 4.8 or 6 volt system from AAs or a 4  Sub C cell pack as I think I'll be dialling down the speed massively anyhow, so I may do it by limited voltage instead. For me a brushless motor is probably overkill, but it's a small motor for a large(ish) truck.

I was also thinking of getting rid of the battery holder underneath, and creating aluminium supports for the gearbox (as the holder holds the car together) to raise the car off the ground a little.



 

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Well, the electrics all arrived today, which is exciting.

I still need to change the ESC connector to a Tamiya, change the pinion (I've not been able to find a matching pinion anywhere) and then work out how it all fits together. I think I'll need to bolt the motor to gearbox.

I've got a few questions:

For those using the Hobbywing ESC on the cheaper grade cars - what Punch setting are you using? I'm trying to find out what means, as it seems different for each transmitter, and seems to range from a reduction in trigger sensitivity to what is essentially a current limiter. I'm looking for truck for driving in a back garden or playpark, and that if I had to a nephew won't kill people.

Secondly, what bolt size will I need for the motor please? I've read M2.5 or M2.6 but can't find a manual for this motor.

Lastly, does anyone have any advice on finding either the correct pinion or a pinion puller. I've seen a few small 8T pinions, but no where has the Modulus and teeth I need exactly.

much thanks in advance, this is all new to me, and I've probably bitten off more than I can chew decided to upgrade a 90s toy grade RC as my first project.

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Well, it would appear that the QD copy I've got has a few differences than the real thing, and the servo housing is a different size and dimensions. This means the servo won't quite drop in, but can be squeezed in if I keep the tabs.

Or I can trim the tabs, and then try and use some material to pack around the servo. This also means I'll have to drill a hole for the servo wires to escape, which is something I'd rather avoid but needs must.

 

 

 

 

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Well, the pinion puller pulled and the pulled pinion is now apart from the motor. Result.

It's loose on the new shaft (although both seemed to measure 2.00 but I'm not using hyper precise calipers) so I'll try locktite.

****, this is getting expensive.

 

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On 1/30/2021 at 10:57 PM, wolfdogstinkus said:

I fitted a brushless system to a quick drive monster beetle which is the same chassis, I will post a link soon.

So, I've got the pinion on and the brushless system setting ok.

It seems to run nicely, but seems to struggling going backwards then forwards quickly, and doesn't seem to sometime want to start. It's like I have to gun the throttle to remind it it's forward time, and then it can slowly go off with a light touch. Other times it slowly crawls forward.

Can I ask what setting you use on the ESC please? I must say I'm quite tempted to go back to brushed at the moment, I prefer the feel of the cars I was using before, I don't want super speed, so the idea of a less powerful motor that doesn't have so many bells and whistles is tempting.


 

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What system do you currently have in it?

On 2/3/2021 at 11:19 PM, Nikko85 said:

Well, it would appear that the QD copy I've got has a few differences than the real thing, and the servo housing is a different size and dimensions. This means the servo won't quite drop in, but can be squeezed in if I keep the tabs.

Or I can trim the tabs, and then try and use some material to pack around the servo. This also means I'll have to drill a hole for the servo wires to escape, which is something I'd rather avoid but needs must.

 

 

 

 

Pretty sure the Tamiya has the same arrangement there,I remember doing that to the monster beetle.

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I took a QD chassis and fitted a Lunchbox rear end to it and installed a modern servo - tabs cut and servo packed .1060 ESC ,  Modded the battery area to take a 7.2 stick pack

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/uploads/monthly_2020_09/P4190003.JPG.dc99315c968759d37fe416bd62725957.JPG

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So, the steering is sorted! My version does use a different housing - it's very similar to the QD, but there are differences from what I've seen of the pictures. I cut off the tabs and then used some rubber sheet and very strong double sided tape to pack around the servo and squeezed in. I drilled a hole for the wire from the servo to escape. I then made my own servo horn which works perfectly. The steering is great, the turning radius is really tiny and it's responsive. Couldn't be happier, as this was the major fault with the truck.

However the ESC and motor is really not working well.

I've gone for the EZrun 18T combo, but I think it's much too overpowered for my needs - which is driving something round a living room floor or in a little park.

I think brushless may have been the wrong route. I thought I could tame it with a lower voltage (and at 4.8v is does behave ok in terms of speed) but no matter the setting quickly going forwards and back seems to really confuse it, and it doesn't seem happy at low speeds. If I go forwards then backwards and forwards again the car will just sit there doing nothing until I release the throttle and then gun it again.

I've got a Nikko Thunder Falcon and on paper much faster (540 motor) which is far smoother in acceleration, and far happier driving very slowly and changing direction. Perhaps that's an issue with Brushless systems - or my set up?

I'm torn between

Trying to find an ESC and brushed combo that would work at the 280 size, I think from what I've read a good 280 motor would be fast enough (although temp might worry me)
Installing a grasshopper rear and then having a brushed system that would be overpowered, but that is happy going slowly (new RC isn't my forte, but I'm quite ok at mechanics, having spent the last 10 year making drum kits and things)

Ideally I want something that:

Tops out around 20 - 25 km/h -
Can easily swing from forward to reverse
Isn't so high powered I'll strip a gearbox
Doesn't have a billion settings - in fact something non programmable might be my choice.

Do any ESC spring to mind?
 

 

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Kev you posted after I had the written the reply, but hadn't press send - that does look very nice. The idea of a grasshopper rear does sound good. 

My current gearbox can't take bearings either, so that we also be a plus.

Thanks, the Quicrun 1060 might be a good option, especially if it has a forward/backward and no break setting. I'd be happy running with a very high turn count motor, just to keep the speed low. 

 

 

 

 

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I found the EZRUN to be fairly high quality and never had the problems you describe, pretty sure I used the exact system in the monster beetle..

However a 2435 can size will fit much better..

I would recommend keeping the esc and swapping the motor to a Goolrc 4000kv 2435 can size. Have you bolted in the motor?. Drill through the metal mounting plate and bolt through that into the motor?. Or is it just wedged in?

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You can get bearings in the quick drive gearbox.. possibly only 4x 1150 on the rear axle, can't remember exactly..

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3 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

I found the EZRUN to be fairly high quality and never had the problems you describe, pretty sure I used the exact system in the monster beetle..

However a 2435 can size will fit much better..

I would recommend keeping the esc and swapping the motor to a Goolrc 4000kv 2435 can size. Have you bolted in the motor?. Drill through the metal mounting plate and bolt through that into the motor?. Or is it just wedged in?

Yeah, I'm not sure if I've just set it up badly electronically - I might do a full reset.

Yep, I drilled through the gearbox to mount with bolts, although my gearbox doesn't have a metal mounting plate - as I think the gearbox isn't quite the same as the QD version - hence why I also don't think bearings would work.

 

 

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So I pulled out the ESC and motor, and was able to take off the pinion - which is a relief. Phew. That locktite 638 is serious, but the pinion puller is great.

Playing with the motor outside the gearbox (not letting it over heat) I am still struggling to get a smooth backwards into forwards action. When in reverse (or at a standstill, but having been in reverse) you really need to gun the throttle to make it go forwards. A gentle pull makes the ESC flash, but nothing happens. This means that something like a three point turn is really tricky, and it's not good for driving in tight spaces. I hope it's not because I fried the controller, when I first put in the ESC into the receiver it wasn't clear which way round it went and I put it in the wrong way round - seems an easy mistake however. There were literally zero markings.

I've got a couple of spare motors - I think my plan, and let me know if this makes sense, is:

Do what I should have done in the first place, start simple, and buy a regular ESC, I will look into the 1060.

See how this goes with the 280 motors I have already - and see if the speed is ok, and it moves well.

If the gearbox or motor fails, or just is really slow and bad, I'll explore the grasshopper/Might Max gearbox, as that wouldn't be too tricky to do - I'll get a ESC that works with the 280 and the 550, so I just can keep the electronics - perhaps the 1060 mentioned earlier - I quite like something plug and play.


 

 

 

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So, this seems to be my exact fault. Perfect going into forward when it works. Perfect going into reverse. But going from reverse to forward often does nothing,  just both LEDs flashing and zero movement. 

So, it seems like I may have just got unlucky - I've order a new TX and ESC - so hopefully will have some lucky with a combination that doesn't glitch. 
 

 

 

 

 

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Well, call me an idiot, because I just picked up a QD Pumpkin (my favourite version) for £25. Condition is a little beat up, but that's half the fun. Seems there is corrosion in the battery tray, but I'll be soldering in a Tamiya lead to the battery input of the PCB (assuming it's not a split voltage input, I hope not). 

It'll be interesting to compare my fake QD with the real one. I'm not sure yet if I'll try and convert both, or have one almost stock QD and a converted second, it really depends on what the performance differences is like between them, and also if the gearboxes will swap.

I've got a few questions

  • I've heard that real Pumpkin/LB tires fit on these, can anyone confirm this?
  • Can you replace the front bumper?
  • Are there any sources for the rear chrome bar, or assuming there isn't a source what's the best chrome paint? I was thinking making my own would not be that hard really.
  • The seller says the springs need replacing, what are the best options for this? Can I remove the springs from the shocks (either to clean or replace) or are they stuck in? In version copy I can't pull them apart, which makes cleaning really hard, but I find that foil and water can work wonders.

    Thanks in advance, I've become a member, but still can't get access to TCPhotos, but when I can I'll put up more pictures.

     

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