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100mega

G6-01 King Yellow build advice

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Hi all,

This evening I'll be starting on my King Yellow and I had a few general questions I wanted to put out there to see what people's opinions are.

1. In the artwork on the box it looks like there are thin black lines outlining the hood of the car, but there does not appear to be decals included to replicate it. I have a feeling this is one of those things that will give the model a better look so I was wondering how other people have handled these lines on their own kits. The lines are indented from the outside of the shell so I don't know if painting from the inside would work and I'm not sure I could pull that off cleanly.

2. What is the best grease to put in the diffs on this model? The instruction indicate to use the Tamiya grease, but I've seen people recommend the AW Grease for off road cars. Do the big, puffy tires play into this? ie; they aren't glued and don't have inserts so the thicker grease might pop them off easier.

3. Anyone recommend a good tutorial or video for gluing tires on a model like this? There's a lot out there for super fast high performance stuff, but I'm not sure if this is something I need to worry about with this kit. I also have a second pair of tires that are pretty different compared to what comes with it, the kart style slicks from R31House. I'm probably going to glue them...I'm just afraid to mark them up by getting excess glue everywhere. I'd appreciate any advice!

bus2.PNG.791f7617cd731b6299dbfeda2050140e.PNGr31house-r31b023-1-800x800_0.thumb.jpg.66fca73288482f72b14ee4b346b31934.jpg

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1]  I prefer to draw them from outside with a sharpie.  If you mess it up, no worries. Just erase it with alcohol and start again. 

2]  I used diff clay.  It's more like chewing gum.  But it's not necessary, AW would do okay. 

3]  Unless you are using a really fast motor or something, you don't have to glue them.  I worry about wobbles, so if I were to use, I'd use caulk or equally slow-curing adhesive, so you can adjust how it seats. 

 

 

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For #2, I used tamiya diff putty in the diffs. I used two balls in the front diff, one in the middle, and none in the rear. You can see the diff putty instructions in the dynahead instruction manual. Admittedly, this is the recommendation for a model that is meant to be a "trail truck" 6x6, but I'm very happy with the performance this delivers even in the Big Yellow.

1136223558_ScreenShot2021-01-28at4_00_02PM.thumb.png.ed0897264fdb8b559eed790e66de6e6e.png

 

For #3, I didn't use any glue at all. This is a nice "slipper" to protect the drivetrain and I have no problems at all with tires popping off. The truck is pretty light, and I don't gear it for insane speeds. I did intend this for a kid in the family, so I made it more forgiving than performance-oriented. If you wanted an easy solution short of the normal tire cement, you might try Shoe Goo or equivalent, in say 3-4 place around the tire rim on the front and rear side. Tacking the tire in place like that makes it very easy to remove, and yet still gives you quite a bit more 'lock' in terms of minimizing slip between the tire and the wheel.

 

It's a good rig - have fun!

 

 

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As Juggular said above, I would try fine point sharpie also. ( I left mine off however) I may try sharpie technique myself.

I used a AW grease that was in the kit, but that wasn't enough to " pack" all 3 diffs. Since I switched to 4W steer it almost turns too well so I may look at using putty or diff clay to get a limited slip effect ( and give those 6 tires more traction..

I Personally glue all my tires. I just seat the rim on the bead, peel back a small part at a time, drop a thin dab of CA glue, let that spot dry, and move my way around the bead. 
 

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7 hours ago, 100mega said:

Thanks for the tips so far! This is where I stopped tonight. 858AB011-940B-4982-90AD-7BFA841CC751.thumb.jpeg.73d83b182fbd36fc77d17e408846236d.jpeg

Oooh is that the clear chassis I see ? 
awesome. 

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The stock tires fit really tightly on the rims, so you shouldn't need to glue them. Can't speak for the aftermarket ones, but if they're softer/thinner beads, then a little glue is not a bad idea. Gel-type CA for an absolutely permanent attachment, or clear silicone RTV sealant if you want to be able to remove them. Either way, a little goes a long way...

I built mine with all 3 diffs open and with just a dab of the kit grease, so all 3 spin freely. I did that because I only used 2 wheel steering, and I didn't want it to understeer too much. I've only run it twice, but for general bashing around, it runs very nicely with the open diffs. Traction is almost never a problem (as you can imagine).

As for the body detailing, a fine-line Sharpie pen works well for panel lines. When it comes time to do the decals, save yourself some frustration and ignore the decals for the bumpers and the front fender arches. If you want them black, just paint them black on the outside of the shell.

Oh, and one other suggestion: unless you plan on crashing into a lot of things, use the small front bumper instead of the large one. All the large one does is get stuck on obstacles.

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2 hours ago, Dakratfink said:

Oooh is that the clear chassis I see ? 
awesome. 

Indeed! I allowed myself to go wild on hop ups this time because this is my first kit that I'm attempting to make my own rather than sticking to box art completely.

11 minutes ago, markbt73 said:

The stock tires fit really tightly on the rims, so you shouldn't need to glue them. Can't speak for the aftermarket ones, but if they're softer/thinner beads, then a little glue is not a bad idea. Gel-type CA for an absolutely permanent attachment, or clear silicone RTV sealant if you want to be able to remove them. Either way, a little goes a long way...

I built mine with all 3 diffs open and with just a dab of the kit grease, so all 3 spin freely. I did that because I only used 2 wheel steering, and I didn't want it to understeer too much. I've only run it twice, but for general bashing around, it runs very nicely with the open diffs. Traction is almost never a problem (as you can imagine).

As for the body detailing, a fine-line Sharpie pen works well for panel lines. When it comes time to do the decals, save yourself some frustration and ignore the decals for the bumpers and the front fender arches. If you want them black, just paint them black on the outside of the shell.

Oh, and one other suggestion: unless you plan on crashing into a lot of things, use the small front bumper instead of the large one. All the large one does is get stuck on obstacles.

Yeah, I plan to only use 2 wheel steering too. Every video I've seen of the 4 wheel setup features the car immediately rolling over multiple times which isn't what I'm going for. I've already closed the chassis up, but ended up going with AW grease in the front two diffs and the standard grease in the back diff. Hopefully that works fine enough.

I have the unpainted body version so I'm planning to mask off the bumpers and front fenders, spray some lame flake, 3 coats of camel yellow, white, and then black to darken the interior and get the bumpers / fenders. Hopefully that goes alright with the PS paint I have. I've absolutely got to track down a fine point sharpie pen as that sounds perfect for the lines.

I'll definitely consider the smaller bumper as well. I'm not planning too much abuse for this thing so it should work. Thank you!

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A tip for the bumpers and fenders to save all that masking is to use the overspray film and paint them on the outside. If you use a sharp scalpel and score through the film and remove the bits you want black. Then still using PS paint spray 2/3 light coats. If you want a matt finish final coat wit PS matt clear. Its surprinsingly tough.

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I couldn't resist skipping a few steps and trying on the wheels :)

 

2021-01-29.thumb.jpg.d3829240389a059acb73e0a2217b7bbd.jpg

 

Also just for fun:

 

IMG_6187.thumb.jpeg.0a8585622a5799476376c2b9d3b0aa06.jpeg

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First run today was cut short by what looks to be my pinion gear coming loose. I promptly stripped the motor mount screw trying to get into the chassis. That’s enough for today. :(

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3 minutes ago, isomer1 said:

Did the pinion fall in to the chassis?

It doesn’t look like it. It’s just not catching on the two gears that it touches so I assume it’s loose. Wish I could know for sure but I won’t until I can figure out how to get this stripped screw out.

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On 1/29/2021 at 9:30 PM, 100mega said:

I couldn't resist skipping a few steps and trying on the wheels :)

 

2021-01-29.thumb.jpg.d3829240389a059acb73e0a2217b7bbd.jpg

 

Also just for fun:

 

IMG_6187.thumb.jpeg.0a8585622a5799476376c2b9d3b0aa06.jpeg

Its amazing what fits this chassis. Its actually not that long.

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On 2/4/2021 at 9:28 AM, Busdriver said:

Its amazing what fits this chassis. Its actually not that long.

I did a bit of a trick with the angle. There's actually a few inches that stick out beyond the Hornet's wing.

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Turns out the pinion gear just came loose probably due to me not having it in the right position when tightening it. The screw stripping has also taught me to be careful not to over-tighten things. Lesson learned!

I finally got to take the thing for a drive again and due to us getting a lot of snow up in Oregon lately I swapped back to the original tires for the grip needed in the snow. Wow, it really doesn't take much to ding up these chrome plated rims. Once that melted away I finally got to try out my slicks and had a blast driving it all in front of the house and on the street. Naturally I'm wondering what the next step up would be for a faster motor (but still brushed), but I am very happy with this kit overall. It just looks cool and is fun to drive. It's also screaming for a lighting kit though to be frank I wouldn't know where to even start with 14 potential locations for lights! I may just keep it as is and perhaps slap some random stickers on the body to make it my own.

 

IMG_6278.thumb.jpeg.4f8b6a070553039de2b11611e50c4be4.jpeg

 

IMG_6277.thumb.jpeg.0fa9d897c58fbab18a6da431f37f4bc4.jpeg

 

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Looks great, and love that clear chassis!

Might have to order one for my build :lol:

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