Jump to content
Paynec81

2013 Egress

Recommended Posts

I started build mid afternoon yesterday and finished by evening. The rear diff went in kind of snug. It moves but wasn’t very free. Front was ok. Plastic on gear box might be slightly warped. 

Rear suspension arms attachment is quite a unique set up lol. How they came up with that over an A arm is interesting. Sturdy car though, rock solid.

Next up body paint. I’m thinking under tray carbon look. Body wine red.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The rear trailing arms are more based on real life cars and better clearance and movement...but can be adjusted too

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Finished" my bluild yesterday. Went a lot fast than expected. Problem with one shock though. It keeps automatically extending without rh esprijg attached. Is this a case of to much oil or is there air trappen inside? Tried redoing it 5x but nog luck.

On the the cutting and painting. Can't cut though lol...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most taimya shocks I have built with the green or red rubber bladder in the top will tend to slowly extend themselves after you have compressed them without the spring fitted. Sort of just assumed this was how they are supposed to work. I think if they dont have any air in them they will have a bit of a vacuum effect that tries to equalise itself inside.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sooooo, just paid overs to get a '21 release Egress from RCMart. Tax refunds FTW. But it's worth it as the Egress is easily Tamiya's most beautiful buggy, in my opinion and I really want to build one. Now I can and also have a NIB. Thinking of running a 02H with a HW1060.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Superluminal said:

Most taimya shocks I have built with the green or red rubber bladder in the top will tend to slowly extend themselves after you have compressed them without the spring fitted. Sort of just assumed this was how they are supposed to work. I think if they dont have any air in them they will have a bit of a vacuum effect that tries to equalise itself inside.

AFAIK the shocks are not supposed to extend by themselves as it has a spring effect different on all corners....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After screwing in cap, shocks may extend due to air being trapped between the bladder snd cap. This is called rebound. You can build your shocks with rebound or you can try to minimise it. I minimise it. On these shocks this is done by loosening cap, pushing in piston 90%, and then tightening the cap. Oil will seep from cap down the body, because the thread has an escape channel. You may need to do this a couple of times to achieve minimum rebound. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So where is everyone buying these at the sub-Tamiya USA prices?   All I see are eBay $800 and up with shipping.  :blink:  

Should I be expecting places like Tower to have these in stock soon?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to know a guy who has a van parked in the alley in a seedy neighbourhood 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Raman36 said:

You need to know a guy who has a van parked in the alley in a seedy neighbourhood 

Last time I talked to the guy he only sold free candy..?  

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

So where is everyone buying these at the sub-Tamiya USA prices?   All I see are eBay $800 and up with shipping.  :blink:  

Should I be expecting places like Tower to have these in stock soon?

It's called MAP (minimum advertised price)........hobby stores in the US typically sell for MAP.  Which in the case of the Egress would be around $575 or so and, depending on your relationship with your local shop, can be even lower.  My local shop I can just walk in and as long as it's on Tamiya USA's site in stock, they can order it and it shows up in a week or so/whenever they put in their next bulk Tamiya order.

Tower typically does not do restocks of the higher $$ re-re's these past few years it seems most of the time.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Last time I talked to the guy he only sold free candy..?  

Where are you located? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Gaoh X said:

It's called MAP (minimum advertised price)........hobby stores in the US typically sell for MAP.  Which in the case of the Egress would be around $575 or so and, depending on your relationship with your local shop, can be even lower.  My local shop I can just walk in and as long as it's on Tamiya USA's site in stock, they can order it and it shows up in a week or so/whenever they put in their next bulk Tamiya order.

Tower typically does not do restocks of the higher $$ re-re's these past few years it seems most of the time.

I have no relationship with a local hobby store.  I’ve not been to a brick and mortar nor van in over a decade..  so I guess I am out of luck.  Best I just get the vintage one in this case since I’m paying more than the rere you talented and important folks are paying.  

Thanks for making me feel like a terd, LHS!!  :lol:

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Was that you?  :lol: ;)

Lmao.. if you’re in states, pm me and I’ll send you info of a shop that can give you a good break on the kit 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Raman36 said:

Lmao.. if you’re in states, pm me and I’ll send you info of a shop that can give you a good break on the kit 

A while back I turned off PM (some members were bombarding me with huge PM's) and now I cannot seem to find how to turn it back on..!  :huh:  I am in the US.  

Update:  Thanks for the pm @Raman36!!

Edited by Willy iine
Thanks!
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I'm studying the instructions manual I downloaded and it shows that the rere kit comes with a 22T pinion.   Is this a Mod06 pinion?

This is for a stock 27Turn brushed motor, I presume, looking at the illustration.  If I was to run a SportsTuned motor, would that be considered too ghetto?   What motors do you folks recommend? 

I love the look of the car, dual deck CF is awesome... besides this I know nothing about the Egress as I'm not much of a buggy guy.  I want to install proper electronics that Egress folks feel are appropriate for the chassis. 

TIA!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes it’s the mod 0.6 motor. I’m starting mine out with an old Novak 17.5 brushless. May later move to 13.5 brushless.

Most are using the brushed shower stock BZ or RZ. 

it all depends what you want to do. Even silver can will work fine. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Willy iine said:

So I'm studying the instructions manual I downloaded and it shows that the rere kit comes with a 22T pinion.   Is this a Mod06 pinion?

This is for a stock 27Turn brushed motor, I presume, looking at the illustration.  If I was to run a SportsTuned motor, would that be considered too ghetto?   What motors do you folks recommend? 

I love the look of the car, dual deck CF is awesome... besides this I know nothing about the Egress as I'm not much of a buggy guy.  I want to install proper electronics that Egress folks feel are appropriate for the chassis. 

TIA!

If you are just starting out with the egress i would use a superstock bz or rz as raman said and a hobbywing 1060 esc. You wont have to worry about anything  just plug and go basically. I ran a superstock bz in my avante black before going brushless and it is decent on 2s which is the same as the egress gearing wise. Eventually you will want to go faster i am sure, a 13.5/10.5 brushless is perfect for the egress. I run a reedy 10.5 s plus in my egress. It isnt super fast and uncontrollable. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, @Raman36  I don't foresee any real track driving with mine, so I think I'll install a Sport Tuned black can and display a BZ next to the Egress on the shelf.  

I have a bunch of old brushed motors.. remember these?

IMG_Sep132021at43910PM.jpg.b6030d8d6e352a2ccb2cadbe3eb793c2.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Rb4276 said:

If you are just starting out with the egress i would use a superstock bz or rz as raman said and a hobbywing 1060 esc. You wont have to worry about anything  just plug and go basically. I ran a superstock bz in my avante black before going brushless and it is decent on 2s which is the same as the egress gearing wise. Eventually you will want to go faster i am sure, a 13.5/10.5 brushless is perfect for the egress. I run a reedy 10.5 s plus in my egress. It isnt super fast and uncontrollable. 

Thanks!   So are you using a smaller pinion than 22T while running those 13.5/10.5 brushless mod motors?   18T or something?  

I will just run the 22T pinion for SportTuned and possibly BZ.

Update: Searched, but no US vendor has these BZ motors in stock.  I also found minor scratches on my black can so decided to order a new silver Sport Tuned for now, Savox 1251MG, 1060, and my usual SR215 receiver.  Once things tame down logistically from Japan, I'll order the BZ motor for display.  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The internal ratio on the Egress is very high. Haven’t actually calculated it or. I doubt changing from 22t to 20t would matter even with a 13.5. On my Optima which has a lower fdr, I’m running a 10.5 with the optional smaller spur gear. No issues there. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Raman36 said:

The internal ratio on the Egress is very high. Haven’t actually calculated it or. I doubt changing from 22t to 20t would matter even with a 13.5. On my Optima which has a lower fdr, I’m running a 10.5 with the optional smaller spur gear. No issues there. 

Sounds good!   Thanks again.   So I may have found a seller for the BZ motor that was advertising under TZ.. will know what I get in a few days.  I suppose the TZ would work fine too.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just on the topic of shocks and their behaviour, my understanding is it's the pressure increase due to the displacement of damper oil by the piston rod as it enters the shock body that causes it to extend "by itself".

When you build a sealed shock per Tamiya's instructions, you fill the body then fit the bladder and cap so a little oil overflows, which ensures there is no air pocket in the oil. This is done with the piston fully withdrawn. So, when you then compress the shock, the piston rod starts taking up space that was previously occupied only by oil. Since there is now less space for the same amount of oil to occupy, something must give way. Since shock oil is highly incompressible, the bladder and the air inside it is slightly compressed. It's this pressure that pushes the piston back out until the pressure equalises. If we were able to use a low pressure gas like nitrogen instead of air inside the bladder, then this effect would be reduced.

Anyhow, a bit of positive pressure in a sealed shock is desirable, as it helps prevent air incursion into the oil.

If you were to build a shock with the piston rod fully inserted, you would get the opposite effect when you withdrew it, which is negative pressure inside the shock which actually encourages air to enter, which is undesirable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Sounds good!   Thanks again.   So I may have found a seller for the BZ motor that was advertising under TZ.. will know what I get in a few days.  I suppose the TZ would work fine too.  

I run a TZ in mine. It’s the same as the BZ but without the dust cover. I use a 19T pinion and the motor keeps nice and cool

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...