Jump to content
B.RAD

My first Tamiya build - Mad Bull

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

I found the best solution for shock mounting on this and several other similar chassis is to use Tamiya's 50591 5mm ball collars, which clip into the top and bottom eyelets of the shocks, and allow you to pass a 3mm self-tapping or machine screw through the middle. This gives you the slop-free connection of a ball joint along with the security of being able to use a suitably long screw of the right thread type for the material. They also allow you to remove and refit the shocks as many times as you like without stretching the eyelets.

s-l640.jpg

Our Friend Keith, is as most often is.... 100% CORRECT!! 👍👍💯

The Ball Joints I described are the quick and easy - also excellent solution. They come in most every Kit, easy as Spares, and most intermediate Builders will have a surplus of them SOMEWHERE.....

HOWEVER, the #50591 Ball Collars ARE a superior solution!!! 💰💯👍👍  As stated, they won't stretch Shock Eyelets from even infinite refittings. Better still, you can now fit the Shocks with ANY 3mm Screw!!! 

You can also (I do), either drill the Shock Screw holes Deeper - or like your upper Shock Mounts, Drill clean through. 

What that allows is - the ability to use 3x15mm LOWER Shock Screws, and 3x18 or 3x20mm UPPER Shock Screws.... but with 3mm Washers and Nylock Nuts on the inside of the Towers, for more added strength! 😉 

That's how I fitted the Rear Shocks on my Lunchbox, Grasshopper, Grasshopper II, Hornet, Rising Fighter... And several others, but all those are essentially similar. NEVER had a Screw rip out!! 

And we ABUSED most of those, with ridiculous high jumps at insane speeds!!!! 😲😳😖

Broke a LOT of FRONT Shock Towers, but rarely sustained any damage at the Rear Fittings.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

...... A fully compressed shock has no more damping to give, so passes any further forces straight to the shock mounts, potentially breaking them. Far better to have the chassis bottom out or the suspension hit its stops while the shocks still have some travel left.

INDEED!! Anytime you can get the Chassis to bottom out before the Shocks is ideal. 😊💯 

ALSO as Keith mentioned, bottoming out a Shock - ESPECIALLY when landing Jumps - WILL damage all but the strongest HD Shocks! 😲😖

5 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

I usually order such things from Tony's Tamiya Parts on eBay. With free postage, it doesn't matter if I order everything at once, or individual bits as I need them - there is no extra shipping to pay if I place multiple orders. Here is a link to the ball collars:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/383658769500

YUP!! Picking on @TurnipJF AGAIN!! 😜😂😅

I'm not even sure of His Body of Experience in RC.... But his information is Sound, and His Knowledge is VAST!!!  (HMMMMMMMM...... Maybe Someday someone will start a Thread - asking for everyone's FULL Body of Experience!!😳)  Mine goes back to mid 1983, but I'd be SHOCKED if I could remember anything before 1990!! 😜

~ So anyway, Thanks Keith! 😊 I'll be ordering a few sets from Tony's as well.  It only takes less than HALF as long for a Package to get to Arizona from Midlands, England - as the SAME PACKAGE from Shenzhen, China!!! 😠😠😖

5 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

.......you might find that it makes a better running companion if fitted with standard size buggy wheels and tyres. Here is mine, set up as a running companion for my wife's Rising Fighter:

2019-09-26_03-00-11

Something else you might want to consider is the heatshrink mod to the steering push rod. It serves much the same purpose as replacing the thing with a set of ball links and threaded rod, however it is a lot easier, and fully reversible. One applies the heatshrink like so:

2021-02-08_11-17-01

Installed it looks like this:

2021-02-08_11-17-33

The heatshrink stops the pushrod from moving up and down in the holes, which reduces slop significantly, and also stops the front of it from getting caught on the chassis if the steering is over extended a collision.

SO.... My Wheels from my DT-02 'Oliday Buggy fit the Mad Bull??? Doesn't the Front Spindles need a bunch of Shimming for the narrower Buggy Wheels? 

.... And that Heat Shrink Tube Mod on the Steering Arms!!?? SAHWEET!! I've just not seen that one done in the U.S.

Might be because Here - RC Aircraft Rod Ends and All-Thread are RIDICULOUSLY Cheap and Plentiful.... 

....... @B.RAD Having Fun? 😊  You're already well ahead of most People today - BECAUSE you're TINKERING!!!!  Too many People in this Day and Age are satisfied with merely a bog standard RTR in a Box. They're missing out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

 

The wheels are Tamiya Star Dish items, 53086 on the rear, 0445167 on the front. To fit the narrower front wheels, you will need the shorter front axles, part number 0555059.

Excuse my ignorance here - still learning as you can probably tell - would any buggy wheel bolt straight on (with the necessary axle change up front)?  I love the look of the spiked type rear tyres and am excited by the prospect of choosing a wheel and tyre combo for a buggy conversion, but want to be sure that all wheels will fit before I get carried away! 😊

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Carmine A said:

...... @B.RAD Having Fun? 😊  You're already well ahead of most People today - BECAUSE you're TINKERING!!!!  Too many People in this Day and Age are satisfied with merely a bog standard RTR in a Box. They're missing out.

Oh gosh, more fun than I can cope with!! My brain is constantly mulling over the build stages as I go. I am thoroughly enjoying it, I haven't had to use the mechanical side of my noggin for a long while and it's a thrill to fire it up again 😁

I'm absolutely loving the engagement, encouragement, support and advice here too, it's really keeping me motivated and making the process even more enjoyable. Thanks everyone! Keep it coming!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small update from another very short (too short!) tinkering session. 

Removed the shocks and took them apart to remove the spacer. They are now exactly the right length, so this was well worth doing. Probably another 3mm or so of travel there, but that will make all the difference (should have done a before photo! Doh!)

790947592_PXL_20210209_152731484_copy_544x7252.jpg.c2a236a10f621f588532c975373889cc.jpg

I stuck with the soft springs from the CVA kit - I took one of the red shocks apart just to see, and as far as I could tell from my highly calibrated left hand/right hand squidgy test, they were about the same. Certainly the same length. So I thought I'd leave the red shocks intact and 'as is' because someday I might want to stick them on and see how truly wonderful the pogo-spec thrill ride is!

Couple of deliveries today - the steel pinion upgrade, which has now been installed...

71316450_PXL_20210209_152208680_copy_604x8052.jpg.5d0cd92cba7e91cc0c3cc5fc167e1998.jpg

...and a bag of heat shrink. Took the front bumper off (why is it that lately I feel like I've been taking the Bull apart a lot more than I have been building it??? 😆) and got cracking with this very nifty little mod. The before:

PXL_20210209_161440501_copy_604x805.thumb.jpg.a179e6a29d9ca3114cff41647371c652.jpg

And after:

PXL_20210209_162342207_copy_725x544.jpg.5fa1de3e9ce3692fcb61a707d032e50b.jpg

It makes a phenomenal difference! So much sturdier and more solid. Such a great tip, thanks so much @Silver-Can, this was a brilliant tip.

I forgot just how much fun heat shrink is to use!!! 😍 I'm going to be wandering around the house looking for things to wrap up now! 🤣

You can see from the photos that the trailing mess of wires suggests the servo is now in, which it is. I also hooked up the motor, installed the ESC with the supplied sticky back tape, and then got carried away (there's a theme forming with that, must stop being so darn enthusiastic!!) and stuck the receiver in place. Like so...

PXL_20210209_192557167_copy_725x544.jpg.9e9999cab7a5e08643e600b4b6152281.jpg

Only to find I'd made a massive rookie error, as on finally opening the transmitter manual to see how these new-fangled non-crystal  thingamabobs work, I realised that I'd stuck the receiver down with the SW binding switch right at the bottom, completely unaccessible. 🤦

Some careful prising apart of the tape later, and we now rest like this:

PXL_20210209_192643924_copy_725x544.jpg.3c74724377ac1295d48578ab988bd16c.jpg

Waiting for the battery to charge to I can test the electrics as per the manuals instructions. That'll be a long wait! Next delivery includes the shock mounts as recommended by @TurnipJF (along with the shorter steering arms which I've ordered, with some second hand black dt02 wheels 😁) so that I can put the rear shocks on, then it's wheels on, and then it's, well, it's go time I guess!!

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, B.RAD said:

Excuse my ignorance here - still learning as you can probably tell - would any buggy wheel bolt straight on (with the necessary axle change up front)?  I love the look of the spiked type rear tyres and am excited by the prospect of choosing a wheel and tyre combo for a buggy conversion, but want to be sure that all wheels will fit before I get carried away! 😊

The rear wheels use a 12mm hex fitting which is widely supported by many manufacturers, so you have a huge choice there. The majority of 2WD buggies use the bearing-in-wheel arrangement up front, but 4WD buggies and some race oriented 2WD buggies use hexes up front too, so your choices are still pretty wide but not as wide as at the rear. You can get hex adapters for the front though, so if your dream wheels are only available in hex format, they can be made to work. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/9/2021 at 4:02 AM, Carmine A said:

The Ball Joints I described are the quick and easy - also excellent solution. They come in most every Kit, easy as Spares, and most intermediate Builders will have a surplus of them SOMEWHERE.....

They are indeed. I use them (or their steel or alloy equivalents) on the majority of my models. It is only the ones where I either need a longer screw than usual, a self-tapping thread or I plan on fitting and removing the shocks on a regular basis that I go for the ball collars, or sometimes ball nuts as they can also be removed without unclipping the eyelets. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update time! And this one is a winner! 🤙 I can't quite believe how fast this has come around...

I got the battery charged up and did a quick electrics check to make sure everything worked ok and there were no nasty noises. Spoiler alert - it was all fine! 😁 Motor was smooth and sounded sweet, servo worked well. Also took this opportunity to adjust the steering throw as it was pushing the steering arms beyond the limit. All sorted.

PXL_20210210_112242089_copy_544x725.jpg.00b9a6aaa70fa6a68b91cd6e7b339d51.jpg

Postie was kind enough to deliver the ball collars today (amazing service from Tony's Tamiya Parts, I'm buying everything I can from there now!!) so with a hectic day at work and dad duties taking up all breathing space, I had to wait patiently until boy was in bed and work was done. Cracked open a beer, stuck some Rage on the headphones and with my head duly bobbing, set to work.

PXL_20210210_190012922_copy_544x725.jpg.c0deb3c377eefd5db011a1608ceacb7e.jpg

Beer is an essential building liquid, right?!

PXL_20210210_190810997_copy_756x1008.thumb.jpg.e136c568845439abb75580ab5666189c.jpg

PXL_20210210_190822125_copy_756x1008.thumb.jpg.c8f8a9bdf3cbc21f1df566b56019b80e.jpg

These collars are amazing. Absolutely the perfect thing, thank you so much for the recommendation @TurnipJF! Superstar. Shocks are installed immaculately now, and that extra travel returned to the shocks has given the rear end enough movement to satisfy my untrained eye. 

PXL_20210210_192635862_copy_1008x756.thumb.jpg.11d4f2f19ca2db17535fff65a21d7877.jpg

Wheels on! A big moment. Tidied up the wiring as best as I can. Did the obligatory carpet test (1m of clear space in my office!) and she works like a charm. Forward, brake, reverse and steering is spot on. The wobble from that servo arm is ridiculous though! Have ordered some appropriately sized heat shrink to do the mod as recommended earlier in the thread to take this out as much as possible. 

PXL_20210210_191454565_copy_1008x756.thumb.jpg.3e6842fdb38a5d568c7dd71ee4909257.jpg

Couldn't resist a test fit! I really, really like the body on white. I've ordered a second one, as I think I'm going to copy @TurnipJF and apply decals to the white, and then do a custom paint job on the other. Exciting!! Can't wait for that. Hopefully make a start over the next couple of days 😊

Thanks so much for the support and guidance so far, I can't tell you how much it has helped! Super excited to get the body done and take her for a rip!

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Silver-Can said:

Excellent job mate - only thing left to do now is get it dirty 👍😃

Absolutely!! Can't wait for that. Will mow out a track in the garden once the weather is dry enough. I had a good one going last summer, as per the photo below, so will try and improve on that!

20200422_185239_copy_1008x756.thumb.jpg.4524d7a7c39ddbe651bf1d159b9736ae.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice track! The madbull will love  bounding around that! What were you running on there previously?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Silver-Can said:

Nice track! The madbull will love  bounding around that! What were you running on there previously?

Thank you! I bought an FTX Surge MT as a tester to see if the old RC passion still lurked. It did, obviously! 😁 

I found the surge to be pretty poor overall, the 4wd broke almost instantly (which I've now repaired) and it understeers dreadfully. Will be interesting to compare to the Mad Bull!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fortunately, the great Minds on this Forum have given you a kickstart that NONE of us had back in the 80's and 90's!! 😊  You've ALREADY got a Chassis, much better than what Tamiya designed. You're really going to enjoy this MAD Buggy!! 

WARNING: even though you've had a few before.... This first nicely modified Tamiya Build is definitely the "gateway drug" to many more!! 😜😂😅

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

Fortunately, the great Minds on this Forum have given you a kickstart that NONE of us had back in the 80's and 90's!! 😊  You've ALREADY got a Chassis, much better than what Tamiya designed. You're really going to enjoy this MAD Buggy!! 

WARNING: even though you've had a few before.... This first nicely modified Tamiya Build is definitely the "gateway drug" to many more!! 😜😂😅

You're absolutely right - I definitely got a kick start here! And I really, really appreciate it. I think I would have just got frustrated at the build quality and potential flaws I could see, but wouldn't know how to fix them. But the guidance, advice and encouragement through this thread and forum has been first class and kept me going, and made the build and mods very satisfying!

And as for "gateway drug", you are so right!!! I'm already looking for the next one. I could do with some guidance there actually - I'm thinking about the following:

Blitzer Beetle, Dark Impact, Hot Shot or Super Hot Shot, Blackfoot, or possibly a Kyosho Tomahawk. 

Ideally I'd like something a little less flawed in its design (hope that's not too harsh, I don't mean it as a criticism). I'd like a buggy but LOVE monster truck style cars, and the Kyosho with its alloy components looks very intriguing. Is the Blitzer chassis any good? Any thoughts or guidance on the list, or any others to consider? I'd love an Avante but haven't put it on the list due to the price. I'm not budget restricted, but that's a bit of a stretch for me at the early stages of the hobby and with what I'll do with the cars.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, B.RAD said:

You're absolutely right - I definitely got a kick start here! And I really, really appreciate it. I think I would have just got frustrated at the build quality and potential flaws I could see, but wouldn't know how to fix them. But the guidance, advice and encouragement through this thread and forum has been first class and kept me going, and made the build and mods very satisfying!

Glad we have been of help! It is always nice to welcome a new or returning participant to the hobby.

The Mad Bull may appear to have a lot of flaws, but I prefer to look at them as design choices that may not be consistent with one's intended use of the vehicle. Take the slop in the front arms for example. Not ideal for an adult modeller who is willing to clean and service the vehicle every now and then, but this same slop allows it to go for run after run in dirty conditions without binding or seizing up - the sort of usage pattern one might expect from a kid. Same with the sloppy steering - the amount of play in the stock setup means that an inexperienced and/or enthusiastic young driver is highly unlikely to damage the servo no matter how hard or how regularly they crash. Even the inexpensive and simple pogo stick shocks help put the car in reach of a pocket money budget and youthful assembly skills. However, as you have seen, it can be turned into a model fit for an adult without much modification. I think of it as one of Tamiya's most versatile models. You can even take them racing at vintage events with some success:

2021-02-11_12-19-54

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a very good way of looking at it @TurnipJF - and I can see exactly what you mean. You're right in that I was perhaps expecting more than I should have been, it's very clearly listed as a beginner's car and kit. Just over-enthusiasm on my part, plus being massively spoilt by my dad when I was a kid, who as a former racer would avoid entry level stuff and go for more robust kits (hence the Losi buggy, which to this day I still consider myself to be a very, very lucky boy for getting that!!). However, I'm not disappointed in any way, I've absolutely loved every moment of the build so far, I still have the bodywork to go and then the joy of the first run!

Congratulations on the trophy with the Mad Bull buggy, that's awesome! I'd love to do some racing one day (see if my track skills transfer to RC cars! Doubtful!!), will have to look into clubs in the Milton Keynes area when life gets back to normal.

On the bodywork front, I've somehow managed to coerce my lovely wife, who does some fantastic miniature painting for her board game hobby, to paint the driver figure for me and apply the stickers to the body shell. This is a relief, as that's the part of modelling I really don't enjoy. Painting is fine when spray cans are involved though!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, B.RAD said:

And as for "gateway drug", you are so right!!! I'm already looking for the next one. I could do with some guidance there actually - I'm thinking about the following:

Blitzer Beetle, Dark Impact, Hot Shot or Super Hot Shot, Blackfoot, or possibly a Kyosho Tomahawk. 

Ideally I'd like something a little less flawed in its design (hope that's not too harsh, I don't mean it as a criticism). I'd like a buggy but LOVE monster truck style cars, and the Kyosho with its alloy components looks very intriguing. Is the Blitzer chassis any good? Any thoughts or guidance on the list, or any others to consider? I'd love an Avante but haven't put it on the list due to the price. I'm not budget restricted, but that's a bit of a stretch for me at the early stages of the hobby and with what I'll do with the cars.

There are a few models that combine attributes of buggy and monster truck designs in a pleasing manner. The Blackfoot and its sibling the Monster Beetle are built on the ORV chassis, shared by the Frog buggy, so if retro is your thing, this would give an interesting insight into how things used to be. There are a few little issues with the chassis, but there are also solutions, which we'd be happy to help with if you go down this route.

For something a bit more modern, there is the WT-01 truck platform, or its 4WD sibling the WR-01, both of which share their suspension with the TL-01B buggy. They have a wider stance and more of a monster truck-ish presence, and can be fitted with a wide variety of bodies. One member (I forget who) fitted a variety of touring-style shells to his WT and WR trucks, and they looked really good. They are also very rugged, coming close to Mad Bull levels of reliability. Add bearings, oil shocks, a steel pinion and perhaps taller shock towers, and they can run for ages with very little further attention.

The most recent release in this vein is the DT-03T Aqroshot - the truck version of the DT-03 buggy. A low, fast and nimble vehicle, let down a bit by its stock tyres, but a great performer once these have been swapped out for something more suitable. I run mine on the Mad Bull tyres I had surplus when I fitted my Mad Bull with buggy rubber, and these seem to suit it superbly. Others run them on Schumacher or Proline truck tyres with similar success. Not as crash-resistant, but significantly more refined than the other two options, they can handle a lot of power due to their strong gearboxes, and put it to good use due to their more advanced suspension. Youngest Mudlet and myself are using them to good effect in the postal racing.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, B.RAD said:

On the bodywork front, I've somehow managed to coerce my lovely wife, who does some fantastic miniature painting for her board game hobby, to paint the driver figure for me and apply the stickers to the body shell. This is a relief, as that's the part of modelling I really don't enjoy. Painting is fine when spray cans are involved though!

Great stuff! Having easy access to a skilled and willing painter is certainly a bonus. If I can't find someone sufficiently skilled to paint my drivers' faces, I sometimes make a visor for the helmet instead, or swap out the head for a F1-style one with a visor moulded in. 

  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

The most recent release in this vein is the DT-03T Aqroshot - the truck version of the DT-03 buggy.

This is the kind of thing that would work, thanks for the advice. I'd only been put off by the looks, but as you say a change of tyres would make a big difference. 

The thing I'm struggling with, I guess as a result of being a newbie, is all these chassis codes and how to find what models they are, and where they're available. Google has just yielded this resource, which is really helpful:

https://tamiyabase.com/chassis/135-wt-01#models-with-wt-01-chassis

So I'll do a bit more research on the chassis' you've listed above before I make a decision. You didn't mention the Blitzer Beetle though, is this one to avoid?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, B.RAD said:

You didn't mention the Blitzer Beetle though, is this one to avoid?

Not necessarily - it is just that I don't have one in my fleet, and I prefer to only give opinions on vehicles with which I have personal experience. A lot of people rate them highly.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Not necessarily - it is just that I don't have one in my fleet, and I prefer to only give opinions on vehicles with which I have personal experience. A lot of people rate them highly.

Appreciated - thank you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, B.RAD said:

......Congratulations on the trophy with the Mad Bull buggy, that's awesome! I'd love to do some racing one day (see if my track skills transfer to RC cars! Doubtful!!).....

If you mean 1/1 Racing - I'm from there too. Even though back in the 80's and 90's I Raced 1/10 and 1/8 Buggies.... AND Raced in SCCA, IMSA and NHRA with real Cars......

Sadly the behind the Wheel experience does NOT translate at all to RC, with a Wheel or Sticks. 

Different outlook, different feel, MUCH different perspective....... HOWEVER, things that you learned in big Cars, like cutting Apexes in turns, when to Throttle out of a Corner, when to apply - and release the Brakes when entering a Corner....

And if you're picking up the clues here, in a 1/1 Racecar, you're Driving the ENTIRE Track - opponent's positions, Track Conditions, condition of the CAR itself, and several other things.  Indeed the Corner Strategy IS crucial here! You'll never win a Race by scrubbing off Speed in the turns!!

RC Racing IS similar... But of course you're not sitting in it. Your Visceral Senses, the "Seat of the Pants" isn't there.  BUT in RC, when you get a long Straight... You just give her the beans!! 😜  Almost no Strategy in fast, straight runs.

Where ALL of your skill has to come into play? TURNS!!! 80-90% of nearly all RC Races are won and lost in the Corners. Not kidding!! 😲 

Obviously a 4-7lb RC Car will not take a high G Corner like its 2700lb counterpart.  Too much grip or too much Negative Camber on an outer Front Wheel - you'll GRIP ROLL, and cartwheel right off the edge of the Track.  TOO LITTLE OF EITHER, and you can get serious Understeer - sliding the outside Front Bumper, at high speed, into the Wall....

Lots with the Rear as well. Performance Cars and Buggies have a degree or 3 of Toe-In, On the BACK Wheels.  The Rear Toe-In adds stability - a bit when entering and a LOT when exiting Corners. Especially under high Power.

 

............ I just realised that I've already gone well beyond basic information here!! I don't mind of course. 😉  I just don't want to start going down a slippery slope.  There are lliterally tens of thousands - if not Hundreds of Thousands of individual Tuning Settings available, for an ENUMERABLE Number of RCs out there!!! 😲😳

BUT, IF ANYONE NEEDS SPECIFIC INFORMATION ABOUT THEIR CAR.... 

Many of us are happy to help!! 😁

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The blitzer is an excellent chassis. Pretty tough, can handle decent amount of power. I think it’s main limitation is the gearing options. Only 2 pinion sizes. The beetle has a hard body and the Stadium Thunder has a lexan one. With the right tyres it can handle dirt, tarmac and sand. There are lots of Blitzer owners ( including me) on this site. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Of the cars you've listed i only have the hotshot. It is a far more engaging build than the madbull as it is 4wd and the suspension is both an engineering marvel, as well as its achilles' heel. I believe the supershot sorted this. I enjoy driving my 'shot but be mindful it is a mid '80s design! I've always liked the look of the Tomahawk but having a 4wd instead might provide a nice counterpoint to the madbull.

I had a friend who had the dark impact. As a general basher it was fine but when we both started club level racing he snapped 2 chassis on consecutive weeks in the same place...some have also had issues with one of the idler gears wearing quickly, but my friend's was fine. I guess it depends on what motor/battery/surface/use frequency etc you go with.

I would suggest running your bull for a while and seeing what you enjoy about it and what you don't, which will then inform your choice of next kit. Soon you'll be buying basket cases off eBay too 🤪🥴

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Busdriver said:

The blitzer is an excellent chassis. Pretty tough, can handle decent amount of power. I think it’s main limitation is the gearing options. Only 2 pinion sizes. The beetle has a hard body and the Stadium Thunder has a lexan one. With the right tyres it can handle dirt, tarmac and sand. There are lots of Blitzer owners ( including me) on this site. 

Looking at the Blitzer manual, I bet you could adapt an adjustable Blackfoot motor mount and use more than the 2 pinions...  

Terry

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...