The M - Chassis TOPIC

[nicksincrc 119]

Hi, I want to replace my stock 540 in my M05 but don't want to go silly, I'm wondering whether to get a torque turned or spoil myself and get a lightly tuned or a third option a cheap carson cup but it lacks torque. Obviously the tamiya website states

TT 16000rpm 305 g/cm 10A

LT 16300rpm 565 g/cm ?A

open to suggestions, if someone has used both and can tell me how they differed that would be great. Obviously the LT is twice the cost so I'm just wondering 

fully ballraced, oil shocks , metal motor mount , 20t steel pinion,tbl02, 7.2 NiMH etc for reference 

thanks in advance 

[alvinlwh 5895]

33 minutes ago, nicksincrc said:

Hi, I want to replace my stock 540 in my M05 but don't want to go silly, I'm wondering whether to get a torque turned or spoil myself and get a lightly tuned or a third option a cheap carson cup but it lacks torque. Obviously the tamiya website states

TT 16000rpm 305 g/cm 10A

LT 16300rpm 565 g/cm ?A

open to suggestions, if someone has used both and can tell me how they differed that would be great. Obviously the LT is twice the cost so I'm just wondering 

fully ballraced, oil shocks , metal motor mount , 20t steel pinion,tbl02, 7.2 NiMH etc for reference 

thanks in advance 

I got a TT in my M-05 and it is fast enough to shred the tyres and have a LT ready to go into my next M-06 build. A LT should give more run time as it is 28T vs the 25T of the TT. Otherwise, they are broadly similar, except the price. One LT can buy 3 TT. 

[nicksincrc 119]

Can anyone tell me what 4000+ lipo fit the standard M05? Core rc? Overlander? 

 

Thanks 

[TurnipJF 9192]

1 hour ago, nicksincrc said:

Can anyone tell me what 4000+ lipo fit the standard M05? Core rc? Overlander? 

 

Thanks 

4000mAH Core RC 2s stick pack is what I use in mine. Fits without issue. 

[alvinlwh 5895]

5 hours ago, nicksincrc said:

Can anyone tell me what 4000+ lipo fit the standard M05? Core rc? Overlander? 

 

Thanks 

This is what I use. 

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B08L4FKZGT?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

[nicksincrc 119]

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

This is what I use. 

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B08L4FKZGT?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

yes I saw those on youtube but supply is sporadic, and even worse now 

[nicksincrc 119]

Hi, so I've been thinking and debating what project to do and the latest releases have sealed it as I've wanted the alpine a110 since I started back in the hobby but never any about until now , on pre-order and won't be here until june probably so plenty of time to get some bits together  So this will simply be doing some fun car park running and postal circuit, stock motor probably and 2s lipo. What upgrades beyond bearings and shocks does it NEED,  I like to replace screw pins where I can so take that as given even though I know it's not essential lol. Does it need aluminium steering like the 05? aluminium motor mount ? What are the 54000 dampers like @£60? just wondering as yeah racing ones plus springs will be £42+, or super mini cva and springs about £35. Looking forward to your thoughts 

[TurnipJF 9192]

1 hour ago, nicksincrc said:

Hi, so I've been thinking and debating what project to do and the latest releases have sealed it as I've wanted the alpine a110 since I started back in the hobby but never any about until now , on pre-order and won't be here until june probably so plenty of time to get some bits together  So this will simply be doing some fun car park running and postal circuit, stock motor probably and 2s lipo. What upgrades beyond bearings and shocks does it NEED,  I like to replace screw pins where I can so take that as given even though I know it's not essential lol. Does it need aluminium steering like the 05? aluminium motor mount ? What are the 54000 dampers like @£60? just wondering as yeah racing ones plus springs will be £42+, or super mini cva and springs about £35. Looking forward to your thoughts 

Like the majority of other Tamiyas at this level, the upgrades that it NEEDS are the Big Three - bearings, a steel pinion and oil shocks. 

The steering setup is the same as that used on the M-05, so if you believe the M-05 needs an alloy one, you will want one for the M-06 too. I found the stock one serviceable but sloppy, so I fitted a Yeah Racing alloy one which tightens things up nicely, but this was not an essential. At least in my opinion.

An alloy motor mount falls into the same category as an alloy steering rack. The stock one is serviceable but not very stiff and provides no meaningful cooling, so if you fancy alloy, by all means fit one, but don't feel that you have to.

A thought on shocks: Do you fancy using it as a strictly on-road runner, or will you be running it as a rally car or using it for display at any point? If you are running it on road, the stock ground clearance is pretty low and serves the purpose nicely. It allows part of the chassis tub to stick out below the Alpine body, but it keeps the centre of gravity down. However if you are running it on rally terrain, and/or using it for display, you might want a bit more ground clearance to suck the chassis tub up under cover of the body. This is achieved easily by fitting 55mm shocks instead of 50mm ones, and moving the body one hole down on the body posts. This preserves the correct relationship between wheel and wheel arch, but removes the tub from view and makes the car more capable on rough ground.

Something else you may want to consider is a runner body shell if you want to keep the Alpine one looking tidy for the shelf. The Kamtec "Hot Rod Beetle" shell is a direct fit, suits the motor placement, costs not a lot, and is quite resilient in collisions. 

[alvinlwh 5895]

1 hour ago, nicksincrc said:

What upgrades beyond bearings and shocks does it NEED,  I like to replace screw pins where I can so take that as given even though I know it's not essential lol. Does it need aluminium steering like the 05? aluminium motor mount ? What are the 54000 dampers like @£60? just wondering as yeah racing ones plus springs will be £42+, or super mini cva and springs about £35. Looking forward to your thoughts 

I got the 3R dampers but used the kit springs in them. 

I have the alum steering and front knuckles. The motor mount is just bing, looks really nice but not really necessary for the LT I am using in mine 

The interesting thing about the YR motor mount set is that it actually comes with ONE lightweight gearbox shaft. 

 

[nicksincrc 119]

On 2/3/2022 at 7:20 PM, TurnipJF said:

Like the majority of other Tamiyas at this level, the upgrades that it NEEDS are the Big Three - bearings, a steel pinion and oil shocks. 

The steering setup is the same as that used on the M-05, so if you believe the M-05 needs an alloy one, you will want one for the M-06 too. I found the stock one serviceable but sloppy, so I fitted a Yeah Racing alloy one which tightens things up nicely, but this was not an essential. At least in my opinion.

An alloy motor mount falls into the same category as an alloy steering rack. The stock one is serviceable but not very stiff and provides no meaningful cooling, so if you fancy alloy, by all means fit one, but don't feel that you have to.

A thought on shocks: Do you fancy using it as a strictly on-road runner, or will you be running it as a rally car or using it for display at any point? If you are running it on road, the stock ground clearance is pretty low and serves the purpose nicely. It allows part of the chassis tub to stick out below the Alpine body, but it keeps the centre of gravity down. However if you are running it on rally terrain, and/or using it for display, you might want a bit more ground clearance to suck the chassis tub up under cover of the body. This is achieved easily by fitting 55mm shocks instead of 50mm ones, and moving the body one hole down on the body posts. This preserves the correct relationship between wheel and wheel arch, but removes the tub from view and makes the car more capable on rough ground.

Something else you may want to consider is a runner body shell if you want to keep the Alpine one looking tidy for the shelf. The Kamtec "Hot Rod Beetle" shell is a direct fit, suits the motor placement, costs not a lot, and is quite resilient in collisions. 

Hi, I won't be rallying it as I don't have any suitable area and I hate or rather my helpers hate cleaning it afterwards lol it'll be a runner I don't really display them as such, and if I think it'll be going to get a bash I have the mx5 body on my M05(just realised it's short wheelbase not medium  so might need one ) I can use that's had a bash or two racing or rather crashing. I think I'll get the steering and motor mount while I can the motor mount looks painful to retro fit. Think I'll just have to keep my eye out for shocks at the right price, spring wise is it soft all round? 

[alvinlwh 5895]

39 minutes ago, nicksincrc said:

I think I'll get the steering and motor mount while I can the motor mount looks painful to retro fit. Think I'll just have to keep my eye out for shocks at the right price, spring wise is it soft all round? 

The steering is painful to retro fit and adjust. Like I said, I am disappointed with the layout of this chassis. most of the steering is under this cover which blocks access to turnbuckles, etc and that cover, IIRC, is linked to the front shocks tower.

You are better off using the kit springs, even the instructions calls for them to be used for Tamiya's own CVAs. They are hard on the back and soft on the front.

Another thing you may want to take account of, for some reason, a standard servo don't seem to sit correctly in position. You may want to use a low profile one to sit easily.

 

[nicksincrc 119]

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

The steering is painful to retro fit and adjust. Like I said, I am disappointed with the layout of this chassis. most of the steering is under this cover which blocks access to turnbuckles, etc and that cover, IIRC, is linked to the front shocks tower.

You are better off using the kit springs, even the instructions calls for them to be used for Tamiya's own CVAs. They are hard on the back and soft on the front.

Another thing you may want to take account of, for some reason, a standard servo don't seem to sit correctly in position. You may want to use a low profile one to sit easily.

 

Hi thanks that's interesting, I didn't know about the servo?? How do you find the 3r shocks? I was referring to m chassis springs you can get, very soft but if the kit ones work OK then it will save me 

17 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

 

 

[alvinlwh 5895]

18 minutes ago, nicksincrc said:

Hi thanks that's interesting, I didn't know about the servo?? How do you find the 3r shocks? I was referring to m chassis springs you can get, very soft but if the kit ones work OK then it will save me 

 

It might just be me, but to me it just feels like it don't sit right. It is things like this on the chassis that makes me think it is not well designed. Another example (I may have mentioned it already) is the switch position/holder that felt like an afterthought. 

At stock, the 3R shocks' springs feels very short. A lot of preload (about 2/3?) is needed to get them to sit on their stops. It feels better when I used the stock springs. It is supposed to be (I think?) stiffer at the back due to the weight of the motor.

[TurnipJF 9192]

20 minutes ago, nicksincrc said:

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

Another thing you may want to take account of, for some reason, a standard servo don't seem to sit correctly in position. You may want to use a low profile one to sit easily.

 

Hi thanks that's interesting, I didn't know about the servo??

Interesting - I can't say I had any issues fitting a standard servo into mine. I used an Alturn AAS700STD.

However "standard" is a bit of a misleading term, as there is a fair bit of size variation between different makes and models of so-called standard servo. Perhaps mine is on the smaller side and/or @alvinlwh has a slightly larger one?

[alvinlwh 5895]

6 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

However "standard" is a bit of a misleading term, as there is a fair bit of size variation between different makes and models of so-called standard servo. Perhaps mine is on the smaller side and/or @alvinlwh has a slightly larger one?

Just to elaborate, mine seem to hit the bottom and need the screws to "draw it in" if it makes sense. I know I had not done that many Tamiya but it is not the "everything slots together" that I am used to. If it makes sense. 

[TurnipJF 9192]

5 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Just to elaborate, mine seem to hit the bottom and need the screws to "draw it in" if it makes sense. I know I had not done that many Tamiya but it is not the "everything slots together" that I am used to. If it makes sense. 

Aye, it sounds like your servo is a fair bit deeper than mine then. Mine doesn't need to be pulled down onto the mounts at all, and even has space underneath for the cable to be routed to the slot under the battery bay.

I agree with you about the switch position though. Stuck onto the chassis with a piece of double-sided tape doesn't exactly scream thoughtful design, does it? That said, it does seem to work reasonably well. Mine hasn't come off yet.

[nicksincrc 119]

1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

Interesting - I can't say I had any issues fitting a standard servo into mine. I used an Alturn AAS700STD.

However "standard" is a bit of a misleading term, as there is a fair bit of size variation between different makes and models of so-called standard servo. Perhaps mine is on the smaller side and/or @alvinlwh has a slightly larger one?

What servo is that AAS752MG?? 

[alvinlwh 5895]

1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

I agree with you about the switch position though. Stuck onto the chassis with a piece of double-sided tape doesn't exactly scream thoughtful design, does it? That said, it does seem to work reasonably well. Mine hasn't come off yet

Don't get me wrong, the switch position is a easily resolved one. I just clip it to the side of the 1060 (facing down) as HW intended and it works perfectly. It is just the way Tamiya implemented it makes it feels kind of short of their usual well thought out design/layout. 

[TurnipJF 9192]

6 minutes ago, nicksincrc said:

What servo is that AAS752MG?? 

I used an Alturn AAS700STD.

[Busdriver 6209]

Have been quietly putting together my M05 today when I noticed something unusual. 

at the back of the chassis is an extended part sticking out. It’s the bit at the end of the pointer with square holes in it. Everything fits perfectly and lines up. I haven’t built the shocks yet but I’ve used a straight edge to check alignment. It is being built at 239mm. Am I missing something somewhere!!!!

Also I thought I had a 20t hard pinion in my spares but was another Tamiya silver putty one. I have 18 and 16 steel ones. I’m going to use a Torque Tuned motor and either 7.2v or 2s lipo?

Edited February 18, 2022 by Busdriver
Missed a bit!!!!

[Busdriver 6209]

Sorry double post

[Raman36 1657]

You mean the duck tail? Lol. It’s quite normal. When you change to longer wheelbase they are covered. Short wheel base the stock out. Unfortunately some short wheelbase bodies won’t clear that piece, like the Mini Montercalo.. so you have to notch  the body to clear it 

[Busdriver 6209]

1 hour ago, Raman36 said:

You mean the duck tail? Lol. It’s quite normal. When you change to longer wheelbase they are covered. Short wheel base the stock out. Unfortunately some short wheelbase bodies won’t clear that piece, like the Mini Montercalo.. so you have to notch  the body to clear it 

This is at the long setting? It fits perfectly under the Yaris . It doesn’t appear on the instructions. I’m not overly concerned unless something isn’t actually right!!!

[Raman36 1657]

You’ll be fine with Yaris. No fitment issues

[alvinlwh 5895]

54 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

This is at the long setting? It fits perfectly under the Yaris . It doesn’t appear on the instructions. I’m not overly concerned unless something isn’t actually right!!!

I don't actually have that at the 225mm setting and I cannot seem to find a part looking like that in the instructions. Maybe it is because mine is the Ra chassis? 🤷