The M - Chassis TOPIC

[TenzoR 65]

On 11/17/2022 at 1:44 AM, berman said:

Unfortunately not. Nearly all have the front mount on each chassis are inline with the front axle, but there is 2-3 options for spacing of the rear mounts on m chassis cars. Kitset bodies have pre drilled holes, but the (#47×××) lightweight bodies and now some of the bodysets (#51×××) don't have pre drilled holes. 

The M08 only has one option for the rear mounts, (if you use the mount stabilisers) which correlates to which wheelbase you decide to use.

Measure the distance of the holes on each body and I will let you know if they fit an M08.

Otherwise you can acquire an M04 👍 

 

It's about 10" 

[berman 5317]

14 hours ago, TenzoR said:

It's about 10" 

Yeah that sounds about right. Just measured my M04L beetle with the rear posts turned around (so they are the same as the S2000) and I get about 10", unfortunately the M08 is only 8" and that's really the only option for the 239mm wheelbase unless you want to custom make something or go with magnets.

[TenzoR 65]

7 hours ago, berman said:

Yeah that sounds about right. Just measured my M04L beetle with the rear posts turned around (so they are the same as the S2000) and I get about 10", unfortunately the M08 is only 8" and that's really the only option for the 239mm wheelbase unless you want to custom make something or go with magnets.

I guess you can let me know who would be interested in buying it 

[Sogogi 3359]

I really enjoy my mf-01x! Love to try some 2wd m chassis soon..

[YoShImUrA53 37]

On 11/20/2022 at 5:15 AM, Sogogi said:

I really enjoy my mf-01x! Love to try some 2wd m chassis soon..

Just remove the propshaft and the dogbones from it, and run it as a 2WD, for competitive dirt rallying and does surprisingly well! it really runs much better than you would expect at first.

I've only tried RWD. I don't think it would do any good as a FWD with the motor hanging from the back.

I did widen the opening in the chassis for the steering turnbuckles (try in all heights and angles to make sure it doesn't bind) to have a wider angle, as well as remove a bit of material from the knuckles were they have a small block to prevent from turning more. These two small details opens up a bit the steering.

MF-01X is not a treat to build, IMO, but both its performance and versatility for wheelbase changes and having either AWD and RWD is really good!

[Willy iine 18826]

@YoShImUrA53 Do the MF-01X drive as fast as say a M05 gearing wise?   I've never owned a MF-01X, so don't know..but I've been eyeing that rally Beetle for some time.     TIA

[Kowalski86 4076]

7 hours ago, YoShImUrA53 said:

Just remove the propshaft and the dogbones from it, and run it as a 2WD, for competitive dirt rallying and does surprisingly well! it really runs much better than you would expect at first.

MF-01X is not a treat to build, IMO, but both its performance and versatility for wheelbase changes and having either AWD and RWD is really good!

Wouldn't dirt and rocks get into the cups? Theres a thread where I asked about making my Bug RWD and I was advised to leave the dogbones in.

I'm very careful with my MF knowing that replacing gears or changing the servo can take a while, they are a bit tedious to service.

 

[YoShImUrA53 37]

On 11/21/2022 at 2:51 PM, Willy iine said:

@YoShImUrA53 Do the MF-01X drive as fast as say a M05 gearing wise?   I've never owned a MF-01X, so don't know..but I've been eyeing that rally Beetle for some time.     TIA

I wouldn't know, as I (yet) don't own one, sorry! I'd say, go for it! it has a lot of potential, if, the build phase, is probably the least enticing of all my Tamiyas. But you'll be amazed how well it goes out of the box!

On 11/21/2022 at 5:18 PM, Kowalski86 said:

Wouldn't dirt and rocks get into the cups? Theres a thread where I asked about making my Bug RWD and I was advised to leave the dogbones in.

I'm very careful with my MF knowing that replacing gears or changing the servo can take a while, they are a bit tedious to service.

 

Well, inside the bit that holds the dog bones, if you put grease, then, yes. But that dirt can be easily removed. And even then, not really an issue, as most of the dirt you'll lift will be from the rear axle, which you're a bit far away at the front. How many other cars you share a dirt track, or time you spend running in reverse, is a different matter. 

But to answer your concern: one thing is to leave the front diff in, which I personally did, to avoid opening the chassis (I think we all share the sentiment of not being a service-friendly chassis), as well as to have "something" avoiding dirt getting into the front gearbox.

Whether you keep the dogbones in or not, if you clear the cups of grease (personally, I put none to very little to precisely avoid caking it in mud), there's no issue. Worst thing is that you'll have to wipe the dirt again to put it back in 4WD, so no big deal anyway? I personally removed them to avoid extra friction from the front axle, and being able to dial in more steering angle (very recommended mod!). 

[Kowalski86 4076]

6 hours ago, YoShImUrA53 said:

I wouldn't know, as I (yet) don't own one, sorry! I'd say, go for it! it has a lot of potential, if, the build phase, is probably the least enticing of all my Tamiyas. But you'll be amazed how well it goes out of the box!

Well, inside the bit that holds the dog bones, if you put grease, then, yes. But that dirt can be easily removed. And even then, not really an issue, as most of the dirt you'll lift will be from the rear axle, which you're a bit far away at the front. How many other cars you share a dirt track, or time you spend running in reverse, is a different matter. 

But to answer your concern: one thing is to leave the front diff in, which I personally did, to avoid opening the chassis (I think we all share the sentiment of not being a service-friendly chassis), as well as to have "something" avoiding dirt getting into the front gearbox.

Whether you keep the dogbones in or not, if you clear the cups of grease (personally, I put none to very little to precisely avoid caking it in mud), there's no issue. Worst thing is that you'll have to wipe the dirt again to put it back in 4WD, so no big deal anyway? I personally removed them to avoid extra friction from the front axle, and being able to dial in more steering angle (very recommended mod!). 

Thank you for the input, I've decided to try driving it as is before trying any RWD mods. As you said this chassis is a bit of a bear to service.

If I could, I'd take the body and place it on a more simple chassis, if this is an M-sized Tl01 then I wouldn't mind an M-sized TT-02. Driving this thing more than any other RC has taught me to care for them in order to avoid hunting dogbones in the street or removing numerous screws.

If anything with how conventional the DT Buggies are and the TT line up is I'm surprised that the M-chassis uses a "plastic brick halves" design. It's a tough, versatile design that allows for different wheelbases...but might be a bit odd for newcomers.

Then again, the M06 does look like a very squashed buggy chassis.

 

[Honza 1117]

On 11/21/2022 at 2:51 PM, Willy iine said:

@YoShImUrA53 Do the MF-01X drive as fast as say a M05 gearing wise?   I've never owned a MF-01X, so don't know..but I've been eyeing that rally Beetle for some time.     TIA

It doesn't, it has TL01 gearing with relatively small pinions - the manual shows range between 9.5 - 7.5.

You could get closer to M-05 range with TL-01 speed tuned gears, but there's reduced contact between spur and counter gear, because MF-01 runs the counter gear flipped around.

Edit: found a picture of the issue on the Internet. It should still work if you don't use too hot motor

[BuggyDad 5391]

With a M-08R on the way i thought I'd post a question or two on here. Presumably it's the right thread? 

(I figured bombarding @Badcrumblewith questions on the general "today" thread was a bit antisocial) 

Most importantly, where would you recommend starting on wheelbase? 225mm because it's the middle option? I would stick with one wheelbase initially because of shell, and choose it now for the same reason. 

Any other starting tips? Oil weight? Camber and toe? This looks a really well specced chassis so I anticipate building it entirely stock, but I'm new to on-road and mini chassis. 

I have 17.5t Speed Passion motor 10BL60 ESC, so fairly mild brushless, and hard case stick Lipos, which I assume will all be appropriate. 

Does the M-08R come with wheels and tyres? I think I read somewhere it does not. And in any case - tyre choice - I guess just start with soft all round for cold and slightly slimy tarmac, which I think would be 54995 from this thread:

They are pricey though at £15 a pair. Which is perhaps a product of limited availability. There are relatively few sellers of either these or the S-grip. But I assume tyres if anything are the one part one should buy the best of. 

 

[Vertigo35 81]

This post might be interesting. I used the same source for M-05 and it was full of useful info (for FWD m-chassis though). https://www.thercracer.com/2019/06/58669-tamiya-m08-build-tips-review.html?m=0

[svenb 3914]

@BuggyDad the M08R comes with wheels(white 11 spoke) but not tyres.

[BuggyDad 5391]

3 hours ago, Vertigo35 said:

This post might be interesting. I used the same source for M-05 and it was full of useful info (for FWD m-chassis though). https://www.thercracer.com/2019/06/58669-tamiya-m08-build-tips-review.html?m=0

Ah ha. Thanks. Yes, it gives some insight into setup. A couple of things caught my attention-

- he really likes the stock gear diff, yet the M-08R comes with a ball diff. I've never used a ball diff so am a bit wary of it, and most folk commenting on the subject seem to have experience of cooking them, so I can see a gear diff in my future sometime. Also, it's same as XV-01, which suits me. 

- he started with the max rear toe in (3.8°)

- he added quite a lot of the upgrades that come in the R. Eg the shocks. 

- he didn't refer to having to modify any arms or hubs, which this chap did (on the R) and regarded it as a kit that needed quite a lot of that just to assemble it as stock:

I don't mind a bit of cutting though, so should be fine either way. 

Looks to me like the R also comes with hex screws where the 08 doesn't. That's a few quid I'd have definitely spent.

[toyolien 5598]

@BuggyDad I've only ever driven and M-05 and M-07r, but I've got an M-08r here waiting to be built. I've read a lot about set ups and time and time again I see that people say that the kit manual set up works marvellous. So, that's what I'm going to go with. I won't be racing mine, it'll just be used for fun on a local car park. I also read that the ball diff is better suited to asphalt/tarmac, where as the gear diff is more suited to carpet (in a rwd car).

My M-05 was a 225mm set up, and my M-07r is 239mm. Essentially, the 225mm is the safest. 210mm will have better turn in, and the 239mm will be more stable at speeds. None of which I think will matter on a car park. So, I'd just go with the body you like the look of the most.

I also plan on using a 17.5t Tamiya TBLM motor. When I first built my M-07r I put in a 10.5t and it was like a rocket, but the front tires lasted 2 batteries. Now with a 17.5t it's much more driveable, looks more 'scale', and the tires last a lot longer.

[Kowalski86 4076]

@toyolien

Imo a shorter wheelbase could be more fun at a carpark.

I picked up one of the "fancy" M06 kits used, the one with white wheels and clear shocks. Unfortunately, 3 out of four of them leak, is it typically the caps that leak or is it the damper itself? 

Currently I have black mini CVAs on the back, clears up front with no (or at least little) oil, gives it a bit higher clearance in the rear and shifts weight up front.

[stulec52 54]

On 1/12/2023 at 9:38 AM, BuggyDad said:

With a M-08R on the way i thought I'd post a question or two on here. Presumably it's the right thread? 

(I figured bombarding @Badcrumblewith questions on the general "today" thread was a bit antisocial) 

Most importantly, where would you recommend starting on wheelbase? 225mm because it's the middle option? I would stick with one wheelbase initially because of shell, and choose it now for the same reason. 

Any other starting tips? Oil weight? Camber and toe? This looks a really well specced chassis so I anticipate building it entirely stock, but I'm new to on-road and mini chassis. 

I have 17.5t Speed Passion motor 10BL60 ESC, so fairly mild brushless, and hard case stick Lipos, which I assume will all be appropriate. 

Does the M-08R come with wheels and tyres? I think I read somewhere it does not. And in any case - tyre choice - I guess just start with soft all round for cold and slightly slimy tarmac, which I think would be 54995 from this thread:

They are pricey though at £15 a pair. Which is perhaps a product of limited availability. There are relatively few sellers of either these or the S-grip. But I assume tyres if anything are the one part one should buy the best of. 

 

I race a hopped up 08, and 07.
  Middle length works best for me on both, but I race indoors on Black carpet.
   Most 08 racers have done the steering mod : https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4748128365202216&set=p.4748128365202216&type=3
 Hopefully the picture shows up.
   that's the biggest single improvement I've found for the car over the stock setup
 M03/04 servo saver.

 My local club runs a quite competitive Mini class, and this season it has been won by M03, M05, M07, and M08
 All of those chassis can be made to work just fine at our track.  the 04 and 06 don't work as well for whatever reason. Personally I find the 08 works best on flowing tracks, and the 07 is a bit better if we do a tighter layout.
The difference between front and rear drive I guess

 

 

[Raman36 1712]

55 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

@toyolien

Imo a shorter wheelbase could be more fun at a carpark.

I picked up one of the "fancy" M06 kits used, the one with white wheels and clear shocks. Unfortunately, 3 out of four of them leak, is it typically the caps that leak or is it the damper itself? 

Currently I have black mini CVAs on the back, clears up front with no (or at least little) oil, gives it a bit higher clearance in the rear and shifts weight up front.

Change the o ring in the shocks to the Tamiya clear ones from the rebuild kit 53574

[BuggyDad 5391]

On 1/14/2023 at 2:30 AM, stulec52 said:

Most 08 racers have done the steering mod : https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=4748128365202216&set=p.4748128365202216&type=3
 Hopefully the picture shows up.
   that's the biggest single improvement I've found for the car over the stock setup

So is this to remove steering arms and bridge and go to direct mount on servo saver? Is it about increasing Ackerman? Increasing steering throw? 

[BuggyDad 5391]

Ferrari Dino shell for my M-08R - quick straw poll: red or yellow? 

[Busdriver 6281]

1 hour ago, BuggyDad said:

Ferrari Dino shell for my M-08R - quick straw poll: red or yellow? 

Red red red red red red red red …………

[stulec52 54]

6 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

So is this to remove steering arms and bridge and go to direct mount on servo saver? Is it about increasing Ackerman? Increasing steering throw? 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/327633474533912

  If you do Facebook, have a look.
  Or give it a try to compare.
 I like it. Others might not.

[Re-Bugged 11297]

8 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

Ferrari Dino shell for my M-08R - quick straw poll: red or yellow? 

Red with a yellow racing stripe 😉

Someone did it on a different Ferrari on here and looks great. 

[BuggyDad 5391]

2 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Red with a yellow racing stripe 😉

Someone did it on a different Ferrari on here and looks great. 

Now that is a very good shout. 

https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/news/red-ferrari-488-pista-with-yellow-stripes-shows-peacock-spec-135067_1.jpg

I'd like to have a go at a stripe like that anyway. I have another shell I want to do similar with. How do you get really really really crisp lines? 

[Re-Bugged 11297]

1 hour ago, BuggyDad said:

Now that is a very good shout. 

https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/news/red-ferrari-488-pista-with-yellow-stripes-shows-peacock-spec-135067_1.jpg

I'd like to have a go at a stripe like that anyway. I have another shell I want to do similar with. How do you get really really really crisp lines? 

Can’t see the image mate, but I find the white ‘curvy’ Tamiya masking tape best for clean lines. It can be done with the yellow tape to, I’ve personally had most of my best results with the white. 

Press the edges down with a fingernail or similar. Apply paint in dust coats building up layers (usually 10-20mins between coats depending on the weather). While the last coat is still a bit soft but dry VERY gently follow the line of tape with a razor sharp scalpel to score it. Then pulled the tape back on its self to remove it, not pealing it off 90 degrees from the body if that makes sense.