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The M - Chassis TOPIC

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The m06 is great, but I had to install oil dampers. It was way too bouncy with stock friction shocks. 
It is almost a drift machine on smooth garage concrete. 

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On 2/6/2021 at 5:58 AM, TurnipJF said:

Agreed. It is such a simple fix for such an obvious issue. 

Hi @TurnipJF I am a bear of very small brains, so would you mind explaining the issue with the MF01X, and the fix?

Thanks!

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As we’re on the m class chassis can someone confirm which CVA’s I require for the MF01-X is it mini or super mini?

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38 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

As we’re on the m class chassis can someone confirm which CVA’s I require for the MF01-X is it mini or super mini?

Super Mini, the ones below are built with no internal spacers to give 55mm length for maximum ground clearance.

 

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38 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

As we’re on the m class chassis can someone confirm which CVA’s I require for the MF01-X is it mini or super mini?

I'm pretty sure the minis (as come with touring car chassis) are fine...I have them in my M-03 and M-06.

The M07 Pro comes with the same cylinders as the TA07 pro, the M06 comes with piston rods in case you choose upgraded dampers, and those pistons are the same as come with a TT02, so again I assume the 55mm set up is fine

Presumably the super minis create lower ground clearance, so for the rally MF01-X 55mm will be fine?

But I am just working on logic / assumption here, and there could be a good mechanical / technical reason that points to me talking bobbins 

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I'm doing a lot of drooling here, there are some absolute beauties on this thread!

My contribution; I have two built, one an M-06 Beetle built with the uprights from an M-05ra and rally block tyres for extra ground clearance. It has mini CVAs left over from a TT02 and a few carbon braces, but other than that is pretty much stock

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The other is an M-03 Mini which I bought as the 1/10 equivalent of a barn find, and restored back to running order and some semblance of presentability

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It has mini CVAs left over from another TT02, and some Fibre Lyte braces, but other than that is stock

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Still to build I've got an M-06 Alpine, M-07R with a Karmann Ghia shell, M-08 with an Alfa Giulia shell, and the new MF-01X Escort. Lots of fun to look forward to!

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39 minutes ago, IoWBasher said:

Super Mini, the ones below are built with no internal spacers to give 55mm length for maximum ground clearance.

 

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Looks good. Haven’t started mine yet

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10 hours ago, Dakratfink said:

The m06 is great, but I had to install oil dampers. It was way too bouncy with stock friction shocks. 
It is almost a drift machine on smooth garage concrete. 

Its a hard one to tame, I put on soft shocks, the hard stabilizer bars and s grip on the rear and normal 60d's up front. It handles better now, I can take corners a lot faster.

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Has anybody tried using hub waight on the m06. On the rear and would this be worthwhile?

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3 hours ago, DayRider said:

Its a hard one to tame, I put on soft shocks, the hard stabilizer bars and s grip on the rear and normal 60d's up front. It handles better now, I can take corners a lot faster.

I have soft springs with HPI shocks with 30w oil in mine . The Miata MX5 kit I bought came with S compound rear tires already 

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7 hours ago, DayRider said:

Its a hard one to tame, I put on soft shocks, the hard stabilizer bars and s grip on the rear and normal 60d's up front. It handles better now, I can take corners a lot faster.

Interesting. I found mine relatively easy to tame, but then I fitted CVAs at the outset which no doubt helped a lot.

Also, my previous RWD M-chassis experience was with the M-04, which is a really really tricky car, so pretty much anything will seem easy by comparison.

Although I daresay it is still relatively hard to tame compared to the M-08, which was on the pace straight from the building board. Gotta love that car!

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23 hours ago, Juhunio said:

Would you mind explaining the issue with the MF01X, and the fix?

Thanks!

In stock form, the right rear upper suspension link fouls the the area where the propshaft exits the gearbox before the suspension reaches full droop. By using a long ball connector to space the outer end of the the link forwards a little, it clears the gearbox and allows the suspension to droop symmetrically.

2019-12-23_05-42-23

 

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On 2/9/2021 at 8:21 PM, TurnipJF said:

Interesting. I found mine relatively easy to tame, but then I fitted CVAs at the outset which no doubt helped a lot.

Also, my previous RWD M-chassis experience was with the M-04, which is a really really tricky car, so pretty much anything will seem easy by comparison.

Although I daresay it is still relatively hard to tame compared to the M-08, which was on the pace straight from the building board. Gotta love that car!

When I first put it together I followed the manual. It was always losing the back end and it was a nightmare, even to the point were I was like " what have I done!" but by this time I had some new shocks for my M07, so I used the kit ones on the M06 and laid them down on the top of the mount. but still any time I would give it the beans it would spin out or coming out of a bend it would be the same. ( tble-02 T'Tuned motor so not like its over powered) I tried so many spring set ups and then saw the best results with the softest spring, but it would always loose grip on fast bends. I then put on the stabilizer kit and used the soft set first and it got better, so I popped on the harder ones. I must also add, it's set at 225mm wheel base and the power pack goes to the front to even out the weight. The last thing I did was tyre set up, but as you know that is more to do with conditions. At the moment 60D front and S-grip on the rear for now.

In the car park where I live there is a nice part that doubles up as my sha-cain and if I can get it round it with out it loosing grip or flipping out, at full tilt, then it will handle anything. Its like my proving ground.

At the moment I might have to upgrade my ESC, because its having a few problems ( it came with the kit and it's never been right, a bit glitchy ) and if I go brushless, I'll also get a new motor. (17.5t that would be plenty )I think I will lay the shocks down at the bottom ( that if the new set up is faster ) and possibly add 5g weights to the rear hubs, but I will cross that bridge when I get to it. 

All said and done I have enjoyed every minuet of it, make a little change, take it for a run, go back in work on it, back out, never giving up till I got it. Before the M06 I ran FWD or 4WD, so it was a big change for me and the lessons that I have learned along the way.

You say the M04 is a tricky one? I think I will keep an eye out for one. I must say I'm well hooked on the M-chassis' and would like to get some of the older ones. So hard to find these days. I have seen a few videos of the new MF-01X with the Ford RS2000 body, and would like to add that to the collection.

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Hello there!  I have only previously built a Lunchbox which was a teenage dream back in the 80's and it's great to finally make it a reality so I am loving all the pictures of people's builds on the M-chassis and would like a little advice if possible? 

 

My next build was destined to be an MF01X Beetle Rally, got some good basic hop-ups (learned from the LB build experience) and this is will be first time putting together CVA shocks when I get to it.  However, having seen all the Mini's (and having owned 3 in my younger years) I want to build one too.  Is it OK to use the MF01X as a Rally Mini would be great or should I postpone that build and get an M05 or M05RA chassis to build a Mini on?  I would prefer to stay true to the history of the car but also sticking to a budget so the wife doesn't tear me a new one...

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On 2/10/2021 at 6:28 AM, TurnipJF said:

In stock form, the right rear upper suspension link fouls the the area where the propshaft exits the gearbox before the suspension reaches full droop. By using a long ball connector to space the outer end of the the link forwards a little, it clears the gearbox and allows the suspension to droop symmetrically.

Thank you, very useful. The long ball connector looks pretty much like these chaps, is that right?

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3 minutes ago, Juhunio said:

Thank you, very useful. The long ball connector looks pretty much like these chaps, is that right?

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Yes indeed - those be the ones.

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What do people think is the best diff set up for the MF01-X? My thought was to use a little putty in the rear diff and some AW grease in the front?  Have just realised I put the diffs in the wrong way round so actually have the opposite. Before I strip it down and start again I thought I should ask🤨

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11 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

What do people think is the best diff set up for the MF01-X? My thought was to use a little putty in the rear diff and some AW grease in the front?  Have just realised I put the diffs in the wrong way round so actually have the opposite. Before I strip it down and start again I thought I should ask🤨

For a road or rally setup, having the front diff stiffer than the rear is generally a good idea, so I would leave it as-is. If you find it too stiff altogether, then perhaps put the AW diff in the front and replace the putty with yellow kit grease for the back.

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22 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

For a road or rally setup, having the front diff stiffer than the rear is generally a good idea, so I would leave it as-is. If you find it too stiff altogether, then perhaps put the AW diff in the front and replace the putty with yellow kit grease for the back.

Phew that’s saved me a job. Quite a lot to do to change them over.

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2 hours ago, Kyrotek said:

Hello there!  I have only previously built a Lunchbox which was a teenage dream back in the 80's and it's great to finally make it a reality so I am loving all the pictures of people's builds on the M-chassis and would like a little advice if possible? 

 

My next build was destined to be an MF01X Beetle Rally, got some good basic hop-ups (learned from the LB build experience) and this is will be first time putting together CVA shocks when I get to it.  However, having seen all the Mini's (and having owned 3 in my younger years) I want to build one too.  Is it OK to use the MF01X as a Rally Mini would be great or should I postpone that build and get an M05 or M05RA chassis to build a Mini on?  I would prefer to stay true to the history of the car but also sticking to a budget so the wife doesn't tear me a new one...

Unfortunately, Tamiya no longer produce the the Mini bodyshell. It was a 210mm wheelbase so you could use the MF-01X or an M03. I believe Yeah Racing make hub adapters that can shorten an M07 to 210mm too.

There are copies available on eBay and if you like the Clubman front, there is a version available from RCon available on eBay.

There is also a Phat bodies version which I believe will fit on a 210-225 wheelbase depending on how you trim its arches so you can have an M05 Mini.

 

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Thanks @Badcrumble

I have found a body so shouldn't have too much trouble there although it's a shame Tamiya haven't made a new one (too.easy) I guess my real.problem is my stubborness and  critical nature in that although I have a perfectly good MF01X... Mini's should front engined and front wheel drive, not rear engine 4WD.

I suppose as this ia an RC car it shouldn't matter but for.some.reason it has become a sticking point, which is a bit daft really.

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@Kyrotek I know what you mean, my Escort body is going on an old M04 for that reason even though the motor is in the wrong place, the correct wheels are driven!

Live your Mini dream!

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Thing is there are examples of 4wd classic Minis, as there are Escorts.

Saying that I appreciate the RWD Escort and FWD Mini are the originals ^_^

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17 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

Unfortunately, Tamiya no longer produce the the Mini bodyshell. It was a 210mm wheelbase so you could use the MF-01X or an M03. I believe Yeah Racing make hub adapters that can shorten an M07 to 210mm too.

There are copies available on eBay and if you like the Clubman front, there is a version available from RCon available on eBay.

There is also a Phat bodies version which I believe will fit on a 210-225 wheelbase depending on how you trim its arches so you can have an M05 Mini.

 

Only issue you may have with Mini body on the MF01-X platform is the amount the motor sticks out the back and the annoying spur that also sticks out. The Mini body has almost nil rear overhang so might not cover it?

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36 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Only issue you may have with Mini body on the MF01-X platform is the amount the motor sticks out the back and the annoying spur that also sticks out. The Mini body has almost nil rear overhang so might not cover it?

I think the Mini body is too short for the M07 225mm with the yeah racing 210mm hubs also 😕

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