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Killajb

What is the "Pest" of your collection?

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On 2/6/2021 at 9:56 PM, Wetman said:

Ah yes the sand master. You kind of forgot to mention the electric chassis it was based on would flex that much it would acually separate the pinion from the spur at the slightest hiccup in the road.

Actually I didn't know that!  Might explain why I was always stripping spurs?

The conversion from electric to nitro was bizarre.  IIRC there was a metal plate bolted to the chassis, I think it had a very slight angle in it to tilt the motor.

Then there was the motor mount.  It was made of the same pot metal as an SRB transmission, and IIRC it had 5 machine screws holding it onto the metal plate.  Getting to the screws from underneath wasn't easy, and back in those days I'd never even heard of JIS, let alone had access to a JIS screwdriver.  All I had was my Dad's half-rounded Size 2 Posidrive, since my Dad was never one to use a Size 3 Posidrive on an overtorqued Size 3 screw if there was a Size 2 Posidrive conveniently to hand.  Those little screws would back out as soon as the motor hit full RPM, and the resultant vibrations caused the mount to shatter.  A heavy helping of threadlock sort of helped in the end, but as it was those screws that needed adjusting to set the pinion mesh, it wasn't an ideal situation.

Also the exhaust seemed to be an afterthought.  Or, indeed, a no-thought.  It fired out directly onto the rear shock.  No matter how it was adjusted, the rear shock always got plastered with oil.  I found a little piece of rubber tube which was a perfect fit and took the exhaust out past the back of the car, but I'm guessing  the motor was designed with a specific tuned length exhaust in mind (possibly to get the correct pulsing in the expansion chamber to keep the fresh charge in the combustion chamber) because with that rubber tube on it never seemed to have as much power.

Oh, and the air filter was a pain, too.  The body had a cut-out for the nitro motor (which always truck me as a cheap way out) but the air filter was hidden under the windscreen.  Except, according to the Book of Rules, one should stop the motor by compressing the air filter.  So that meant taking the shell off first.  Which wasn't easy if there was an electrical fault and the motor was running away at full chat (back in those days all I had were cheap NiCad rechargeable AAs for the car radio so this was a common occurrence) and the only way to stop the motor was to pinch the fuel pipe.  Which probably isn't recommended, as the motor will momentarily run at full temp with no oil in it.

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My collection pest has to be my pride and joy of my rc fleet my Avante black special and after a few light runs it's now a shelf queen but it's still managing to jam its rear gearbox gears half a dozen times I've picked it up and the rear wheels are locked I take the top gearbox cover off can't find anything wrong with it put it back on it runs free check it a few days later still smooth and free few days after that its locked?🤔

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True to form..  I went out for a test run yesterday of "The Pest".  This time, I changed the esc, and receiver since my last run.  All seemed okay until I went about 10m out and then I suddenly couldn't control it for a second.  Scary though, because I have a pretty fast brushless motor in there.  I thought it was a fluke, so I tried to cruise out to a distance again and the same thing happened.  I got spooked, turned the car off and walked back home.   

 

I know I'm using a new esc (HobbyWing 10BL120) and FlySky GT3C radio/receiver this time so perhaps a new problem was introduced..    To verify the radio, I took out my Bullhead and had a go with it.  Was able to run a 5200mah pack until the low-voltage setting kicked in.  Super long range (50m +) without any issue whatsoever.  Next:  I took out my Yokomo B4-Maxx which also runs a HobbyWing 10BL120 esc and the FlySky tx/rx and ran without issues.  Pest indeed..

I'm not superstitious at all.  Surely there is a reason for the issues I am experiencing, and I'll sort them out slowly but surely.  Still, it's a wonder to have them all happen to only ONE vehicle.  On my Bullhead and B4-Maxx, the antenna from the receiver is just run along the inside of the chassis.  Same for my pest of a Rising Storm..  but still I went and re-routed the antenna wire to now stick upward through a plastic antenna tube.  Will test again and see.  

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2 hours ago, Killajb said:

I'm not superstitious at all.  Surely there is a reason for the issues I am experiencing, and I'll sort them out slowly but surely.  Still, it's a wonder to have them all happen to only ONE vehicle.  On my Bullhead and B4-Maxx, the antenna from the receiver is just run along the inside of the chassis.  Same for my pest of a Rising Storm..  but still I went and re-routed the antenna wire to now stick upward through a plastic antenna tube.  Will test again and see.  

What servo do you have, and is the steering moving freely?  It could be drawing too much current and causing a brown-out.

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Interesting point Mad Ax.  I also switched to the DSS 25kg servo..  steering movement is free and endpoints were set properly to avoid mechanical bind.  I am using one on my Bullhead as well, and an even fancier (probably higher current draw) servo on my B4-Maxx.  

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I currently have 1 kit a TT02D and its a pest. The very lightly used TBLE02S decides to invite gremlins forcing me to buy a HW1060 ESC. I install the aluminum hop up shocks and the stupid machine threads made from the stock ball mounts and the corresponding screws from the hop ups decide that they just barely strip the threads in the plastic shock mounting pieces. I can't even drill through the lower arms or risk compromising the integrity of the lower arms and face that option each time I might have to remove and reinstall the shocks. The thread pitch didnt even change from the 2 mounting systems of the 2 sets of shocks... it's a max of 1mm that doesn't hold well out of a max 5mm of bite.

I have a 2wd slash that is waiting restocking and delivery and I'm planning to order a thunder dragon. I will see if the title of pest will migrate in the future.

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It was my beetle - it’s running brushless and 3s and it was throwing shafts all over the field and I would spend ages looking for them or buying new ones :(

ive now fitted the XeoStar gearbox brace and painted the shafts neon orange and added suspension straps

sorted 

JJ

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7 hours ago, Problemchild said:

It was my beetle - it’s running brushless and 3s and it was throwing shafts all over the field and I would spend ages looking for them or buying new ones :(

ive now fitted the XeoStar gearbox brace and painted the shafts neon orange and added suspension straps

sorted 

JJ

LOL  you blinged out the problem parts? Painting problem parts distinct colors is something I do also even if I just use a different color tape to make them stand out.thats a smart move to save time when tooth g are in grass for lost parts.

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For me it's my Zahhak. It was on sale for like $120 so I got one.  I had no interest in it nor that chassis but it was cheap and I wanted to build something.  So I ran it once, it was crappy in the grass due to tires, and it's been on the shelf since.  It's a pest because I can't decide whether to sell it or not.  Not looking to turn a profit, just clear up some shelf space.  But....I've never sold a kit so I am anxious about that.

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9 hours ago, A-Baum said:

For me it's my Zahhak. It was on sale for like $120 so I got one.  I had no interest in it nor that chassis but it was cheap and I wanted to build something.  So I ran it once, it was crappy in the grass due to tires, and it's been on the shelf since.  It's a pest because I can't decide whether to sell it or not.  Not looking to turn a profit, just clear up some shelf space.  But....I've never sold a kit so I am anxious about that.

Aw the zahhak is stunning and such a great built and a good looking beast - future classic IMHO 

stick it back in the box and in the loft

JJ

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