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mtbkym01

XV01 steering link hitting chassis

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Hey folks, just finished a XV01 that I’ve build long damper Spec, with hop up GF01 shocks, and I’m experiencing a bit of chassis foul.

The steering rods are hitting the chassis (only on full droop) as can be seen here in this pic

50941890271_e0b59421c2_k.jpg

Anyone else experience this? If so, what did you do to rectify it?

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I did some reading on it and the front arms have holes for droop screws for us to solve the issue beside dremeling the chassis a couple of mm

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So as @KalEl63 said, we’ve used droop screws to solve the issue, both the front and rear arms have threaded holes in them so I grabbed some 10mm M3 grub screws and have rectified the issue. What I found interesting is there is no mention of it as an tuning option in the manual at all. Wondering if a couple of the XV experts @Big Jon or @Juls1 have had this issue before?

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I grinded pretty much everything and anything that fouled including the suspension mounts, and the screws going through them, cut the droop screw mounts off altogether, grinded the chassis away dramatically. 
 

This is why I’ve always said if you go the long damper route then there is a lot of modding/grinding required if you want to access the maximum travel available when fitting the gf01 dampers. (And why the stock car is the best option for 90% of people) 
 

of course you can put spacers in the dampers to shorten them if you don’t want the extra downtravel. It’s worth remembering the gf01 damper has about 25% more stroke than the stock CVA mini included in the long damper kit, so adding spacers just puts you back where Tamiya intended you to be. The droop screws are a quick and easy fix too. 

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The droop screws are the easiest way to prevent the steering from fouling.

I'm not entirely convinced that these cars need a whole lot of extra travel. The Long Damper cars in our group are no faster than the standard cars, and are much more difficult to get handling properly. They also suffer from traction rolls and snap oversteer, even with stiff swaybars, which make them darty through the rough. Unfortunately, all of our cars are setup and spec'ed so differently that a direct A to B comparison is impossible. I can't afford to build a Long Damper version of my car, or I'd do the testing myself. I was, however, able to solve some handling issues on my MST XXX-Rally by reducing down travel significantly and lowering the ride height to 15mm. Due to the wide variety of surfaces on a single course, everything is necessarily a compromise, so my "fast setup" might be too aggressive or a sloppy pig to someone else. One of the guys was usually faster than me with a nearly stock 4Tec 2.0 (long shocks, a little grinding on a VXL model, good electronics), and I could barely get the car around the course because it was so aggressive.

We're starting a '21 rally season in March after talking a COVID hiatus in '20, so we've all been doing our R&D again. Hopefully, we'll stumble across something fast!

BTW, one of our consistent top 5 guys was driving a completely stock XV-01 Subaru with a silvercan, 1060, and Savox 1251. The only "modification" was a High Torque servo saver. Stock oil, manual setup. Yes, he's a very skilled driver, and yes, he was faster with my car.

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The only reason to go longer travel than the stock is if you want that scale max droop look over jumps or your driving on very very rough surfaces. I cannot imagine any racing scenario where further increasing the travel is any advantage. 
 

I keep saying the stock xv01 is the best option, it just works from day one. you can even fit the longer CVA mini shocks on the stock towers with the right ends if you want a tiny bit more travel. 

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