burakol 462 Posted February 20, 2021 Ideas are appreciated. Planning on building my Dynahead soon. So far I have purchased all the 70+ bearings and a 20kg servo and a HW1080 crawler esc. My plan is to make this as a light duty crawler/trail truck. Motor wise, I'll try the stock silver can and/or a 16t old kyosho endoplasma and just trim down the speed... or eventually buy a higher turn motor to balance speed and torque. In terms of changing to oil damper, what alternative do I have? I see some folks use the option CC01 set of springs but I dont think I'd like to buy 3 sets... As for the wheel/tires, it's probably something i need to experiment with but so far, I am planning on using a CR01 beadlock wheels and fit in a 1.9 size tire. in it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taffer 948 Posted February 21, 2021 For shocks I bought 2 packs of 53619, then you can use the kit springs or buy TRF white hopup set... Don't forget to also get ball connectors, manual gives part number for hex head ball connectors for centre shocks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted February 21, 2021 Is it necessary to get an alloy steering arm and servo guard? 7 hours ago, taffer said: For shocks I bought 2 packs of 53619, then you can use the kit springs or buy TRF white hopup set... Don't forget to also get ball connectors, manual gives part number for hex head ball connectors for centre shocks If I'm not mistaken, the part number is for a mini cva shocks... how much travel do you get out of it? I was hoping I can get something with more travel? Is the kit spring soft enough, or better find a softer rate? For the ball connectors, will that be only used in the center, not front/rear? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taffer 948 Posted February 21, 2021 These are the correct length (front buggy length typically), more than enough travel... Kit springs are medium stiffness, TRF hopup white springs give more flexibility...(part no in my showroom). The hex ones are required for the middle shocks, upper connection because there is no room for the traditional tool type... Again my showroom has it all explained The only must have hopups are steel pinion, ball bearings and oil shocks really 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted February 21, 2021 @taffer thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Busdriver 6209 Posted February 22, 2021 I did bearings, steel pinion & switchable 2w/4ws on mine. Left the kit springs and pogos. Wheels on mine are CC01 Unimog wheels with 110mm Austar tyres. It’s a great trail truck and climbs some amazing gradient. Mine is a little top heavy as I custom built a rear bed from wood and the cab is a Loops Unimog which is very heavy duty. With a silver can the speed is perfect 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted February 24, 2021 looking at an aftermarket oil damper... will a 70mm size fit just right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taffer 948 Posted February 24, 2021 The 53619 mini CVA have a built range between 55-70mm as far as I know To get 70mm length you would use the long bottom connector which is slightly too long on the dynahead imo. The short connector is better suited. So an aftermarket 70mm should work but I wouldn't recommend it. Why? Because the drop is too much forcing the arm down, just doesn't work as well... Having a longer shock also allows the drive shaft to rub slightly on the drive cup at the front...not good 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted February 24, 2021 Ok. I guess the sweet spot should be between 60-65mm then... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
isomer1 175 Posted February 25, 2021 With the portals can you do 4WS with the larger lunchbox style tires found on the konghead etc.? I was worried the rears might end up too close and rub together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7881 Posted February 25, 2021 10 hours ago, burakol said: Ok. I guess the sweet spot should be between 60-65mm then... The mini cva have the same stroke at 64mm as 70mm as its just the eyelet on the end that makes the difference. That would be my suggested starting point. They are great shocks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted February 25, 2021 11 hours ago, isomer1 said: With the portals can you do 4WS with the larger lunchbox style tires found on the konghead etc.? I was worried the rears might end up too close and rub together. i believe they will rub at full turn, but if you have an independent channel for your rear steer, you can always adjust the end point limits... I havent tried it yet, but I do have a spare chevron tires that I might try... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taffer 948 Posted February 25, 2021 The rear steer isn't as full on as the front anyway Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taffer 948 Posted February 25, 2021 18 hours ago, burakol said: Ok. I guess the sweet spot should be between 60-65mm then... Short ends and short limiters on outside to avoid body touching on full compression 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted February 26, 2021 Looking at these... https://www.yeahracing.com/shock-gear-60mm-damper-set-for-1-10-rc-off-road-car-tamiya-gf01-wr02-kyosho-beetle-dsg-0060gm-00066135 between this and the mini cva, these are more budget friendly to me, plus it comes with different sets of springs... just not sure if the length/stroke once installed.. it says for off road use so Im assuming it will work... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
isomer1 175 Posted March 6, 2021 FWIW there is a post back in December from @OldSchoolRC1 that addresses portals w/ the bigger WW2/KongHead style tires. They scrub with 4ws https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/96765-a-prime-dynahead/&do=findComment&comment=836696 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites