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Auto shop rattle cans - removal

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Does anyone know the best way to remove  this type of paint from hard bodies? is it best just to gently sand it off so as to not damage the body itself? As far as I know from reading the tins it`s just a straightforward acrylic paint.

Did the Volvo over christmas, rushed it so the paint job isnt the best and did it in what I thought would be a good colour scheme, Land Rover Epsom green metallic But it just looks too dark and dismal and the kit itself hasnt much in the way decals to break it up a bit so was thinking of a strip and respray a different way. Perhaps a Bright Silver over Purple arches and skirts

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Having "melted" a Tamiya hard body which is normally a "styrene" material ,I now always test first. It varies on the type of paint used and the car aerosols do vary. I start with oven cleaner. The ones that I found strip chrome plating from styrene work well.

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first off i like the colour the colour would pop if you used a 2k clear coat on that 

and second just treat it as you would a 1.1 car if that was being painted ...just sand it until smooth then shoot the new colour you want to use 

or what this video around the 3.10 you will see what he uses to remove the paint he used 

 

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29 minutes ago, topforcein said:

first off i like the colour the colour would pop if you used a 2k clear coat on that 

and second just treat it as you would a 1.1 car if that was being painted ...just sand it until smooth then shoot the new colour you want to use 

or what this video around the 3.10 you will see what he uses to remove the paint he used 

 

You know something I never think of looking on youtube for "how to" type of stuff. Even after all this time. Cheers though I`ll have a look at that.

And thanks, I have used the same colour on other stuff and liked it, as well as when it was on my old 1.1 freelander

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5 hours ago, topforcein said:

and second just treat it as you would a 1.1 car if that was being painted ...just sand it until smooth then shoot the new colour you want to use 

This works on real cars because the details are also 1:1. On a model, the details (like panel lines) are reduced in size, but the paint is the same thickness, so going over the top of old paint starts to hide details (and sanding it risks removing raised details). Removing the old paint using some kind of stripper is the only way to ensure this doesn't happen. 

This is true at least for the 1/24th models I've built. Not sure about the bigger scale models like this truck.

1/24th models are also made me polystyrene and what always worked for me was brake fluid. I used to submerge the whole body in a tub of it, but for your truck you'd need a lot to do that. Paint came right off, though.

 

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I’d also like the answer to this question. I have some yellow front Falcon rims that are spray bombed. I’d like to get the paint off without wrecking the plastic 

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I to like the green, and feel adding silver, maybe a bold section through the middle, or along the top and bottom?

A more classic paint job would be to add gold & red if you wanted.

 

If you want to strip it off though, Brake Fluid will get the bulk off fairly quickly, but is messy. Give it a light rub with sand paper first to break the skin, apply the Brake Fluid let sit for a little while,  then scrub it a bit with a toothbrush. The sludge can be wiped off with a cloth (I found a micro fibre to work well) easily with a spray of Brake Cleaner. 

A newer favourite to the old Brake Fluid is Isopropyl Alcohol (at least 90% stuff) I’ve used some 99.8% in a pump bottle before. Available at Pharmacies, DIY shop etc.It does evaporate very quick so you need to either let it soak for 10 mins or so in a container, or for big stuff like a Truck Cab spray it on and cover it with Cling Wrap. Scrub & wipe off. Using Isopropyl Alcohol with wet & dry sand paper is good too. Old hard paint can be a bit stubborn.

Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner apparently works too but I haven’t tried it myself. 

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